GARDENER'S  INSTRUCTOR,! 

\£3v  f 

GARDEN   AND    HERB    SEED, 

WITS 

PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS  UNDER    EACH    HEAD 

FOR    TH2    CULTIVATION    OF 

CULINARY  VEGETABLES  AND  HERBS. 

WITH   A   CALENDAR, 

SHOWING  THE  WORK   NECESSARY  TO  BE  DONE  IN  A  KITCHEN  GARDEN 


EVERY  MONTH  THROUGHOUT  THE  SEASON. 
ALSO,     DIRECTIONS     FOR 

FORCING  OR  FORWARDING  VEGETABLES 

OUT   OF   THE   ORDINARY   SEASON. 

THE    V,'HOLB    ADAPTED    TO    THE    CLIM.-TE    OF    TTTB    UII.'TED    STATES 

A  NEW  AND  IMPROVED  EDITION. 


By  THOMAS  BR1DGEMAN, 


Gardener,  Seedsman,  aiul  Florist. 


NEW-YORK  : 

FOR  JUI.K  EV  THE  AUTHOR,  BROADWAY,  CORJ 

.T.  M.  Thorbur1!  <<c  <  '<>.,  15  Juhii-streot,  Alex.  Sin 

Broadway,  N.  V.  ;  Win.  Thorburn,  Brondwuy,  Alhuuj  .  <      F.I  •  lln- 

.i.  I,.  [,.  K.  Wnnvii.   \\  ulker  \    ' 

Lnn.lrci.h.    li.  .l.oit  Muist,  Phil'ulflplii'i  ;    (iil.s.n:  • 

R.  Sinclair,  Jr.,  &  Co.,   BaUimi»r<  ,    .1    P.  Cnllan,  Wnshirigto 

sindiiii.    It.  ('.  •  MIL  C!i:irlr-ton,   S.  '  Win. 

Dlnn,  M.  :1  liorh'irn.  St.   Lm,!<  :     i 

cinuali  ;    Chsii,  .ii;il)iis,  (>a.  ,    A.  <«.  .Muun,  L.uuin  '    other 

Seedsmen. — Also,  iiy  !.  --'neral. 


GIFT  OF 
G.    H.    Hovey 


C  DCPT 


THE 

KITCHEN  GARDENER'S  INSTRUCTOR, 

CONTAINING  A  CATALOGUE  OF 

GARDEN   AND    HERB    SEED, 

WITH 

PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS   UNDER    EACH    HEAD 

FOR    THE    CULTIVATION    OF 

CULINARY  VEGETABLES  AND  HERBS. 
WTTH  A  CALENDAR, 

SHOWING  THE  WORK  NECESSARY  TO  BE  DONE  IN  A  KITCHEN  GARDEN 
EVERY  MONTH   THROUGHOUT  THE  SEAScN. 

ALSO,     DIRECTIONS     FOR 

FORCING  OR  FORWARDING  VEGETABLES 

OUT  OF  THE  ORDINARY  SEASON. 

THS    WHCT.-M    ADAPTED    TO    THE    OLIMATS,'   Off    J\E*E    ttNllBD 


A  NEW  AKD  IMPROVED  EDIT 


BY  THOMAS   BR1DGEMAN, 

Gardener,  Seedsman,  and  Florist. 
NEW-YORK  : 

FOR    SALE  BY  THE  AUTHOR,  BROADWAY,  CORNER  OF  EIGHTEENTH  STREET, 


Landreth,  H.  A.  Dreer,  Robert  Buist,  Pbilndelphin  :  Gibson  &  Ritchie,  i^wuriv,  r«.  „. ; 
R.  Sinclair,  Jr.,  &  Co.,  Baltimore;  .T.  P.  Cnllan,  Washington  City ;  Henry  Cook,  Alex- 
andria,  D.  C.  :  Frederick  Wittuenn,  Charleston,  S.  C.  ;  Mosely  &  Co..  Mobile;  Wm. 
Dinn,  New  Orleans  ;  las.  M.  Thorburn,  St.  Louis  ;  Ely  &  Campbell,  H.  Huxley,  Cin- 
cinnati;  Charles  A.  Peabody  Columbus,  Ga.  ;  A.  G.  Munn,  Louisville,  Ky. ;  and  other 
Seedsmen. — Also,  by  Booksellers  in  general. 


1847. 


Printed  by  A.  Hiinford.58  Nassau-street. 


~R  <7£T 


[Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  Eighteen  Hundro! 
and  Forty-seven  by  THOMAS  BRIDGEJMAN,  in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  Dis- 
trict Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Southern  District  of  New-Yorfc.) 


PREFACE. 

"THE  YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT"  having  been  ex- 
tended to  five  times  its  original  size,  by  the  introduction  of 
various  additional  subjects  connected  with  Horticulture,.  I 
have  been  induced  to  publish  that  part  which  relates  to  the 
cultivation  of  Culinary  Vegetables,  Pot  Herbs,  &c.,  in  a 
separate  form,  under  the  title  of  "  The  Kitchen  Gardener's 
Instructor."  This  has  been  done  with  a  view  to  enable  our 
respectable  seedsmen  to  afford  instruction,  at  a  trifling  ex- 
pense, to  those  of  their  customers  whose  attention  may  be 
directed  wholly  to  that  branch  of  Horticulture,  and  thei-eby 
prevent  themselves  being  blamed  by  those  who  may  not 
have  given  their  seed  a  fair  trial,  from  not  knowing  how  to 
dispose  of  it  in  the  ground. 

Having  had  twenty-four  years'  experience  as  a  gardener 
and  seedsman,  in  the  vicinity  of  New- York,  I  am  aware  of 
the  importance  of  correct  information  on  the  subject  of  gar- 
dening; and,  from  a  conviction  that  the  reputation  of  many 
honest  seedsmen  is  often  unjustly  attacked  in  consequence 
of  the  failure  of  seed,  when  the  fault  lies  not  with  them,  but 
with  the  gardener,  I  have  endeavoured,  in  my  humble  way, 
to  render  myself  useful  both  to  the  seedsman  and  gardener, 
by  giving  brief  directions  for  the  management  of  a  Kitchen 
Garden,  in  such  a  way  as  is  calculated  to  insure  success. 

But,  as  much  depends  on  minute  attention  to  points  appa- 
rently trifling,  I  would  remind  my  readers  that  the  products 
of  the  garden  are  natives  of  various  soils  and  climates,  and 
that  while  some  vegetables  can  only  be  raised  in  cool  and 
temperate  weather,  others  require  the  heat  of  the  summer 
to  bring  them  to  perfection.  This  consideration  should 
induce  gardeners  to  watch  the  seasons  as  they  pass,  and  also 

GGS579 


VI  PREFACE. 

to  plant  their  seed  at  suitable  depths  and  distances,  accord- 
ing to  their  nature  and  dimensions,  as  an  opportunity  of 
raising  some  of  the  luxuries  of  the  garden  beitrg  lost  for  tho 
season,  may  occasion  more  anxiety  and  trouble,  than  il 
would  cost  to  acquire  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  art  of  Gar- 
dening. 

It  is,  however,  of  the  utmost  importance  to  a  gardener 
that  he  obtain  such  seed  as  will  grow  freely,  and  produce 
vegetables  calculated  to  suit  the  market.  As  I  value  my 
reputation  above  all  things  upon  earth,  chanty  forbids  me  to 
believe  that  any  man  of  standing  would  wilfully  sell  bad  seed. 
It  is  true,  that  the  most  careful  may  at  times  be  deceived, 
especially  in  seasons  when  a  full  supply  of  fresh  seed  can- 
not be  obtained  from  their  regular  growers ;  but,  in  general,  our 
established  seedsman  may  be  supposed  to  know  the  true  cha- 
racter of  his  stock;  and  if  he  studies  his  interest,  he  will  not 
knowingly  sell  an  article  that  is  not  calculated  to  do  him 
credit.  It  must,  however,  be  admitted,  that  knowledge  is  as 
necessary  to  a  seedsman  as  to  a  gardener,  and  therefore  the 
above  remarks  cannot  apply  to  every  storekeeper  who  may 
sell  seed,  because  many,  being  mere  agents,  do  not  pretend 
to  know  one  kind  of  seed  from  another;  and  from  its  not 
being  a  primary  object  with  them,  it  cannot  be  expected 
that  they  will  take  the  same  interest  in  the  traffic  as  a  regu- 
lar seedsman,  and  therefore  such  agents  may  riot  consider 
their  reputation  at  stake. 

The  experience  of  old  and  skilful  gardeners  will  bear 
witness  to  the  fact,  that  failures  often  occur  even  with  good 
seed,  and  with  the  very  best  attention  on  the  part  of  the 
gardener.  It  often  happens  that  insects  so  infest  the  land, 
as  to  devour  the  seed  while  sprouting,  and  before  a  plant  is 
seen  above  ground.  Sometimes  a  serious  drought  succeed- 
ing a  heavy  rain  will  cause  seed  to  perish  through  incrusta- 
tion of  the  soil;  and  very  frequently  seed  will  fail  to  vegetate 
in  dry  soils  and  seasons,  for  want  of  pressure.  I  was  once 
called  upon  by  a  neighbour  to  examine  his  garden,  in  which 


PREFACE.  Vii 

he  had  sown  several  sorts  of  seed  a  month  previous,  which 
he  had  condemned  as  barren  and  unfruitful.  On  looking 
over  his  land,  I  perceived  a  horse  track  :  the  animal  had 
broken  -his  halter,  and  traversed  the  garden  in  different 
directions.  On  tracing  the  horse's  footsteps,  I  perceived 
plants  coming  up  thick  in  the  tracks,  which  convinced  me 
that  if  the  seed  had  been  planted  deeper,  or  the  ground 
rolled  at  the  time  of  depositing  the  seed  therein,  the  gardener 
would  have  had  no*  cause  to  complain  either  of  the  seedsman 
or  his  seed. 

The  above  instance  of  loss,  occasioned  by  want  of  attention 
to  points  apparently  of  trifling  importance,  not  being  a  soli- 
tary one,  I  would  urge  the  gardener  to  precision  and  dili- 
gence in  his  undertaking ;  and,  as  my  object  has  been  to 
impart  useful  knowledge  in  the  following  pages,  they  who 
are  in  pursuit  of  information  on  the  subject  of  gardening, 
are  invited  to  a  perusal  before  they  deposit  their  seed  in  the 
ground. 

As  in  all  the  former  editions  of  this  work,  it  was  my 
earnest  care  to  confine  my  attention  to  the  most  important 
practical  subjects,  I  may  be  allowed  here  to  remind  the 
reader,  that  every  article  in  the  book  contains  ample  direc- 
tions for  the  cultivation  of  whatever  it  has  reference  to  ;  but, 
as  the  inexperienced  are  apt  to  imbibe  very  erroneous  ideas 
on  some  points  of  culture,  I  have,  in  this  edition,  introduced 
various  notes,  many  of  which  are  designed  to  point  out  the 
evil  which  it  is  intended  to  remedy ; — for  instance,  a  novice 
in  gardening  undertakes  to  cultivate  a  piece  of  ground,  and 
having  been  informed  that  manure  is  a  very  important  arti- 
cle in  the  cultivation  of  his  vegetables,  procures,  perhaps, 
ten  times  as  much  as  is  necessary ;  this  he  applies  to  his 
beds  in  such  extravagant  quantities  as  to  prevent  the  seed 
from  germinating,  and  in  some  cases  it  renders  the  ground 
sterile,  until  time  and  exposure  to  the  atmosphere  reclaim 
it.  (See  noto  page  15.) 

Another  very  prevalent  error  is  evinced  by  persons  de 


Till  PREFACE. 

laying  to  sow  their  seed  until  a  period  when  they  ought  to 
be  preparing  to  gather  a  crop;  hence  it  frequently  happens 
that  such,  on  the  appearance  of  any  rare  vegetable  in  mar- 
ket, are  induced  to  visit  the  store  for  some  seed,  which,  al- 
though they  sow  it  out  of  the  ordinary  season,  they  expect 
to  gather  perfect  specimens  of  vegetables.  (See  notes  pages 
52  and  72.)  Others,  again,  are  so  inattentive  to  their  seed 
beds,  after  depositing  seed  therein,  that  they  neglect  all 
precautions  of  preserving  their  crops  from  the  attacks  of  in- 
sects, which  often  make  clean  work  before  they  are  disco- 
vered. (See  notes  in  pages  19,  55  and  104.)  As  such  cus- 
tomers are  generally  loudest  in  their  exclamations  agaiust 
seedsmen,  I  have  been  induced  to  discuss  the  most  impor- 
tant points  connected  with  the  subjects,  with  a  view  to  strike 
at  the  root  of  the  most  fatal  errors  attending  the  cultivation 
of  a  garden,  and  I  flatter  myself  that  my  labours  will  be  duly 
appreciated. 

As  it  is  not  intended  in  this  Preface  to  give  directions, 
but  merely  to  show  the  object  of  the  work,  I  would  here 
inform  the  reader,  that  the  general  remarks  for  the  manage- 
ment of  the  Kitchen  Garden,  pages  13  to  30,  explain  the 
method  of  destroying  insects;  of  drilling,  rolling,  planting, 
and  managing  the  various  soils;  together  with  some  useful 
tables  calculated  to  make  the  attentive  reader  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  ait  of  gardening. 

T.  BRIDGEMAN. 


CONTENTS. 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  A  KITCHEN 
GARDEN. 

a  Page. 

On  laying  out  the  ground,    - 

A  blank-book  recommended,  -  -  -  -  -  14 
Method  of  using  manure,  (note)  -  -15 
Observations  on  improving  various  soils — and  on  sowing 

seed  early,  -  16 
The  drilling  system  recommended,       -                             -17 

Remedies  for  the  destruction  of  insects,  (note,  19)         -  18 

On  the  most  proper  rotation  of  crops,  -  21 
A  table  showing  the  number  of  plants  that  may  be 

raised  on  s,n  acre  of  land,  at  given  distances,  which 

table  may  also  be  applied  to  other  objects,  23 

On  the  durability  of  the  germinative  properties  of  seed,  25 
A  table  or  classification  of  such  species  and  varieties  of 

seed  as  are  usually  cultivated  in  the  Kitchen  Garden,  26 

Explication  of  the  above  table,     -                                       -  27 

Adaptation  of  the  directions  in  this  book  to  all  climates,  30 


A  CATALOGUE  OF  CULINARY  VEGETABLES  ;  WITH  PRACTICAL 
DIRECTIONS  UNDER  EACH  HEAD. 

[The  Notes  are  chiefly  calculated  to  guard  against  error  in  cultivation.] 


Artichoke,  -  -  31 

Asparagus,  (note,  36)     -  34 

Beans,  (English  Dwarfs)  39 
Beans,  (Kidney  Dwarfs) 

(note)  -     -  41 

Beans,  (Pole  or  Running)  42 

Beets,  (note)  -  44 

Borecole  or  Kale,  -  46 

Brussels  Sprouts,  -  47 

Broccoli,  (note,  49)          -  48 


Cauliflower,  (note,  52)  -  51 

Cabbage,  (note,  55)  -  54 

Colewort  or  Collards,  -  57 

Cardoons,     -  58 

Carrot,  -  58 

Celery,  (note,  61)  -  -  60 

Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus,  63 

Cress,  -  -  64 

Cucumber,  (note)  -  65 

Chives,  or  Gives,  -  -  66 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Egg-plant,  (note,  67)      -     66 

Peas,    - 

Page. 

83 

Endive,         -                         68 

Potato, 

85 

Horse-radish,                   -     69 

Potato,  (Sweet,)    - 

86 

Indian  Corn,                          70 

Pumpkin, 

87 

Jerusalem  Artichoke,    -     70 

Radish,  (note) 

88 

Leek,  -                            -     71 

Rocambole, 

89 

Lettuce,  (note)       -         -72 

Rhubarb, 

90 

Melon,                               -     74 

Salsify, 

92 

Melon,  (Water)     -         -     75 

Scorzonera, 

93 

Mustard,       -                   -     76 

Sea-Kale, 

94 

Nasturtium,                     -     76 

Skirret, 

97 

Okra,    -                             -     77 

Shallot, 

97 

Onion,  (note,  78)    -         -     77 

Spinach,  or  Spinage,     - 

98 

Parsley,  (note,  80)           -     79 

Squash, 

100 

Parsnip,  (note)       -         -     81 

Tomato, 

101 

Pepper,                             -     82 
A  Catalogue  of  Aromatic,  Pol 

Turnip,  (note,  104) 
,,  and  Sweet  Herbs, 

102 
106 

Annual,  Biennial,  and  Perennial  Plants  defined,  - 

106 

Plants  cultivated  for  Medicinal  purposes,     - 

107 

Directions  for  the  cultivation  and  preservation  of  Herbs 

in  general, 

108 

Illustrations  of  drills,  to  be  used  for  various  kinds  of  seed, 

109 

Representation  of  a  Hot-bed  with  four  sashes, 

112 

Observations  on  Forcing  Vegetables,    - 

114 

Forcing  Asparagus  in  Hot-beds, 

117 

Forwarding  Broad  Beans,  or  English  Dwarfs, 

119 

Forcing  Kidney  Beans, 

119 

Forwarding  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower, 

120 

Forcing  Cucumbers  at  an  early  season, 

121 

Forwarding  Cucumbers  in  April  and  May,  - 

124 

Forwarding  Lettuce  for  use  in  the  winter,  - 

124 

Forcing  Mushrooms  at  all  seasons, 

125 

Forwarding  Melons  on  ridges  under  hand-glasses, 

131 

Forcing  Peas  in  Hot-beds, 

132 

Forcing  Potatoes  in  Hot-beds, 

133 

Forwarding  Radishes  and  other  vegetables, 

134 

Forwarding  RhuBarb  for  use  through  the  winter, 

135 

Forwarding  Salad,  Herbs,  Small  Plants,  &c., 

136 

Forwarding  Tomatoes, 

136 

Forcing  various  kinds  of  vegetables,    - 

137 

Method  of  cultivating  the  Hop,  - 

139 

Observations  on  the  weather,  as  influenced  by  changes 

of  the  moon,                   -                             - 

144 

CONTENTS.  XL 


A  table  for  prognosticating  the  weather  through  all  the 

lunations  of  the  year,  -  -  146 

Introduction  to  the  Monthly  Calendar,  with  directions 

how  to  apply  it  to  different  climates,  -  -  147 

.JANUARY.  —  Suggestions  for  the  improvement  of  time  in 
reference  to  gardening  —  By  collecting  information 
on  the  subject  —  By  procuring  fencing  materials  — 
Manure  and  ingredients  for  the  destruction  of  insects. 

—  Drilling   machines  and    garden    implements  in 
general,  preparatory  for  the  work  to  be  performed 

as  the  season  progresses,      -  -148 

FEBRUARY.  —  Directions  for  providing  hot-bed  frames, 
forcing  pits,  and  materials  to  be  used  for  forcing  and 
forwarding  vegetables,  towards  the  end  of  the  month 

—  Also,  for  sowing  seed,        -  -   149 
MARCH.  —  Recommendations  on  various  subjects  —  As  at- 

tending to  the  hot-beds  —  regulating  their  tempera- 
ture —  sowing  such  kinds  of  seed  as  are  adapted 
to  the  season  —  Also,  in  manuring  and  digging  the 
soil  generally,  preparatory  to  sowing  and  planting 
it  next  month,  -  -  151 

APRIL.  —  The  importance  of  this  month  to  an  industrious 
gardener  exemplified  —  who  is  recommended  to  sow 
all  the  various  kinds  of  seed  enumerated  in  the 
Calendar  —  to  attend  to  the  spring  dressing  of  his 
beds  of  Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Rhubarb,  Sea-Kale, 
&c.  —  and  to  the  Transplanting  of  various  kinds  of 
plants  in  due  season,  -  -  1,52 

MAY.  —  Directions  for  destroying  insects  —  and  weeds  — 
to  prevent  their  seeding  in  the  ground  —  Also,  for 
sowing  the  various  kinds  of  seed  intended  for 
summer  crops;  including  the  Bene-plant,  with  a 
view  to  have  it  for  use  in  July.  —  This  is  also  a 
good  season  to  spawn  Mushroom  beds,  and  to  form 
new  ones,  &c.,  -  -  154 

JUNE.  —  The  principal  sowing  season  being  nearly  over, 
the  gardener  is  reminded  of  the  necessity  of  ascer-  v 
taining  the  success  of  former  plantings,  with  a  view 
to  make  up  deficiencies  before  the  month  is  too  far 
advanced  —  Also,  to  hoe  or  plough  between  early 
vegetables  in  general,  in  order  to  mature  them  — 
and  to  destroy  weeds  —  Directions  for  the  manage- 
ment of  Artichokes,  Cauliflower,  Herbs,  Hop 
Vines,  &c..  -  ....  155 


XII.  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

JULY. — Directions  for  transplanting  of  Cabbage,  Car- 
doons,  Celery,  Endive,  Leeks,  Pepper  Plants,  &c., 
— Also,  for  the  gathering  and  preserving  of  Aro- 
matic, Pot,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  as  they  come  into 
blossom — and  for  the  cultivation  of  various  sorts 
of  vegetables  described  in  the  Calendar,  -  -  157 

AUGUST. — The  planting  season  being  nearly  over,  the 
gardener  is  recommended  to  manure,  dig,  and 
plough  vacant  ground  for  autumn  crops — to  attend 
to  Artichokes,  Hops,  Mushrooms,  Onions,  Shallots, 
Turnips,  &c.,  as  directed,  -  -  158 

SEPTEMBER. — The  business  of  this  month  consists  in 
finishing  the  sowing  of  seed  of  the  season — in  ma- 
turing various  kinds  of  vegetables,  by  hoeing  and 
earthing — and  in  the  gathering  of  Herbs,  Hops, 
&c.,  as  they  arrive  at  maturity,  -  -  159 

OCTOBER. — Directions  for  preserving  various  plants  and 
vegetables — by  planting  Parsley,  Lettuce,  Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower,  &c.,  in  frames — by  providing  pits 
to  contain  Beets,  Potatoes,  &c., — and  by  laying 
away  Winter  Squashes,  Pumpkins,  and  other  vege- 
tables designated,  for  use  through  the  winter,  -  161 

NOVEMBER. — The  best  methods  described,  of  stowing 
away  for  the  winter;  Broccoli, -Cauliflower,  Cab- 
bage, Cardoons,  Carrots,  Celery,  Horse-radish, 
Leeks,  Turnips,  and  such  other  vegetables  as  need 
protection — Also,  directions  for  the  winter  dressing 
of  the  beds  of  Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Rhubarb, 
and  Sea-Kale,  -  -  162 

DECEMBER. — Hints  on  various  subjects  connected  with 
the  preservation  of  plants,  vegetables,  and  imple- 
ments— and  for  collecting  suitable  manures,  com- 
post, &c.,  for  nse  next  spring — Also,  suggestions 
for  ploughing  or  trenching  particular  kinds  of  soil, 
in  order  that  it  may  be  benefited  by  winter  frost,  163 


GENERAL   REMARKS 

ON     THE     %;j 

MANAGEMENT  OF  A  i 


BEFORE  commencing  the  Catalogue,  it  may  be  necessary 
to  direct  the  reader's  attention  to  some  important  matters, 
essential  to  the  good  management  of  a  Kitchen  Garden. 

The  mode  of  laying  out  the  giound  is  a  matter  of  taste, 
and  may  be  left  to  the  gardener  himself,  the  form  being  a 
thing  of  trifling  importance  in  the  production  of  useful  vege- 
tables; and  it  matters  not  whether  the  ground  be  laid  out  in 
oeds  of  four  or  ten  feet  wide,  provided  it  be  well  worked, 
and  the  garden  kept  neat  arid  free  from  weeds. 

Those  who  have  not  a  garden  already  formed,  should, 
nowever,  fix  on  a  level  spot  where  the  soil  is  deep  ;  but  as 
we  have  not  always  a  choice,  I  would  recommend  the  reader 
to  that  which  is  within  his  reach,  and  ought  to  be  the  object 
of  every  man,  namely,  to  make  the  most  of  what  he  has. 

To  this  end,  he  may  form  a  border  round  the  whole  gar- 
den, from  five  to  ten  feet  wide,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
piece  of  land ;  next  to  this  border,  a  walk  may  be  made  from 
three  to  six  feet  wide ;  the  centre  part  of  the  garden  may  be 
divided  into  squares,  on  the  sides  of  which  a  border  may  be 
laid  out  three  or  four  feet  wide,  in  which  the  various  kinds 
of  horbs  may  be  raised,  and  also  Gooseberries,  Currants, 
Raspberries,  Strawberries,  &c.  The  centre  beds  may  be 
planted  with  all  the  various  kinds  of  vegetables.  The  outside 
oorders,  facing  the  east,  south,  and  west,  will  be  useful  for 
raising  the  earliest  fruits  and  vegetables ;  and  the  north  bor- 
der, being  shady  and  cool,  will  serve  for  raising  and  pricking 

2 


14  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

out  such  young  plants,  herbs,  and  cuttings,  as  require  to  be 
screened  from  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  farther,  that  though  shady 
situations  are  useful  for  the  purpose  of  raising  Celery,  Cab- 
bage, and  other  small  plants,  slips,  &c.,  in  the  summer  season, 
all  standard  trees  sHois.ld  be  excluded  from  a  Kitchen  Garden 
for  the  folio  whig  reasons  :  First,  their  roots  spread  so  widely, 
and  imbibe  bo  nuich « rnoisrare  from  the  ground,  that  little  is 
left  for  the  nourishment  of  any  plant  within  the  range  of 
their  influence ;  secondly,  when  in  full  leaf,  they  shade  a 
large  space,  and  obstruct  the  free  circulation  of  the  air,  so 
essential  to  the  well-being  of  all  plants ;  and,  thirdly,  the 
droppings  from  trees  are  particularly  injurious  to  whatever 
vegetation  they  fall  upon. 

Previous  to  entering  on  the  work  of  a  garden,  the  gar- 
dener should  lay  down  rules  for  his  future  government.  In 
order  to  this,  he  should  provide  himself  with  a  blank  book, 
in  which  he  should  first  lay  out  a  plan  of  his  garden,  allot- 
ting a  place  for  all  the  different  kinds  of  vegetables  he  intends 
to  cultivate.  As  he  proceeds  in  the  business  of  planting  his 
grounds,  if  he  should  keep  an  account  of  every  thing  he  does 
relative  to  his  garden,  he  would  soon  obtain  some  knowledge 
of  the  art.  This  the  writer  has  done  for  more  than  twenty 
years,  and  he  flatters  himself  that  a  publication  of  the  results 
of  his  practice  will  be  interesting  and  useful  to  his  readers. 

If  gardeners  would  accustom  themselves  to  record  the 
dates  and  particulars  of  their  transactions  relative  to  tillage, 
planting,  &c.,  they  would  always  know  when  to  expect  their 
seed  to  come  up,  and  how  to  regulate  their  crops  for  suc- 
cession ;  and,  when  it  is  considered  that  plants  of  the  Bras- 
sica,  or  Cabbage  tribe,  are  apt  to  get  infected  at  the  roots,  if 
too  frequently  planted  in  the  same  ground,  and  that  a  rota- 
tion of  crops  in  general  is  beneficial,  it  will  appear  evident 
that  a  complete  register  of  every  thing  relative  to  culture  is 
essential  to  the  well-being  of  a  garden. 

One  important  point  to  be  attended  to,  is  to  have  a  supply 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  15 

of  good  old  manure,  and  other  composts,  ready  to  incorpo- 
rate with  the  earth ;  and  also  a  portion  of  ashes,  soot,  tobacco 
dust,  and  lime,  for  the  purpose  of  sowing  over  seed  beds  in 
dry  weather,  to  destroy  insects,  which  sometimes  cut  off 
young  plants  as  fast  as  they  come  up. 

If  the  ground  cannot  be  all  manured  every  year,  as  it 
should  be,  it  is  of  primary  importance  that  those  vegetables 
be  provided  for  which  most  need  manure.  A  perusal  of  the 
Catalogue  will  enable  the  young  gardener  to  judge  of  the 
kinds  of  garden  products  which  require  it  most.  Lest  I 
should  not  have  been  explicit  enough  in  this  particular,  I 
would  inform  him  that  good  rich  manure  is  indispensably  ne- 
cessary for  the  production  of  Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cabbage, 
Lettuce,  Spinage,  Onions,  Radishes,  and  Salads  in  general. 

In  the  event  of  a  scanty  supply  of  manure,  those  kinds  of 
vegetables  which  are  raised  in  hills  or  drills,  may  be  pro- 
vided for  by  disposing  of  the  manure  immediately  under  the 
seed  or  plants.* 

The  next  important  matter  is  to  have  the  ground  in  suita- 
ble condition  to  receive  the  seed.  I  wish  it  to  be  understood 


*  As  some  cultivators,  by  their  method  of  using  manure,  show  that  they 
have  very  erroneous  ideas  as  to  its  real  object  or  utility,  I  would  remind 
such,  that  manure  should  be  applied  with  a  view  to  renovate  and  strengthen 
the  natural  soil,  and  not  as  a  receptacle  for  seed.  In  order  that  manure 
may  have  a  salutary  effect,  it  should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
earth,  by  the  operation  of  digging  or  ploughing.  When  it  is  used  in  hills 
or  on  a  given  spot,  it  should  be  well  pulverized  and  mixed  with  the  earth 
so  as  to  form  a  compost.  These  remarks  apply  especially  to  strong  ani- 
mal manures,  the  excrements  of  fowls,  as  also  to  soaper's,  tanner's,  and 
glue  manufacturer's  manure,  rags,  &c.  Lime,  ashes,  bone  dust,  poudrette, 
urate,  salt,  sulphur,  gypsum,  nitrate  of  potash,  and  other  portable  manures, 
may  be  sown  over  the  land  previous  to  harrowing  or  raking  it,  or  such 
manures  may  be  formed  into  a  compost  when  used  in  hills  or  drills.  They 
should  in  every  case  be  used  with  caution,  as  an  indiscreet  use  of  them 
will  destroy  the  seed  or  plants,  and  thus  defeat  the  cultivator's  object. 
Many  gardeners  can  corroborate  these  facts,  from  having  used  strong  com- 
post as  a  mould  for  their  hot-beds,  thereby  poisoning  the  germs  of  the  seed, 
and  causing  the  plants  to  die  off  prematurely ;  and  it  is  notorious  that  a 
great  proportion  of  failing  crops  is  occasioned  by  an  injudicious  mode  of 
using  manure 


16  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

that  I  am  an  advocate  for  early  sowing  and  planting,  even  at 
the  risk  of  losing  a  little  seed,  provided  the  ground  be  fit  to 
receive  it.  A  light,  sandy  soil  will  be  benefited  if  worked 
when  moist,  as  such  treatment  will  have  a  tendency  to  make 
it  more  compact ;  on  the  contrary,  if  a  clayey  soil  be  worked 
when  too  wet,  it  kneads  like  dough,  and  never  fails  to  bind 
when  drought  follows ;  and  this  not  only  prevents  the  seed 
from  rising,  but  injures  the  plants  materially  in  their  subse- 
quent growth,  by  its  becoming  impervious  to  moderate  rains, 
dews,  air,  and  the  influence  of  the  sun,  all  of  which  are 
necessary  to  the  promotion  of  vegetation. 

Some  gardeners,  as  well  as  some  writers,  recommend 
certain  fixed  days  for  sowing  and  planting  particular  kinds 
of  seed;  I  think  it  necessary  to  guard  my  readers  against  being 
misled.  The  failure  of  crops  may  be  often  attributed  to  the 
observance  of  certain  days  for  sowing.  If  some  kinds  of  seed 
be  sown  when  the  ground  is  wet  and  cold,  they  will  become 
chilled  in  the  ground,  and  seldom  vegetate.  If  they  be  sown 
in  very  dry  weather,  the  germinative  parts  of  the  seed  may 
become  injured  by  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  or  the  young 
plants  may  get  devoured  by  insects  as  fast  as  they  come  up. 
To  obviate  these  difficulties,  I  have  generally  allowed  a  week 
or  ten  days  for  sowing  the  seed,  intending  the  medium  as  the 
proper  time  for  the  vicinity  of  New- York.  With  this  clearly 
borne  in  mind,  the  reader  who  observes  the  difference  in  the 
degrees  of  heat  and  cold  in  the  different  parts  of  the  country, 
will  know  how  to  apply  these  instructions  accordingly. 

Much  depends  on  the  manures  used  on  particular  kinda 
of  soil.  The  great  art  of  improving  sandy  and  clayey  soils, 
consists  in  giving  the  former  such  dressings  of  clay,  cow 
dung,  and  other  kinds  of  manure,  as  will  have  a  tendency  to 
bind  and  make  them  more  compact,  and  consequently,  more 
retentive  of  moisture ;  and  to  the  latter,  coats  of  horse  dung, 
ashes,  sand,  and  such  other  composts  as  may  tend  to  sepa- 
rate the  particles  arid  open  the  pores  of  the  clay,  so  as  to 
cause  it  to  approach  as  nearly  as  possible  to  a  loam. 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 


17 


The  nearer  the  ground  approaches  to  a  sandy  soil,  the  less 
retentive  will  it  be  of  moisture ;  the  more  to  a  clayey,  the 
longer  will  it  retain  it ;  and  the  finer  the  particles  of  which 
the  clay  is  composed,  the  more  tenacious  will  it  be  of  water, 
and,  consequently,  the  longer  in  drying,  and  the  harder  when 
dry  ;  but  earth  of  a  consistence  that  will  hold  water  the  long- 
est, without  becoming  hard  when  dry, -is,  of  all  others,  the  best 
adapted  for  raising  the  generality  of  plants  in  the  greatest 
perfection.  This  last  described  soil  is  called  loam,  and  is  a 
medium  earth,  between  the  extremes  of  clay  and  sand. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  drills  to  be  made  at 
certain  depths  for  the  different  kinds  of  seed ;  and  when  I 
have  stated  that  the  drills  should  be  two  inches  deep,  it  is 
intended  that  the  seed  should  be  covered  only  one  inch, 
which  it  will  be  when  planted  in  these  drills,  and  covered ; 
and  so  in  proportion  for  any  other  depth  required.  This 
may  serve  as  a  guide  to  the  young  gardener,  but  circum- 
stances alter  cases ;  if,  for  instance,  some  particular  crops 
should  fail,  this  would  render  it  necessary,  if  the  season  be 
far  advanced,  to  risk  a  farther  planting  of  seed,  even  if  the 
weather  be  hot  and  the  ground  dry.  If  this  be  planted  a 
little  deeper,  it  may  escape  the  violent  heat  of  the  sun,  and 
in  the  event  of  a  shower,  the  ground  would  become  suffi- 
ciently moist  to  bring  it  up  ;  whereas  it  sometimes  happens 
that  seed  sown  after  a  shower  does  not  vegetate  until  after  the 
season  is  too  far  advanced  to  bring  the  crop  to  perfection. 

The  work  of  drilling  by  thgse  who  have  no  machine,  may 
be  performed  in  various  ways ;  in  some  cases  a  plough  is 
used,  in  others  a  small  hoe,  or  a  dibble  drawn  along  the  edge 
of  a  board  or  line  ;  it  is  of  little  consequence  which  way  the 
work  is  done,  if  it  be  well  done.  While  I  leave  the  gardener 
to  make  his  own  choice  of  tools,  I  would  suggest  that  he  be 
provided  with  two  or  three  drilling  machines ;  these,  every 
handy  man  can  make  for  himself;  they  should  be  in  the 
form  of  a  garden  rake,  with  a  stout,  heavy  back,  and  five 
teeth,  about  two  inches  broad,  and  tapered  so  as  to  enter  the 

2* 


18  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

ground,  and  leave  drills  two  inches  deep.  If  one  be  made 
with  the  teeth  eight  inches  apart,  another  twelve,  and  another 
fourteen,  they  will  be  useful  in  making  drills  for  the  various 
kinds  of  seed ;  and  drills  thus  made  serve  instead  of  strain- 
ing a  line  when  transplanting  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Leek  plants, 
&c. ;  the  line  being  stretched  at  one  edge  of  the  bed,  and 
the  drilling  machine  drawn  straight  by  the  line,  makes  five 
drills  at  once.  If  they  are  straight,  they  may  be  kept  so,  by 
keeping  one  drill  open  for  the  outside  tooth  to  work  in,  until 
the  ground  be  all  drilled. 

Gardeners  practice  different  methods  of  covering  up  seed  ; 
some  do  it  with  a  hoe,  others  with  a  rake  or  harrow ;  some 
draw  a  portion  of  the  earth  to  the  side  of  the  bed,  and  after 
sowing  the  seed,  return  it  regularly  over  the  bed;  in  some 
particular  cases  a  sieve  is  used,  in  others  a  roller.  Rolling 
or  treading  in  seed  is  necessary  in  dry  seasons,  but  it  should 
never  be  done  when  the  ground  is  wet. 

There  is  nothing  that  protects  young  crops  of  Turnips, 
Cabbage,  and  other  small  plants,  from  the  depredations  of  the 
fly,  so  well  as  rolling ;  for  when  the  surface  is  rendered  com- 
pletely smooth,  these  insects  are  deprived  of  the  harboui 
they  would  otherwise  have  under  the  clods  and  small  lumps 
of  earth.  This  method  will  be  found  more  effectual  than 
soaking  the  seed  in  any  preparation,  or  dusting  the  plants 
with  any  composition  whatever ;  but  as  the  roller  must  only 
be  used  previous  to  or  at  the  time  of  sowing  the  seed,  and 
not  even  then  if  the  ground  be  wet,  it  is  necessary  that  the 
gardener  should  have  a  hogshead  always  at  hand  in  dry 
weather,  containing  infusions  made  of  waste  tobacco,  lime, 
soot,  cowdung,  elder,  burdock  leaves,  &c.  A  portion  of  these 
ingredients,  or  any  other  preparation  that  is  pernicious  or 
poisonous  to  insects,  without  injuring  the  plants,  thrown  into 
a  hogshead  kept  filled  up  with  water,  if  used  moderately  over 
beds  of  young  plants  in  dry  weather,  would,  in  almost  every 
case,  insure  a  successful  crop. 

Saltpetre  is  pernicious  to  many  species  of  insects ;  it  is 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  19 

also  an  excellent  manure,  and  may  be  used  to  great  advan- 
tage when  dissolved  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  four 
gallons  of  water.  This  liquid,  applied  to  plants  through  the 
rose  of  a  watering-pot,  will  preserve  health  and  vigour. 
Soapsuds  are  equally  beneficial,  if  used  occasionally  in  the 
same  manner — say  once  a  week.  These  remedies,  applied 
alternately,  have  been  known  to  preserve  Melon  and  Cucum- 
ber vines  from  the  ravages  of  the  yellow  fly,  bugs,  blight, 
&c.,  and  to  keep  the  plants  in  a  thiiving  condition. 

As  liquid,  however,  cannot  be  conveniently  used  on  a  large 
piece  of  land,  it  may  be  necessary,  if  insects  are  numerous, 
to  sow  tobacco  dust,  mixed  with  road  dust,  soot,  ashes,  lime, 
or  the  dust  of  charcoal,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  bushel  per 
acre,  every  morning,  unfel  the  plants  are  free  or  secure  frond 
their  attacks.  Turnip  seed  will  sometimes  sprout  in  forty- 
eight  hours.  Cabbage  seed  ought  to  come  up  within  a  week 
after  it  is  sown ;  but  it  sometimes  happens  that  the  whole  is 
destroyed  before  a  plant  is  seen  above  ground ;  the  seeds- 
man, in  this  case,  is  often  blamed,  but  without  cause.* 

A  correspondent  has  communicated  the  result  of  an  exper- 
iment he  has  tried  for  preventing  the  attacks  of  flies  or  fleas 
on  Turnips.  He  says,  "  Steep  your  seed  iri  a  pint  of  warm 
water  for  two  hours,  in  which  is  infused  one  ounce  of  salt- 
petre ;  then  dry  the  seed,  and  add  currier's  oil  sufficient  to 
wet  the  whole ;  after  which  mix  it  with  plaster  of  Paris,  so 
as  to  separate  and  render  it  fit  for  sowing."  Fish  oil  is 

*  As  the  truth  of  the  old  adage,  That  one  ounce  of  prevention  is  of  more 
value  than  a  pound  of  cure,  is  very  generally  admitted,  I  would  recom- 
mend the  following  method  of  preparing  a  bed  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Broccoli,  and  such  other  plants  as  are  subject  to  the 
attacks  of  insects  :  After  digging  or  ploughing  the  ground  in  the  usual 
way,  collect  any  combustibles  that  are  attainable,  as  dried  weeds,  sedge, 
turf,  brushwood,  leaves,  stubble,  corn-stalks,  sawdust,  or  even  litter  from 
the  dung-heap,  which  should  be  placed  in  heaps  on  the  seed-beds  and 
burned  to  ashes ;  then  rake  the  ground  over  and  sow  the  seed,  which  will 
not  be  attacked  by  insects  while  the  effects  of  the  fire  remain.  In  the 
event  of  extremely  dry  weather,  water  the  beds  every  evening  until  the 
plants  are  in  full  leaf.  This  is  an  infallible  remedy. 


20  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

known  to  be  destructive  to  ants  and  various  other  small 
insects,  but  it  is  difficult  to  apply  to  plants. 

In  the  summer  season,  Broccoli,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower, 
&c.,  are  particularly  subject  to  the  ravages  of  grubs  and 
caterpillars ;  £o  prevent  this  wholly,  is  perhaps  impossible, 
but  it  is  not  difficult  to  check  these  troublesome  visitors ;  this 
may  be  done  by  searching  for  them  on  their  first  appearance, 
and  destroying  them.  Early  in  the  morning,  grubs  may  be 
collected  from  the  earth,  within  two  or  three  inches  of  such 
plants  as  they  may  have  attacked  the  night  previous. 

The  approach  of  caterpillars  is  discoverable  on  the  leaves 
of  Cabbages,  many  of  which  are  reduced  to  a  thin  white  skin 
by  the  minute  insects  which  emerge  from  the  eggs  placed  on 
them ;  these  leaves  being  gathered  and  thrown  into  the  fire, 
a  whole  host  of  enemies  may  be  destroyed  at  once  ;  whereas, 
if  they  are  suffered  to  remain,  they  will  increase  so  rapidly, 
that  in  a  few  days  the  plantation,  however  extensive,  may 
become  infested ;  and,  when  once  these  arrive  at  the  butterfly 
or  moth  stage  of  existence,  they  become  capable  of  perpetu- 
ating their  destructive  race  to  an  almost  unlimited  extent 
The  same  remarks  apply  to  all  other  insects  in  a  torpid  state. 

Worms,  maggots,  snails,  or  slugs,  may  be  driven  away  by 
sowing  salt  or  lime  in  the  spring,  in  the  proportion  of  two  to 
three  bushels  per  acre,  or  by  watering  the  soil  occasionally 
with  salt  arid  water,  using  about  two  pounds  of  salt  to  foui 
gallons  of  water ;  or  the  slug  kind  may  be  easily  entrapped 
on  small  beds  of  plants,  by  strewing  slices  of  turnip  on  them 
late  in  the  evening ;  the  slug  or  snail  will  readily  crowd  on 
them,  and  may  be  gathered  up  early  in  the  morning  (before 
sunrise)  and  destroyed. 

Moles  may  be  annoyed  and  driven  away,  by  obstructing 
the  passage  in  their  burrows  with  sticks  smeared  with  tar. 
First  insert  a  clean  stick  from  the  surface  through  the  bur- 
rows ;.>then  dip  others  in  tar,  and  pass  them  through  into  the 
floor  of  the  burrows,  being  careful  not  to  rub  off  the  tar  in 
the  operation.  Tar  is  also  an  effectual  remedy  against  smut 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  21 

in  wheat :  after  being  heated  in  a  kettle  until  it  becomes 
thin,  it  may  be  stirred  in  among  the  grain  until  it  becomes 
saturated.  The  wheat  should  afterward  be  mixed  with  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  wood  ashes  to  dry  and  render  it  fit  for 
sowing. 

To  prevent  depredations  from  crows,  steep  corn  in  strong 
saltpetre  brine,  sow  it  over  the  land,  or  steep  your  seed  corn ; 
and  if  the  crows  once  get  a  taste,  they  will  forsake  the  field. 

Perhaps  the  next  important  point  to  be  attended  to  is  the 
most  proper  rotation  of  crops.  Virgil,  who  was  a  philoso- 
pher as  well  as  a  poet,  very  justly  observes,  that  "  THE  TRUE 

REPOSE  OP  THE  EARTH  IS  A  CHANGE  OF  ITS  PRODUCTIONS." 

It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  a  plant  may  be  killed  by  the 
poison  which  it  has  itself  secreted,  as  a  viper  may  be  de- 
stroyed by  its  own  venom.  Hence  it  has  been  very  gene- 
rally noticed,  that  the  soil  in  which  some  particular  vege- 
tables have  grown,  and  into  which  they  have  discharged  the 
excretions  of  their  roots,  is  rendered  noxious  to  the  prosperity 
of  plants  of  the  same  or  allied  species,  though  it  be  well 
adapted  to  the  growth  and  support  of  other  distinct  species 
of  vegetables. 

It  is  proved  by  experience,  that  fall  Spinach  is  an  excellent 
preparative  for  Beets,  Carrots,  Radishes,  Salsify,  and  all  other 
tap,  as  well  as  tuberous  rooted  vegetables. 

Celery  or  Potatoes  constitute  a  suitable  preparative  for 
Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  and  all  other  plants  of  the  Brassica 
tribe;  as  also  Artichokes,  Asparagus,  Lettuce,  and  Onions, 
provided  such  ground  be  well  situated,  which  is  a  circum- 
stance always  to  be  duly  considered  in  laying  out  a  garden. 

Lands  that  have  long  lain  in  pasture  are,  for  the  first  three 
or  four  years  after  being  tilled,  superior  for  Cabbage,  Tur- 
nips, Potatoes,  &c.,  and  afterward  for  culinary  vegetables  in 
general. 

The  following  rules  are  subjoined  for  farther  government : 

Fibrous  rooted  plants  may  be  alternated  with  tap  or 
tuberous  rooted,  and  vice  versa. 


22  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

Plants  which  produce  luxuriant  tops,  so  as  to  shad^  the 
land,  to  be  succeeded  by  such  as  yield  small  tops,  or  narrow 
leaves. 

Plants  which  during  their  growth  require  the  operation  of 
Stirling  the  earth,  to  precede  such  as  do  not  admit  of  such 
culture. 

Ground  which  has  been  occupied  by  Artichokes,  Aspara- 
gus, Rhubarb,  Sea  Kale,  or  such  other  crops  as  remain  long 
on  a  given  spot,  should  be  subjected  to  a  regular  rotation  of 
crops,  for  at  least  as  long  a  period  as  it  remained  under  such 
permanent  crops.  Hence,  in  all  gardens  judiciously  man- 
aged, the  Strawberry  bed  is  changed  every  three  or  four 
years,  till  it  has  gone  the  circuit  of  all  the  compartments ; 
and  Asparagus  beds,  &c.,  should  be  renewed  on  the  same 
principle,  as  often  as  they  fail  to  produce  luxuriantly.  In- 
deed, no  two  crops  should  be  allowed  to  ripen  their  seed  in 
succession  in  the  same  soil,  if  it  can  be  avoided ;  because,  if 
it  be  not  exhausted  by  such  crops,  weeds  will  accumulate 
more  than  on  beds  frequently  cultivated. 

Manure  should  be  applied  to  the  most  profitable  and  ex- 
hausting crops ;  and  the  succession  of  crops  should  be  so 
arranged,  that  the  ground  may  be  occupied  by  plants  either 
valuable  in  themselves,  or  which  may  contribute  to  the  in- 
creased value  of  those  which  are  to  follow  ;  and  the  value  of 
the  labour  required  to  mature  vegetables,  and  prepare  them 
for  market,  should  be  always  taken  into  consideration. 

Many  kinds  of  seed,  such  as  Asparagus,  Capsicum,  Celery, 
Fetticus,  Leek,  Lettuce,  Onion,  Parsnip,  Parsley,  Rhubarb, 
Salsify,  Spinach,  &:c.,  will  not  vegetate  freely  in  dry  weather, 
unless  the  ground  be  watered  or  rolled ;  where  there  is  no 
roller  on  the  premises,  the  following  contrivance  may  answer 
for  small  beds  as  a  substitute  :  after  the  seed  is  sown,  and  the 
ground  well  raked,  take  a  board  the  whole  length  of  the  bed, 
lay  it  flat  on  the  ground,  begin  at  one  edge  of  the  bed,  and  walk 
the  whole  length  of  it ;  this  will  press  the  soil  on  the  seed, 
then  shift  the  board  till  you  have  gone  over  the  whole  bed. 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 


23 


In  the  absence  of  boards,  tread  in  the  seed  with  your  feet, 
or  strike  on  the  bed  with  the  back  of  your  spade  or  shovel  • 
but  this  should  not  be  done  when  the  ground  is  wet. 

If  it  be  necessary  at  any  time  to  sow  seed  in  extremely  dry 
weather,  it? is  recommended  to  soak  the  seed  in  water,  and 
dry  it  with  sulphur.  This  practice,  with  attentive  water- 
ing, will  cause  the  seed  to  vegetate  speedily. 

If  it  should  be  requisite  to  transplant  any  thing  when  the 
ground  is  dry,  the  transplanting  should  always  be  done  as 
soon  as  the  earth  is  turned  over,  and  the  roots  of  the  plants, 
before  they  are  set  out,  should  be  steeped  in  mud  made 
of  rich  compost. 

I  have,  in  most  cases,  recommended  seed  to  be  sown  in 
drills  drawn  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  apart,  in  preference 
to  sowing  broadcast,  because  the  weeds  can  be  more  easily 
destroyed  by  means  of  a  small  hoe,  which,  if  properly  used, 
greatly  promotes  the  growth  of  young  plants. 


The  following  table  may  be  useful  to  the  gardener,  in 
showing  the  number  of  plants  or  trees  that  may  be  raised  on 
an  acre  of  ground,  when  planted  at  any  of  the  under-men- 
tioned distances : 


Distance  apart.  No.  of  Plants. 

1  foot 43,560 

U  feet 19,360 

2  feet 10,890 

2i  feet 6,969 

3  feet 4,840 

4  feet 2,722 

5  feet 1,742 

6  feet 1,210 


Distance  apart.  No.  of  Plants. 

9  feet 537 

12  feet 302 

15  feet 193 

18  feet 134 

21  feet 98 

24  feet 75 

27  feet 59 

30  feet  ,                                48 


The  preceding  table  may  serve  as  a  guide  to  such  as  are 
not  expert  in  arithmetic,  in  laying  out  a  garden,  as  it  shows 
at  one  view  many  proportions  of  an  acre  of  land,  in  squares 


24  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

of  different  dimensions.  The  last  line,  for  instance,  snows 
that,  if  forty-eight  trees  be  planted  on  an  acre,  each  thirty 
feet  apart,  there  may  be  forty-eight  beds  of  thirty  feet  square, 
or  thirty  beds  of  forty-eight  feet  square,  formed  from  the 
same  quantity  of  land.  An  allowance  of  about  .one-eighth 
must,  however,  be  made  from  the  above  calculation  for  walks 
and  paths. 

The  table  may  also  serve  to  show  the  gardener  how  to 
dispose  of  any  given  quantity  of  manure,  that  may  be  allotted 
for  an  acre  of  ground.  If,  for  instance,  it  requires  three 
hundred  and  two  trees  to  plant  an  acre  when  placed  twelve 
feet  from  each  other,  it  will  require  as  many  heaps  of  manure 
to  cover  the  same  quantity  of  ground,  if  dropped  the  same 
distance  apart.  It  therefore  follows,  that  if  one  hundred 
loads  be  allowed  to  the  acre,  each  load  must  be  divided  into 
three  heaps.  If  seventy-five  loads  only  be  allowed,  every 
load  must  be  divided  into  four  heaps,  and  so  on  in  proportion 
to  the  quantity  allowed.  But  if  the  gardener  should  choose 
to  drop  his  heaps  five  paces  or  fifteen  feet  apart,  he  may 
make  such  distribution  of  his  loads  as  to  have  one  hundred 
and  ninety-three  heaps  on  the  acre  of  land ;  in  which  case 
by  dividing  each  load  into  four  heaps,  he  will  require  only 
forty-eight  loads  to  cover  the  acre,  and  he  may  decrease  the 
quantity  still  more,  by  allowing  greater  distances  from  heap 
to  heap,  or  by  dividing  his  loads  into  smaller  proportions,  so 
as  to  accommodate  himself  to  whatever  quantity  of  manure 
he  may  allot  to  any  given  quantity  of  ground. 


As  it  may  not  be  generally  known  that  some  kinds  of 
seed  are  apt  to  lose  their  vegetative  qualities  much  sooner 
than  others,  the  following  hints  are  subjoined  as  some  rule  for 
the  gardener's  government,  provided  the  seed  is  carefully 
preserved,  and  not  exposed  to  excess  of  heat,  air,  or  damp 
ness: 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 


Parsnip,  Rhubarb,  and  other  light,  scale-like  seeds,  cannot 
oe  safely  trusted  after  they  are  a  year  old. 

Beans  and  Peas  of  different  species,  Capsicum,  Carrot, 
Cress,  Leek,  Nasturtium,  Okra,  Onion,  Salsify,  Scorzonera, 
and  small  Herb  seed  in  general,  may  be  kept  two  years. 

Artichoke,  Asparagus,  Egg-plant,  Endive,  Fetticus,  Let- 
tuce, Mustard,  Parsley,  Skirret,  and  Spinach  seed,  may  with 
care  be  preserved  three  years. 

Broccoli,  Cauliflower,  Cabbage,  Celery,  Kale,  Radish,  and 
Turnip  seed,  will  keep  four  years,  if  properly  attended  to. 

Beet,  Cucumber,  Gourd,  Melon,  Pumpkin,  and  Squash, 
also,  Burnet,  Chervil,  and  Sorrel  seed,  have  been  known  to 
grow  freely  when  five  and  even  seven  years  old  ;  but  it  is  not 
prudent  to  venture  seed  in  the  garden,  of  the  soundness  of 
which  we  are  not  certain. 

In  order  to  put  such  on  their  guard  as  may  attempt  to  raise 
seed  either  for  their  own  use  or  for  the  market,  I  would 
observe  that  great  care  is  necessary,  as  it  is  an  indubitable 
fact,  that  if  seed  of  similar  species  be  raised  near  each  other, 
degeneracy  will  be  the  consequence  ;  it  is,  therefore,  difficult 
for  any  one  man  to  raise  all  sorts  of  seed,  good  and  true  to 
their  kind,  in  any  one  garden. 

If  roots  of  any  kind  become  defective,  they  are  unfit  for 
seed,  as  the  annexed  fact  will  show.  I  once  planted  for  seed 
some  beautiful  orange-coloured  roots  of  Carrots,  but  as  they 
had  been  previously  grown  with  some  of  a  lemon-colour, 
they  produced  seed  of  a  mixed  and  spurious  breed  ;  and  as 
this  is  not  a  solitary  instance  of  degeneracy  from  the  like 
cause,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion,  that  as  in  the  animal 
frame,  so  it  is  in  the  vegetable  system  —  disorders  very  fre- 
quently lay  dormant  from  one  generation  to  another,  and  at 
length  break  out  with  all  their  vigour;  I  would  therefore 
advise  seed  growers  not  to  attempt  to  "  bring  a  clean  thing 
out  of  an  unclean,"  but  if  they  find  a  mixture  of  varieties 
among  their  seed  roots,  to  reject  the  whole,  or  they  will  in- 
fallibly have  spurious  seed. 

3 


GENERAL    REMARKS. 


TABLE  AND  EXPLICATION. 

*.£*  IN  order  to  aid  the  novice  in  gardening,  the  following 
brief  classification  of  such  species  and  varieties  as  comprise 
our  catalogue  of  vegetable  seed  is  submitted,  and  it  is  pre- 
sumed that  the  connecting  links,  and  explication  of  this  table, 
will  not  be  altogether  uninteresting  to  the  experienced  gar- 
dener and  seedsman. 


CATALOGUE. 

i 
^ 

Half-Hardy. 

Tender. 

Quick 
in  Germinating.  I 

Medium 
in  Germinating.  1 

1 

-~! 
1 

c 

J| 

5  - 

ai 

e)*-> 
O 

Most 
essential 
Nutriment. 

1 

Moisture 

Asparagus  

Q 

..0.  . 
.0   . 

..0.  . 

.  .0.. 

Beans  (English  Dwarfs)  

.0. 

.  .0.  . 

.  .0.. 

Beans  (Kidney       do) 

0 

.   0 

Beans  (pole)  

o 

0 

..0.. 

Beet  

..0 

.0.  . 

..0.. 
..0.. 

Borecole,  or  Kale,  &c  

..0.. 

.   0.. 

.  .0.  . 

..0.  . 

.  .0.. 

..0.. 

..0.  . 

.  .0.. 

Celery  

..0.. 

.  .0.  . 

..0.. 

.  .0.. 

Corn8i>!ad  

..0.. 

o 

.  .0-. 

.  .0.. 

.  .0.  . 

..0.  . 
..0.. 

0 

..0.  . 

..0.. 

o 

.  .0.  . 

Leek     

.    0-  • 

.  .0.  . 

.  .0.  . 

|  Lettuce  

.    0 

o 

.  .0.. 

.  .0.  . 

Melon  (musk)  

o 

o 

..0.. 

Melon  (water)  

u 

.  .0    . 

..0.. 
.  .Q.  . 

'  'o*  * 

Okra  

..0.. 

o 

.    . 

Parsley  

:  o'.'  '.'.  " 

o 

o 

Parsnip  

.  .0. 

o 

o 

Peppers  

.   0. 

Q 

0 

.0 

Pe.is  

.  .0.  . 

.0    . 

.   0.. 

o 

o 

o 

Radish... 

..0 

o 

o 

Salsify  

.  .0.  . 

.    0 

0. 

o 

o 

o 

o 

o 

0 

'n'  ' 

..0.. 
n 

n" 

n 

In  explication  of  the  table,  it  may  be  necessary  first  to 
premise,  that  in  the  classification,  as  regards  the  germinating 
powers  of  different  kinds  of  seed,  it  is  conceded  that  if  some 
of  those  denominated  medium  were  put  upon  an  equal  foot- 
ing with  some  of  the  class  denominated  quick-growing,  they 
would  vegetate  in  about  the  same  time.  For  instance,  Peas 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  27 

would  sprout  as  quick  as  Kidney  Beans,  with  the  same  tem- 
perature ;  but  Peas,  being  hardy,  are  generally  planted  a 
month  earlier  in  the  season.  If  Beans  were  planted  at  the 
same  time,  they  would  rot  for  want  of  genial  heat  necessary 
to  their  germination. 

Many  of  the  species  denominated  medium  and  tardy,  re- 
quire considerable  moisture  to  produce  vegetation  ;  when  not 
attainable,  tardiness  of  growth,  and  sometimes  total  failure,  are 
the  consequence ;  judicious  gardeners,  however,  generally 
obviate  difficulties  of  this  nature,  by  sowing  such  seed  at  the 
most  favourable  seasons.  Those  who  delay  sowing  Carrot, 
Celery,  Leek,  Parsley,  Onion,  Parsnip,  Spinach,  &c.,  until 
dry  summer  weather,  render  themselves  liable  to  disappoint 
merit  and  loss  thereby.  * 

As  some  gardeners  are  apt  to  attribute  all  failures  of  seed 
to  its  defectiveness,  I  shall,  in  the  hope  of  convincing  such 
of  their  error,  offer  a  few  observations  under  each  head  of 
the  table. 

The  first  and  second  classes,  denominated  hardy  and  half- 
hardy,  are  subject  to  risk  in  unpropitious  seasons,  from  un- 
fitness  of  the  soil  to  promote  vegetation,  rendered  so  by  cold 
rains  and  variable  weather.  If  sprouted  seed  survive  a 
severe  chill,  it  is  the  more  susceptible  of  frost,  to  which  it  is 

*  As  the  matter  relative  to  the  first  seven  columns  was  in  type  previous 
to  the  introduction  of  the  last  two  columns,  I  would  here  offer  a  few  ob- 
servations illustrative  of  their  object.  People  in  general,  from  not  con- 
sidering that  the  products  of  our  gardens,  being  natives  of  the  various  cli- 
mates of  the  earth,  have  each  its  peculiar  aliment,  expect  to  raise  whatever 
they  may  wish  for  at  almost  any  season.  By  referring  to  the  classification 
in  the  eighth  and  ninth  columns,  they  will  be  at  once  convinced  of  their 
error,  as  it  will  appear  evident  that  such  vegetables  as  require  heat  will 
grow  best  in  summer,  while  those  whose  most  essential  nutriment  is 
moisture,  must  be  raised  either  in  spring  or  autumn.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  remind  the  gardener  that,  from  the  American  spring  being  short,  little 
can  be  done  before  the  approach  of  warm  weather ;  it  should  therefore  be 
our  object  to  improve  the  autumn  months  in  the  cultivation  of  such  vege- 
tables as  can  be  brought  to  maturity  before  the  setting  in  of  winter.  Having 
under  each  head  of  the  Calendar  recommended  the  most  appropriate  seasons 
for  the  different  articles,  it  is  unnecessary  to  dilate  faither  here,  except  to 
invoke  my  readers  to  adhere  strictly  thereto. 


28  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

frequently  subjected  early  in  the  season.  Some  species  of 
plants  that,  in  an  advanced  stage  of  growth,  will  stand  a  hard 
winter,  are  often  cut  off  by  very  slight  frost  while  germinating, 
especially  if  exposed  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  after  a  frosty 
night,  or  while  in  a  frozen  state.  Cabbage,  Carrot,  Celery, 
Turnip,  and  many  other  growing  plants,  which  survive  the 
ordinary  winters  of  England,  are  here  classed  as  half-hardy, 
for  the  reasons  above  stated. 

The  third  class,  or  most  tender  species,  frequently  perish 
from  excess  of  rain.  Lima  Beans,  for  instance,  have  often 
to  be  replanted  three  or  four  times  in  the  month  of  May, 
before  any  will  stand.  Melons,  Cucumbers,  Egg-plants, 
Tomato  plants,  &c.,  are  also  often  cut  off  by  variableness  of 
the  weather ;  indeed,  it  is  unreasonable  to  expect  natives  of 
tropical  climates  to  thrive  or  even  live  in  a  climate  adverse 
to  that  in  which  nature  first  produced  them,  unless  protected 
or  nursed  in  unpropitious  seasons,  as  recommended  under 
the  head  forcing  vegetables.  Those  who  plant  tender  things 
in  open  gardens  early  in  the  season,  must  reconcile  them- 
selves to  loss  in  the  event  of  unfavourable  weather,  instead 
of  throwing  blame  on  the  seedsman. 

The  fourth  class,  embracing  such  species  and  varieties  as, 
from  their  nature,  are  apt  to  vegetate  quickly,  are  very  liable 
to  be  devoured  by  insects  before  they  make  any  show  on  the 
surface.  Turnip  seed,  for  instance,  will  sprout  within  forty- 
eight  hours  after  being  sown  ;  and  under  favourable  circum- 
stances, most  of  the  species  of  this  class  will  come  up  within 
a  week ;  but  if  insects  attack  the  seed  beds  iri  dry  weather, 
a  total  loss  of  crops  will  be  the  consequence.  Every  expe- 
rienced farmer  is  convinced  of  this  fact,  by  having  frequently 
to  sow  his  Turnip  ground  three  or  four  times  before  he  can 
get  any  to  stand. 

Sometimes  a  sudden  shower  of  rain  will  cause  plants  to 
grow  out  of  the  reach  of  insects,  but  every  good  gardenei 
should  have  his  remedies  at  hand  to  apply  to  seed  beds  in 


GENERAL    REMARKS.  29 

general,  and  especially  to  those  in  which  plants  are  raised 
for  the  purpose  of  being  transplanted. 

Those  species  and  varieties  embraced  in  the  fifth  and  sixth 
columns,  often  take  from  two  to  three  or  four  weeks  to  vege- 
tate in  unfavourable  seasons.  Some  plants  are  retarded  by 
cold,  others  by  excess  of  dry  weather ;  and  at  such  times, 
seed  'may  fail  to  vegetate  for  want  of  pressure.  In  the 
event  of  drought  after  neavy  rains,  seed  and  young  plants 
often  perish  through  incrustation  of  the  soil,  and  from  other 
untoward  circumstances,  which  can  neither  be  controlled  or 
accounted  for,  even  by  the  most  assiduous  and  precise  gar- 
dener. It  must,  however,  be  conceded,  that  failures  often 
occur,  through  seed  being  deposited  too  deep  in  the  ground, 
or  left  too  near  the  surface ;  sometimes,  for  want  of  suffi- 
ciency of  seed  in  a  given  spot,  solitary  plants  will  perish, 
they  not  having  sufficient  strength  to  open  the  pores  of  the 
earth,  and  very  frequently  injudicious  management  in  ma- 
nuring and  preparing  the  soil  will  cause  defeat. 

I  have  been  induced  to  expatiate,  and  to  designate,  in  the 
seventh  rnnge  of  the  preceding  tahle,  such  plants  as  are  gene- 
rally cultivated  first  in  seed  beds,  arid  afterward  transplanted 
for  the  purpose  of  being  accommodated  with  space  to  mature 
in,  with  a  view  to  answer  at  once  the  thousand  and  one 
questions  asked  by  inexperienced  cultivators,  at  my  counter. 

Some  persons,  from  ignorance  of  the  nature  and  object  of 
raising  plants  for  transplanting,  ask  for  pounds  of  seed,  when 
an  ounce  is  amply  sufficient  for  their  purpose.  For  example, 
an  ounce  of  Celery  seed  will  produce  ten  thousand  plants. 
An  ounce  of  Cabbage  seed  will  produce  from  three  to  four 
thousand,  sufficient,  when  transplanted,  to  cover  nearly  half 
an  acre  of  land,  which  land,  if  sown  with  Spinach,  for 
instance,  would  require  from  four  to  six  pounds  of  seed. 

To  prevent  any  altercation  on  this  subject,  I  would  observe, 
in  conclusion,  that  many  other  vegetables  will  admit  of 
being  transplanted  besides  those  designated  in  our  table  ; 
but  as  there  is  considerable  risk  and  trouble  inseparable  from 

3* 


30  GENERAL    REMARKS. 

the  operation,  it  is  needless  to  apply  it,  unless  there  are  para- 
mount advantages  to  be  gained,  the  reverse  of  which  would 
be  the  case,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  with  the  gene- 
rality of  those  plants  not  thus  designated. 

Instead  of  answering  any  more  queries,  I  think  I  shall  for 
the  future  follow  the  example  of  the  truly  eccentric  Aber- 
nethy,  and  refer  all  enquirers  for  information  to  my  books, 
which  contain  an  answer  to  every  important  question  that 
has  been  put  to  me  on  the  subject  of  gardening  'since  I 
became  an  author. 

T.  BRIDGEMAN. 


*#*  PREVIOUS  to  the  commencement  of  our  Catalogue,  it 
may  be  necessary  to  remind  the  reader,  that  the  directions 
which  follow  are  founded  on  the  results  of  practical  experi- 
ence in  the  vicinity  of  NEW- YORK  CITY,  where  the  soil  is 
generally  susceptible  of  gardening  operations  toward  the 
end  of  March.  These  directions  may,  however,  be  applied 
to  all  other  parts  of  the  UNITED  STATES,  by  a  minute  observ- 
ance of  the  difference  in  temperature. 

In  the  extreme  northern  parts  of  the  State  of  New- York, 
as  well  as  in  all  other  places  similarly  situated,  the  directions 
for  the  beginning  of  April  will  apply  to  the  latter  end  of 
the  same  month,  with  very  few  exceptions. 

In  our  SOUTHERN  STATES,  the  directions  for  APRIL, 
which  may  be  considered  as  the  first  gardening  month  in  the 
EASTERN,  WESTERN,  and  MIDDLE  STATES,  will  apply  to  Janu- 
ary, February,  or  to  whatever  season  gardening  operations 
may  commence  in  the  respective  States. 

In  the  varied  climates  of  each  particular  State,  if  the  same 
rule  of  application  be  pursued  in  accordance  with  the  Calen- 
dar, success  is  certain. 


•  &&&  "** 
CATALOGUE, 

&c.,    Sec- 


ARTICHOKE. 
ARTICHAUT.     Cynara. 

VARIETIES. 
Cynara  Scolymus,  or  French.          I          Cynara  Hortensis,  or  Globe. 

THE  garden  Artichoke  is  a  native  of  the  South  of  Europe, 
and  much  cultivated  for  the  London  and  Paris  markets.  It 
is  a  perennial  plant,  producing  from  the  root  annually  its 
large  squamose  heads,  in  full  growth,  from  June  or  July, 
until  October  or  November.  The  Globe  Artichoke,  which 
produces  large  globular  heads,  is  best  for  general  culture, 
the  heads  being  considerably  larger,  and  the  eatable  parts 
more  thick  and  plump. 

Both  sorts  may  be  raised  from  seed,  *  or  young  suckers 
taken  from  old  plants  in  the  spring.  A  plantation  of  Arti- 
chokes will  produce  good  heads  six  or  seven  years,  and 
sometimes  longer ;  but  it  must  be  observed,  that  if  a  supply 
of  this  delicious  vegetable  be  required  throughout  the  season, 
a  small  plantation  should  be  made  from  suckers  every  spring, 
for  a  successive  crop,  as  the  young  plants  will  continue  to 
produce  their  heads  in  perfection,  after  the  crops  of  the  old 
standing  ones  are  over. 

The  most  likely  way  to  obtain  a  supply  of  Artichokes 
from  seed,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  the  latter  end  of  March,  or 
at  any  time  in  April,  in  a  bed  of  good  rich  earth,  or  it  may 
be  planted  in  drills  one  inch  deep,  and  about  twelve  inches 
apart.  The  /ground  should  be  light  and  moist,  not  such  as  is 
apt  to  become  bound  up  by  heat,  or  that,  in  consequence  of 

*  One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  six  hundred  plants 


32  ARTICHOKE. 

containing  too  large  a  proportion  of  sand,  is  liable  to  become 
violently  hot  in  summer,  for  this  is  extremely  injurious  to 
these  plants.  After  the  plants  are  up,  they  should  be  kept 
free  from  weeds,  and  the  earth  often  loosened  around  them. 

The  business  of  transplanting  may  be  done  in  cloudy  or 
wet  weather,  at  any  time  after  the  plants  are  from  nine  to 
twelve  inches  high.  Having  fixed  upon  a  proper  soil  and 
situation,  lay  on  it  a  good  quantity  of  rotten  dung,  and  trench 
the  ground  one  good  spade  or  eighteen  inches  deep,  incor- 
porating the  manure  therewith ;  this  being  done,  take  up 
the  plants,  and  after  shortening  their  tap  roots  a  little,  and 
dressing  their  leaves,  plant  them  with  a  dibble,-  in  rows  five 
feet  asunder,  and v  two  feet  from  plant  to  plant,  leaving  part 
of  their  green  tops  above  ground,  and  the  hearts  of  the  plants 
free  from  any  earth  over  them,  and  give  each  plant  a  little 
water  to  settle  the  roots. 

The  winter  dressing  of  Artichokes  is  an  important  opera- 
tion;  on.  it  depends  much  of  their  future  success.  This 
should  not  be  given  them  as  long  as  the  season  continues 
mild,  that  they  may  have  all  possible  advantage  of  growth, 
and  be  gradually  inured  to  the  increasing  cold  weather ;  but 
it  should  not  be  deferred  too  late,  lest  by  the  sudden  setting 
in  of  hard  frost,  to  which  we  are  subject  in  the  Northern 
States,  the  work  be  neglected,  and  the  plants  consequently 
exposed  to  devastation  and  loss. 

In  the  first  place,  cut  all  the  large  leaves  close  to  the 
ground,  leaving  the  small  ones  which  rise  from  the  hearts 
of  the  plants  ;  after  this,  line  and  mark  out  a  trench  in  the 
middle,  between  each  row,  from  fourteen  to  sixteen  inches 
wide,  presuming  that  the  rows  are  five  feet  apart,  as  directed. 
Then  dig  the  surface  of  the  beds  lightly  from  trench  to 
trench,  burying  the  weeds,  and  as  you  proceed,  gather  the 
earth  around  the  crowns  of  the  plants  to  the  height  of  about 
six  inches,  placing  it  in  gently  between  the  young  rising  leaves, 
without  burying  them  entirely  under  it ;  this  done,  dig  the 
trenches  one  spade  deep,  and  distribute  the  earth  equally 


ARTICHOKE.  33 

between  and  on  each  side  of  the  plants,  so  as  to  level  the 
ridges,  giving  them,  at  the  same  time,  a  neat  rounding  form; 
finish  by  casting  up  with  a  shovel  the  loose  earth  out  of  i  the 
bottom  of  the  trenches  evenly  over  the  ridges,  in  order  that 
the  water  occasioned  by  heavy  rains,  &c.,  may  immediately 
run  off;  on  which  account  the  trenches  ought  to  have  a  gen- 
tle declivity,  as  the  lodgment  of  water  about  the  roots  in 
winter  is  the  greatest  evil  and  danger  to  which  they  are  expos- 
ed, even  greater  than  the  most  seveie  frosts  to  which  we  are 
subject. 

The  beds  are  to  remain  so,  until  there  is  an  appearance 
of  hard  frost,  when  they  should  be  covered  with  light  dung, 
litter,  leaves  of  tree's,  or  the  like,  the  better  to  preserve  the 
crowns  and  roots  from  its  rigour.  In  this  manner,  the  roots 
will  remain  in  perfect  safety  all  the  winter.  As  soon  as  the 
very  severe  frosts  are  over,  the  beds  must  be  uncovered,  and 
when  you  perceive  the  young  shoots  begin  to  appear  above 
ground,  or  rather  when  they  are  one  or  two  inches  up,  then, 
and  not  till  then,  proceed  to  level  down  the  beds,  throwing 
the  earth  into  the  alleys  or  trenches,  and  round  them  in  a 
neat  manner  ;  then  dig  in  the  short  nianure,  and  loosen  all 
the  earth  around  the  plants.  At  the  same  time,  examine  the 
number  of  shoots  arising  on  each  stool,  and  select  three  of 
the  strongest  and  healthiest  looking  on  every  stool,  which  are 
to  remain ;  all  above  that  number  are  to  be  slipped  off  close 
to  the  roots  with  the  hand,  unless  you  want  some  to  make 
new  plantations  with,  in  which  case  an  extra  number  for  that 
purpose  are  to  remain  on  the  parent  plants,  until  <they  are 
about  eight  or  ten  inches  high  from  their  roots,  or  junction 
with  the.  old  plants,  when  they  are  to  be  slipped  off,  and 
planted  in  a  bed  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  directed 
for  the  young  plants,  taking  care,  at  the  same  time,  to  close 
the  earth  about  the  crowns  of  the  roots,  and  draw  it  up  a 
little  to  the  remaining  suckers. 

Observe,  the  spring  dressing  is  to  be  given  when  the  plants 
are  in  the  above-described  state,  whether  that  happens  in 


34  ASPARAGUS. 

February,  March,  or  April,  occasioned  by  the  difference  of 
climate,  in  the  respective  States,  or  by  the  earliness  or  late- 
ness of  the  spring. 

The  gardeners  near  London  generally  take  off  the  side 
suckers,  or  small  Artichokes,  when  they  are  about  the  size 
of  a  hen's  egg.  These  meet  with  a  ready  sale  in  the  mar- 
kets, and  the  principal  heads  that  are  left  are  always  larger 
and  more  handsome.  The  maturity  of  a  full-grown  Arti- 
choke is  apparent  by  the  opening  of  the  scales  ;  and  it  should 
always  be  cut  off  before  the  flower  appears  in  the  centre ; 
the  stem  should  be  cut  close  to  the  ground  at  the  same 
time. 

Artichokes  are  esteemed  a  luxury  by  epicures.  To  have 
them  in  perfection,  they  should  be  thrown  into  cold  water 
as  soon  as  gathered,  and  after  having  been  soaked  and  well 
washed,  put  into  the  boiler  when  the  water  is  hot,  with 
a  little  salt,  and  kept  boiling  until  tender,  which  generally 
requires,  for  full-grown  Artichokes,  from  an  hour  and  a  half 
to  two  hours.  When  taken  up,  drain  and  trim  them ;  then 
serve  them  up  with  melted  butter,  pepper,  salt,  and  such 
other  condiment  as  may  best  suit  the  palate. 


ASPARAGUS. 
ASPERGE.      Asparagus  officinalis. 

VARIETIES. 

Gravesend.  I  Large  Battersea. 

Large  White  Reading.  Large  Green,  or  Giant. 

THIS  plant  is  a  native  of  cold  climates,  and  is  found  grow- 
ing wild  in  Russia  and  Poland,  where  it  is  eaten  by  the 
cattle  the  same  as  grass.  It  will  endure  the  severity  of  our 
winters,  and  produce  its  buds,  when  the  weather  gets  mild ; 
but  as  garden  products  are  generally  scarce  after  a  hard 


ASPARAGUS.  35 

winter,  the  gardener  who  studies  his  interest  will  make  the 
most  of  the  spring  season,  and  raise  all  he  can  before  ths 
market  becomes  glutted ;  to  this  end,  he  is  recommended  to 
prepare  for  forcing  this  vegetable,  as  soon  as  the  coldest  of 
the  winter  is  past.  (See  article  on  Forcing  Vegetables.) 

Asparagus  may  be  raised  by  sowing  .he  seed  in  the  fall 
as  soon  as  ripe,  or  in  March  and  the  early  part  of  April. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  a  thousand  plants.  It 
requires  some  of  the  best  ground  in  the  garden.  The  seed 
may  be  sown  in  drills,  ten  or  twelve  inches  asunder,  and 
covered  about  an  inch  with  light  earth.  When  the  plants 
are  up,  they  will  need  a  careful  hoeing,  and  if  well  culti- 
vated, and  kept  free  from  weeds,  they  will  be  large  enough 
to  transplant  when  they  are  a  year  old.  Some  keep  them  in 
the  nursery  bed  until  they  are  two  years  old. 

A  plantation  of  Asparagus,  if  the  beds  ar\e  properly  dressed 
every  year,  will  produce  good  buds  for  twenty  years  or  more. 

New  plantations  of  Asparagus  may  be  made  in  autumn, 
or  before  the  buds  get  far  advanced  in  spring,  say  in  Febru- 
ary, March,  or  April,  according  to  situation  and  circum- 
stances. The  ground  for  the  bed  must  not  be  wet,  nor  too 
strong  or  stubborn,  but  such  as  is  moderately  light  and  plia- 
ble, so  that  it  will  readily  fall  to  pieces  in  digging  or  raking, 
and  in  a  situation  that  enjoys  the  full  rays  of  the  sun.  It 
should  have  a  large  supply  of  well  rotted  dung,  three  or  four 
inches  thick,  and  then  be  regularly  trenched  two  spades 
deep,  and  the  dung  buried  equally  in  each  trench  twelve  or 
fifteen  inches  below  the  surface.  When  this  trenching  is 
done,  lay  two  or  three  inches  of  thoroughly  rotted  manure 
over  the  whole  surface,  and  dig  the  ground  over  again  eight 
or  ten  inches  deep,  mixing  this  top  dressing,  and  incorpo- 
rating it  well  with  the  earth. 

In  family  gardens,  it  is  customary  to  divide  the  ground 
thus  prepared  into  beds,  allowing  four  feet  for  every  four 
rows  of  plants,  with  alleys  two  feet  and  a  half  wide  between 
each  bed.  Strain  your  line  along  the  bed  six  inches  from 


36  A&l'ARAGUS. 

the  edge ;  then,  with  a  spade,  cut  out  a  small  trench  or  drill 
close  to  the  line,  about  six  inches  deep,  making  that  side 
next  the  line  nearly  upright ;  when  one  trench  is  opened, 
plant  that  before  you  open  another,  placing  the  plants  upright 
ten  or  twelve  inches  distant  in  the  row,  and  let  every  row 
be  twelve  inches  apart. 

The  plants  must  not  be  placed  flat  in  the  bottom  of  the 
trench,  but  nearly  upright  against  the  back  of  it,  and  so  that 
the  crown  of  the  plants  may  also  stand  upright,  and  two  or 
three  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  spreading  their 
roots,  somewhat  regularly  against  the  back  of  the  trench,  and 
at  the  same  time  drawing  a  little  earth  up  against  them  with 
the  hand  as  you  place  them,  just  to  fix  the  plants  in  their  due 
position  until  the  row  is  planted ;  when  one  row  is  thus 
placed,  with  a  rake  or  hoe  draw  the  earth  into  the  trench 
over  the  plants,  and  then  proceed  to  open  another  drill  or 
trench,  as  before  directed ;  and  fill  and  cover  it  in  the  same 
manner,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  is  planted ;  then  let  the  sur- 
face of  the  beds  be  raked  smooth  and  clear  from  stones,  &c. 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  have  extra  large  heads, 
place  their  plants  sixteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  instead  of 
twelve ;  and  by  planting  them  in  the  quincunx  manner,  that 
is,  by  commencing  the  second  row  eight  inches  from  the  end 
of  the  first,  and  the  fourth  even  with  the  second,  the  plants 
will  form  rhomboidal  squares,  instead  of  rectangular  ones, 
and  every  plant  will  thus  have  room  to  expand  its  roots  and 
leaves  luxuriantly.* 


*  The  above  directions  are  intended  for  famUy  gardens.  Those  who 
may  wish  to  raise  Asparagus  in  large  quantities  for  market,  should'prepare 
the  ground  with  a  plough,  and  plant  two  rows  in  each  bed,  which  may  be 
carried  to  any  length  required.  If  several  beds  are  wanted,  they  may  be 
planted  in  single  rows  four  or  five  feet  apart,  in  order  that  the  plough  may 
be  worked  freely  between  them.  Frequent  ploughing  will  cause  the  roots 
to  spread,  so  as  to  widen  the  beds,  and  the  winter  dressing  may  be  per- 
formed in  a  great  measure  with  the  plough.  After  the  Asparagus  is  cut, 
the  ground  between  the  beds  may  be  ploughed,  and  planted  with  Cabbage, 
Potatoes,  or  any  other  vegetable  usually  cultivated  in  rows 


ASPARAGUS.  37 

WINTER  DRESSING  OF  ASPARAGUS  BEDS. 

About  the  beginning  of  November,  if  the  stalks  of  Aspar- 
agus turn  yellow,  which  is  a  sign  of  their  having  finished 
their  growth  for  the  season,  cut  them  down  close  to  the 
earth,  carry  them  off  the  ground,  and  clear  the  beds  care- 
fully from  weeds. 

Asparagus  beds  must  have  an  annual  dressing  of  good 
manure ;  let  it  be  laid  equally  over  the  beds,  two  or  three 
inches  thick,  after  which,  with  a  fork  made  for  the  purpose, 
(which  should  have  three  flat  tines,)  dig  in  the  dung  quite 
down  to  the  crowns  of  the  plants,  by  which  means  the  roots 
will  be  greatly  benefited  ;  as  the  winter  rains  will  wash  the 
manure  down  among  them.  It  is  the  practice  with  some 
gardeners  to  dig  the  alleys  at  every  autumn  dressing,  and 
cover  the  beds  with  the  soil  taken  out ;  this  may  be  done  for 
the  first  two  years  after  the  beds  are  made,  but  not  afterward  ; 
as,  when  the  plants  are  in  full  growth,  their  roots  and  crowns 
extend  into  the  alleys,  and  digging  them  up  frequently  de- 
stroys plants,  or  renders  them  too  weak  to  produce  buds  in 
perfection.  The  beds  will  be  greatly  benefited  if  covered 
to  the  depth  of  several  inches  with  leaves,  sea-weed,  or  long 
litter  from  the  livery  stables. 

The  seedling  Asparagus  should  also  have  a  slight  dressing, 
that  is,  clear  the  bed  from  weeds,  and  then  spread  light  dung 
over  it,  to  the  depth  of  one  or  two  inches,  to  defend  the 
crown  of  the  plants  from  frost. 

SPRING  DRESSING  OF  THE   BEDS. 

This  work  should  be  done  from  about  the  latter  end  of 
March  to  the  middle  pf  April,  or  just  before  the  buds  begin 
to  rise.  After  clearing  away  all  long  litter,  or  whatever  may 
encumber  the  ground,  spread  the  short  dung  over  the  whole 
surface,  and  dig  it  in  :  if  the  alleys  be  dug  at  the  same  time, 
it  will  be  very  beneficial  to  the  plants.  Care  must  be  taken 
at  this  season  not  to  wound  the  crowns  with  the  tines  of  the 
fork,  but  forking  the  beds  should  not  be  neglected,  as  admit- 


38  ASPARAGUS. 

ting  the  sun  and  rain  into  the  ground,  induces  the  plants  to 
throw  up  buds  of  superior  size  ;  to  promote  such  a  desirable 
object,  the  ground  should  be  kept  clear  of  weeds  at  all  sea- 
sons, as  these  greatly  impoverish  the  soil,  and  frequently 
smother  the  plants. 


The  gardeners  of  England  raise  Asparagus  in  great  per- 
fection, and  sometimes  have  buds  weighing  from  three  to 
five  ounces  each.  Loudon  says,  in  his  Encyclopaedia  of 
Gardening,  that  one  grower  alone  has  eighty  acres  entirely 
under  this  crop  for  the  London  market. 

Asparagus  plants  will  not  produce  buds  large  enough  to 
cut  for  general  use,  in  less  than  three  years  from  the  time  of 
planting,  but  in  the  fourth  year,  when  the  shoots  are  three 
or  four  inches  high,  they  will  bear  extensive  cutting,  which 
should,  however,  be  discontinued  when  no  large  buds  are 
thrown  up.  The  best  way  of  cutting  is  to  slip  the  knife 
down  perpendicularly  close  to  each  shoot,  and  cut  it  off  slan- 
tingly, about  three  or  four  inches  beneath  the  ground,  taking 
care  not  to  wound  any  young  buds  proceeding  from  the 
same  root,  for  there  are  always  several  shoots  advancing  in 
different  stages  of  growth. 

Asparagus  is  considered  a  wholesome  vegetable,  and 
should  not  be  kept  long  after  it  is  gathered ;  after  being  well 
washed,  it  may  be  tied  in  bundles  of  about  a  dozen  buds 
each,  and  boiled  in  water  slightly  seasoned  with  salt,  until 
tender,  which  will  be  in  about  twenty  minutes ;  take  it  up 
before  it  loses  its  true  colour  and  flavour,  and  serve  it  up  on 
toasted  bread,  with  melted  butter,  &c. 


BEANS.  39 

BEANS.    (English  Dwarfs.) 
FEVE  DE  MARAIS.     Vicia  faba, 

^         VARIETIES. 


Early  Mazagan. 
Early  Lisbon. 
Early  Long  Pod. 
Large  Windsor. 
Large  Toker. 
Broad  Spanish. 


Sandwich  Bean. 
Green  Genoa. 
Dwarf  Cluster. 
White  Blossom. 
Green  Nonpareil. 
Sword  Long  Pod. 


THE  principal  cause  of  these  garden  Beans  not  succeed- 
ing well  in  this  country,  is  the  summer  heat  overtaking  them 
before  they  are  podded,  which  causes  the  blossom  to  drop 
off  prematurely ;  to  obviate  this  difficulty,  they  should  be 
planted  as  early  in  the  year  as  possible ;  as  recommended 
in  the  article,  "  Forwarding  Broad  Beans."  They  are 
generally  planted  in  England,  from  October  to  April,  for 
early  crops,  and  from  that  time  to  July,  for  late  crops.  It 
sometimes  happens  that  autumn  plantings  are  injured  by  the 
coldness  of  their  winters,  but  an  average  crop  is  generally 
obtained. 

In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  if  a  few  of 
the  best  varieties  of  these  Beans  be  planted  in  the  open 
ground,  as  soon  in  the  season  as  it  can  be  brought  into  good 
condition,  they  will  come  into  bearing  in  regular  succession, 
according  to  their  different  degrees  of  earliness,  and  plant- 
ings may  be  repeated  every  ten  days  of  the  first  spring 
month  ;  but  it  is  only  from  those  that  are  planted  early  that 
any  tolerable  produce  can  be  expected,  as  they  become  defi- 
cient in  quality,  as  well  as  in  quantity,  on  the  approach  of 
extreme  warm  weather. 

In  the  Southern  States  they  may  be  planted  in  succession 
throughout  the  autumn  and  winter  months,  which  will  cause 
them  to  bear  early  in  the  ensuing  season. 

The  best  mode  of  planting  is  in  drills,  drawn  two  inches 
deep,  in  which  the  seed  Beans  may  be  dropped  two  or  throe 


40  BEANS. 

inches  apart,  according  to  their  size,  and  the  drills  may  be 
from  two  to  three  feet  asunder.  A  strong  clayey  soil  is  the 
most  suitable ;  but  they  often  do  well  in  moderately  light 
ground,  provided  it  be  well  trodden,  or  rolled,  after  the 
Beans  are  planted. 

As  soon  as  the  Beans  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
will  need  a  careful  hoeing ;  and  .if  some  earth  be  drawn  up 
to  their  stems,  three  or  four  times  in  the  course  of  their 
growth,  it  will  greatly  refresh  and  strengthen  them. 

When  they  arrive  at  full  bloom,  and  the  lower  pods  begin 
to  set,  the  tops  may  be  broken  off.  If  this  be  done  at  the 
proper  time,  it  will  promote  the  swelling  of  the  pods,  as 
well  as  their  early  maturity  ;  for  having  no  advancing  tops 
to  nourish,  the  whole  effort  of  the  root  will  go  to  the  support 
of  the  fruit. 

Broad  Beans  are  particularly  subject  to  green  bugs.  To- 
bacco water,  or  salt  water,  will  sometimes  destroy  them  , 
but  the  most  certain  way  is  to  watch  their  first  appearance, 
and  pick  off  that  part  on  which  they  first  settle,  and  burn  it ; 
or  if  such  plants  be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground,  they  will 
produce  fresh  shoots,  which  may  bear  a  good  crop. 

One  quart  of 'seed  Beans  will  be  required  for  every  sixty 
feet  of  row,  allowing  the  smallest  sorts  to  be  planted  about 
two  inches  apart,  and  the  largest  four  inches. 

The  beans  should  be  gathered  young,  and  shelled  while 
fresh.  After  having  been  washed,  let  them  be  boiled  in 
plenty  of  water  with  a  little  salt  and  a  bunch  of  green  parsley. 
They  take  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  to  boil,  according  to 
age,  and  may  be  served  up  with  melted  butter,  gravy,  &c. ; 
but  they  are  very  good  when  cooked  and  eaten  with  fat  pork, 
or  good  old-fashioned  Hampshire  bacon 


BEANS.  41 

BEANS.    (Kidney  Dwarfs.) 
HARICOT.     Phaseohis  vulgaris,  etc. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Denmark. 

Early  Mohawk. 

Early  Valentine. 

Early  Yellow  Six  Weeks. 

Early  Dun-coloured,  or  Quaker. 

Early  Chini  Dwarf. 

Early  Rachel,  or  Quail's  Head. 

Early  Rob  Roy. 


Early  Black  Dwarf. 

Large  White  Kidney  Dwarf. 

White  Cranberry  Dwarf. 

Red  Cranberry  Dwarf. 

Yellow  Cranberry  Dwarf. 

Refugee,  or  Thousand  to  One. 

Marble  Swiss  Bean. 

Royal  Dwarf  Kidney,  or  French. 


THESE  varieties  of  Beans,  being  natives  of  India,  South 
America,  and  other  warm  climates,  will  not  endure  the  least 
cold,  and  it  is  therefore  always  hazardous  to  plant  them  in 
the  open  ground  until  settled  warm  weather.  The  earliest 
varieties,  if  planted  toward  the  end  of  April  or  the  first  week 
in  May,  will  come  to  perfection  in  from  six  to  eight  weeks 
after  planting.  Some  of  the  later  varieties  will  keep  longer 
in  bearing,  and  are  esteemed  by  some  on  that  account. 
These,  with  some  of  the  early  varieties,  may  be  planted  in 
the  months  of  May  and  June ;  and  if  a  regular  succession 
of  young  beans  be  required  throughout  the  summer,  some 
of  the  varieties  should  be  planted  every  two  weeks,  fron^the 
last  week  in  April  until  the  beginning  of  August.* 

These  Beans  require  a  light,  rich  soil,  in  which  they  should 
be  planted  in  hills,  three  or  four  in  a  hill,  or  drills  about  two 
inches  deep,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three  inches  from  each 
other ;  the  drills  may  be  from  two  to  three  feet  apart.  The 
Refugees  do  best  when  planted  in  hills.  As  the  Beans  pro- 
gress in  growth,  let  them  be  carefully  hoed,  drawing  some 

*  Some  gardeners,  anxious  to  have  Beans  early,  are  apt  to  begin  plantirtg 
too  soon  in  the  season,  and  very  frequently  lose  their  first  crops.  It  should 
be  recollected,  that  these  Beans  are  next  to  Cucumbers  and  Melons  as  re- 
gards tenderness,  and  will  always  grow  quicker  and  yield  better,  if  the 
planting  be  delayed  until  settled  warm  weather.  The  Early  Mohawk  is 
the  hardiest,  and  may  sometimes  succeed  well,  if  planted  about  the  middle 
of  April,  but  it  is  much  safer  to  delay  the  planting  of  any  quantity  until 
towards  .he  end  of  the  month. 

4* 


42  BEANS. 

earth  up  to  their  stems  at  the  same  time,  which  will  cause 
them  soon  to  be  fit  for  the  table. 

One  quart  of  Kidney  Beans  will  plant  from  three  hundred 
and  fifty  to  four  hundred  hills,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
Beans,  allowing  four  Beans  to  each  hill,  or  from  two  hundred 
and  thirty  to  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  of  row,  allowing 
six  Beans  to  every  foot. 

These  Beans  should  not  be  suffered  to  get  old  and  tough 
before  they  are  gathered ;  be  careful  in  trimming  them,  to 
strip  off  the  strings.  To  effect  this  desirable  object,  break 
them  across ;  and,  in  order  to  preserve  their  greenness,  soak 
them  in  salted  water  for  a  short  time,  then  put  them  into  the 
water  while  boiling,  which  should  be  previously  seasoned 
with  salt.  When  they  are  tender,  which  will  be  in  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  minutes,  take  them  up  and  drain  them  through 
a  collander,  in  order  to  render  them  capable  of  absorbing  a 
due  share  of  gravy,  melted  butter,  &c. 


BEANS.     (Pole  or  Running.) 
HARICOTS  A  RAMES. 

Phctseolus    Limensis. 

VARIETIES. 

Large  White  Lima.  I  Speckled  Lima 

Phaseolus  JVLultiflorus 

VARIETIES. 


Scarlet  Runners. 
White  Dutch  Runners. 
Dutch  Case  Knife,  or  Princess. 
Asparagus,  or  Yard  Long. 


London  HorticulturaL 
French  Bicolour. 
Red  Cranberry. 
White  Cranberry. 


THESE  species  and  varieties  of  Beans  may  be  planted 
early  in  the  month  of  May  and  in  June,  either  in  hills  three 
feet  distant  from  each  other,  or  in  drills  about  two  inches 
deep,  and  the  Beans  two  or  three  inches  apart  in  the  drills. 


BE.VNS.  43 

The  poles  should  be  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  and  may  be  fixed 
in  the  ground  before  the  Beans  are  planted. 

The  varieties  of  Lima  Beans  should  not  be  planted  in  the 
open  groumd  until  the  second  week  in  May,  unless  the  sea- 
son be  very  favourable,  and  the  ground  warm.  As  these 
Beans  are  apt  to  get  rotten  by  cold  and  damp  weather,  let 
six  or  eight  be  planted  half  an  inch  deep  round  each  pole, 
and  afterward  thinned,  leaving  three  or  four  good  plants  in 
a  hill,  which  hills  should  be  full  four  feet  distant  from  each 
other  every  way. 

The  soil  for  Running  Beans  should  be  the  same  as  for 
Dwarfs,  except  the  Lima,  which  require  richer  ground  than 
any  of  the  other  sorts.  A  shovelful  of  rich  light  compost, 
mixed  with  the  earth  in  each  hill,  would  be  beneficial. 

If  any  varieties  are  wanted  before  the  ordinary  seasons, 
they  may  be  planted  in  flower-pots,  in  April,  and  placed  in 
a  greenhouse  or  garden  frame,  and  being  transplanted  in 
May,  with  the  balls  of  eaith  entire,  will  come  into  bearing  ten 
or  fourteen  days  earlier  than  those  which,  in  the  first  instance, 
are  planted  in  the  open  ground. 

It  will  require  about  a  quart  of  Lima  Beans  to  plant  one 
hundred  hills.  A  quart  of  the  smallest-sized  Pole  Beans  will 
plant  three  hundred  hills  and  upward,  or  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  of  row,  and  the  largest  runners  will  go  about 
as  far  as  the  Lima  Beans. 

Lima  Beans  should  be  shelled  while  fresh,  and  boiled  in 
plenty  of  water  until  tender,  which  generally  takes  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  minutes.  The  mode  of  cooking  and  prepar- 
ing the  other  sorts,  is  the  same  as  for  Kidney  Dwarfs. 


44  BEET. 


BEET. 

BETTERAVE.     Beta  mdgaris. 
VARIETIES. 


Early  Blood  Turnip-rooted. 
Early  Long  Blood. 
Extra  Dark  Blood. 
Yellow  Turnip-rooted. 


Early  Scarcity. 
Mangel  Wurtzel. 
French  Sugar,  or  Silesia. 
Sir  John  Sinclair's. 


BEETS,  in  their  several  varieties,  are  biennial,  and  the  best 
blood-coloured  are  much  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  their 
roots,  which  are  excellent  when  cooked,  and  very  suitable 
for  pickling  after  being  boiled  tender ;  they  also,  when  sliced, 
make  a  beautiful  garnish  for  the  dish,  and  the  young  plants 
are  an  excellent  substitute  for  Spinach. 

The  Mangel  Wurtzel  and  Sugar  Beets  are  cultivated  for 
cattle.  Domestic  animals  eat  the  leaves  and  roots  with  great 
avidity.  They  are  excellent  food  for  swine,  and  also  for 
milch  cows ;  and  possess  the  quality  of  making  them  give  a 
large  quantity  of  the  best-flavoured  milk.  The  roots  are 
equally  fit  for  oxen  and  horses,  after  being  cut  up  into  small 
pieces  and  mixed  with  cut  straw,  hay,  or  other  dry  feed.* 

A  small  bed  of  the  earliest  Turnip-rooted,  and  other  es- 
teemed kinds  of  Beets,  may  be  planted  in  good  rich  early 
ground  the  first  week  in  April,  which,  being  well  attended 
to,  will  produce  good  roots  in  June. 

Draw  drills  a  foot  apart,  and  from  one  to  two  inches  deep  ; 
drop  the  seed  along  the  drills  one  or  two  inches  from  each 

*  An  acre  of  good,  rich,  loamy  soil  has  been  known  to  yield  two  thou- 
sand bushels  of  beet-roots,  some  of  which  weighed  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
pounds  each.  To  produce  such  enormously  large  roots,  they  should  be 
cultivated  in  drills  from  two  to  three  feet  apart,  and  the  plants  thinned  to 
ten  or  twelve  Inches  in  the  rows.  It  is  generally  conceded,  however,  that 
moderate-sized  roots  contain  more  saccharine  matter,  in  proportion  to  their 
bulk,  than  extra  large  roots,  and  that  twenty  tons,  or  about  seven  hundred 
bushels,  are  a  very  profitable  crop  for  an  acre  of  land,  and  would  be  amply 
sufficient  to  feed  ten  cows  for  three  or  four  months  of  the  year.  A  gen- 
tleman in  Connecticut  computes  the  products  of  one-fourth  of  an  acre  of 
good  land,  at  eight  tons,  which,  he  says,  will  support  a  cow  the  whole 
year.  He  allows  five  tons  to  feed  on  for  nine  months,  and  the  other  three 
tons  to  be  sold,  and  the  proceeds  applied  to  the  purchase  of  other  food,  to 
be  given  from  the  time  the  roots  fail  in  the  spring,  until  new  roots  are 
produced. 


BEET.  4«5 

other,  and  cover  them  with  earth.  When  the  plants  are  up 
strong,  thin  them  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from 
each  other  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  afterward 
hoed  deep  round  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds. 

If  the  planting  of  Beet  seed,  for  general  crops,  be  delayed 
until  May  or  June,  the  roots  will  be  much  larger  and  better 
than  those  from  earlier  planting,  which,  from  being  frequently 
stunted  in  growth  by  the  various  changes  of  weather,  become 
tough,  stringy,  and  of  unhandsome  shape.  In  case  of  the 
failure  of  crops,  or  of  unfavourable  weather  in  June,  Beet 
seed  planted  the  first  week  in  July  will  sometimes  produce 
large,  handsome  roots,  which  may  be  preserved  for  winter  use. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  Beets  is  that  which  has  been 
well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  requires  no  fresh  ma- 
nure, provided  it  be  well  pulverized.  * 

It  is  always  best  to  thin  Beets  while  young.  If  the  tops 
are  used  as  a  vegetable,  they  should  not  be  left  too  long  for 
this  purpose,  or  they  will  greatly  injure  the  roots  of  those 
that  are  to  stand.  Beds  that  are  to  stand  through  the  sum- 
mer, should  be  kept  clean  by  repeated  hoeings  ;  and  the  roots 
intended  for  winter  use  should  be  taken  up  in  October,  or 
early  in  November,  and  stowed  away,  as  directed  in  the 
calendar  for  those  months. 

Allowing  Beet  seed  to  be  planted  on  the  gardening  plan, 
it  will  require  at  the  rate  of  ten  pounds  for  an  acre  of  land, 
which  is  two  pounds  and  a  half  for  a  rood,  and  one  ounce 
for  every  perch,  pole,  or  rod.  If  cultivated  on  the  field  sys- 
tem, that  is,  by  planting  them  a  sufficient  distance  apart  to 
admit  of  ploughing  between  each  row,  one  half  the  quantity 
of  seed  will  be  sufficient,  or  even  less,  if  sown  regular.  If 
it  be  an  object  with  the  cultivator  to  save  his  seed,  he  may 
drop  some  in  each  spot  where  a  plant  is  required,  and  thin 
them  as  before  directed. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  add,  that  one  pound  of  Beet  seed 
will  measure  about  two  quarts,  and  as  each  capsule  contains 
four  or  five  small  seed,  thinning  out  the  surplus  plants  is  in- 
dispensable to  the  production  of  good  roots. 


46  BORECOLE,    OR  KALE. 

BORECOLE,  OR  KALE. 
CHOU  FRISE  VERT.     Brassica  oleracea,  etc. 

VARIETIES. 


Green  Curled,  or  Scotch. 
Dwarf  Brown,  or  German. 
Purple  Fringed. 


Jerusalem,  or  Buda. 
Cesarean  Kale. 
Thousand-headed  Cabbage. 


THERE  are  several  sub-varieties  of  this  genus  of  plants 
besides  those  above  specified,  most  of  which  have  large  open 
heads,  with  curled  wrinkled  leaves.  The  Dwarf  Curled,  or 
Finely  Fringed  sorts,  are  much  cultivated  in  Europe  for  the 
table ;  and  the  coarse  and  tall-growing  are  considered  pro- 
fitable for  cattle.  The  Thousand-headed  Cabbage,  and  Ce- 
sarean Kale,  grow  from  three  to  five  feet  high,'  and  branch 
out.  from  the  stem,  yielding  an  abundant  supply  of  leaves 
and  sprouts  in  the  winter  and  spring. 

For  the  garden,  these  several  varieties  may  be  treated  in 
every  respect  as  Winter  Cabbage.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
from  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the  first  week  in  June,  and 
the  plants  set  out  in  the  month  of  July,  in  good  rich  ground. 
They  are  never  so  delicious  as  when  rendered  tender  by 
smart  frosts ;  they  are  valuable  plants  to  cultivate,  particu- 
larly in  the  more  Southerly  States,  as  they  will  there  be  in 
the  greatest  perfection  during  the  winter  months ;  they  will 
also,  if  planted  in  a  gravelly  soil,  and  in  a  sheltered  warm 
situation,  bear  the  winter  of  the  Western  States ;  and  may 
be  kept  in  great  perfection  in  the  Eastern  States,  if  taken 
up  before  the  frost  sets  in  with  much  severity,  and  placed  in 
trenches,  up  to  their  lower  leaves,  and  then  covered  with 
straw  or  other  light  covering :  the  heads  may  be  cut  off 
as  they  are  required  for  use ;  and  in  the  spring,  the  stems 
being  raised  up,  will  produce  an  abundance  of  delicious 
greens. 

One  ounce  of  good  Borecole  seed  will  produce  about  four 
thousand  plants,  and  may  be  sown  in  a  border  four  feet  by 
ten,  or  thereabout. 


BRUSSELS    SPROUTS.  47 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS. 
CHOU  DE  BRUXELLES  AGETS.      Brassica  oleracea. 

THIS  plant  frequently  grows  from  three  to  five  feet  high, 
and  produces  from  the  stem  small  heads  resembling  cabbages 
in  miniature,  each  being  from  one  to  two  inches  in  diameter. 
The  top  of  the  plant  resembles  the  Savoy,  when  planted  late. 
The  sprouts  are  used  as  winter  greens,  and  they  become 
very  tender  when  touched  by  the  frost. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  May,  in  the 
same  manner  as  Borecole,  and  the  plants  set  out  with  a  dib- 
ble early  in  July.  The  subsequent  treatment  must  be  in 
every  respect  as  for  Borecole. 

Some  gardeners,  with  a  view  to  furnish  the  New-York 
markets  with  greens  early  in  the  epring  season,  when  vege- 
tables in  general  are  scarce,  cultivate  the  common  Rape, 
(Brassica  Rapus ;)  it  being  a  good  substitute  for  Brussels 
Sprouts,  which  are  not  always  attainable  after  a  hard  winter. 
If  Rape  seed  be  sown  early  in  September,  the  plants  will 
survive  an  ordinary  winter,  and  produce  top  shoots  or  sprouts 
early ;  but  it  is  best  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  suscepti- 
ble of  cultivation  in  the  spring,  say  the  last  week  in  March. 
The  sprouts  should  be  cut  while  young,  as  such  greens  then 
command  the  best  prices,  and  are  more  palatable  than  when 
far  advanced  in  growth. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  add  that,  in  cooking  these  sprouts, 
as  also  Kale,  Colewort,  and  greens  in  general,  they  should 
be  put  into  hot  water,  seasoned  with  salt,  and  kept  boiling 
briskly  until  tender.  If  it  be  an  object  to  preserve  their 
natural  colour,  put  a  small  lump  of  pearlash  into  the  water, 
which  also  makes  the  coarser  kinds  of  cabbage  more  tender 
in  the  absence  of  meat. 


48  BROCCOLI. 

BROCCOLI. 
CHOU  BROCOLI,     Brassica  oleracea  Italica. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  White. 
Early  Dwarf  Purple. 
Early  Green. 
Dwarf  Brown. 
Large  Late  Purple. 


Large  Purple  Cape. 
White  Cape,  or  Cauliflower. 
Sulphur-coloured  Cape. 
Branching  Purple. 
Large  Late  Green. 


THE  several  varieties  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  may  be 
justly  ranked  among  the  greatest  luxuries  of  the  garden. 
They  need  only  be  known  in  order  to  be  esteemed.  The 
Broccoli  produces  heads,  consisting  of  a  lump  of  rich,  seedy 
pulp  like  the  Cauliflower,  only  that  some  are  of  a  green 
colour,  some  purple,  some  brown,  &c.,  and  the  white  kinds 
so  exactly  resemble  the  true  Cauliflower,  as  to  be  scarcely 
distinguishable,  either  in  colour  or  taste. 

Broccoli  is  quite  plentiful  throughout  England  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  and  it  is  raised  with  as  little  trouble  as 
Cabbages  are  here.  The  mode  of  raising  the  purple  Cape 
Broccoli  is  now  generally  understood  in  this  part  of  America ; 
but  the  cultivation  of  the  other  kinds  has  been  nearly  aban- 
doned, on  account  of  the  ill  success  attending  former  attempts 
to  bring  them  to  perfection. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States,  where  the  winters  are  not 
more  severe  than  in  England,  they  will  stand  in  the  open 
ground,  and  continue  to  produce  their  fine  heads  from  No- 
vember to  April.  In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle 
States,  if  the  seed  of  the  late  kinds  be  sown  in  April,  and 
the  earlier  kinds  in  May,  in  the  open  ground,  and  treated 
in  the  same  manner  as  Cauliflower,  it  would  be  the  most 
certain  method  of  obtaining  large  and  early  flowers ;  but  as 
only  a  part  of  these  crops  can  be  expected  to  come  to  per- 
fection before  the  approach  of  winter,  the  remainder  will 
have  to  be  taken  up,  laid  in  by  the  roots,  and  covered  up 
with  earth  to  the  lower  leaves,  in  some  sheltered  situation, 
to  promote  the  finishing  of  their  growth. 


KROCCOLI.. 


49 


Those  who  are  desirous  of  obtaining  Broccoli  and  Cauli- 
flower in  any  quantity,  so  as  to  have  all  the  different  varietiea 
in  succession  throughout  the  winter  months,  should  have 
places  erected  similar  to  some  of  our  greenhouses  :  the  back 
and  roof  may  be  made  of  refuse  lumber,  which  being  after- 
ward covered  with  fresh  stable  dung,  will  keep  out  the  frost. 
The  place  allotted  for  Cape  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower  should 
have  a  glazed  roof  to  face  the  south ;  the  sashes  must  be 
made  to  take  off  in  mild  weather,  but  they  should  be  always 
kept  shut  in  severe  cold  weather,  and  covered  with  mats,  or 
boards,  litter,  &c.,  so  effectually  as  to  keep  out  the  frost. 

The  hardy  kinds  of  Broccoli  may  be  preserved  without 
glass,  by  having  shutters  provided  to  slide  over  the  front  in 
extreme  cold  weather,  which  may  be  covered  over  with  fresh 
stable  dung  or  other  litter.  If  these  plants  get  frozen,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  shade  them  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun 
until  they  are  thawed ;  this  may  be  done  by  shaking  a  little 
straw  on  the  bed  as  they  lay.  ** 

It  may  not,  perhaps,  be  generally  understood,  that  the  sud- 
den transition  from  cold  to  heat  is  more  destructive  to  vege- 
tables than  the  cold  itself.  If  plants  of  any  kind  get  frozen, 
and  cannot  be  screened  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun,  they 
should  be  well  watered  as  the  air  gets  warm,  and  before  they 
begin  to  thaw  ;  this  will  draw  out  the  frost,  and  may  be  the 
means  of  saving  the  plants. 

The  proper  time  for  sowing  the  seed  of  Purple  Cape 
Broccoli  is  from  the  tenth  to  the  twenty-fourth  of  May :  * 
those  who  intend  to  provide  a  place  for  the  winter  keeping 

*  It  has  been  proved  by  repeated  experiments,  that  the  Purple  Cape 
Broccoli  succeeds  better  in  our  climate  than  any  other  variety,  and,  also, 
that  if  Broccoli  or  Cauliflower  plants  be  retarded  in  growth  by  extreme 
heat,  they  seldom  arrive  at  full  perfection.  .It  is,  therefore,  important  that 
the  time  of  sowing  the  seed  of  Cape  Broccoli  be  so  regulated  as  to  allow, 
Bay  six  weeks  of  the  summer,  for  the  plants  to  grow  in,  previous  to  their 
being  transplanted,  and  about  seven  or  eight  weeks  between  that  and  the 
commencement  of  cool  autumn  weather,  which  is  essential  to  mature  them. 

If  seed  be  sown  much  before  the  middle  of  May,  or  so  early  that  the 
plants  arrive  at  full  growth  in  the  heat  of  summer,  and  thereby  become 

5 


50  BROCCOLI. 

of  the  other  kinds,  may  sow  seed  of  the  most  esteemed  varie- 
ties at  the  same  time,  or  in  two  or  three  separate  sowings,  a 
week  apart. 

In  order  to  insure  good  stout  plants,  let  the  seed  at  this 
season  be  sown  in  a  moderately  shaded  border.  It  is  best 
to  sow  it  in  shallow  drills,  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apart, 
in  which  case,  one  ounce  of  seed  will  occupy  a  border  of 
about  four  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and  produce 
about  four  thousand  strong  plants.  (See  article  Cabbage.) 

In  the  beginning  of  July,  or  when  the  plants  are  of  suffi- 
cient size,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  extraordinarily  rich 
ground,  which  should  be  previously  brought  into  good  con- 
dition. This  being  done,  plant  them  in  rows  two  feet  and  a 
half  apart,  and  two  feet  distant  in  the  rows.  As  soon  as 
they  have  taken  root,  give  the  ground  a  deep  hoeing,  and 
repeat  this  two  or  three  times  in  the  course  of  their  growth, 
drawing  some  earth  around  their  stems. 

Some  of  the  Cape  Broccoli,  if  attended  to  as  directed, 
will  come  to  perfection  early  in  September  and  in  October ; 
the  other  kinds  will  produce  their  heads  in  regular  succes- 
sion throughout  the  winter  and  spring  months,  according  to 
their  different  degrees  of  earliness,  provided  an  artificial  cli- 
mate be  provided  for  them.  These,  of  course,  with  what- 
ever may  remain  of  the  Cape  Broccoli,  will  have  to  be  taken 
up  early  in  October,  and  laid  in  carefully,  with  the  roots  and 
stems  covered  with  earth  as  far  as  their  lower  leaves.  Those 
who  have  not  a  place  provided,  may  keep  a  few  in  frames, 
or  in  a  light  cellar ;  but  every  gardener  and  country  gentle- 
man should  have  suitable  places  erected  for  a  vegetable  that 
yields  such  a  delicious  repast,  at  a  time  when  other  luxuries 
of  the  garden  are  comparatively  out  of  our  reach. 

stunted,  they  generally  button,  instead  of  forming  perfect  heads  of  flowers, 
and  are  consequently  of  no  use  but  for  cattle. 

In  some  of  the  Southern  States,  late  planting  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower 
succeeds  better  than  early,  because  the  winters  are  calculated  to  mature 
these  vegetables,  from  their  not  being  subject  to  injury  from  slight  frost,  in 
a  late  stage  of  their  growth. 


CAULIFLOWER.  51 

CAULIFLOWER. 
CHOUPLEUR.     Brassica  oleracea  botrytis. 

VARIETIES. 

Early  White.  I  Late  White. 

Hardy  Red,  or  Purple  Cauliflower. 

THIS  is  a  first  rate  vegetable,  to  obtain  which,  great  pains 
must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  its  growth,  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold  being  very  much  against  it :  which  circum- 
stance accounts  for  good  Cauliflowers  being  scarcely  attain- 
able in  unpropitious  seasons,  and  which  the  novice  falsely 
attributes  to  defectiveness  of  the  seed. 

To  produce  early  Cauliflower,  the  seed  should  be  sown  be- 
tween the  sixteenth  and  twenty-fourth  of  September,  in  a 
bed  of  clean,  rich  earth.  In  about  four  or  five  weeks  after- 
ward, the  plants  should  be  pricked  out  into  another  bed,  at 
the  distance  of  four  inches  from  each  other  every  way ;  this 
bed  should  be  encompassed  with  garden  frames,  covered 
with  glazed  sashes,  and  boards  or  shutters ;  the  plants  should 
be  watered  and  shaded  a  few  days  till  they  have  taken  root ; 
they  will  afterward  require  light  and  air  every  mild  day 
throughout  the  winter;  but  the  outsides  of  the  frames  musl. 
be  so  lined  and  secured,  and  the  tops  of  the  beds  so  covered, 
as  to  keep  out  all  frost. 

The  plants  should  be  well  attended  to  until  the  time  of 
transplanting  in  the  spring ;  and  those  who  have  not  hand  or 
bell  glasses,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  set  some  out  by  the  latter 
end  of  March,  should  have  a  frame  ready  about  the  last  week 
in  February,  in  order  that  they  may  be  transplanted  to  the 
distance  of  eight  or  nine  inches  apart ;  this  would  prevent 
them  from  buttoning  or  growing  up  weak ;  if  this  be  not 
done,  some  of  the  strongest  plants  should  be  taken  out  of  the 
beds  and  planted  in  flower  pots,  which  may  afterward  be 
placed  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse,  until  the  weather  be  warm 
and  settled,  which  may  be  expected  soon  after  the  middle  of 


52  CAULIFLOWER. 

April.  They  should  then  be  turned  out  with  the  balls  of 
earth  entire,  and  transplanted  into  a  bed  of  the  richest  earth 
in  the  garden,  at  the  distance  of  two  feet  and  a  half  from 
each  other  every  way;  the  residue  may  be  taken  up  from  the 
frame  the  last  week  in  April,  or  earlier,  if  the  season  proves 
mild,  by  means  of  a  garden  trowel,  and  transplanted  as 
above.* 

The  plants  should  afterward  be  well  cultivated,  by  hoeing 
the  ground  deep  around  them,  and  bringing  some  earth  grad- 
ually up  to  their  stem,  so  as  to  push  them  forward  before  the 
approach  of  warm  weather.  When  the  soil  has  been  drawn 
up  to  the  plants  some  little  time,  fork  the  ground  between  the 
rows  lightly  over,  which  will  promote  their  growth.  They 
should  be  liberally  supplied  with  water  in  dry  weather;  those 
out  of  flower  twice  a  week,  and  those  in,  every  other  day, 
which  will  contribute  to  their  producing  very  large  heads.  As 
the  flower  heads  appear,  the  larger  leaves  should  be  broken 
down  over  them,  to  defend  them  from  the  sun  and  rain,  in 
>rder  that  the  heads  or  pulps  may  be  close,  and  of  their  nat- 
ural colour. 

Plants  from  the  autumn  sowing  are  generally  allowed  to 
succeed  best ;  but  good  Cauliflowers  are  sometimes  produced 
from  seed  sown  in  a  hot-bed  toward  the  end  of  January,  or 
early  in  February.  Great  pains  must  be  taken  to  have  the 
bed  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed;  when  the  plants 
are  up,  they  must  have  air  every  mild  day,  and  as  they  pro- 


*  Many  persons  are  apt  to  forget,  that  the  successful  cultivation  of  Cau- 
liflower depends  on  the  particular  seasons  in  which  the  plants  are  raised 
and  set  out  ;  and,  consequently,  instead  of  raising  their  own  plants  in  the 
right  seasons,  apply  for  them  at  the  seed-stores  and  gardens,  in  May  and 
June.  Now,  it  should  he  recollected,  that  if  early  Cauliflower  do  not  ar- 
rive at,  or  near  perfection,  by  the  end  of  June,  the  plants  get  stunted  by 
the  heat,  and  seldom  yield  any  thing  but  leaves,  except  the  summer  should 
prove  mild,  in  which  rase,  some  of  the  early  plants  may  flower  in  autumn  ; 
but  it  is  needless  to  risk  the  setting  out  of  early  Cauliflower  plants  later 
than  April  for  the  sake  of  such  chance,  because  plants  raised  from  seed 
sown  about  the  middle  of  May,  and  transplanted  in  July,  are  by  far  the 
most  likely  to  produce  good  fall  Cauliflower 


CAULIFLOWER.  53 

gress  in  growth,  they  should  have  as  much  air  as  possible, 
consistent  with  their  preservation ;  but  the  beds  must  be  kept 
covered  up  every  night,  as  long  as  there  is  any  danger  of 
frost.  When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they 
must  be  pricked  out  three  or  four  inches  apart  into  another 
bed,  and  by  the  latter  end  of  April  they  may  be  transplanted 
into  the  ground,  and  treated  in  every  respect  the  same  as 
the  other. 

In  the  early  part  of  May,  Cauliflower  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  open  border,  in  drills,  as  recommended  for  Broccoli, 
and  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  four  thousand 
plants.  These  plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  June,  and 
transplanted  into  good  ground  early  in  July,  to  flower  in 
Autumn :  those  that  are  not  likely  to  flower  by  the  last  of 
October,  should  be  taken  up  and  provided  for  in  the  manner 
recommended  for  Broccoli. 

Cauliflower,  and  also  Broccoli,  should  be  gathered  while 
the  pulp  is  close  and  perfect.  After  having  trimmed  off  some 
of  the  outside  leaves,  let  them  be  boiled  in  plenty  of  water 
seasoned  with  salt,  taking  care  to  skim  it,  and  also  to  ease  the 
cover  of  the  pot  so  as  not  to  confine  the  steam.  Take  them 
up  as  soon  as  the  fork  will  enter  the  stems  easily,  which  will 
be  in  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  according  to  their  size 
and  age ;  drain  them  so  as  to  make  them  susceptible  of  ab- 
sorbing a  due  proportion  of  gravy,  melted  butter,  &c.  This 
renders  them  a  palatable  and  dainty  dish 


CABBAGE. 


CABBAGE. 
CHOU.     Brassica  oleracea,  etc. 


VARIETIES. 


Early 
Early 
Early 
Early 
Early 
Early 
Early 
Early 
Karly 


Imperial. 
Dwarf  Dutch. 
York. 
Sugarloaf. 
Emperor. 
Wellington. 
Heart-shaped. 
London  Market. 
London  Battersea. 


Large  Bergen,  or  American. 
Late  Flat  German. 
Large  Green  Glazed. 
Large  Late  Drumhead. 
Red  Dutch,  for  pickling. 
Green  Globe  Savoy. 
Large  Cape  Savoy. 
Green  Curled  Savoy. 
Turnip -rooted,  in  varieties 


THE  early  sorts  of  spring  Cabbage  may  be  raised  in  vari- 
ous ways.  Some  sow  the  seed  between  the  tenth  and  twenty- 
fourth  of  September,  pricked  out  and  managed  the  same  as 
Cauliflower  plants,  only  that  they  are  more  hardy,  and  may 
sometimes  be  kept  through  the  winter,  without  sashes. 

Some  prefer  sowing  the  seed  in  a  cold-bed,  covered  by  a 
garden  frame  with  sashes.  If  this  frame  be  placed  on  a 
warm  border,  and  kept  free  from  frost,  and  the  seed  of  the 
early  kinds  sown  the  latter  end  of  January,  or  early  in  Feb- 
ruary, these  plants  will  be  better  than  those  raised  in  the 
fall  ;  as  they  will  not  be  so  liable  to  run  to  seed,  and  they 
will  be  more  hardy,  and  full  as  early  as  those  raised  in  hot- 
beds in  the  spring. 

Or,  if  a  heap  of  fresh  horse  manure  be  deposited  on  the 
ground  intended  for  the  raising  of  early  plants  before  the 
frost  sets  in,  the  same  may  be  removed  some  mild  day  in 
January  or  February,  and  temporary  frames  made  by  driving 
stakes  in  the  ground,  and  nailing  planks  or  slabs  thereto. 
The  ground  being  then  dug,  the  seed  sown,  and  covered  up 
with  sashes,  will  soon  produce  plants  in  perfection.  The 
frames  should  be  well  protected,  by  placing  the  manure 
around  them,  and  covering  the  tops  with  mats,  boards,  &c., 
as  directed  for  hot-beds  in  the  Calendar  for  February  and 
March. 


CABBAGE.  55 

It  is  customary  with  gardeners  about  New- York  to  raise 
their  plants  in  hot-beds.  In  order  to  do  this,  the  beds  should 
be  prepared,  as  directed  in  a  future  page  of  this  book,  (see 
Index,)  so  as  to  be  ready  to  receive  the  seed  by  the  latter 
end  of  February,  or  ea,rly  in  March.  Plants  thus  produced, 
as  well  as  those  raised  as  before  directed,  will  be  fit  to  trans- 
plant about  the  middle  of  April,  and  should  be  carefully 
planted,  with  a  suitable  dibble,  in  good  ground,  from  sixteen 
inches  to  two  feet  apart,  according  to  size  and  kind  :  these 
by  being  hoed  often,  will  produce  good  Cabbages  in  June. 
If  seed  of  the  large  early  kinds  be  sown  in  a  warm  border, 
early  in  April,  they  will  produce  plants  fit  to  transplant  in 
May,  which  will  make  good  Cabbages  for  summer  use.* 

The  seed  of  Red  Cabbage  may  be  sown  toward  the  end 
of  April  or  early  in  May,  and  that  of  Savoys  and  late  Cab- 
bage in  general,  may  be  sown  at  two  or  three  different  times, 
between  the  middle  and  the  end  of  May,  in  fresh  rich  ground. 

The  most  certain  way  of  raising  good  strong  plants  in  the 
summer  season,  is  to  sow  the  seed  in  a  moderately  shaded 
border,  in  shallow  drills  drawn  three  or  four  inches  apart. 
One  ounce  of  seed  sown  in  this  manner,  will  occupy  a  bor- 
der of  about  four  feet  in  width  by  twelve  in  length,  and  pro- 
duce about  four  thousand  stout  plants  ;  whereas,  if  seed  be 
sown  broad-cast,  as  is  the  usual  custom,  two  ounces  of  seed 


*  As  numerous  species  of  insects  attack  plants  of  the  Brassica  or  Cab- 
bage tribe,  in  r very  stage  of  their  growth,  great  caution  is  necessary  in  their 
cultivation.  For  a  prevention  to  the  attacks  of  fleas  or  flies,  see  page  19 
of  the  General  Remarks.  Perhaps  the  most  effectual  way  of  saving  plants 
from  grub-worms,  is  not  to  transplant  any,  during  the  month  of  June. 
Seed  beds  are  very  seldom  attacked  ;  but  if  they  should  be,  they  may  be 
protected  by  digging  trenches  around  them,  and  throwing  in  lime,  salt,  or 
ashes,  sufficient  to  prevent  the  ingress  of  the  worms.  If  seed  of  the  vari- 
ous kinds  be  sown  at  the  times  recommended,  the  early  varieties  will  be  st> 
far  advanced  in  growth  before  the  grub-worms  prevail,  as  to  be  out  of  their 
reach  ;  and  by  the  time  the  late  sown  plants  are  ready  to  transplant,  the 
worms  will  be  harmless,  because  they  turn  gray  toward  the  end  of  June, 
and  by  the  middle  of  July,  the  time  recommended  for  general  transplanting, 
the  danger  from  grub-worms  is  over.  For  the  destruction  of  caterpillars, 
see  General  Remarks,  page  20. 


56  CABBAGE. 

may  not  produce  so  many  good  plants,  as  the  one  ounce  on 
the  plan  recommended. 

The  Bergen,  and  other  large  kinds,  should  be  transplanted 
the  second  and  third  week  in  July,  in  rows  thirty  inches 
asunder,  and  the  plants  about  two  feet  apart  in  the  rows : 
the  Savoys  and  smaller  sorts  may  be  planted  about  the  same 
time,  but  from  four  to  six  inches  nearer  every  way.  Cabbage 
succeeds  best  in  a  fresh  rich  soil,  and  the  ground  should  be 
deeply  hoed  or  ploughed,  at  least  three  times,  during  their 
growth. 

The  Brassica  Rapa,  or  Turnip  Cabbage,  produces  its  bulb, 
or  protuberance,  on  the  stems  above  ground,  immediately 
under  the  leaves.  It  is  eatable  when  young,  or  about  the 
size  of  a  garden  Turnip. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  April  or  May,  and  the  plants 
afterward  treated  the  same  as  Cabbage,  only  that  in  earthing 
up  the  plants  you  must  be  careful  not  to  cover  the  globular 
part. 

They  are  much  more  hardy  than  Turnips.  In  England 
the  bulbs  often  grow  to  upward  of  twenty  inches  in  circum- 
ference, and  weigh  from  ten  to  twelve  pounds.  They  are 
cultivated  for  the  feeding  of  cows  and  sheep,  as  well  as  for 
table  use  ;  in  either  case  they  treat  them  as  they  do  Cabbage, 
or  sow  them  like  Turnips,  and  afterward  hoe  them  out  to 
proper  distances. 

The  Brassica  Napus,  or  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage,  has  an 
oblong  thick  root  in  the  form  of  a  winter  Radish ;  it  is  ex- 
tremely hardy,  and  will  survive  very  hard  frosts  ;  the  seed 
should  be  sown  in  rich  ground,  and  treated  in  every  respect 
as  Turnips,  observing  to  thin  the  plants  with  a  hoe  to  the  dis- 
tance of  sixteen  inches  apart.  Their  roots  will  be  much 
larger  and  better  when  treated  in  this  way,  than  if  trans- 
planted. 

The  Brassica  Napus,  variety  esculenta,  is  sometimes  culti- 
vated as  a  salad  herb.  It  is  held  in  great  esteem  by  the 
French  as  a  culinary  vegetable,  and  is  called  the  Navet,  or 


COLEWORT,    OR    COLLARDS.  />7 

French  Turnip.  In  France,  as  well  as  in  Germany,  few 
great  dinners  are  served  up  without  it,  in  some  shape  or 
other. 


COLEWORT,  OR  COLLARDS. 
CHOU  VERT.     Brassica  oleracea. 

THIS  is  a  species  of  Cabbage  which  is  eaten  when  young; 
it  so  nearly  resembles  the  early  kinds  of  Cabbage,  that  it  is 
seldom  cultivated.  The  English  frequently  sow  the  seed  of 
early  heading  kinds  of  Cabbage  as  a  substitute,  which  being 
done  at  different  seasons,  enables  them  to  procure  a  supply 
of  fresh  greens  from  their  gardens  every  day  in  the  year. 
This  is  not  attainable  here,  on  account  of  the  extremes  of 
heat  and  cold ;  but  Collards  would  prove  very  valuable  and 
acceptable,  in  the  event  of  an  unfavourable  season  for  fall 
Cabbage. 

If  the  seed  of  Early  York,  Early  Dutch,  or  other  early 
kinds  of  Cabbage,  be  sown  in  June,  July,  and  August,  and 
transplanted  as  they  become  fit,  into  good  ground,  from  fif- 
teen to  eighteen  inches  apart,  the  first  planting  would  make 
good  heads  for  fall  use ;  and  the  plants  of  late  sowings,  if 
transplanted  in  September  and  October,  in  a  warm  border, 
would  produce  tender,  sweet-eating  greens  for  use  in  the 
early  part  of  winter ;  the  latter  plantings  may  be  placed  ten 
or  twelve  inches  from  plant  to  plant.  These  could  be  easily 
sheltered  on  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  without  being 
taken  up.  The  cultivation  of  Collards  is  well  adapted  to  our 
Southern  States,  as  there  they  need  no  protection  in  winter. 


58  CARROT. 

CARDOONS. 
CARDON.      Cynara  cardunculus. 

THE  Cardoon  Artichoke,  a  native  of  Candia,  is  mucli  cul- 
tivated in  Europe  for  culinary  purposes,  such  as  for  salads, 
soups,  stews,  &c. 

The  stems  of  the  leaves  being  thick  and  crisp,  are  the  eat- 
able parts,  after  being  blanched.  They  are  in  perfection  in 
autumn  and  winter. 

The  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  bed  of  rich  earth  in  the  month 
of  April ;  and  one  ounce  will  produce  about  six  hundred 
plants  :  when  the  plants  are  up  ^strong,  they  should  be  thin- 
ned so  as  to  leave  them  four  or  five  inches  apart,  to  prevent 
them  from  becoming  weak.  They  may  be  transplanted  in 
June,  at  the  distance  of  four  feet  from  each  other  every  way  ; 
observe,  before  planting,  to  dress  their  tops  and  roots  the 
same  as  Celery.  As  they  advance  in  growth,  they  are  to  be 
earthed  up  for  blanching,  keeping  the  leaves  close  together ; 
this  may  be  done  with  bass  or  matting,  as  practised  with  En- 
dive ;  they  are  afterward  to  be  earthed  up  gradually  from 
time  to  time,  until  whitened  to  a  sufficient  height.  As  win- 
ter approaches,  Cardoons  must  be  taken  up  and  laid  away 
like  Celery,  or  they  may  be  preserved  with  sand  in  a  cellar. 


CARROT. 
CAROTTE.     Dauciis  carota. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Orange. 
Long  Orange. 
Altringham. 


Long  Lemon-coloured. 
Blood  Red. 
Long  White. 


THE  Carrot  is  a  native  of  Britain,  and  grows  by  the  road- 
side in  many  parts.  As  a  culinary  vegetable,  it  is  much 
used  in  soups  and  stews,  and  forms  a  dish  with  boiled  beef, 
&c.  The  coarse  sorts  are  cultivated  as  fodder  for  cows, 
sheep,  oxen,  and  horses,  and  are  considered  profitable,  as 


CARROT. 


5<J 


they  frequently  yield  upward  of  four  hundred  bushels  to  an 
acre,  when  cultivated  on  the  field  system. 

For  the  garden,  the  Early  Orange  should  be  cultivated  for 
spring  and  summer  use ;  but  the  Long  Orange  is  more  suit- 
able for  main  crops,  on  account  of  its  bright  orange  colour, 
as  well  as  for  its  great  size  and  length.  Carrots  grow  to 
great  perfection  in  a  rich  loamy  soil,  and  may  be  raised  in 
drills  drawn  about  one  inch  deep,  and  twelve  inches  asunder. 
A  small  bed  may  be  planted  at  the  latter  end  of  March  for 
an  early  crop,  and  from  that  time  to  the  end  of  May  for  suc- 
cessive crops  ;  but  the  principal  crop  should  not  be  sown  too 
soon,  as  the  early  plantings  are  apt  to  produce  seed-stalks, 
and,  consequently,  stringy  and  useless  roots. 

The  most  suitable  ground  for  late  Carrots,  is  that  which 
has  been  well  manured  for  previous  crops,  and  requires  no 
fresh  manure.  If  the  seed  be  sown  in  June,  and  the  plants 
thinned  out  to  the  distance  of  five  or  six  inches  from  each 
other  when  young,  and  kept  hoed,  they  will  yield  an  abun- 
dance of  fine  roots  for  winter  and  spring  use,  by  being  taken 
up  in  autumn,  and  preserved  either  in  sand  in  a  cellar,  or 
covered  up  in  pits  in  a  garden,  as  directed  in  the  Calendar 
for  November. 

Although  Carrot  seed  is  naturally  small  and  light,  it  seldom 
fails  to  vegetate  in  favourable  seasons  ;  it,  therefore,  need  not 
be  spwn  too  thick  in  ground  not  apt  to  produce  weeds.  If 
a  root  could  be  insured  to  grow  unmolested  in  every  instance 
where  a  seed  may  be  deposited,  two  pounds  would  be  more 
than  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  land ;  but  gardeners  generally 
use  four  or  five  pounds  to  the  acre,  in  order  that  the  rows 
may  be  more  easily  traced  in  the  event  of  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  weeds.  To  avoid  risking  an  unequal  crop  in  small  gar- 
dens, half  an  ounce  of  seed  should  be  allotted  for  every  pole, 
perch,  or  rod,  or  twenty  ounces  for  a  rood  of  land.  On  light 
ground,  the  use  of  a  roller  would  be  beneficial  in  dry  weather, 
excess  of  which  is  detrimental  to  the  germination  of  Carrot, 
as  well  as  of  all  other  light  seed. 


60  CELERY. 

CELERY. 
CELERI.     Apium  graveolens. 

VARIETIES. 

White  Solid.  •   j  New  White  Lion's  Paw. 

Red-coloured  Solid.  North's  Red  Giant. 

Celeriac,  or  Turnip-rooted. 

THIS  vegetable,  so  much  esteemed  as  a  salad,  is  known  in 
its  wild  state  by  the  name  of  Smallage  ;  and  is  found  in  greai 
abundance  by  the  sides  of  ditches,  and  near  the  seacoast  of 
Britain.  The  effects  of  cultivation  are  here  strikingly  exhi- 
bited, in  producing  from  a  rank,  coarse  weed,  the  mild  and 
sweet  stalks  of  the  Celery.  This  circumstance  should  stimu- 
late the  young  gardener  to  aim  at  improvement  in  the  culti 
vation  of  plants  in  general. 

It  is  customary  with  some  gardeners  to  raise  their  early 
plants  in  hot-beds ;  but  as  plants  thus  raised  are  apt  to  pro 
duce  seed- stalks,  it  is  much  safer  to  cultivate  them  in  cold- 
beds,  prepared  as  directed  for  the  raising  of  early  Cabbage 
plants.  The  seed  for  a  general  crop  may  be  sown  the  last 
week  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  in  rich,  mellow  ground, 
and  in  a  situation  where  the  plants  can  be  protected  from  the 
parching  heat  of  a  summer  sun  (a  border  against  a  north 
aspect  is  the  most  suitable).  Some  sow  the  seed  broad-cast, 
but  the  plants  will  be  much  stouter  if  raised  in  drills.  The 
drills  may  be  half  an  inch  deep,  and  six  inches  apart,  so  that 
a  small  hoe  can  be  worked  between  the  rows ;  and  if  pro- 
perly attended  to,  every  ounce  of  seed  so  sown  will  produce 
ten  thousand  strong  plants  or  more. 

The  early  sown  plants  should  be  pricked  out  in  a  nursery 
bed  of  cool  rich  earth,  as  soon  as  they  are  two  or  three  inches 
high,  there  to  remain  about  a  month,  after  which  they  will 
be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  trenches. 

Choose  for  this  purpose  a  piece  of  rich  ground,  in  an  open 
exposure  ;  mark  out  the  trenches  by  line,  ten  or  twelve  inches 
wide,  and  allow  the  space  of  three  feet  between  them,  which 


CELERY.  61 

will  be  sufficient  for  the  early  plantations.  Dig  eacn  trench 
a  moderate  spade  deep,  laying  the  dug-out  earth  equally  on 
each  side,  between  the  trenches ;  put  three  inches  deep  of 
very  rotten  dung  in  the  bottom  of  each  trench,  then  pare  the 
sides,  and  dig  the  dung  and  parings  with  an  inch  or  two  of 
the  loose  mould  at  the  bottom,  incorporating  all  well  together 
and  put  in  the  plants.* 

Previous  to  planting,  trim  the  plants,  by  cutting  off  the 
long  straggling  leaves,  and  also  the  ends  of  the  roots.  Let 
them  be  planted  with  a  dibble,  in  single  rows,  along  the  mid- 
dle of  each  trench,  five  or  six  inches  between  plant  and  plant ; 
as  soon  as  they  are  planted,  give  them  a  plentiful  watering, 
and  let  them  be  shaded  until  they  strike  root  and  begin  to 
grow. 

The  main  crops  may  be  planted  in  the  same  way,  but  in 
trenches  four  feet  distant  from  each  other,  and  an  inch  or 
two  farther  from  plant  to  plant ;  or  in  beds  made  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner,  which,  for  the  ease  of  preserving  the  plants 
in  winter,  will  be  found  extremely  convenient,  besides  a 
greater  quantity  can  be  raised  on  a  given  piece  of  ground. 

Lay  out  the  ground  into  beds  four  feet  wide,  with  alleys 
between,  three  feet ;  dig  the  beds  a  spade  deep,  throwing  the 
earth  on  the  alleys :  when  done,  lay  four  or  five  inches  of 
good,  well-rotted  dung  all  over  the  bottom  of  the  beds,  dig 
and  incorporate  it  with  the  loose  earth,  and  cover  the  whole 
with  an  inch  or  two  of  earth  from  the  alleys  ;  plant  four  rows 

*  Some  erardeners  are  accustomed  to  cultivate  Celery  on  the  level  ground ; 
others,  after  making  their  trenches  in  the  usual  way,  go  to  the  expense  of 
carting  peculiar  soil  from  a  distance,  with  which  they  replenish  their 
trenches  until  nearly  full.  Those  who  have  pursued  the  latter  plan,  say 
that  they  are  rewarded  for  their  trouble  by  gathering  roots  of  superior  size 
and  quality  ;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  would  prove  profitable  to  prac- 
tice this  plan  on  an  extensive  scale.  It  may,  however,  be  judicious  in  those 
gardeners,  whose  subsoil,  or  under  stratum,  is  inferior,  or  ill-adapted  for 
the  growth  of  Celery,  to  cultivate  it  in  shallow  drills,  or  farrows  worked 
out  with  a  plough,  by  which  means  they  may  secure  good  soil  to  plant  in, 
and  also  to  earth  up  with.  In  such  cases  the  rows  must  be  from  four  to 
five  feet  apart,  and  frequent  ploughing  between  them  would  promote  th« 
growth  of  the  plants. 

6 


62  CELERY. 

in  each  bed  at  equal  distances,  and  from  six  to  eight  inches 
apart  in  the  rows ;  after  which,  give  them  a  plentiful  water 
ing,  and  shade  them. 

The  plants  must  be  hoed  occasionally,  until  grown  of  suf- 
ficient size  for  earthing,  which  is  done  with  the  assistance  of 
boards,  by  laying  them  along  the  rows,  to  support  the  leaves 
while  you  are  putting  in  the  earth  from  the  alleys,  and  re- 
moving them  as  you  progress  in  the  business. 

The  earthing  should  never  be  done  when  the  plants  are 
wet,  as  this  is  apt  to  make  the  Celery  rusty,  but  should  be 
performed  gradually  in  fine  weather  as  the  plants  progress 
in  growth,  repeating  the  earthing  every  two  weeks  ;  at  which 
time  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  up  all  the  leaves  neatly, 
and  not  to  bury  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  When  they  are 
grown  two  feet  high,  and  well  blanched,  they  are  fit  for  the 
table. 

As  Celery  will  grow  three  or  four  feet  high  in  one  season, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  delay  the  planting  of  that  which  is  in- 
tended for  winter  use  until  the  latter  end  of  July,  but  the 
trenches  should  always  be  got  ready  soon  enough  to  avoid  a 
serious  drought,  which  often  delays  the  planting  till  too  late 
in  the  season.  The  blanching  of  Celery  for  winter  use  may 
be  delayed  until  October. 

By  market  gardeners  who  raise  Celery  on  a  large  scale, 
the  trenches  may  be  worked  out  with  a  plough,  and  finished 
with  a  spade  or  hoe.  The  ground  may  also  be  ploughed 
between  each  row  of  Celery  previous  to  earthing  it  up  ;  this 
will  save  much  labour. 

The  Celeriac,  or  Turnip-rooted,  may  be  planted  either  on 
level  ground  or  in  shallow  drills  ;  the  root  of  it  swells  like  a 
Turnip,  and  may  be  preserved  in  sand  through  the  winter. 
The  French  and  Germans  cut  it  in  slices,  and  soak  it  a  few 
hours  in  vinegar  ;  by  such  simple  preparation,  it  becomes 
mellow  as  a  pineapple,  and  affords  a  delicious  and  very  nour- 
ishing repast. 


CORN    SALAD,   OR   FETTICUS.  > 

CORN  SALAD,  OR  FETTICUS. 

MACHE  ou  DOUCETTE.     Valenana  locusta. 

VARIETY. — Olitoria. 

THIS  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  corn-fields  of  Eng- 
land, hence  it  is  called  Corn  Salad ;  and  from  its  being  suf- 
ficiently hardy  to  stand  the  winter,  and  affording  an  early 
pasturage,  it  has  acquired  the  appellation  of  Lamb's  Lettuce. 
Et  is  cultivated  as  a  salad  for  winter  and  early  spring  use. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  in  rich,  clean  ground,  the  latter  end 
of  August  or  early  in  September. 

Some  gardeners  sow  the  seed  in  beds  four  or  live  feet 
wide,  \\ith  paths  between  each  bed,  just  sufficient  to  admit 
of  room  for  hand-weeding ;  but  it  will  vegetate  more  freely 
if  sown  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  provided  it  be  carefully 
covered.  The  drills  may  be  about  six  inches  apart,  or  just 
sufficient  to  admit  a  small  hoe  to  work  between  the  rows  ; 
for  if  the  plants  are  not  cleared  of  all  weeds  while  young, 
they  will  be  more  plague  than  profit. 

Fetticus  must  be  covered  up  with  straw  at  the  approach 
of  severe  weather,  to  preserve  it  in  good  condition  for  use  in 
the  early  part  of  the  ensuing  spring,  as  that  is  the  season 
which  most  amply  remunerates  the  cultivator. 

The  seed  of  Fetticus  is  small  and  light,  but  it  will  admit 
of  being  sown  thick,  say  at  the  rate  of  from  four  to  six 
pounds  to  an  acre  of  land. 


04  CRES8. 

CRESS. 
CRESSON.     J^epidium  sativuvn. 

VARIETIES. 

Curled,  or  Peppergrass.  I  Broad-leaved  Garden. 

CRESS  is  a  small  salad  herb,  and  is  generally  used  with 
Lettuce,  White  Mustard,  Rape,  Chervil,  &c.  It  may  be 
sown  very  thick  in  little  drills,  as  should  salad  seed  in  gene- 
ral, and  cut  before  it  comes  into  rough  leaf.  A  small  quan- 
tity in  the  salad  season,  which  is  spring  and  autumn,  may  be 
sown  every  week  in  rich  ground,  free  from  weeds. 


CRESS,  (Water.) 
CRESSON  DE  FONTAINE.     Sisymbrium  nasturtium. 

THE  Water  Cress  is  a  creeping,  amphibious  perennial,  and 
is  grown  very  extensively  for  the  London  Markets.  Loudon 
says,  in  his  Encyclopedia  of  Gardening,  that  "  The  most 
suitable  description  of  water  is  a  clear  stream,  not  more  than 
an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  running  over  sand  or  gravel ;  the 
least  favourable,  deep,  still  water,  or  a  muddy  bottom.  It  is 
highly  advantageous  to  make  the  plantations  in  newly-risen 
spring  water,  as  the  plants  do  not  only  thrive  better  in  it,  but, 
;n  consequence  of  its  being  rarely  frozen,  they  generally  con 
tinue  in  vegetation,  and  in  a  good  state  for  gathering,  through 
the  whole  winter  season.  The  plants  are  disposed  in  rows 
parallel  with  the  course  of  the  stream,  about  eighteen  inches 
apart.  When  these  plants  begin  to  grow  in  water  one  inch 
and  a  half  deep,  they  soon  check  the  current  so  as  to  raise 
the  water  to  the  height  of  three  inches  above  the  plants, 
which  is  considered  the  most  favourable  circumstance  in 
which  they  can  be  placed.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  to  have 
a  constant  current,  as  where  there  is  any  obstruction  to  the 
stream,  the  plants  cease  to  thrive.  After  they  have  been  cut 
about  three  times,  they  begin  to  stock,  and  then  the  oftener 
liiey  are  cut  the  better. 


CUCUMBER. 

CUCUMBER. 
CONCOMBRE.     Cucwnis  sativus,  eic. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Frame. 
Early  Green  Cluster. 
Early  Green  Table. 
Long  Prickly. 
Short  Prickly. 


Long  Green. 
Extra  Long  Green. 
Long  White  Turkey. 
White  Spined. 
West  India,  or  Gherkrn 


THE  Cucumis  sativus,  or  common  Cucumber,  is  a  native  of 
the  East  Indies,  and  of  nearly  as  great  antiquity  as  the  vine. 
It  was  introduced  into  England  in  1573.  and  is  extensively 
cultivated  in  forcing  frames,  and  in  the  open  air.  In  March, 
they  are  sold  in  the  London  Markets  for  a  guinea  a  dozen ; 
and  in  August  and  September  for  one  penny  per  dozen. 

As  Cucumbers  are  much  used  in  New- York,  it  should  be 
an  object  with  gardeners  to  have  them  in  the  market  early  ; 
directions  for  raising  them  out  of  the  ordinary  season,  are 
therefore  given  in  a  future  page,  under  the  head  Forcing 
Vegetables ;  to  which  the  reader  is  referred.  Cucumbers 
may  be  raised  in  the  open  ground  by  planting  seed  the  first 
week  of  May,  in  hills  four  feet  apart ;  or  if  the  ground  be 
light,  basins  formed  an  inch  below  the  level  of  the  surface 
would  be  beneficial.*  Previous  to  planting,  the  ground  should 
be  prepared  by  incorporating  a  shovelful  of  rotten  clung  with 
the  earth  in  each  hill,  after  which  four  or  five  seed  may  be 
planted  half  an  inch  deep.  One  ounce  of  good  seed  is  suf- 
ficient for  two  hundred  hills  and  upward. 

Cucumbers  are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  a  yellow  fly,  which 
sometimes  devours  young  plants ;  these  and  other  insects 
may  be  killed  by  sowing  tobacco  dust,  soot,  powdered  char- 

*  The  term  hill  is  frequently  made  use  of  by  gardeners  and  farmers,  to 
designate  a  situation  allotted  for  a  given  number  of  seed,  whereas,  such 
seed  are  more  frequently  deposited  below  the  level  of  the  surface  than 
above  it ;  yet,  as  the  plants  progress  in  growth,  hills  are  frequently  formed 
around  them,  which  makes  the  term  applicable,  or  rather  reconciles  the 
apparent  contradiction 

6* 


66  EGG-PLANT. 

coal,  and  the  like,  round  about  the  vines  when  they  first 
come  up,  or  by  applying  the  liquid  recommended  in  page 
19  of  the  General  Remarks.  After  this  is  done,  the  plants 
may  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in  a  hill,  and  the  ground 
carefully  hoed,  drawing  a  little  earth  round  them  at  the  same 
time.  The  vines  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and  if  the 
weather  proves  dry,  a  gentle  watering  now  and  then,  given 
in  the  evening,  will  be  of  considerable  service. 

Picklers  may  be  raised  by  planting  the  seed  at  any  time 
in  July.  When  the  vines  begin  to  bear,  they  should  be  looked 
over,  and  the  fruit  gathered  as  soon  as  it  becomes  fit,  as  the 
plant  will  cease  to  bear  much  if  the  fruit  be  permitted  to  get 
yellow. 


CHIVES,  OR  GIVES. 
CIVETTE.     Jillium  schanoprasum. 

THIS  is  a  small  species  of  Onion,  and  grows  in  large  tufts  ; 
it  is  propagated  by  offsets  from  the  roots,  and  may  be 
planted  either  in  spring  or  autumn,  in  rows  ten  or  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  the  bulbs  three  or  four  inches  apart  in  the 
rows  ;  they  will  soon  take  root,  and  increase  very  fast,  form- 
ing large  bunches  of  bulbs.  They  make  handsome  edging 
for  beds  or  borders. 


EGG-PLANT. 
MELONGENE  AU  AUBERGINE.     Solarium  melongena. 

VARIETIES 
Purple,  for  cooking.  I  White,  for  ornament.      , 

THE  seed  of  the  Purple  Egg-plant  may  be  sown  in  a  hot- 
bed about  the  first  of  March ;  and  the  sashes  must  be  kept 
down  close  until  the  plants  come  up,  after  which  a  little  air 


EGG-PLANT.  G7 

may  be  given  in  the  heat  of  the  day.*  Toward  the  middle 
of  May,  if  the  weather  be  warm  and  settled,  the  plants 
should  be  set  out  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  apart,  in 
a  rich,  warm  piece  of  ground;  and  if  kept  clean,  and  a  little 
earth  be  drawn  up  to  their  stems  when  about  a  foot  high, 
they  will  produce  plenty  of  fruit. 

Plants  of  the  white  variety  may  be  riased  in  the  same  man- 
ner, anrt  transplanted  into  pots  in  May;  or  if  some  of  the 
seed  be  sown  in  a  warm  situation  the  first  week  in  May,  these 
may  come  to  perfection  in  the  course  of  the  summer.  This 
variety,  though  generally  cultivated  for  ornament,  is  good 
when  cooked. 

As  Egg  plants  will  not  grow  in  the  open  ground  until  set- 
tled warm  weather,  and  are  apt  to  perish  from  being  trans- 
planted too  early,  the  gardener  should  be  provided  with  small 
p  its,  in  order  that  the  plants  may  be  transplanted  therein 
early  in  May,  and  placed  in  a  frame,  there  to  remain  until 
the  first  week  in  June,  at  which  time,  if  they  are  turned  out 
and  planted,  with  the  bails  of  earth  entire,  they  will  soon  take 
root  and  grow  freely. 

Select  the  fruit  when  at  maturity;  cut  it  into  slices,  and 
parboil  it  in  a  stewpan  ;  when  softened,  drain  off  the  water ; 
it  may  then  be  fried  in  batter  made  with  wheaten  flour  and 
an  egg,  or  in  fresh  butter  with  bread  grated  fine  and  sea- 
soned before  it  is  put  in  the  pan,  with  pepper,  salt,  thyme, 
and  such  other  herbs  as  may  best  suit  the  palate.  Some  use 
Marjoram,  Summer  Savory,  Parsley,  Onion,  &c. 


*  Ktrg-plant  seed  will  not  vegetate  freely  without  substantial  heat ;  but  with 
proper  management,  upward  of  four  thousand  plants  may  be  raised  from 
an  ounce  of  seed.  If  these  plants  get  the  least  chilled  in  the  earlier  stages 
of  growth,  they  seldom  recover  ;  it  is,  therefore,  important  that  the  frame 
allotted  for  them  be  placed  over  a  well-regulated  hot-bed,  and  partitioned 
of,  so  that  the  sash  can  be  kept  down  over  the  plants  in  cool  weather. 

Some  gardeners  raise  Egg-plants  in  the  same  frame  with  Cabbage,  and 
such  other  half-hardy  plants  as  require  air  every  mild  day  ;  by  such  man- 
agement, one  or  the  other  must  suffer  for  want  of  suitable  aliment,  heat 
being  the  principal  food  of  tender  plants,  and  air  that  of  the  more  hardy 
species 


68  ENDIVE,    OR    SUCCORY. 

ENDIVE,  OR  SUCCORY. 
CHICOREE  DBS  JARDINS.     Cichorium  endiva,  etc 

VARIETIES. 

Green  Curled.  I  Golden  Yellow. 

White  Curled.  Broad-leaved,  or  Scarolle. 

THE  Cichorium  endiva  is  a  native  of  China  and  Japan,  and  is 
much  used  in  salads  and  stews,  and  as  a  garnish  for  the  table. 

The  proper  kind  of  seed  for  early  sowing  is  the  Green 
Curled.  A  small  quantity  of  this  may  be  sown  at  different 
times  in  April  and  May,  by  those  who  would  have  it  early. 
These  crops  will  be  very  apt  to  run  to  seed  ;  for  this  reason, 
it  will  be  best  to  delay  the  sowing  of  seed  for  general  crops 
until  June,  or  July.  If  a  small  quantity  of  each  esteemed 
variety  be  sown  two  or  three  times  in  these  months,  they 
will  produce  a  plentiful  supply  for  use  in  Autumn  and  the 
early  part  of  Winter.  One  ounce  of  good  Endive  seed  will 
produce  about  five  thousand  plants. 

When  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  they  should 
be  transplanted  into  good  ground,  at  the  distance  of  a  foot, 
from  each  other,  and  immediately  watered ;  or  if  they  are 
set  out  in  cloudy  or  wet  weather,  it  will  save  this  trouble. 
The  plants  will  requrie  to  be  hoed  and  attended  to  in  the 
same  manner  as  Lettuce,  until  grown  to  a  moderate  size,  when 
they  must  be  blanched.  Select  the  large  and  full-hearted 
plants,  and  with  bass  or  other  strings,  tie  them  a  little  above 
the  middle,  not  too  tight,  previously  gathering  up  the  leaves 
regularly  in  the  hand.  This  must  be  done  when  the  leaves 
are  very  dry,  otherwise  the  plants  will  rot.  The  Cichorium 
intylms  grows  spontaneuosly  in  many  parts  of  Europe  and 
America.  In  France  it  is  much  cultivated ;  the  tops  of  the 
plants  are  considered  profitable  for  cattle,  and  the  roots  are 
taken  up  in  Autumn,  and  dried.  The  aromatic  and  volatile 
qualities  of  coffee  are,  by  the  combination  of  this  root,  ren- 
dered more  mellow  and  full  upon  the  palate,  and  its  fragrance 
greatly  increased,  producing  an  agreeable  tonic,  and  most 
exhilarating  beverap-e. 


HORSE-RADISH.  69 

Sow  the  seed  in  April  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  and  about 
eighteen  inches  apart ;  thin  out  the  plants  to  six  or  eight 
inches  in  the  row.  The  plant  produces  beautiful  blue  flowers, 
and  is  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  flower  garden.  The  roots  when 
dried,  roasted  as  coffee,  and  ground,  may  be  mixed  in  the 
proportion  of  two  ounces  of  the  powder  to  a  pound  of  coffee 


HORSE-RADISH. 
RAIFORT.     Cochlearia  armoracia. 

THIS  plant  is  propagated  by  cuttings  from  the  root,  either 
cut  from  the  top  about  two  inches  long,  or  by  offsets,  or 
otherwise  useless  parts,  from  the  sides  of  the  main  root,  re- 
taining the  crowns  or  top  shoots  in  as  many  parts  as  possible. 
These  should  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as  practicable, 
in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  six  or  eight  inches  from  each 
other  in  the  rows. 

Select  for  the  bed  a  good  depth  of  soil,  and  such  as  will 
retain  moisture,  manure  it  with  well-rotted  dung,  plough  or 
dig  it  deep,  and  with  a  drilling  machine  or  other  convenient 
implement,  draw  drills  a  foot  apart ;  then  plant  with  a  dibble, 
cuttings  as  above  described,  in  every  alternate  drill,  from  two 
to  three  inches  deep.  The  intermediate  drills  may  be  planted 
with  Beet  or  Carrot  seed,  or  that  of  any  other  root,  but  Tur- 
nip Beets  are  the  most  suitable  to  cultivate  between  the  rows, 
as  they  will  grow  quick,  and  can  be  pulled  out  without  dis- 
turbing the  Horse-radish. 

The  Beets  must  of  course  be  thinned  out  while  young,  and 
kept  cultivated  by  hoeing  between  the  rows,  which  will  also 
benefit  the  Horse-radish.  After  the  Beets  are  pulled,  hoe 
the  ground  again,  and  keep  it  clear  of  weeds,  by  which 
method  the  bed  may  be  cleared  every  year. 

Some  cultivate  Horse-radish  in  a  permanent  bed,  in  which 
case,  if,  in  taking  up  the  roots,  some  offsets  be  left  in  the 
ground,  they  will  produce  a  successive  supply  for  future  years. 


70  JERUSALEM    ARTICHOKE. 

INDIAN  CORN. 
MAIS.     Zta,  mayz. 

VARIETIES. 


Early  Dutton. 
Early  Tuscarora. 
Early  Canadian. 
Sweet,  or  Sugar. 


Cobbet's  Early  Normandy 
Southern  Horsetooth. 
Early  Golden  Sioux. 
Mottled  and  Curious  Pearl. 


THE  different  varieties  of  early  Corn  intended  for  b6iling 
when  young,  or  other's  as  curiosities,  may  be  planted  in  the 
garden  the  last  week  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in  hills  four 
feet  apart,  or  in  drills.  If  some  of  each  esteemed  variety  be 
planted  in  separate  beds  at  the  same  tim'e,  they  will  come  in 
for  the  table  one  after  the  other  in  regular  succession.  After 
this,  if  any  particular  variety  be  preferred,  it  may  be  planted 
at  different  times  in  the  month  of  May  and  June.  If  the 
ground  be  poor,  mix  a  shovelful  of  old  manure  with  the 
earth  in  each  hill  before  the  seed  are  planted,  and  after  the 
plants  are  up  strong,  scatter  a  tea-cup  full  of  wood  ashes 
around  each  hill.  This,  with  attentive  hoeing  and  hilling, 
will  cause  it  to  produce  ears  early.  Deep  digging  or  plough- 
ing between  the  hills  is  very  beneficial  when  the  corn  is  about 
eighteen  inches  high. 


JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKE. 
POMME  DE  TERRE.     HeUanthus  tuberosom. 

THIS  plant  is  a  native  of  America.  The  tubers  of  the 
root,  which  are  generally  abundant,  were,  before  Potatoes 
became  improved  by  cultivation,  in  great  esteem,  and  are 
yet  considered  a  fine  flavoured  and  nutritious  f  iod,  when 
boiled  and  mashed  with  butter.  They  may  be  easily  propa- 
gated by  cutting  the  roots  into  sets,  with  two  eyes  in  each, 
and  planting  them  in  the  same  mamier  as  Potatoes,  in  March 
and  April.  To  have  them  in  perfection,  they  should  be  hoed 


LEEK.  71 

frequently ,  and  the  ground  kept  loose  around  them.  In  dig- 
ging them  for  use,  care  should  be  taken  to  gather  them  out 
clean,  as  the  least  particle  left  will  grow  the  year  following, 
and  encumber  the  ground,  without  producing  a  crop  worth 
standing. 


LEEK. 
POIRREAU.     Allium  porrum. 

VARIETIES. 

Scotch,  or  Flag.  I  Large  London 

THIS  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  herb,  and  is  so  hardy  as 
to  endure  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  without  injury.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  in  March,  or  early  in  April,  in  a  bed  of 
rich  earth,  in  drills  about  an  inch  deep,  and  a  sufficient  dis 
cance  apart  to  admit  of  a  small  hoe  being  worked  between 
the  rows,  allowing  one  ounce  of  seed  for  every  three  thou- 
sand plants  that  may  be  required. 

If  the  ground  be  kept  loose  and  clean  around  the  plants, 
they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  in  June,  or  early  in  July,  and 
should  be  set  out  in  good  ground,  in  rows  twelve  inches 
asunder,  and  the  plants  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 
They  will  grow  well  in  a  warm  border,  which  at  this  season 
is  useless  for  many  kinds  of  vegetables.  After  the  plants  have 
taken  root,  they  should  be  frequently  hoed,  and  kept  free 
from  weeds. 

Those  who  wish  to  have  Leeks  blanched,  may  plant  them 
in  trenches  three  or  four  inches  deep,  and  as  the  plants  in- 
crease in  growth,  the  earth  should  be  drawn  by  a  hoe  into 
the  trenches. 


72  LETTUCE 

LETTUCE 

LAITUE.     Lactuca  saliva  crispa. 
VARIETIES. 


Large  Green  Head. 
Dutch,  or  Cabbage. 
Tennis  Ball,  or  Rose. 
Madeira,  or  Passion. 
Large  Green  Curled. 
Loco  Foco. 


Early  Silesia. 
Imperial,  or  Sugar  Loaf. 
Pale  Green,  or  Butter. 
Grand  Admiral. 
Large  Summer  Silesia. 
Paris  Loaf  Coss. 


IT  would  be  easy  to  furnish  a  more  extensive  catalogue  of 
Lettuce,  as  the  varieties  are  numerous  ;  but  as  this  is  one  of 
those  kinds  of  vegetables  that  can  only  be  raised  in  perfec 
lion  during  mild  and  temperate  weather,  it  is  needless  foi 
the  gardener  to  plant  any  in  the  open  ground,  but  such  as 
have  been  tested,  and  found  to  stand  a  tolerable  degree  of 
warm  weather,  which  generally  prevails  in  May  and  June, 
e,nd  consequently  cuts  short  the  salad  season.  Those  who 
nave  been  accustomed  to  raise  head  Lettuce  in  any  quantity, 
know  the  trouble  of  preparing  the  ground  and  planting,  and 
the  loss  they  would  sustain  if  several  thousand  plants  should 
run  to  seed  just  as  they  appeared  to  be  perfecting  for  market. 
As  this  is  often  the  case,  even  with  the  very  best  attention,  I 
would  caution  gardeners  to  test  such  plants  as  they  are  not 
acquainted  with,  before  they  set  out  any  quantity  with  a  view 
to  their  heading.* 

The  six  varieties  inserted  in  the  first  column  of  our  cata- 


*  It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  gardener,  that  MOTSTURE  is  the 
most  essential  nutriment  of  Lettuce,  and  that  the  very  best  varieties  may 
run  to  seed  without  forming  heads,  in  the  event  of  extreme  warm  weather. 
Those  who  put  off  the  sowing  of  seed  until  May  and  June,  instead  of 
sowing  it  in  March  and  A,pril,  as  directed,  may  procure  head  Lettuce  from 
some  of  their  strongest  plants,  by  transplanting  them  into  rich  ground  as 
soon  as  they  are  an  inch  or  two  in  height,  and  the  remainder,  if  left  thin  in 
the  beds,  may  produce  small  heads,  by  stirring  the  earth  around  them  with 
a  small  hoe,  or  weeding  hook  ;  these  are  as  good  for  family  use  as  larger 
heads,  and  those  persons  who  are  fond  of  Lettuce  may  raise  such  through- 
out the  summer ;  but  market  gardeners  seldom  attempt  it,  unless  they 
have  a  tract  of  moist,  loamy  soil,  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  growth  of  head 
Lettuce,  in  any  thing  like  a  propitious  season. 


LETTUCE.  73 

logue  have  been  known  to  stand  our  winters,  and  may  be 
sown  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  September,  in  rich 
ground,  free  from  weeds ;  they  answer  very  well  when  sown 
with  Spinach,  and  should  be  covered  with  straw  at  the  ap- 
proach of  severe  weather.  These  plants,  if  transplanted  into 
warm  borders,  or  in  the  open  ground,  as  early  in  March  as 
the  weather  will  permit,  will  produce  fine  heads  early  in  the 
month  of  May. 

The  best  of  the  tender  kinds  of  Lettuce  should  be  sown  in 
moderate  hot-beds  early  in  March,  and  if  transplanted  into 
good  ground  by  the  middle  of  April,  will  produce  their  heads 
before  the  approach  of  warm  weather.  Such  kinds  as  aie 
known  to  produce  heads  in  hot  weather,  and  also  such  as  are 
intended  to  be  cut  as  a  small  salad  while  young,  maybe  sown 
in  warm  borders  in  March  and  April ;  but  those  designed  for 
heading  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as  they  are  an  inch 
or  two  in  height,  and  kept  in  a  growing  state  by  frequent 
hoeing,  or  they  may  run  up  to  seed  as  the  season  advances. 

If  it  be  an  object  with  the  gardener  to  have  good  strong 
Lettuce  plants  for  transplanting,  the  seed  should  be  sown 
very  thin.  One  ounce  of  good  seed  is  sufficient  for  a  border 
of  six  feet  in  width  by  eighteen  feet  in  length,  and  will  pro- 
duce from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  plants. 

All  kinds  of  Lettuce  intended  for  heading  should  be  plant- 
ed in  good  ground,  twelve  inches  distant  from  each  other 
every  way ;  the  plants  should  be  carefully  hoed  every  othei 
week  during  their  growth ;  the  first  hoeing  should  be  done 
in  about  two  weeks  after  they  are  transplanted. 

The  Coss  Lettuce  requires  to  be  blanched ;  this  is  done 
by  gathering  up  the  leaves  of  the  plants  and  tying  bass  round 
them,  when  grown  to  perfection. 

If  Head  Lettuce  be  required  at  other  seasons  than  the 
spring,  it  may  be  obtained  in  autumn  by  sowing  seed  in  Au- 
gust, or  in  the  winter  by  means  of  garden  frames  and  glazed 
sashes.  \See  article  on  Forcing  Vegetables.] 


74  MELON. 

MELON. 
MELON.     Cucumis  melo. 


VARIETIES. 


Green-fleshed  Citron. 
Murray's  Pineapple. 
Green-fleshed  Persian. 
Green-fleshed  Nutmeg. 


Large  Yellow  Canteleupe. 
Pomegranate,  or  Musk  Scented. 
SkiJlman's  Fine  Netted. 
Snake,  (curious.) 


THE  Melon  is  an  exotic  plant,  growing  wild  in  Asia.  It 
is  cultivated  in  all  the  warm  countries  of  Europe,  and  also 
in  Afiica  and  America,  where  its  salubrious  and  cooling  fruit 
is  generally  esteemed. 

For  the  varieties  of  the  Musk  or  Canteleupe  Melons,  pre- 
pare a  piece  of  rich  ground  early  in  May ;  manure  it  and 
give  it  a  good  digging ;  then  mark  it  out  into  squares  of  six 
feet  every  way ;  at  the  angle  of  each  square,  dig  a  hole 
twelve  inches  deep  and  eighteen  over,  into  which  put  aboul 
six  inches  deep  of  old  rotten  dung ;  throw  thereon  about  four 
inches  of  earth,  and  rnix  the  dung  and  earth  well  with  the 
spade  ;  after  which  draw  more  earth  over  the  mixture,  so  as 
to  form  a  circular  hill  about  a  foot  broad  at  top.  (For  a  de- 
finition of  the  term  "  hill,"  see  article  Cucumber.)  When 
your  hills  are  all  prepared,  plant  in  each,  toward  the  centre, 
six  or  eight  grains  of  seed,  distant  two  inches  from  each 
other,  and  cover  them  about  half  an  inch  deep.  One  ounce 
of  good  Melon  seed  will  plant  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
hills. 

When  the  plants  are  in  a  state  of  forwardness,  producing 
their  rough  leaves,  they  must  be  thinned  to  two  or  three  in 
each  hill ;  draw  earth  from  time  to  time  round  the  hills,  and 
about  the  roots  of  the  plants.  As  soon  as  the  plants  have 
spread  into  branches,  stop  them  by  pinching  off  the  top  of 
the  first  runner  bud ;  this  will  strengthen  the  plants,  and  pro- 
mote their  perfecting  the  fruit  early ;  after  which  keep  the 
ground  perfectly  free  from  weeds  by  frequent  hoeing. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Melon,  highly  esteemed 


WATER    MELON.  75 

in  Europe,  which  do  not  succeed  in  this  country;  the  gar- 
dener should,  therefore,  plant  only  such  as  have  been  tested 
and  found  to  produce  good  fruit  here,  or  our  superior  old 
sorts  may  become  degenerate.  After  a  judicious  selection 
is  made,  if  caution  be  not  used  to  plant  the  different  sorts 
remote  from  each  other,  and  from  Cucumbers,  Squashes,  and 
Gourds,  degeneracy  will  infallibly  be  the  consequence.  To 
prevent  the  ravages  of  flies,  &c.,  see  General  Remarks,  pages 
19  and  20. 


WATER  MELON. 
MELON  D'EAU.     Cucurbita  citrullus. 

VARIETIES. 

New  Jersey.  I  Goodwin's  Imperial. 

Carolina.  Citron,  for  preserves. 

THE  Water  Melon,  though  by  some  considered  a  species 
of  the  former,  is  a  distinct  genus  of  exotic  plants.  They 
afford  a  very  refreshing  article  of  luxury  in  our  warm  sum- 
mers. Dr.  Pallas,  in  the  account  of  his  journey  to  the 
southern  provinces  of  Russia,  in  1793  and  '94,  speaking  of  a 
colony  of  Moravians  in  Sarepta,  or  Sapa,  on  the  River  Volga, 
says,  "  The  ingenious  inhabitants  of  this  town  brew  a  kind 
of  beer  from  their  very  abundant  and  cheap  Water  Melons, 
with  the  addition  of  Hops ;  they  also  prepare  a  conserve  or 
marmalade  from  this  fruit,  which  is  a  good  substitute  for 
syrup  or  treacle." 

In  order  to  have  Water  Melons  in  perfection,  you  must 
fix  upon  a  piece  of  very  rich  light  soil ;  prepare,  plant  and 
manage  it  in  every  respect  as  is  directed  for  Musk  Melon, 
only,  let  the  hills  be  seven  or  eight  feet  distant  every  way. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  from  forty  to  fifty  hills. 


76  NASTURTIUM,  OR  STURTION. 

MUSTARD. 
MOUTARDE.     Sinapis. 

VARIETIES. 
White.  I  Black. 

THE  Jllba,  or  White  Mustard,  grows  spontaneously  in  the 
fields  of  England ;  it  is  also  cultivated  as  a  small  salad,  as  well 
as  for  seed.  The  seed  yields  from  every  hundred  pounds, 
from  thirty-three  to  thirty-six  pounds  of  sweet  mild  oil. 

White  Mustard  Seed  is  much  used  as  a  medicine,  and  per- 
sons subject  to  disordered  stomachs  often  derive  great  benefit 
by  taking  a  spoonful  of  the  dry  seed,  two  or  three  times  a  day 
Some  use  it  in  pickles,  to  which  it  imparts  an  agreeable  fla- 
vour, and  renders  Cucumbers  in  particular  more  salutary. 

The  JWgrfl  or  Common  Mustard,  is  also  a  native  of  England. 

The  condiment  called  Mustard,  and  in  daily  use  at  our  table 
is  prepared  from  the  seed  of  this  species. 

The  seed,  of  each  variety,  may  be  sown  in  clean  rich 
ground  in  April  and  May;  and  for  a  fall  salad  in  September 
in  shallow  drills. 


NASTURTIUM,  OR  STURTION. 
CAPUCINE.     Tropwolnm. 

THIS  is  an  annual  plant,  a  native  of  Peru,  and  is  highly 
deserving  of  cultivation  for  the  sake  of  its  brilliant  orange 
and  crimson  coloured  flower,  as  well  as  for  the  berries, 
which,  if  gathered  while  green  and  pickled  in  vinegar,  make 
a  good  substrate  for  capers,  and  are  used  in  melted  butter, 
with  boiled  mutton,  &c. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  April,  or  early  in  May,  in 
drills  about  an  inch  deep,  near  fences  or  pales ;  or  trellises 
should  be  constructed,  on  which  they  can  climb  and  have 
support,  for  they  will  always  be  more  productive  in  this  way 
than  when  suffered  to  trail  on  the  ground. 


ONION.  77 

OKRA. 
G-OMBO.     Hibiscus  esculentus. 

THE  green  capsules  of  this  plant  are  used  in  soups,  stews, 
&c.,  to  which  they  impart  a  rich  flavour,  and  are  considered 
nutritious.  Its  ripe  seed,  if  burned  and  ground  like  coffee, 
can  scarcely  be  distinguished  therefrom. 

The  seed  should  be  planted  in  good  rich  ground,  the  first 
or  second  week  in  May,  if  settled  warm  weather,  but  not 
otherwise,  as  it  is  a  very  tender  vegetable.  Draw  drills  about 
an  inch  deep,  and  three  or  four  feet  asunder,  into  which  drop 
the  seed  at  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each 
other,  or  rather  drop  two  or  three  in  each  place,  lest  the  one 
should  not  grow  and  cover  them  nearly  an  inch  deep.  As  the 
plants  advance  in  growth,  thin  them  out,  earth  them  up  two 
or  three  times,  and  they  will  produce  abundantly. 


ONION. 
OIGNON.     JLllium  cepa,  etc.  etc. 


VARIETIES. 


New  England  White. 

Large  Red. 

Yellow,  or  Silver  Skinned. 


Yellow  Dutch. 
Strasburgh,  or  Flanders. 
Madeira. 


OF  the  several  varieties  of  Onions,  the  Yellow  or  Silver 
Skinned,  and  Large  Red,  are  the  best  for  a  general  crop.  The 
bulbs  are  handsome,  of  firm  growth,  and  keep  well  through 
the  winter.  The  New  England  White  are  handsome  for  the 
table,  and  very  suitable  for  pickling,  as  well  as  to  pull  while 
young,  and  generally  prove  a  very  profitable  crop. 

Previous  to  sowing  Onion  seed  for  a  general  crop,  the 
ground  should  be  well  prepared  by  digging  in  some  of  the 
oldest  and  strongest  manure  that  can  be  got.  The  earlier 
this  be  done  in  the  spring,  the  better,  and  the  planting  should 

7* 


78  ONION. 

not  be  delayed  longer  than  the  middle  of  April.  The  seed 
may  be  sown  moderately  thick,  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and 
twelve  inches  apart.* 

'I  hose  who  cultivate  Onions  for  the  sake  of  their  bulbs, 
may  use  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  pounds  of  seed  per  acre. 

As  market  gardeners,  in  the  vicinity  of  large  cities,  find  it 
most  profitable  to  pull  a  great  proportion  of  their  Onions 
while  young,  they  generally  require  at  the  rate  of  from  eight 
to  ten  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre  of  land. 

When  the  plants  are  up  strong,  they  should  be  hoed.  Those 
beds  that  are  to  stand  for  ripening,  should  be  thinned  out  while 
young,  to  the  distance  of  two  or  three  inches  from  each  other. 
If  a  few  should  be  required  for  use  after  this,  those  can  be 
taken  which  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots ;  and  if  the  beds 
be  frequently  looked  over,  and  the  small  and  stalky  plants 
taken  away  where  they  stand  thickest,  the  remaining  bulbs 
will  grow  to  a  larger  size.  The  plants  should  be  hoed  at  least 
three  times  in  the  early  part  of  their  growth ;  but  if  the  season 
prove  damp,  and  weeds  vegetate  luxuriantly,  they  must  be 
removed  by  the  hand,  because  after  the  Onions  have  begun  to 
bulb^it  would  injure  them  to  stir  them  with  a  hoe. 

Whlen  the  greenness  is  gone  out  of  the  tops  of  Onions,  it 
is  time  to  take  them  up ;  for  from  this  time  the  fibrous  roots 
decay.  After  they  are  pulled,  they  should  be  laid  out  to  dry, 
and  when  dry,  removed  to  a  place  of  shelter. 

The  small  Onions  may  be  planted  in  the  following  spring. 
Even  an  Onion  which  is  partly  rotten  will  produce  good  bulbs, 
if  the  seed  stems  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  they  appear. 

*  Onion  seed  may  be  sown  at  any  time  from  March  to  September,  but 
those  only  can  be  depended  upon  for  ripening,  which  are  sown  in  the  first 
and  second  spring  months.  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  Onions  will  not  ripen 
later  than  August  or  the  early  part  of  September,  however  warm  the 
weather  may  be  ;  they  can,  however,  be  preserved  in  the  place  where  they 
grow,  by  spreading  some  short  dung  over  them  in  autumn,  just  sufficient 
to  prevent  their  purging  out  of  the  ground  in  winter.  Onions  thus  pre- 
served, often  prove  more  profitable  to  market  gardeners  in  the  spring,  than 
crops  which  ripen  ;  because  ripe  Onions  are  then  scarce,  and  green  ones 
prove  a  good  substitute  for  Shallots,  Welsh  Onions,  Leeks,  &c. 


PARSLEY.  79 

The  Allium  fistuloswn,  or  Welsh  Onion,  is  cultivated  for 
spring  salad ;  it  forms  no  bulbs,  but  is  very  hardy.  If  the 
seed  be  sown  early  in  September  in  rich  ground,  although 
the  tops  may  die  down  in  the  winter,  yet  the  roots  will  con- 
tinue sound,  and  put  up  new  leaves  early  in  the  spring. 

The  JUllium  cepa,  or  common  White  arid  Red  Onions,  are 
most  generally  cultivated  by  market  gardeners  as  a  substitute 
for  the  Jllimni  fisiulosum ;  they  sow  the  seed  in  the  spring 
and  autumn  months,  the  product  of  which  is  pulled  and  sent 
to  the  market  while  young,  and  generally  meets  with  a  ready 
sale. 

The  Jlllium  proliferum,  or  Tree  Onion,  is  propagated  by 
planting  the  bulbs  in  spring  or  autumn,  either  the  root  bulbs, 
or  those  produced  on  the  top  of  the  stalks ;  the  latter,  if 
planted  in  the  spring,  will  produce  fine  Onions.  These  may 
be  planted  in  rows  with  a  dibble,  the  same  as  Shallots. 

The  Potato  Onion,  Jlllimn  iuberosum,  does  not  produce 
seed  as  other  Onions,  but  it  increases  by  the  root.  One  sin- 
gle Onion,  slightly  covered,  will  produce  six  or  seven  in  a 
clump,  partly  under  ground. 

The  bulbs  are  generally  planted  in  the  spring,  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  apart,  but  they  will  yield  better  when 
planted  in  autumn,  as  they  will  survive  the  winter  if  slightly 
covered  with  dung,  litter,  or  leaves  of  trees,  &c. 


PARSLEY. 
PERSIL.     Jlpium  petroselinum. 

VARIETIES. 

Dwarf  Curled.  j  Single,  or  Common. 

Extra  Curled.  Large  Rooted  Hamburg. 

PARSLEY  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  and  grows  wild  in  moist 
climates,  but  has  been  greatly  improved  by  cultivation.  The 
leaves  of  the  Common  Parsley  are  used  as  a  pot  herb,  and 


80  PARSLEY. 

those  of  the  Extra  Curled  kinds  make  a  fine  garnish.  The 
Large  Rooted  are  generally  cooked  for  the  table  in  autumn 
and  winter,  like  Parsnips. 

As  Parsley  seed,  sown  late  in  the  season,  is  apt  to  lay  in 
the  ground  some  time  before  it  vegetates,  and  often  fails  in 
dry  weather,  the  general  crop  should  be  sown  in  a  cool 
situation  by  the  early  part  of  April,  in  drills  an  inch  deep, 
and  one  foot  asunder,  allowing  at  the  rate  of  about  six  or 
seven  pounds  of  seed  to  the  acre,  or  two  ounces  for  every 
three  perches  of  land.* 

After  the  plants  are  up,  let  them  be  kept  clean  by  frequent 
hoeing.  The  Large  Rooted  Parsley  should  be  thinned  out 
while  young,  and  managed  the  same  as  Carrots  and  Parsnips. 

In  order  to  have  Parsley  green  through  the  winter,  the 
old  leaves  should  be  picked  off  in  September.  If  some  of 
the  roots  be  taken  up  early  in  November,  and  laid  in  a 
frame,  or  light  cellar,  the  leaves  will  keep  green  a  long  time  ; 
tne  remainder  may  be  covered  up  with  straw  in  the  place 
where  it  grows. 

If  Parsley  seed  be  sown  in  frames  in  spring  or  summer, 
it  may  be  preserved  for  winter  use  without  the  trouble  ot 
removing  it. 

*  It  frequently  happens  that  Parsley  seed  will  remain  in  the  ground 
three  or  four  weeks,  without  showing  any  signs  of  vegetation,  and  in  the 
event  of  extreme  dry  weather,  is  apt  to  decay  for  want  of  its  most  essen- 
tial aliment — MOISTURE.  A  few  grains  of  Long  Radish  seed,  sown  about 
an  inch  apart  in  each  drill,  are  well  adapted  to  promote  the  growth  of 
Parsley ;  because  Radish  seed  being  quick  in  germinating,  will  open  the 
pores  of  the  earth  ;  and  the  plants,  as  they  progress  in  growth,  will  create 
a  shade,  sufficient  to  protect  the  Parsley  from  the  full  rays  of  the  sun. 


PARSNIP.  81 

PARSNIP. 
PANAIS.     Pastinaca  saliva. 

VARIETIES. 
Long  Guernsey  Cup.  I          Large  Dutch,  or  Common. 

THIS  is  a  hardy  biennial  plant,  common  in  calcareous 
soils ;  it  has  long  been  an  inmate  of  the  garden,  and  forms  a 
vegetable  dish  in  the  winter,  with  salt  meat,  salted  fish,  &c. 

Parsnip  seed  may  be  planted  from  the  middle  of  March 
till  the  middle  of  May,  in  drills  one  inch  deep  and  fourteen 
inches  apart ;  and  as  this  vegetable  requires  a  long  season 
to  grow  in,  the  sooner  tl^  seed  is  planted  the  better.  Pars- 
nips grow  best  in  a  deep  soil,  which  has  been  well  manured 
the  preceding  fall.  Sow  the  seed  thick  along  the  drills,  at  the 
rate  of  five  or  six  pounds  per  acre,  and  rake  them  in  evenly.* 

When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  thin  them 
to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  in  the  rows.  They 
should  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  by  regular  hoeing  through 
the  summer,  and  in  autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use  ;  but  they 
improve  in  flavour  after  having  been  frozen,  and  will  endure 
the  seventy  of  a  hard  winter.  See  Calendar  for  November. 

Parsnips  require  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes  boiling,  ac- 
cording to  their  size  and  age.  Some  boil  them  in  water 
seasoned  with  salt,  until  tender ;  but  they  are  better  when 
boiled  with  salt  pork,  and  afterward  mashed  and  fried  in 
butter. 


*  The  Parsnip,  although  when  in  full  growth  it  will  endure  the  extremes 
of  heat  and  cold,  requires  peculiar  management  to  promote  and  preserve 
germination  in  an  early  stage  of  culture.  In  order  to  give  the  seed  a  fair 
chance,  it  should  be  planted  in  ground  susceptible  of  moisture,  and  not 
apt  to  encrust  when  dry.  The  seed  should  be  dropped  thick  along  the 
drills,  and  well  covered,  as  single  or  solitary  plants  are  apt  to  perish,  from 
not  having  sufficient  strength  to  open  the  pores  of  the  earth,  and  in  the 
event  of  drought  such  plants  die  off  prematurely.  If  cultivated  in  light 
ground,  it  should  be  rolled  or  pressed  immediately  after  depositing  the  seed 
therein,  but  this  should  not  be  done  while  the  earth  is  wet.  A  few  grains 
of  Long  Radish  seed,  sown  in  each  drill  as  directed  for  Parsley,  will  also 
prove  beneficial  to  Parsnips. 


62  PEPPER. 

PEPPER. 
POIVRE  ou  PIMENT.     Capsicum. 

VARIETIES. 

Grossum,  or  Bell  Pepper.  Long  Red,  or  Bird's  Bill. 

Tomato-shaped,  or  Squash.         |  Cherry,  or  West  Indian. 

Sweet  Spanish;  used  as  a  salad,  has  a  very  delicate  taste. 

THIS  family  of  plants  are  natives  of  the  East  and  West 
Indies  ;  some  of  their  capsules,  or  pods,  are  yellow,  and 
others  red,  when  at  maturity ;  they  are  much  used  for  pick- 
ling, and  should  be  gathered  for  that  purpose  before  they  are 
fully  ripe. 

The  seed  of  the  different  kinds  of  Capsicums  may  be  sown 
in  a  hot-bed  in  March,  or  on  a  warm  border,  early  in  May. 
One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  about  three  thousand  plants. 
When  the  plants  arrive  at  the  height  of  from  one  to  two 
inches,  they  should  be  transplanted  into  good  rich  ground, 
from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  distant  from  each  other. 

Those  who  do  not  want  Peppers  early  in  the  season,  may 
sow  seed  in  the  open  ground  in  May,  in  drills  two  feet  asun- 
der, and  half  an  inch  deep.  When  the  plants  are  grown  an 
inch  or  two  high,  thin  them  to  thu  distance  of  fifteen  or 
eighteen  inches  in  the  rows.  The  ground  should  be  after- 
ward hoed  deep  round  the  plants,  and  kept  free  from  weeds 
by  repeated  hoeings. 

The  Capsicum  Grossum,  or  Bell  Pepper,  is  perennial,  and 
will  keep  in  perpetual  bearing  in  warm  climates.  In  Eng- 
land this  species  is  considered  superior  to  all  others,  on  ac- 
count of  its  skin  being  thick,  and  also  pulpy  and  tender ;  the 
plants  are  therefore  frequently  preserved  in  hot-houses  dur- 
ing the  winter  and  spring,  and  kept  in  the  open  air  in  settled 
warm  weather. 


PEA. 

PEA. 

Piswn  sativum. 

VARIETIES. 


83 


Early  Cedo  Nulli,  or  Race  Horse,  3  ft 
Early  Frame,  2  to  3  feet. 
Early  Warwick,  3  feet. 
Early  Washington,  3  feet. 
Early  Charlton,  3  feet. 
Double  Blossom  Frame,  3  feet. 
Bishop's  Early  Dwarf,  2  feet. 
Dwarf  Prolific,  or  Strawberry,  2  feet. 
Dwarf  Spanish,  or  Fan,   1  to  2  feet. 
Early  Nimble  Dick,  3  feet. 
Dwarf  Blue  Imperial,  2  to  3  feet. 
Waterloo  Blue,  4  feet. 

Albany  Field 


Groom's  Dwarf  Blue  Prolific,  4  ft. 
Dwarf  Blue,  Prussian,  2  to  3  feet 
Dwarf  Marrowfat,  3  to  4  feet 
Ladies'  Finger  Marrows,  4  feet 
Matchless  Marrowfat,  6  feet 
Knight's  Tall  Marrow,  6  feet 
Knight's  Dwarf  Marrow,  3  feet. 
Woodford's  Green  Prolific,  6  feet. 
Large  Grey  Rouncival,  4  feet 
Dwarf  Sugar,  (eatable  pods,)  3  feet 
Tall  Crooked  Pod  Sugar,  6  feet. 
French  Bouquet,  or  Sugar,  3  to  4  ft 
in  varieties. 


THE  above  list  and  description  of  the  most  esteemed  kinds 
of  Pea  are  taken  from  the  catalogue  of  Mr.  G.  C.  Thorburn. 
If  they  are  rightly  described,  they  will  grow  to  different 
heights,  according  to  soil  and  season.  This  description, 
however,  may  serve  as  a  guide  for  the  gardener  in  planting. 
The  Dwarf  Pea  require  less  distance  between  row  and  row, 
and  shorter  sticks  than  the  tall  kinds. 

Planting  the  early  kinds  of  Pea  should  commence  as  soon 
in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  brought  into  good  condi- 
tion ;  all  the  other  sorts,  as  well  as  the  early,  will  answer  for 
successive  crops  ;  to  obtain  which,  a  few  of  the  most  esteemed 
varieties  should  be  planted  at  the  same  time  every  two  weeks, 
from  March  until  the  end  of  May.  Persons  desirous  of 
having  Peas  throughout  the  summer  and  autumn,  may  plant 
a  few  in  June,  July,  and  August.  In  dry  weather  the  Peas 
should  be  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or  six  hours  before  plant- 
ing, and  if  the  ground  be  very  dry,  it  should  be  watered  in 
the  drills. 

Gardeners  practice  different  modes  of  planting  Peas. 
Some  plant  them  in  ridges,  others  in  drills,  some  in  single 
rows,  others  in  double  ;  some  use  sticks  for  the  dwarf  kinds., 
and  others  not ;  those  who  study  neatr.ess  should,  however, 


S4  PEA. 

have  them  all  rodded,  though  the  most  dwarfish  may  do 
without. 

All  the  different  sorts  of  Pea  may  be  planted  in  double  or 
single  rows,  from  four  to  six  feet  apart,  according  to  the 
different  heights  they  may  be  expected  to  grow.  If  two 
drills  be  made  three  inches  deep,  and  about  nine  inches 
apart,  and  the  seed  dropped  along  each  drill  moderately 
thick,  they  will  yield  better  than  single  rows,  and  will  save 
sticks.  When  the  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  let 
them  be  hoed,  drawing,  at  the  same  time,  a  little  earth  up  to 
their  stems ;  when  they  get  to  double  that  height,  let  them 
be  hoed  again ;  at  the  same  time,  place  a  row  of  sticks  in  the 
middle  of  your  double  rows,  and  a  few  shorter  and  smaller 
ones  on  the  outside  of  each  row,  to  assist  the  Peas  in  climb- 
ing to  their  main  support.  You  must  be  governed  as  to  the 
length  of  your  sticks  by  the  description  of  your  Peas.  There 
is  great  advantage  in  having  sticks  of  a  suitable  height  to 
the  various  kinds  of  Peas ;  the  sticks  should  not  only  be  suf- 
ficiently tall,  but  also  branchy,  that  the  plants  may  readily 
take  hold ;  and  they  should  be  prepared  fan  fashion,  so  that 
the  side  branches  may  extend  only  along  the  rows  As  the 
plants  progress  in  growth,  let  them  be  repeatedly  hoed  and 
earthed  up  ;  this  will  promote  a  plentiful  bearing. 

One  quart  of  Peas  will  plant  from  one  hundred  and  fifty 
to  two  hundred  feet  of  row,  allowing  the  largest  kinds  to 
average  one  inch  apart,  and  the  smallest,  two  peas  to  the 
inch.  If  cultivated  on  the  field  system,  one  bushel  will  plant 
an  acre  of  land,  and  produce  about  a  hundred  bushels  of 
green  Peas. 

To  have  green  Peas  in  perfection,  they  should  be  gathered 
while  young,  and  cooked  immediately  after  they  are  shelled, 
or  they  will  soon  lose  their  colour  and  sweetness.  Let  the 
water  be  slightly  seasoned  with  salt,  and  boiled ;  then  put  in 
the  Peas  with  a  small  bunch  of  Spear  Mint,  and  ease  the 
cover  so  as  to  let  off  the  steam ;  they  require  about  fifteen 
minutes  boiling,  or  five  minutes  more  or  less,  according  to 


POTATO.  85 

the  age  and  care  bestowed.     Taste  and  try  in  time,  so  as  to 
have  them  done  to  a  nicety. 

The  Sugar  Peas  have  no  inner  tough  film,  or  skin,  to  the 
pods,  like  the  common  sorts  ;  they  should  therefore  be  boiled 
without  shelling,  and  served  up  the  same  as  Kidney  Beans. 


POTATO. 
POMME  DE  TERRE.     Solatium  Tiiberosum. 

THE  Potato  is  known  to  be  a  native  of  the  southern  parts 
of  America,  but  has  been  greatly  improved  by  cultivation. 

The  varieties  being  very  numerous,  it  is  unnecessary  for 
me  to  point  out  any  particular  kinds ;  some  of  the  earliest 
should,  however,  be  planted  first  in  the  spring,  to  produce 
young  Potatoes  in  due  season ;  but  they  are  not  so  suitable 
for  a  full  crop  as  the  late  varieties. 

Potatoes  being  of  such  extensive  utility,  various  expedients 
have  been  contrived  with  a  view  to  find  out  the  best  method 
of  preparing  the  seed.  In  many  parts  of  England,  (where 
Potatoes  equal  to  any  in  the  world  are  raised,)  the  farmers 
seldom  plant  them  whole ;  they  take  the  Potatoes  as  they 
come  to  hand,  and  in  cutting  them,  take  care  to  have  two 
good  eyes  in  each  set;  the  small  Potatoes  are  deprived  of 
the  sprout  or  nose  end,  as  it  is  generally  considered  that  a 
redundancy  of  eyes  exhausts  the  set,  and  produces  weak 
plants,  which  are  not  calculated  to  yield  a  full  crop.  I  have 
frequently  known  from  five  to  six  hundred  bushels  raised 
from  an  acre  with  small  Potatoes  alone  cut  in  this  way. 
Some  prefer  planting  the  sets  immediately  after  they  are 
cut ;  the  better  way  is  to  get  them  cut  a  week  before  the 
time  of  planting,  and  to  lay  them  out  on  a  barn,  or  garret 
floor,  to  dry. 

It  will  require  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bushels  of  Potatoes 
to  plant  an  acre  of  ground,  according  to  the  size  and  naturo 

8 


86  POTATO. 

of  the  seed  roots,  the  manner  of  preparing,  and  mode  of 
planting  the  same. 

Potatoes  may  be  planted  from  the  first  week  in  April  until 
July,  either  in  hills  or  drills ;  the  best  way  for  a  garden  is  to 
plant  them  in  drills  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and  about  thirty 
inches  asunder ;  the  sets  may  be  dropped  six  or  eight  inches 
apart;  and  if  a  small  quantity  of  combmaker's  horn  shavings 
or  sea  weed  be  used  as  a  manure  for  the  early  kinds,  it  will 
expedite  their  growth ;  the  ground  should  be  hoed  as  soon 
as  the  plants  come  up,  and  as  they  progress  in  growth  it 
will  be  proper  to  mould  or  earth  them  up  twice.  % 


POTATO,  (Sweet.) 

POMME  DE  TERRE  DOUCE.        Convolvulus 

SWEET  Potatoes  are  grown  to  great  perfection  in  the 
Southern  States,  and  may  be  raised  in  the  vicinity  of  New- 
\Tork,  by  means  of  a  moderate  hot-bed,  in  which  they  should 
be  planted  whole,  early  in  April,  three  or  four  inches  deep, 
and  about  the  same  distance  apart.  In  about  a  month  they 
will  throw  up  sprouts.  When  these  are  three  inches  above 
ground,  part  them  off  from  the  Potato,  which,  if  suffered  to 
remain,  will  produce  more  sprouts  for  a  successive  planting ; 
transplant  them  into  rich  light  soil,  in  rows  four  feet  apart, 
and  the  plants  about  a  foot  apart  in  the  rows,  or  in  hills  four 
feet  apart.  Keep  them  clear  of  weeds  until  the  vines  begin 
to  cover  the  ground,  after  which  they  will  grow  freely.  In 
sandy  ground,  it  is  well  to  put  a  shovelful  of  rotten  manure 
to  each  plant. 

A  moderate  hot-bed,  five  feet  square,  put  down  early  in 
the  month  of  April,  with  half  a  peck  of  good  sound  Sweet 
Potatoes  placed  therein,  will  produce  a  succession  of  sprouts 
in  May  and  June,  which  if  planted  and  managed  as  directed, 
will  yield  about  fifteen  bushels  of  good  roots. 


PUMPKIN.  87 

PUMPKIN. 
CITROUILLE  ou  PoTiRON.     Gucurbita  pepo. 

VARIETIES. 

Finest  Cheese,  or  Family.        1  Connecticut  Field. 

Mammoth,  or  Spanish.  j  White  Bell 

THIS  plant  is  highly  deserving  of  cultivation,  particularly 
in  new  settlements  ;  the  large  sorts  are  profitable  for  cattle, 
as  some  of  the  mammoth  tribe  have  been  known  to  weigh 
upward  of  two  hundred  pounds  each ;  the  other  kinds  are 
also  very  productive,  and  may  be  raised  on  any  waste  land, 
provided  it  will  admit  of  digging  small  spots,  of  the  dimen- 
sions of  one  or  two  feet,  every  ten  or  twelve  feet,  for  the 
hills,  and  the  residue  of  the  ground  be  unencumbered  for 
the  plants  to  run  on.  They  are  generally  raised,  on  culti- 
vated farms,  between  hills  of  Indian  Corn,  and  may  be 
planted  in  the  garden  or  open  field,  in  May  and  June,  in  hills 
eight  or  ten  feet  apart,  with  three  or  four  seed  in  each  hill. 

One  quart  of  Field  Pumpkin  seed  will  plant  from  five  to 
six  hundred  hills.  An  ounce  of  the  finer  kinds  will  plant  from 
fifty  to  eighty  hills. 

Pumpkins  are  not  so  tenacious  of  a  particular  soil  as  either 
Melons  or  Cucumbers,  but  in  other  respects  are  cultivated  in 
the  same  manner,  only  that  in  raising  them  on  a  large  scale 
the  ground  may  be  prepared  with  a  plough,  and  afterward, 
as  the  weeds  advance,  the  plough  and  harrow  may  be  used 
between  the  plants  until  they  begin  to  run,  which  will  save 
much  labour. 

The  finest  quality  of  Pumpkins  are  known  to  make  good 
pies,  and  may  also,  after  being  boiled,  be  worked  up  with 
wheaten  flour  into  bread,  for  which  purpose  they  are  fully 
equal  to  Indian  meal.  The  knowledge  of  this  fact  may  prove 
advantageous  to  farmers  living  at  a  distance  from  cities,  as 
they  may  find  a  market  for  their  grain  or  meal  readier  than 
for  their  Pumpkins. 


88  RADISH. 

RADISH. 
RADIS  ou  RAVE.      Raphanus  sativus. 


VARIETIES. 


Long  Scarlet. 
Long  Purple. 
Scarlet.  Pear-shape. 
Scarlet  Turnip. 
White  Turnip-rooted. 


Long  White  Naples. 
Purple  Turnip. 
Yellow  Turnip. 
White  Spanish. 
Black  Spanish. 


THE  different  varieties  of  Radish  are  extensively  cultivated 
near  large  cities,  chiefly  for  their  roots,  which  are  considered 
a  luxury  after  a  hard  winter,  and  prove  acceptable  as  warm 
weather  approaches,  provided  they  can  be  obtained  in  per- 
fection. The  plant  is  also  cultivated  for  the  sake  of  the  seed 
leaves,  which  are  used  as  a  small  salad ;  and  even  the  seed 
pods,  if  pickled  while  young  and  green,  are  considered  by 
some  a  good  substitute  for  Capers. 

Those  who  may  be  desirous  of  having  good  Radishes 
early  in  the  spring,  should  have  a  warm  border  prepared  in 
the  very  best  manner,  so  as  to  be  ready  to  sow  some  of  the 
Short  Top  Scarlet  by  the  middle  of  March.  If  the  ground 
should  not  be  in  good  condition  to  receive  the  seed  at  this 
time,  let  it  be  delayed  a  few  days ;  and  by  the  first  of  April, 
have  another  bed  prepared  in  the  open  ground,  by  digging 
in  some  good  strong  manure.  The  seed  may  be  sown  broad- 
cast, and  raked  in  evenly,  or  in  drills  drawn  about  one  inch 
deep,  and  a  foot  apart.* 

If  you  wish  to  have  Radishes  in  regular  succession,  sow 
seed  of  the  most  esteemed  varieties  every  two  weeks,  until 
the  middle  of  May  :  if  any  be  sown  after  this,  it  should  be 
the  kinds  described  in  the  second  column  of  our  Catalogue. 


*  In  the  seasons  for  planting  Carrot,  Parsnip,  Parsley,  Leek,  Celery,  and 
such  other  seed  as  are  tardy  in  germinating,  a  few  grains  of  Radish  seed 
dropped  in  each  drill  will  produce  good  roots,  and  this  crop  will  prove 
beneficial  to  those  above  enumerated,  because  the  rows  can  be  traced  by 
the  Radishes,  which  being  of  quick  growth,  may  be  pulled  by  the  time  the 
other  plants  are  in  full  leaf. 


ROCAMBOLE.  89 

These  will  endure  the  heat  better  than  the  others,  and  may 
be  sown  in  drills,  in  small  quantities,  throughout  the  summer, 
until  the  latter  end  of  August,  when  all  the  varieties  may  be 
sown  in  regular  succession  till  the  first  of  October.  Market 
gardeners  may  prepare  the  ground  with  a  plough,  and  cover 
such  seed  as  may  be  sown  broad-cast  with  a  harrow. 

For  early  spring  crops,  the  seed  may  be  sown  broad-cast, 
at  the  rate  of  from  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  to  the  acre, 
and  about  half  that  quantity  will  be  sufficient,  in  drills  drawn 
a  foot  apart.  Of  the  large  late  kinds,  five  pounds  to  the  acre 
will  be  enough,  if  sown  regularly  in  drills,  as  directed. 

It  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  gardener  of  the 
necessity  of  sowing  tobacco  dust,  soot,  ashes,  &c.,  over  his 
seed  beds,  in  hot,  dry  weather,  or  he  will  find  it  difficult  to 
raise  Radishes  in  unpropitious  seasons.  [See  article  Turnip, 
also  page  19  of  the  General  Remarks.] 


ROCAMBOLE. 
AIL  D'ESPAGNE.     Jlllium  scorodoprassum. 

THIS  and  the  Jlllium  sativum,  or  common  Garlic,  are  raised 
in  some  gardens.  Many  people  consider  the  Rocambole  to 
be  of  a  milder  and  better  flavour  than  Garlic,  but  the  bulbs 
are  not  so  large. 

The  plants  are  very  hardy,  and  will  grow  in  almost  any 
soil  or  situation.  They  may  be  propagated  either  by  the 
roots  or  seed ;  the  former  ought  to  be  separated  and  planted 
at  the  same  time,  and  in  the  same  manner,  as  Shallots. 

If  raised  from  seed,  they  may  be  sown  in  drills,  either 
shortly  after  the  seed  is  ripe,  or  in  the  succeeding  spring ; 
they  require  only  to  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing autumn  may  be  taken  up,  the  bulbs  parted,  and 
planted  as  before. 


8* 


90  RHUBARB. 

RHUBARB. 
RHUBARBE.      Rheum. 

RHUBARB  is  a  genus  of  exotic  plants,  comprising  seven 
species,  of  which  the  following  are  the  principal : 

1.  Rhaponticum,  or  Common  Rhubarb,  a  native  of  Thrace 
and  Syria,  has  long  been  cultivated  in  British  gardens  for 
the  footsalks  of  the  leaves,  which  are  frequently  used  in  pies 
and  tarts. 

2.  Rheum  nndulatum  is  also  cultivated  for  the  same  use. 

3.  The  Palmatum,  or  true  Officinale  Rhubarb,  is  a  native 
of  China  and  the  East  Indies,  whence  its  culture  has  been 
introduced  into  Europe  :   it  produces   a  thick,   fleshy  root, 
externally  yellowish  brown,  but  internally  of  a  bright  yellow 
colour,  streaked  with  red  veins.    It  grows  to  great  perfection 
in  Scotland,  as  far  north  as  Perthshire,  (lat.  56,)  and  in  Eng- 
land, Turkey,  and  various  other  parts  of  Europe.     When 
the  importance  of  this  root  as  a  medicine  is  considered,  it  is 
a  matter  of  astonishment  that  it  has  not  been  more  generally 
introduced  into  the  United  States. 

The  several  kinds  of  Rhubarb  may  be  propagated  by  off- 
sets taken  from  the  roots  early  in  the  spring,  or  from  seed 
sown  late  in  autumn,  or  in  March  and  April,  in  drills  one 
inch  deep  and  a  foot  apart.  The  indispensable  points  to  the 
production  of  good  roots  of  the  Patmatum,  are  depth  and 
richness  of  soil,  which  should  be  well  pulverized  before  the 
plants  are  set  out.  Prepare  beds  of  fine  mould  eighteen 
inches  deep ;  in  these  put  in  the  plants  from  the  seed-bed, 
ten  or  twelve  inches  apart ;  this  must  be  done  when  they 
have  attained  the  height  of  four  or  five  inches,  and  have 
thrown  out  as  many  leaves. 

The  first  season  is  the  most  critical,  and  much  care  is  ne- 
cessary. If  the  weather  be  hot,  the  nursery  must  be  shaded, 
and  at  all  events  frequently  watered;  for  water,  though 
hurtful  to  old  plants,  is  now  of  the  first  importance.  Wet 
weather  is  the  most  proper  time  in  which  to  plant.  The 


RHUBARB.  91 

beds  must  be  kept  free  from  weeds  during  the  summer,  and 
on  the  approach  of  severe  weather,  covered  up  with  light 
litter.  In  the  early  part  of  spring,  this  must  be  taken  off, 
and  in  the  beginning  of  April  the  plants  must  be  transplanted 
into  ground  dug  and  prepared  as  directed  for  Asparagus. 

Those  who  cultivate  the  Palmaium  for  the  sake  of  the 
roots,  should  dig  the  ground  two  or  three  spades  deep,  and 
place  the  plants  three  feet  apart  every  way.  As  to  the  other 
varieties,  it  is  not  so  particular,  only  the  plants  must  have 
room  in  which  to  grow.  In  the  early  part  of  November,  the 
leaves  being  then  decayed,  the  beds  should  be  covered  with 
dry  litter ;  before  this  is  done,  a  little  earth  should  be  drawn 
round  the  crowns  of  the  plants.  If  there  be  any  danger  of 
water  lodging,  make  trenches  to  carry  it  off.  In  the  month 
of  March,  the  beds  should  be  stripped  of  their  covering,  and 
the  ground  well  hoed  and  cleared  of  weeds. 

The  roots  of  the  Palmatnm  must  not  be  taken  up  until  six 
or  seven  years  old.  The  stalks  of  the  other  kinds  may  be 
cut  every  spring,  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  expanded. 

If  Rhubarb  stalks  be  required  for  use  early  in  the  spring, 
they  may  be  obtained  by  placing  flour  barrels  or  deep  tubs 
over  some  of  the  plants,  anoV  covering  them  up  with  fresh 
stable  dung,  or  by  any  of  the  methods  pointed  out  in  the 
article  under  the  head  of  Forcing  Vegetables. 

The  stalks  of  this  plant  are  used  for  pies  and  tarts.  After 
being  stripped  of  the  skin,  or  outer  covering,  and  divested 
of  the  small  fibres,  or  stringiness  to  which  the  plant  is  liable, 
in  an  advanced  stage  of  growth,  the  stalks  should  be  cut 
transversely  into  very  small  pieces,  and  then  parboiled  with 
sugar,  and  such  spices  as  best  suit  the  palate.  Rhubarb  will 
keep  this  way  the  same  as  other  preserves,  and  may  be  used 
not  only  in  pies  and  tarts,  but  it  makes  an  excellent  pudding, 
which  is  done  by  flattening  a  suety  crust  with  a  rolling-pin, 
then  spreading  on  the  fruit,  rolling  it  up  in  an  oval  shape, 
and  boiling  it  in  a  cloth.  Prepared  in  this  way,  the  fruit 
retains  its  virtues,  and  the  pudding  may  be  served  up  hot,  in 


92  SALSIFY. 

slices  of  from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  thick,  with  butter  and 
sugar  spread  between  the  layers. 

Some  boil  the  stalks  to  a  juice,  which  being  strained 
through  a  colander,  will  keep  for  years,  if  well  spiced  and 
seasoned  with  sugar. 

In  England,  large  drying  houses  have  been  erected  for  the 
purpose  of  curing  the  roots  of  the  Palmalum ;  but  this  busi- 
ness may  be  done  in  this  country  as  it  is  done  in  China :  by 
the  heat  of  the  sun.  After  the  roots  have  been  well  washed, 
and  the  small  fibres  cut  off,  they  are  to  be  cut  transversely 
into  pieces  about  two  inches  thick,  and  dried  on  boards,  turn- 
ing them  several  times  a  day,  in  order  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  the  yellow  juice,  on  which  its  medicinal  qualities  depend. 
In  four  or  five  days  they  may  be  strung  upon  strings,  and 
suspended  in  a  shady  but  airy  and  dry  situation,  and  in  two 
months  afterward  they  will  be  fit  for  the  market. 


SALSIFY. 
SALSIFIS  ou  CERCIFIS.      Tragopogon  porrifolius. 

THIS  plant  grows  spontaneously  in  the  open  fields  of  Eng- 
land, and  is  by  some  highly  valued  for  its  white  edible  root, 
and  for  the  young  shoots  rising  in  the  spring  from  plants  a 
year  old ;  these,  when  gathered  while  green  and  tender,  are 
good  to  boil  and  eat  in  the  same  manner  as  Asparagus. 
Some  have  carried  their  fondness  for  this  plant  so  far  as  to 
call  it  Vegetable  Oyster.  It  requires  the  same  kind  of  soil 
and  management  as  Carrots  and  Parsnips. 

The  seed  maybe  sown  at  anytime  in  April  and  May,  an  inch 
deep,  in  drills  twelve  inches  apart.  When  the  plants  are  two 
or  three  inches  high,  they  should  be  thinned  to  the  distance  of 
six  inches  from  each  other,  and  afterward  hoed.  The  ground 
should  be  kept  clean  and  loose  round  the  plants,  by  repeated 
hoeing ;  in  the  autumn  they  will  be  fit  for  use.  The  roots 


SCORZONERA.  93 

may  be  taken  up  late  in  autumn,  and  secured  in  moist  sand 
from  the  air ;  or  suffered  to  remain  out,  and  dug  up  when 
wanted. 

As  the  seed  of  Salsify  do  not  all  ripen  uniformly,  it  should 
be  sown  moderately  thick.  To  insure  a  regular  crop,  five 
or  six  pounds  may  be  allowed  for  an  acre  of  ground,  or  two 
ounces  for  every  three  perches 

The  mode  of  cooking  recommended  by  an  American  au- 
thor is,  "  To  cut  the  roots  transversely  into  thin  pieces ;  boil 
them  in  water,  or  milk  and  water;  when  boiled  soft,  nmsh  ' 
them,  and  thicken  the  whole  with  flour  to  some  degree  of 
stiffness ;  then  fry  them  in  the  fat  of  salt  pork,  or  butter , 
they  are  a  luxury." 

In  England  the  tops  are  considered  excellent  food  when 
boiled  tender,  and  served  up  with  poached  eggs  and  melted 
butter.  They  are  by  some  considered  salutary  for  persons 
inclined  to  consumption.  Those  afflicted  with  any  symp- 
toms indicating  the  approach  of  that  complaint,  cannot  harm 
themselves  by  eating  the  tops,  when  they  are  to  be  got,  which 
is  in  the  month  of  April ;  and  if  the  roots  are  ea.ten  when 
attainable,  they  may,  perhaps,  answer  a  still  better  purpose, 
and  even  the  liquor  in  which  they  are  boiled  may  possess 
some  of  the  most  valuable  properties  of  the  plant. 


SCORZONERA. 

i 
SCORSONERE.     Scorzonera  Hispanica. 

THIS  plant  has  long  been  raised  in  British  gardens,  for 
culinary  purposes,  and  especially  as  an  ingredient  in  soups, 
on  account  of  its  palatable  and  nourishing  roots.  Some  boil 
and  eat  them  like  Carrots,  &c. ;  in  which  case  they  should 
be  deprived  of  their  rind,  and  immersed  in  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour,  or  they  will  be  bitter.  They  are  raised  pre- 
cisely in  the  same  manner  as  Salsify.  If  the  seed  be  sown  in 


94  SEA-KALE. 

April,  in  a  good  deep  soil,  the  roots  will  attain  perfection  in 
autumn,  and  continue  good  all  the  winter.  They  last  from 
three  to  four  years,  according  to  the  quality  of  the  earth  and 
the  care  bestowed  upon  them ;  but  it  is  better  to  raise  a  few 
from  seed  every  year. 


SEA-KALE. 
• 

CHOU  MARIN.      Crambe  maritima. 

THIS  plant  is  found  on  the  sea-shore,  in  the  southern  part* 
of  England,  where  it  grows  spontaneously.  As  soon  as  it 
appears  above  ground,  the  inhabitants  remove  the  pebbles 
or  sand  with  which  it  is  usually  covered,  to  the  depth  of  sev- 
eral inches,  and  cut  off  the  young  and  tender  leaves  and 
stalks,  as  yet  uiiexpanded  and  in  a  blanched  state,  close  to 
the  crown  of  the  root ;  it  is  then  in  its  greatest  perfection. 
When  the  leaves  are  full  grown,  they  become  hard  and  bit- 
ter, and  the  plant  is  not  eatable. 

It  is  cultivated  in  private  gardens,  and  for  sale,  in  various 
parts  of  England.  Cultivators  have  differed  widely  respect- 
ing the  mode  of  treating  this  plant ;  many  conceiving  that 
stones,  gravel,  and  sea  sand  are  essential  to  its  growth,  have 
gone  to  the  expense  of  providing  them  ;  but  it  has  been  dis- 
covered that  it  will  grow  much  more  luxuriantly  in  a  rich 
sandy  loam,  where  the  roots  can  penetrate  to  a  great  depth. 

The  seed  of  Sea-Kale  may  be  sown  in  October,  or  as  early 
in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  'be  brought  into  good  condi- 
tion, in  drills  an  inch  and  a  half  deep,  and  fourteen  or  six- 
teen inches  asunder;  the  plants  should  afterward  be  thinned 
out  to  the  distance  of  six  or  eight  inches  from  each  other  in 
the  rows,  and  kept  clear  of  weeds  by  frequent  hoeing  through 
the  summer.  When  the  plants  are  a  year  old,  every  third 
row  may  be  taken  up,  and  also  every  other  plant  in  each 
row,  leaving  them  fourteen  or  sixteen  inches  apart ;  these 


SEA-KALE. 


95 


may  be  transplanted  into  good  ground  prepared  as  directed 
for  Asparagus.  Plant  two  rows  in  each  bed,  about  eighteen 
inches  apart ;  the  best  way  is  to  make  two  drills  three  inches 
deep,  and  with  a,  dibble  set  in  the  plants  fifteen  or  sixteen 
inches  from  each  other;  when  these  drills  are  filled,  the 
crowns  of  the  plants  will  be  covered  nearly  two  inches,  but 
they  will  soon  push  through  the  earth.  The  plants  left  in 
the  seed-bed  may  form  a  permanent  bed,  which  should  be 
forked  or  dug  between  the  rows  ;  previous  to  this  being  done, 
lay  on  an  inch  or  two  of  good  rotten  manure,  and  incorporate 
it  with  the  earth  around  the  plants. 

Some  make  new  plantations  of  the  old  roots,  which  should 
be  cut  up  into  pieces  of  about  twro  inches  in  length,  and 
planted  in  March  or  April,  three  or  four  inches  deep,  at  the 
distance  before  directed  for  the  plants. 

At  the  approach  of  winter  the  leaves  will  die  away,  and 
disappear.  The  beds  should  then  be  thickly  covered  with 
dung,  leaves,  or  sea-weed ;  this  will  not  only  protect  the 
plants  from  frost,  but  will  cause  them  to  shoot  up  early  in 
the  spring.  As  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground,  this 
may  be  taken  off,  or,  if  well  rotted,  it  may  be  mixed  up  with 
the  earth ;  the  crowns  of  the  plants  should  then  be.  covered 
to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  for  blanching. 

Some  blanch  it  by  heaping  on  it  sea  sand ;  some  common 
sand  and  gravel ;  and  others  with  large  garden  pots,  inverted 
and  placed  immediately  over  the  plants.  If  these  pots  be 
covered  up  with  fresh  horse  dung,  it  will  forward  the  shoots 
in  growth,  and  make  them  sweeter  and  more  tender. 

When  your  plants  have  been  covered  in  either  method 
three  or  four  weeks,  examine  them,  and  if  you  find  that  the 
stalks,  have  shot  up  three  or  £our  inches,  you  may  begin  cut- 
ting ;  should  you  wait  till  all  the  shoots  are  of  considerable 
length,  your  crop  will  come  in  too  much  at  once,  for  in  this 
plant  there  is  not  that  successsive  growth  which  there  is  in 
Asparagus  ;  you  may  continue  cutting  until  you  see  the  heads 
of  flowers  begin  to  form ;  and  if  at  this  time  you  uncover  it 


96  SEA-KALE. 

entirely,  and  let  it  proceed  to  that  state  in  which  Broccoli  is 
usually  cut,  and  use  it  as  such,  you  will  find  it  an  excellent 
substitute  ;  and  this  greatly  enhances  the  value  of  the  plant ; 
as  Broccoli  does  not  stand  our  winter  frosts,  and  can  only  be 
had  wrhen  carefully  protected,  as  recommended  when  treat- 
ing of  that  vegetable ;  but  Sea-Kale  is  sufficiently  hardy  to 
bear  our  winter  frosts,  without  much  injury.  You  are  not 
to  weaken  the  roots  too  much  by  over-cutting,  for  in  that  case 
it  would  injure  their  next  year's  bearing  :  some  of  the  shoots 
should  be  allowed  to  grow,  to  carry  on  a  proper  vegetation, 
and  strengthen  and  enlarge  the  roots.  Great  care  should  be 
taken  in  cutting,  not  to  injure  the  crowns  of  the  roots  by  cut- 
ting the  shoots  too  close  to  them.  Sea-Kale  should  be  dressed 
soon  after  it  is  cut,  as  the  goodness  of  the  article  greatly  de- 
pends on  its  not  being  long  exposed  to  the  air. 

If  you  choose  to  force  Sea-Kale,  dig  a  trench  all  round  a 
small  bed,'  about  three  feet  wide,  and  thirty  inches  deep  ;  fill 
it  with  hot  dung,  and  as  it  sinks,  raise  it.  This  will  make 
the  plants  grow ;  and  if  hand  lights  are  set  over  them,  it 
will  accelerate  their  growth. 

To  have  this  rare  vegetable  in  perfection,  it  should  be 
cooked  as  soon  as  gathered.  Let  it  be  first  soaked  in  water, 
seasoned  with  salt,  for  half  an  hour ;  then  wash  it  in  fresh 
water,  and  put  it  into  the  cooking  utensil ;  keep  it  boiling 
briskly,  skim  clean,  and  let  off  steam.  When  the  stalks  are 
tender,  which  may  be  expected  in  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five 
minutes,  according  to  size  and  age,  take  it  up,  dish  it,  and 
serve  it  up  with  melted  butter,  gravy,  and  such  condiments 
as  are  most  agreeable  to  the  palate. 


SHALLOT.  97 

SKIRRET. 
CHERVIS,  ou  GYROLE.     Slum  sisarym. 

THIS  plant  is  first  cultivated  by  seed,  and  afterward  by  off- 
sets taken  from  the  old  roots,  and  planted  very  early  in  the 
spring,  before  they  begin  to  shoot ;  but  it  is  best  to  raise  a 
small  bed  from  seed  every  year,  as  the  roots  grow  longer 
than  those  raised  from  slips,  and  are  less  liable  to  be  sticky. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  the  latter  part  of  March, 
or  early  in  April,  and  managed  the  same  as  Salsify,  Parsnip, 
&c.  In  autumn,  when  the  leaves  begin  to  decay,  the  roots  are 
fit  to  use,  and  continue  so  till  they  begin  to  shoot  in  the  spring. 

Skirrets  should  be  planted  in  a  light,  moist  soil,  for  in  dry 
land  the  roots  are  generally  small,  unless  the  season  proves  wet. 

The  root  of  the  Skirret  is  composed  of  several  fleshy 
tubers  as  large  as  a  man's  finger,  and  joined  together  at  the 
top.  They  are  eaten~boiled,  and  stewed  with  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt,  or  rolled  in  flour  and  fried,  or  else  cold,  with  oil 
and  vinegar,  being  first  boiled.  They  have  much  of  the  taste 
and  flavour  of  a  Parsnip,  and  are  by  some  considered  a  great 
deal  more  palatable. 


SHALLOT. 
ECHALOTE.     Jillium  ascalonicum. 

THE  true  Shallot  is  a  native  of  Palestine,  and  is  considered 
to  possess  the  most  agreeable  flavour  of  any  of  the  Jlllium 
genus ;  it  is  consequently  highly  deserving  of  cultivation. 

It  is  propagated  by  planting  bulbs,  or  offsets,  in  the  fall  of 
the  year,  which. may  be  set  out  with  a  dibble,  in  rows  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  from  four  to  six  inches  distant  in  the  rows  ; 
or  they  may  be  placed  in  drills,  two  or  three  inches  deep, 
and  covered  up  with  a  trowel  or  hoe. 

The  gardeners  about  New- York  plant  large  quantities  of 
the  bulbs  toward  the  end  of  August,  and  early  in  Septem- 


98  SPINACH,    OR    SPINAGE. 

ber ;  by  this  means  they  are  enabled  to  supply  the  market 
in  April  and  May  with  a  mild  Jlllium,  which  while  green 
meets  a  ready  sale. 

Those  intended  for  seed  may  remain  in  the  ground  until 
June  or  July ;  after  the  tops  have  decayed,  the  bulbs  must 
be  taken  up,  and  the  offsets  divided  :  these  should  be  kept  in 
a  dry  place  to  plant  the  ensuing  autumn. 

It  will  require  at  least  four  bushels  of  bulbs,  if  measured 
when  first  taken  from  the  ground,  to  plant  a  quarter  of  an 
acre ;  because  after  they  are  trimmed  and  deprived  of  their 
seed  stalks,  the  bulk  will  be  reduced  one  half. 


SPINACH,  OR  SPINAGE. 
EPINARD.     Spinacia. 

VARIETIES. 

Large  Round-leaved.  1          Holland,  or  Lamb's  Quarter 

Broad-leaved  Savoy.  New  Zealand. 

THE  Spinacia  oleracea.  or  common  Spinach,  is  very  hardy, 
and  consequently  a  very  important  vegetable  for  cold  cli- 
mates. It  merits  attention  from  its  being  extremely  whole- 
some and  palatable,  and  from  its  keeping  green  even  after 
having  been  cooked.  It  makes  a  delicious  dish  when  served 
up  with  the  gravy  of  roast  meat,  melted  butter,  &c. 

As  Spinach  is  the  only  vegetable  that  can  be  raised  to  ad- 
vantage the  latter  end  of  the  year,  the  gardener  should,  to- 
wards the  end  of  August,  prepare  such  ground  as  may  have 
been  occupied  by  summer  crops,  and  by  having  it  well  ma- 
nured for  this  crop,  it  will  be  in  good  condition  for  Beets, 
Carrots,  Parsnips,  Turnips,  &c.,  the  spring  following. 

If  the  ground  be  got  ready,  so  as  to  have  several  beds 
sown  in  succession,  from  the  first  to  the  end  of  September, 
the  most  forward  of  these,  if  covered  up  with  straw  at  the 
approach  of  cold  weather,  will  furnish  greens  for  the  table 
when  other  vegetables  are  scarce,  and  the  later  crops  will 


SPINACH,    OR    SPINAGE.  99 

recover  the  effects  of  a  hard  winter,  and  produce  a  whole- 
some vegetable  early  in  the  spring. 

If  Spinach  seed  be  sown  in  rich  ground  in  March  and 
April,  it  will  grow  freely,  but  it  must  be  cut  before  the  ap- 
proach of  hot  weather,  or  it  will  run  to  seed.  To  raise  it  in 
perfection  at  this  season,  it  should  be  sown  in  drills  about  a 
foot  apart,  and  be  frequently  hoed ;  this  will  keep  it  in  a 
growing  state,  and,  consequently,  prevent  its  running  up  to 
seed  as  quick  as  it  otherwise  would. 

It  is  altogether  useless  to  sow  Spinach  seed  in  poor  ground; 
let  the  ground  be  well  manured  with  good  strong  dung,  and  it 
will  well  reward  you  for  your  trouble  by  its  abundant  produce. 

If  Spinach  be  cultivated  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  it  will  re- 
quire from  seven  to  eight  pounds  of  seed  to  plant  an  acre 
of  ground.  Some  gardeners  use  more  than  double  that 
quantity  in  sowing  broad-cast. 

Be  careful  to  pick  Spinach  exceedingly  clean,  and  wash 
it  in  five  or  six  waters  previous  to  cooking  it.  Some  cook 
Spinach  in  a  steamer  over  boiling  water,  others  boil  it  in 
water  ;  but  the  best  way  is  to  put  it  into  a  saucepan  that  will 
just  hold  it,  without  water,  then  strew  a  little  salt  upon  it, 
and  cover  it  close.  Put  your  saucepan  on  a  clear  quick  fire ; 
and  when  you  find  the  Spinach  shrunk  and  fallen  to  the  bot- 
tom, and  the  juice  which  comes  from  it  boil  up,  it  is  done. 
In  order  that  it  may  be  rendered  capable  of  absorbing  a 
moderate  quantity  of  gravy,  melted  butter,  &c.,  which  are 
indispensable  with  green  vegetables,  let  it  be  well  drained 
in  a  sieve,  or  colander,  before  it  is  dished. 

The  New  Zealand  Spinach,  or  Tetragona  expansa,  is  not 
much  cultivated  in  this  country ;  its  nature  seems  to  be  op- 
posite to  the  common  Spinach,  as  it  will  endure  the  heat 
better  than  the  cold.  It  may  be  obtained  in  the  summer, 
by  planting  the  seed  in  April  and  May.  Being  of  luxuriant 
growth,  it  should  be  planted  in  hills  three  feet  apart,  and 
about  two  seed  in  a  hill.  The  leaves  will  be  fit  for  use  dur- 
ing the  summer,  and  until  late  in  the  autumn. 


100  SQUASH. 

SQUASH. 
GOURDE  GIRAUMON  ou  POTIRON.     Cucurbita  melopepa. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Bush  Scollop. 
Green  Striped  Bush. 
Early  Crookneck. 
Large  Cushaw. 


Vegetable  Marrow. 
Winter   Crookneck. 
Lima  Cocoanut. 
Acorn,  or  California. 


THE  several  varieties  of  Squash  are  very  useful  in  this  and 
other  warm  climates,  as  they  can  be  grown  in  perfection  in 
the  summer,  and  therefore  prove  a  good  substitute  for  Tur- 
nips, which  cannot  be  raised  in  perfection  in  hot  weather. 
They  should  be  planted  in  May  and  June,  in  hills,  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  Cucumbers  and  Melons,  and  their 
subsequent  management  is  the  same  in  every  respect.  The 
bush  kinds  should  be  planted  three  or  four  feet  apart,  and 
the  running  kinds  from  six  to  nine,  according  to  their  nature, 
as  some  will  run  more  than  others.  It  is  always  best  to 
plant  five  or  six  seed  in  a  hill,  to  guard  against  accidents ;  as 
when  the  plants  are  past  danger,  they  can  be  thinned  to  two 
or  three  in  a  hill.  One  ounce  of  Squash  seed  will  plant  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  hills,  according  to  the  sorts  and  size  of  the 
seed. 

The  fruit  of  the  Early  Summer  Squash  is  generally  gath 
ered  for  use  before  the  skin  gets  hard,  and  while  it  is  so  ten 
der  as  to  give  way  to  a  moderate  pressure  of  the  thumb  nail. 
The  Winter  Squashes  should  be  suffered  to  ripen,  and  collect- 
ed together  in  October,  in  the  manner  recommended  in  the 
Calendar  for  that  month. 

All  kinds  of  Squashes  should,  after  having  been  boiled 
tender,  be  pressed  as  close  as  possible  between  two  wooden 
trenchers,  or  by  means  of  a  slice  or  skimmer,  made  of  the 
same  material,  until  dry,  and  then  prepared  for  the  table  in 
the  same  manner  as  Turnips. 


TOMATO.  101 

TOMATO 
TOMATE,  ou  POMME  D'AMOUR.     Solanum  lycopersicwn. 

VARIETIES. 

Large  Red.  Pear-shaped. 

Large  Yellow.  Cherry-shaped. 

THE  Tomato,  or  Love  Apple,  is  much  cultivated  for  its 
fruit,  which  is  used  in  soups  and  sauces,  to  which  it  imparts 
an  agreeable  acid  flavour ;  it  is  also  stewed  and  dressed  in 
various  ways,  and  is  considered  very  wholesome. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  early  in  March,  in  a  slight  hot- 
bed, and  the  plants  set  out  in  the  c<!pe^n,  ground,  if  settled 
warm  weather,  in  the  early  part  of  Miy^  '''In  ^invate'  ga*- 
dens  it  will  be  necessary  to  plant*  them  near  &  ferce,  cr  to 
provide  trellises  for  them  to  be  traiiieo:  tc,  iii  the  manner 
recommended  for  Nasturtiums  ;  they  will,  however,  do  very 
well,  if  planted  four  feet  distant  from  each  other  every  way. 

Tomatoes  may  be  brought  to  perfection  late  in  the  sum 
mer,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  the  open  ground  the  first  week 
in  May ;  these  plants  will  be  fit  to  transplant  early  in  June, 
and  the  fruit  may  ripen  in  time  for  preserves,  or  for  catsup. 

One  ounce  of  good  Tomato  seed  will  produce  upward  of 
four  thousand  plants ;  and  a  single  plant  has  been  known  to 
yield  upward  of  a  bushel  of  fruit. 

Tomatoes  may  be  preserved  in  a  stone  or  glazed  earthen 
pot,  for  use  in  the  winter,  by  covering  them  with  water  in 
which  a  /sufficient  quantity  of  salt  has  been  dissolved  to  make 
it  strong  enough  to'bear  an  egg.  Select  perfectly  ripe  ber- 
ries, and  cover  the  pot  with  a  plate  in  such  a  manner  that  it 
presses  upon  the  fruit  without  bruising  it.  Previous  to  cook- 
ing these  Tomatoes,  they  should  be  soaked  in  fresh  water 
for  several  hours. 

Besides  the  various  modes  of  preparing  this  delicious  ve- 
getable for  the  table,  it  may  be  preserved  in  sugar,  and  used 
either  as  a  dessert,  or  on  the  tea-table,  as  a  substitute  for 
Peaches  or  other  sweetmeats.  It  also  makes  exqusite  pies 
and  tarts,  and  excellent  catsup. 

9* 


102  TURNIP. 

A  celebrated  writer  observes,  that  "  the  common  Tomato 
made  into  a  gravy,  by  stewing  over  the  fire,  and  used  as  a 
sauce  for  meat,  has  been  known  to  quicken  the  action  of  the 
liver  and  of  the  bowels,  better  than  any  medicine  he  ever 
made  use  of."  He  states  farther,  that  "  when  afflicted  with 
inaction  of  the  bowels,  headache,  a  bad  taste  of  the  mouth, 
straitness  of  the  chest,  and  a  dull  and  painful  heaviness  of 
the  region  of  the  liver,  the  whole  of  these  symptoms  are 
removed  by  Tomato  sauce,  and  the  mind,  in  the  course  of 
some  few  hours,  is  put  in  perfect  tune." 

To  make  them  into  catsup,  use  one  pint  of  salt  to  one 
peck  of  Tomatoes ;  bruise  them,  and  let  them  stand  two 
.days ;  then  strain  them  dry,  and  boil  the  juice  until  the  scum 
coase3  to  rise;  wi'th  two  ounces  of  black  pepper,  the  same 
quantity  of  pimento  or  allspice,  one  ounce  of  ginger,  one  of 
cloves,  and  half  an  ounce  of  mace. 


TURNIP. 
NAVET.     Brassica  rapa. 


VARIETIES. 


Early  Garden  Stone. 
Early  White  Dutch. 
Early  Snow  Ball. 
Early  Red  Top. 
Strap  Leaved  Red  Top. 
Early  Green  Top 
Yellow  Aberdeen. 
Long  White. 


Large  English  Norfolk. 

Long  Tankard,  or  Hanover. 

White  Flat,  or  Globe. 

Yellow  Maltese. 

Yellow  Stone. 

Dale's  Yellow  Hybrid. 

Long  Yellow. 

Russia,  Swedish,  or  Ruta  Baga. 


THIS  is  a  wholesome  and  useful  plant,  both  for  man  and 
beast,  and  highly  deserving  of  cultivation.  It  being  the  last 
Esculent  vegetable  in  our  catalogue,  that  is  raised  from  seed 
sold  at  the  various  seed  stores,  I  shall  endeavour  to  stimulate 
those  of  our  yeomanry  who  have  hitherto  neglected  the  cul- 
ture of  this  field  as  well  as  garden  production,  to  exertion 
and  diligence,  by  inserting  a  few  extracts  from  a  paper  that 
now  lies  before  me. 


TURNIP.  103 

"  Culture  of  Turnips. — Until  the  beginning  of  the  eigh- 
teenth century,  this  valuable  root  was  cultivated  only  in  gar- 
dens, or  other  small  spots,  for  culinary  purposes  ;  but  Lord 
Townsend,  who  attended  King  George  the  First  in  one  of 
his  excursions  to  Germany,  in  the  quality  of  Secretary  of 
State,  observing  the  Turnip  cultivated  in  open  and  extensive 
fields,  as  fodder  for  cattle,  and  spreading  fertility  over  lands 
naturally  barren,  on  his  return  to  England  brought  over  some 
of  the  seed,  and  strongly  recommended  the  practice  which 
he  had  witnessed,  to  the  adoption  of  his  own  tenants,  who 
occupied  a  soil  similar  to  that  of  Hanover.  The  experiment 
succeeded ;  the  cultivation  of  Field  Turnips  gradually  spread 
over  the  whole  county  of  Norfolk,  and  has  made  its  way  into 
every  other  district  of  England.  Some  of  the  finest  grain 
crops  in  the  world  are  now  growing  upon  land,  which  be- 
fore the  introduction  of  the  Turnip  husbandry,  produced  a 
very  scanty  supply  of  grass  for  a  few  lean  and  half-starved 
rabbits." 

Mr.  Colquhoun,  in  his  *  Statistical  Researches,''  estimated 
the  value  of  the  Turnip  crop  annually  growing  in  the  United 
Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  at  fourteen  million 
pounds  sterling,  (equal  to  upward  of  SIXTY  MILLIONS  OF  DOL- 
LARS.) But  when  we  farther  recollect,  that  it  enables  the 
agriculturist  to  reclaim  and  cultivate  land,  which,  without  its 
aid,  would  remain  in  a  hopeless  state  of  natural  barrenness ; 
that  it  leaves  the  land  clean  and  in  fine  condition,  and  also 
insures  a  good  crop  of  Barley,  and  a  kind  plant  of  Clover ; 
and  that  this  Clover  is  found  a  most  excellent  pieparative 
for  Wheat,  it  will  appear  that  the  subsequent  advantages 
derived  from  a  crop  of  Turnips  must  infinitely  exceed  its 
estimated  value  as  fodder  for  cattle. 

The  preceding  remarks  show  the  kind  of  land  that  may 
be  made  capable  of  producing  not  only  Turnips,  but  other 
things  of  equal  value.  It  must,  however,  be  granted,  that 
some  soils  naturally  suit  particular  kinds  of  vegetables  better 
than  others,  and  that,  in  general,  exotic  plants  will  succeed 


104  TURNIP. 

best  in  such  soils  as  are  nearest  like  their  own  native  soil. 
As  we  have  not  always  a  choice,  I  would  inform  the  Young 
Gardener,  if  he  has  a  very  light  soil,  which  is  not  suitable 
for  vegetables  in  general,  he  may  sometimes  get  two  crops  of 
Turnips  from  it  in  one  year,  by  sowing  seed  for  the  first  crop 
in  March,  and  that  for  his  second  about  the  middle  of  August. 
For  general  crops,  it  will  be  better  to  have  ground  manured 
with  short  rotten  dung,  or  compost  containing  a  considerable 
proportion  of  coal,  wood,  peat,  or  soapers'  ashes.  Ground 
that  has  been  well  manured  for  preceding  crops,  and  also 
ground  fresh  broken  up,  will  do  well  for  Turnips. 

It  is  important  that  particular  attention  be  paid  to  the  time 
of  sowing  the  seed ;  for  if  the  first  crop  be  not  sown  soon 
enough  to  be  gathered  early  in  July,  they  are  seldom  fit  for 
the  table,  being  hot,  stringy,  and  wormy ;  and  if  the  crop  in- 
tended for  autumn  and  winter  use  is  sown  before  August, 
unless  it  be  a  very  favourable  season,  if  they  even  escape 
the  attacks  of  insects  and  reptiles,  they  often  get  so  defective, 
that  they  seldom  keep  through  the  winter.* 

To  have  Turnips  in  perfection,  they  should  be  hoed  in 
about  a  month  after  they  are  sown,  or  by  the  time  the  plants 
have  spread  to  a  circle  of  about  four  inches,  and  again  about 
a  month  from  the  first  hoeing,  leaving  them  from  six  to  nine 
inches  apart.  They  will  yield  the  cultivator  more  profit 
when  treated  in  this  way,  than  when  left  to  nature,  as  is  too 
frequently  done. 

*  Previous  to  sowing  Turnip  seed,  the  gardener  should  procure  a  suitable 
quantity  of  lime,  soot,  or  tobacco  dust,  so  as  to  be  prepared  for  the  attacks 
of  insects.  It  should  be  recollected  that  Turnip  seed  will  sometimes  sprout 
within  forty-eight  hours  after  it  is  sown,  and  that  very  frequently  whole 
crops  are  devoured  before  a  plant  is  seen  above  ground.  A  peck  of  either 
of  these  ingredients,  mixed  with  about  an  equal  quantity  of  ashes,  or  even 
dry  road  dust,  scattered  over  the  ground,  morning  and  evening,  for  the  first 
week  after  sowing  the  seed,  would  secure  an  acre  of  ground,  provided  the 
composition  be  used  in  such  a  way  that  the  wind  carry  it  over  the  whole 
plot ;  and  as  the  wind  often  changes,  this  end  may  be  effected  by  crossing 
the  land  in  a  different  direction  each  time,  according  as  the  wind  may  serve. 
If  gardeners  who  raise  Radishes,  Cabbage,  and  such  other  vegetables  as  are 
subject  to  the  attacks  of  insects,  were  to  pursue  this  course,  they  would 
save  themselves  from  considerable  loss. 


TURNIP.  105 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  one"  pound  of  Turnip  seed  is 
amply  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  ground,  yet  some  will  use 
considerably  more,  because  of  the  difficulty  of  distributing  so 
small  a  quantity  of  seed  regularly  broad-cast.  This  difficulty 
is,  however,  obviated  by  sowing  the  seed  in  drills  ;  and  al- 
though it  may  seem  a  tedious  process  to  those  who  have  no 
other  means  of  doing  it  than  by  hand,  the  facilities  thus  af- 
forded of  hoeing  between  the  rows,  more  than  compensate 
for  the  extra  labour. 

I  once  induced  a  friend  of  mine  to  sow  four  ounces  of 
Turnip  seed,  in  August,  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  by  which 
means  he  made  it  extend  over  more  than  half  an  acre  of 
land ;  and  by  hoeing  the  plants  twice,  he  had  the  gratifica- 
tion of  pulling  four  hundred  bushels  of  handsome  Turnips, 
which  is  more  than  is  generally  taken  from  an  acre  of  land 
cultivated  in  the  ordinary  way. 

If  seed  of  the  Russia  or  Swedish  Turnip  be  sown  in  drills, 
any  time  in  the  month  of  July,  or  even  early  in  August,  they 
will  produce  fine  roots  toward  the  end  of  October,  pro- 
vided the  land  be  good,  and  well  worked.  When- the  plants 
are  up  strong,  they  must  be  hoed  and  thinned  to  the  distance 
of  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  from  each  other ;  another  hoeing 
will  be  necessary  in  five  or  six  weeks  afterward.  This  will 
make  them  grow  freely.  If  cultivated  in  the  field,  frequent 
ploughing  between  the  rows  will  be  beneficial. 

The  Turnip  is  a  favourite  vegetable  with  some,  and  in 
England,  a  leg  of  mutton  and  caper  sauce  is  considered  by 
epicures  as  but  half  a  dish  without  mashed  Turnips.  To 
have  them  in  perfection,  they  should,  after  having  been  de- 
prived of  their  rind,  be  equalized  by  cutting  the  largest  trans- 
versely in  the  centre,  and  then,  after  being  boiled  tender,  let 
them  be  taken  up,  and  pressed  as  dry  as  possible;  at  the  same 
time,  let  a  lump  of  butter  and  a  due  proportion  of  Cayenne 
pepper  and  salt  be  added,  and  be  beaten  up  with  the  Turnips 
until  properly  mixed.  Use  the  natural  gravy  from  the  meat 
unadulterated,  and  such  condiment  as  may  be  most  esteemed. 


106  AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 

AROMATIC,  POT,  AND  SWEET  HERBS. 

GRAINES  D'HERBES  AROMATIZES,  ODORIFERANTES  ET  A 
L'USAGE  DE  LA  CUISINE. 

Angelica,  Garden,  Angelica  atropurpurea' 

Anise,  Pimpinella  anisum. 

Basil,  Sweet,  Ocymum  basilicum. 

Borage,  Borago  officinalis. 

Burnet,  Garden,  Poturium  sanguisorba. 

Caraway,  Carum  carui. 

Chervil,  or  Cicely  the  Sweet,  Scandix  odorata  cerefolium. 

Clary,  Salvia  sclara. 

Coriander,  Coriandrum  sativum. 

Dill,  Anethum  graveolens. 

*  Fennel,  Common,  Anethum  faeniculum. 

*  Fennel,  Sweet,  Anethum  dulce. 
Marigold,  Pot,  Calendula  officinalis. 

*  Marjoram,  Sweet,  Origanum  marjorana. 

*  Mint,  Spear,  Mentha  virides. 

*  Mint,  Pepper,  Mentha  piperita. 

,    *  Mint,  Pennyroyal,  Mentha  pulegium. 

*  Sage,  Common,  Salvia  officinalis. 

*  Sage,  Red,  Salvia  clandestinoides. 
Savory,  Summer,  Saturcja  hortensis. 

*  Savory,  Winter,  Suture j a  montana. 

*  Tarragon,  Artemisia  dracunculus. 

*  Thyme,  Common,  Thymus  vulgaris. 

*  Thyme,  Lemon,  Thynius  serpyllum. 

AROMATIC  Herbs  are  such  as  impart  a  strong  spicy  odour 
and  savoury  taste ;  many  of  them  are  used  as  small  pot  herbs, 
and  for  sauces,  stuffings,  and  other  uses  in  cooking.  As  only 
a  small  quantity  of  these  are  necessary  in  private  gardens,  a 
by-corner  may  be  allotted  for  them,  and  such  medicinal  herbs 
as  may  be  wanted  in  a  family. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  explain,  as  we  go  along,  that  there 
are  three  principal  descriptive  names  given  to  plants,  namely, 
Annuals,  Biennials,  and  Perennials.  The  Annuals  being  but 
of  one  season's  duration,  are  raised  every  year  from  seed. 
The  Biennials  are  raised  from  seed  one  year,  continue  till 
the  second,  then  perfect  their  seed,  and  soon  after  die;  some 
of  these  should  also  be  raised  every  year  from  seed.  The 
Perennials  may  be  raised  from  seed,  but  when  once  raised, 
they  will  continue  on  the  same  roots  many  years.  Those 


MEDICINAL   HERBS. 


107 


marked  *  are  of  the  latter  description,  and  maybe  propagated 
by  suckers,  offsets,  cuttings,  or  parting  the  roots.  Those 
who  have  not  already  a  plantation  of  these  herbs,  may  sow 
the  seed  of  any  of  the  different  kinds  in  April  or  May,  in 
drills  about  half  an  inch  deep,  and  twelve  inches  apart,  each 
kind  by  itself.  The  plants  may  afterward  be  transplanted 
into  separate  beds  ;  or,  if  a  drill  for  each  kind  be  drawn  two 
feet  apart,  the  seed  may  be  sown  in  them,  and  the  plants 
afterward  thinned  out  to  proper  distances,  according  to  the 
natural  growth  of  the  different  kinds  of  plants. 


PLANTS  CULTIVATED  FOR  MEDICINAL  AND 
OTHER  PURPOSES. 

GRAINES  DE  PL  ANTES  MEDICINAL. 


Bene, 

Boneset,  or  Thoroughwort, 

*BaIm, 

Bean,  Castor  Oil, 

Burdock, 

Catnep, 

Celandine, 

*  Chamomile, 

*  Comfrey, 

*  Elecampane, 
Feverfew, 

*  Horehound, 

*  Horsemint, 

*  Hyssop, 

*  Lavender, 
Lovage, 

*  Mallow,  Marsh, 

*  Motherwort, 

*  Patience  Dock, 

*  Pinkroot,  Carolina, 
Poppy  Opium,  (annual,) 

*  Rosemary, 

*  Rue,  Garden, 
Saffron,  Bastard, 
Skullcap,  or  Mad  Dog  Plant. 
Snakeroot,  Virginian, 

*  Sorrel, 


Sesamum  orientate. 
Eupatorium  pcrfoliatum, 
Melissa  qfficinalis. 
Ricinus  communls. 
Arclium  lappa. 
Nepeta  cat  aria. 
Chelidonum  ma  jus. 
Anthemis  nobilis. 
Symphytum  qfficinalc. 
Inula  fielenium. 
Chrysanthemum  parthenium. 
Marubiam  vulgare. 
Monarda  pundata. 
Hyssopus  officinalis. 
Lavendula  spica. 
Ligusticum  levisticum. 
Althea  qfficinalis. 
Leonurus  cardiaca. 
Rurnex  patientia. 
Spigelia  Marylandica. 
Papaver  somniferum. 
Rosmarinus  officinalis. 
Rut  a  graveolens. 
Cartharnus  tinctorius. 
Scutellaria  lateriflora. 
Aristolochia,  serpentaria. 
Rumex  acetosa. 


108  AROMATIC  HERBS,  ETC. 

*  Southernwood,  Artemisia  abrotanum. 

*  Speedwell,  Virginian,  Veronica  Virginica. 

*  Spikenard,  Aralia  racemosa. 

*  Tansy,  Tanacetum  vulgare. 

*  Wormwood,  Artemisia  absinthium. 

THE  generality  of  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs 
may  be  raised  from  seed  sown  in  April  and  May.  The 
greater  part  of  the  above-mentioned  plants  are  Perennial, 
and  will  multiply  from  the  seed  they  drop,  or  from  partings 
from  the  roots.  The  offsets,  roots,  or  young  plants  thus 
raised,  should  be  planted  at  suitable  distances  from  each  other 
early  in  the  spring. 

The  beds  should  afterward  be  kept  free  from  weeds,  and 
as  the  herbs  come  into  flower,  they  should  be  cut  on  a  dry 
day,  and  spread  in  a  shady  place  to  dry,  for  winter  use.  The 
best  way  to  preserve  them  after  they  are  dried,  is  to  rub 
them  so  as  to  pass  them  through  a  sieve,  then  pack  them  in 
bottles  or  boxes,  each  kind  by  itself ;  they  should  be  after- 
ward kept  in  a  dry  place. 

In  the  month  of  October,  the  herb  beds  should  be  exam- 
ined. Lavender,  Rosemary,  and  other  tender  plants,  should 
be  taken  up,  potted,  and  placed  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse 
for  the  winter.  Thyme,  Hyssop,  Winter  Savory,  Southern- 
wood, Sage,  Rue,  and  the  like,  will  require  their  tops  to  be 
neatly  dressed ;  and  Pot  Marjoram,  Burnet,  Tarragon,  Tansy, 
Pennyroyal,  Sorrel,  Chamomile,  Fennel,  Horehound,  Mint, 
Lovage,  and  other  kinds  of  hardy  Perennial  Herbs,  should 
be  cut  down  close  to  the  ground. 

After  this  is  done,  it  will  be  proper  to  dig  lightly,  and 
loosen  the  ground  between  the  roots  of  the  shrubby  plants  ; 
but  the  beds  of  close-growing  running  plants,  such  as  Mint, 
Running  Thyme,  and  all  other  creeping  herbs,  will  not  well 
admit  of  digging ;  therefore,  after  the  stalks  are  cut  down, 
and  the  beds  cleared  of  weeds,  dig  the  alleys,  and  strew  some 
of  the  loose  earth  evenly  over  the  beds ;  and  if  the  ground 
be  rather  poor  or  light,  a  top  dressing  of  very  rotten  dung 
will  be  of  considerable  service. 


PLAN  OF  BEDS,  ETC.  109 

This  dressing  will  give  proper  nurture  and  protection  to 
the  roots  of  the  plants,  a  neat  appearance  to  the  garden,  and 
in  spring  the  shoots  will  rise  with  renewed  vigour. 

Having  finished  the  Catalogue,  I  will  now  proceed  to  give 
directions  for  making  the  most  of  a  piece  of  ground  well 
manured  for  early  crops.  In  the  general  directions  at  the 
commencement,  I  observed  that  good  rich  manure  was  indis- 
pensably necessary  to  the  production  of  some  particular 
kinds  of  vegetables ;  it  may  be  farther  observed,  that  rich 
ground  will  produce  two  or  three  valuable  crops,  but  it  re- 
quires some  attention,  to  make  use  of  it  to  the  best  advan- 
tage. If  the  gardener  has  leisure  to  dig  such  ground  in 
March  or  April,  as  he  intends  for  Beans,  Cucumbers,  Toma- 
toes, Egg-plants,  or  other  tender  plants,  he  may  raise  Ra- 
dishes, Spinach,  Lettuce,  or  other  small  salads  on  it,  by  leav- 
ing a  space  for  his  hills  or  drills ;  or  Radish  seed  may  be 
sown  lightly  over  the  beds  of  Beets,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  &c.,  but 
they  must  not  be  suffered  to  run  to  seed,  as  this  would  injure 
the  other  plants.  When  the  first  crops  are  gathered,  it  requires 
a  little  consideration  before  a  second  is  planted,  in  order  that 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  the  best  ground  may  be  reserved  for 
the  most  particular  and  valuable  varieties  of  vegetables. 

That  I  may  be  understood,  I  have  adopted  the  following 
plans,  representing  beds  of  earth ;  this  will  answer  the  same 
purpose  as  bringing  my  readers  on  the  ground. 

No.  1.  The  following  lines  represent  drills  six  inches  apart. 
March  25. — Sow  Parsley,  Onion,  or  other  small  seed. 


March  25. — Sow  Radish  seed. 


March  25.- — Sow   Parsley,  Onion,  or  other  small  seed. 

The  Radishes  being  pulled  early  in  May,  leaves  the  inter- 
mediate ground  for  the  other  plants. 

10 


110  PLAN  OP  BEDS,  ETC. 

No.  2.  Drills  ten  inches  apart. 


April  1. — Sow  Spinach,  or  Radish  seed. 


April  15. — Plant  early  Cabbage  Plants. 

^^BMPi 

April  1. — Sow  Spinach,  or  Radish  seed. 


By  the  time  the  Cabbage  requires  the  whole  of  the  ground, 
the  Spinach  or  Radishes  may  be  gathered. 

If  this  bed  be  cleared  of  the  second  crop  by  the  middle 
of  July,  it  may  be  planted  with  Celery,  Turnip,  or  Black 
Radish  seed.  If  the  Cabbage  be  of  the  late-heading  kinds, 
the  ground  may  be  reserved  for  the  first  sowing  of  Spinach, 
Fetticus,  Lettuce,  &c.,  in  which  case  it  will  require  a  fresh 
coat  of  manure 

No.  3.  Drills  twelve  inches  apart. 

March  20.— Plant  slips  or  cuttings  of  Horse-radish. 


March  20. — Plant  Turnip-rooted  Beet  seed. 


March  20. — Plant  slips  or  cuttings  or  Horse-radish. 

If  required,  a  light  crop  of  Radishes  may  be  raised  on 
this  bed,  which  should  be  pulled  while  young. 

Hoe  and  thin  out  the  Beets  as  they  progress  in  growth,  and 
when  full  grown,  they  may  be  gathered,  without  disturbing 
the  Horse-radish.  [See  article  Horse-radish.] 


PLAN  OF  BEDS,  ETC.  Ill 

No.  4.  Rows,  or  drills,  fourteen  inches  apart. 
March  20. — Plant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


March  20. — Pant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


Hoe  them  the  first  week  in  April ;  previous  to  hoeing  the 
second  time,  draw  a  drill  between  each  row  of  plants,  and 
plant  Beet  or  Carrot  seed ;  this  may  be  covered  up  in  hoe- 
ing the  Lettuce,  and  by  the  time  the  plants  are  up  strong, 
the  Lettuce  will  be  fit  to  cut.  If  these  roots  are  well  attended 
to,  they  may  be  cleared  off  soon  enough  to  produce  fall  Cab- 
bage, Leeks,  Celery,  Turnips,  Black  Radishes,  &c. 

No.  5.  Rows,  or  drills,  sixteen  inches  apart. 
March  25. — Plant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


March  25. — Plant  hardy  Lettuce  plants. 


April  20. — Plant  Early  York  Cabbage  plants,  either  between  the  rows  or 
between  the  Lettuce. 

As  soon  as  the  Lettuce  is  off,  hoe  the  Cabbage,  and  it  will 
soon  cover  the  ground. 

This  ground  will  be  suitable  for  a  crop  of  any  of  the  va- 
rieties above  mentioned,  except  Cabbage,  the  roots  of  which 
are  apt  to  get  defective,  if  the  same  ground  be  planted  with 
Cabbage  twice  in  succession. 

The  above,  or  preceding  plans,  present  a  fair  specimen  of 
what  may  be  done  on  a  small  piece  of  good  ground.  If  the 


112 


HOT-BEDS. 


young  gardener  takes  the  trouble  to  keep  an  account  of  his 
transactions,  he  will  soon  make  discoveries  of  still  greater 
importance.  If  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the  different 
varieties  of  Cabbage  plants,  for  instance,  so  as  to  distinguish 
the  one  from  the  other,  by  making  a  memorandum  at  the 
time  of  sowing  the  seed  he  will  soon  get  acquainted  with  the 
different  varieties  of  plants ;  he  will  also  discover  the  differ- 
ence in  the  growing  of  his  seed,  and  know  who  to  blame  if 
any  particular  kind  should  not  come  up. 

The  following  represents  a  Hot-bed  with  four  sashes,  sown 
March  1 : 


Early  Dwarf, 

Early  Battersea, 

Early  Lettuce, 

Egg-plant 

Tomato  Seed, 

Seed,  &c. 

Early  York, 

Drumhead,  or 

Peppers, 

partitioned  off 

or  other  spring 

other  summer 

&c-  in  shallow 

as  directed  in 

note  to  article 

Cabbage  Seed. 

Cabbage  Seed. 

drills. 

Egg-plant. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  remind  my  readers  of  the  neces 
eity  of  being  always  prepared  to  sow  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  To- 
mato, and  Egg-plant  seed  in  hot-beds  the  last  week  in  Feb- 
ruary, or  early  in  March ;  for  this  purpose,  let  some  fresh 
stable  dung  and  rich  compost  be  engaged  beforehand.  Some 
gardeners  make  their  beds  on  the  level  ground,  but  it  is 
always  safest  to  make  them  in  pits  from  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  deep;*  in  order  to  do  this,  the  pits  should  be  dug 

*  When  durable  heat  is  required  for  forcing  vegetables,  the  beds  should 
be  made  on  level  ground,  in  order  that  linings  may  be  applied  to  the  out- 
side of  the  frame,  which,  by  frequent  renewal,  will  enliven  the  heat  of  the 
bed,  and  thus  bring  tender  vegetables  to  maturity,  which  would  otherwise 
suffer  from  a  decline  of  the  heat.  For  particular  directions,  see  Observa- 
tions on  Forcing  Vegetables  ;  also,  article  on  Forcing  Asparagus. 


HOT-BEDS.  113 

in  autumn,  or  a  heap  of  dung  may  be  deposited  on  the 
ground  intended  for  the  beds  before  the  frost  sets  in,  and 
good  earth  may  be  obtained  from  the  pits  without  any  diffi- 
culty. 

The  frames  should  be  made  of  good  sound  planks ;  the 
back  plank  may  be  two  feet  wide,  and  the  end  ones  may  be 
so  sloped  as  to  make  a  fifteen-inch  plank  do  for  the  front. 
A  frame  calculated  for  four  sashes,  of  three  feet  in  width  by 
six  in  length,  as  above  described,  should  be  nearly  thirteen 
feet  long,  and  about  six  broad  at  the  top. 

The  frame  being  set  over  the  pit,  and  properly  fastened, 
the  fresh  dung  should  be  spread  regularly  in  the  pit  to  the 
depth  of  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches ;  if  the  dung  be  in  a 
good  heating  condition,  cover  it  six  or  eight  inches  deep 
with  mould,  then  lay  on  the  sashes,  and  protect  the  beds 
from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather.  In  two  or  three  days 
the  rank  steam  will  pass  off;  it  will  then  be  necessary  to  stir 
the  mould  before  the  seed  be  sown,  to  prevent  the  growth 
of  young  weeds  that  may  be  germinating ;  then  sow  the 
seed  either  in  shallow  drills  or  broad-cast,  as  equally  as  pos- 
sible, reserving  a  small  quantity  of  the  warm  mould  to  be 
sown  lightly  over  the  seed.  The  beds  should  afterward 
be  attended  to,  as  directed  for  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower. 
This  description  of  a  hot-bed  is  intended  expressly  for  the 
raising  of  Spring  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Tomatoes,  and  such 
other  plants  as  may  be  required  for  early  planting.  Beds 
made  earlier  in  the  season,  or  for  forcing,  will  require  a 
greater  quantity  of  manure.  [See  Calendar  for  January, 
February,  and  March.] 


10* 


114 


OBSERVATIONS 


FORCING    VEGETABLES. 


BEFORE  I  commenced  preparing  this  work  for  the  press, 
I  intended  to  have  written  largely  on  the  subject  of  forcing 
fruits  as  well  as  vegetables ;  but  when  I  considered  my 
motto,  and  that  I  was  writing  for  young  gardeners,  I  con- 
cluded to  occupy  my  pages  in  such  a  manner  as  to  effect  the 
greatest  possible  good  at  the  smallest  expense.  Of  the  seve- 
ral branches  of  Horticulture,  some  are  of  greater  importance 
than  others  ;  and  as  the  products  of  the  kitchen  garden  form 
important  articles  of  food  for  the  bulk  of  mankind,  it  should 
be  our  first  care  to  treat  largely  on  the  subject  of  this  most 
useful  part  of  gardening.  Next  to  this  is  the  cultivation  of 
fruits,  and  the  production  of  ornamental  plants  and  flowers, 
each  of  which  will  be  noticed  in  their  respective  departments. 

As  I  stand  pledged  to  offer  some  remarks  on  forcing,  or 
rather  forwarding  vegetables,  by  artificial  means,  I  shall  en- 
deavour to  confine  my  observations  to  such  points  as  are  of 
primary  importance ;  and  in  order  to  convince  my  readers 
of  the  importance  of  this  subject,  I  shall  first  endeavour  to 
show  the  utility  of  an  artificial  climate  suited  to  the  various 
species  of  useful  plants.  In  England,  a  regular  succession 
of  vegetables  can  be  obtained  from  the  natural  ground  every 
month  in  the  year,  and  the  fruits  of  that  country,  from  the 
summer  heat  being  moderate,  are  of  longer  continuance 
than  with  us,  and  yet  the  English  make  gardening  a  science, 
and  employ  the  elements,  as  well  as  the  ingenuity  of  man, 
in  the  production  of  fruits  and  vegetables  out  of  the  ordinary 
season. 


ON    FORCING    VEGETABLES.  115 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  treat  of  the  cultivation  of  Pine- 
apples, Grapes,  Cherries,  or  other  fruits  grown  in  forcing- 
houses  ;  nor  would  it  be  advisable  with  us  to  undertake  to 
raise  Cucumbers,  Melons,  &c.,  in  frames  throughout  the  se- 
vere winters  of  our  Northern  States  ;  but  it  must  be  acknow- 
ledged, that  the  extreme  heat  of  our  summers  is  as  detri- 
mental to  the  cultivation  of  some  of  the  most  valuable  kinds 
of  fruits  and  vegetables,  as  the  coldness  of  our  winters,  and 
for  these  reasons,  artificial  aid  is  more  necessary  here  in  the 
winter  and  spring  of  the  year  than  in  England.  The  inhabi- 
tants of  that  country  obtain  a  supply  of  the  different  varieties 
of  Artichokes,  Broad  Beans,  Borecole,  Broccoli,  Cauliflower, 
Kale,  Lettuce,  Radishes,  Rhubarb,  Spinach,  Turnips,  and 
salads  in  general,  a  great  part  of  the  year  from  their  kitchen 
gardens,  whereas,  if  we  were  to  attempt  to  supply  our  mar- 
kets with  culinary  vegetables  at  all  times,  in  any  thing  like 
the  abundance  that  they  have  them  there,  we  must,  out  of  the 
ordinary  season  for  gardening  operations,  turn  our  attention  to 
the  protecting  and  forwarding,  as  well  as  the  forcing  system. 

Before  I  proceed  to  show  the  method  of  forcing  vegeta- 
bles, it  may  be  necessary  for  me  to  remind  my  readers,  that 
in  providing  an  artificial  climate,  they  should  consider  the 
nature  of  the  plants  they  intend  to  cultivate,  and  endeavour 
to  supply  them  with  that  which  is  best  calculated  to  nourish 
and  support  them.  I  have,  in  another  part  of  this  work, 
endeavoured  to  show,  that  heat,  light,  air,  and  moisture,  are 
each  essential  to  vegetation,  and  that  these  should  be  sup- 
plied in  a  judicious  manner,  according  to  circumstances. 

In  the  midst  of  our  Northern  winter,  which  is  the  usual 
time  for  forcing  in  England,  we  are  subject  to  north-west 
winds,  which  produce  extreme  freezing.  Now,  as  we  have 
not  yet  discovered  how  to  make  an  artificial  air,  it  will  not 
be  safe  for  the  gardener  to  raise  a  bottom  heat  under  any 
kind  of  vegetable,  until  such  time  as  he  can  impart  a  tole- 
rable share  of  salubrious  air,  as  the  heat  without  air  will 
soon  destroy  the  fruits  of  his  labour. 


116  ON    FORCING    VEGETABLES. 

Perhaps  the  safest  time  to  commence  forcing  in  frames, 
is  soon  after  the  middle  of  February,  and  the  early  part  of 
March.  I  before  hinted,  that  the  depth  of  heating  materials 
must  be  regulated  by  the  season  of  the  year  at  which  the 
work  is  commenced,  and  also  to  the  purposes  for  which  the 
hot-beds  are  intended.  Beds  used  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
half-hardy  plants,  or  for  procuring  seedling  plants  late  in  the 
spring,  may  be  made  in  the  manner  recommended  for  the 
common  hot-bed ;  but  if  substantial  heat  is  required  to  be 
kept  up,  the  beds  must  be  so  contrived  as  to  admit  of  linings 
as  the  heat  decreases ;  and  the  dung  should  undergo  a  regu- 
lar process  of  preparation,  according  to  the  use  it  is  intended 
for.  Compost  heaps  should  also  be  provided,  in  order  to 
furnish  suitable  mould  to  the  different  species  of  plants ;  for 
this  purpose,  all  the  old  hot-bed  dung  and  mould,  leaves,  tan, 
turf,  sand,  and  other  light  manures  and  decayed  animal  dung, 
should  be  collected  together. 

In  some  cases,  when  a  slight  hot-bed  is  recommended  for 
forwarding  hardy  plants,  if  it  should  happen  that  a  seedling 
Cucumber  bed  be  at  liberty,  it  may  answer  every  purpose 
for  Radishes,  Lettuce,  or  other  hardy  plants ;  or  such  a  bed 
may  be  spawned  for  Mushroons,  if  required. 

If  the  forcing  be  commenced  before  the  coldest  of  the 
winter  is  past,  great  precaution  must  be  used,  lest  the  plants 
be  injured  by  cold  cutting  winds,  or  destroyed  by  heat  for 
want  of  air.  To  prevent  the  former  accident,  warm  dung 
should  be  placed  around  the  frames,  and  the  sashes  covered 
with  mats  and  boards  every  night.  If  full  air  cannot  be  ad- 
mitted in  the  day  time,  the  sashes  must  be  slidden  down  to 
let  off  the  steam ;  at  the  same  time  mats  may  be  laid  over 
the  aperture,  to  prevent  cold  air  entering  to  the  plants. 

If  the  bottom  heat  in  a  bed  be  too  violent,  which  is  some- 
times the  case,  means  must  be  used  to  decrease  it.  This  is 
generally  effected  by  making  holes  in  the  bed  with  a  stake 
sharpened  at  the  end,  or  with  a  crow:bar ;  which  holes  should 
be  filled  up  when  the  heat  is  sufficiently  reduced.  In  lining 


FORCING   ASPARAGUS.  117 

hot-beds,  if  the  heat  is  reduced  in  the  body  of  the  beds,  holes 
may  be  carefully  made  to  admit  heat  from  the  fresh  linings, 
so  as  to  enliven  the  heat  of  the  bed. 

A  Fahrenheit  thermometer  should  always  be  at  hand  at 
the  time  of  forcing,  to  be  used,  when  necessary,  to  regulate 
the  heat  in  the  beds ;  and  the  water  that  is  used  in  cultiva- 
ting plants  in  frames,  should  be  warmed  to  the  temperature 
of  the  air,  or  according  to  the  heat  required  for  the  various 
kinds  of  plants,  which  will  be  shown  in  the  annexed  articles. 


FORCING  ASPARAGUS  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

As  Asparagus  is  apt  to  grow  weak  and  slender  by  extreme 
bottom  heat,  it  is  forced  with  greater  success,  and  with  less 
trouble,  in  flued  pits  in  a  hot-house,  than  in  dung  hot-beds, 
because  the  heat  from  tan  is  more  regular  ;  but  a  very  suita- 
ble bed  may  be  formed  in  a  deep  hot-bed  frame,  made  in  the 
usual  way.  If  dung  alone,  or  a  mixture  of  dung  and  leaves, 
be  used,  it  should  be  in  a  state  past  heating  violently  before 
it  is  made  into  a  bed ;  but  if  the  gardener  has  no  choice  of 
materials,  he  may  make  his  liotvbed  in  the  usual  way,  and  if 
the  depth  of  heating  materials  be  two  feet,  he  may  lay  on  a 
foot  of  old  hot-bed  dung,  tan,  or  any  light  compost,  that  will 
admit  of  the  heat  passing  through  it. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  farther,  that  though  too  much 
bottom  heat  should  be  avoided,  heat  is  necessary  to  the  pro- 
duction of  the  vegetable  in  a  moderate  time,  which  is  gene- 
rally effected  in  a  month  or  six  weeks  after  the  commence- 
ment of  the  operations.  For  the  purpose  of  keeping  up  a 
regular  heat,  a  lining  of  hot  dung  should  be  applied  around 
the  frame,  and  changed  as  occasion  requires. 

Provide  plants  from  two  to  four,  or  even  six  years  old, 
trim  their  roots,  and  place  them  in  rows  on  the  beds ;  when 
one  row  is  laid,  strew  a  little  mould  among  the  roots,  then 
proceed  in  the  same  way  with  one  row  after  another,  keep- 


118  FORCING    ASPARAGUS. 

ing  them  on  a  level,  as  the  surface  of  the  bed  at  first  lay, 
till  you  have  finished  planting  them ;  then  lay  among  the 
buds  and  roots  some  fine  vegetable  or  other  rich  mould,  work 
it  in  among  them  with  your  fingers,  and  cover  the  beds  over 
about  an  inch  thick ;  and  upon  that,  lay  three  inches  in 
depth  of  vegetable  mould  not  very  rotten,  old  tan,  or  any 
other  light  compost  that  will  admit  the  water  to  run  quickly 
through. 

If  there  be  a  strong  heat  in  the  bed,  slide  down  the  sashes 
till  it  begins  to  decline.  The  temperature  at  night  should 
never  be  under  50°,  and  it  may  rise  to  65°  without  injury ; 
when  the  buds  begin  to  appear,  as  much  air  must  be  daily 
admitted  as  the  weather  will  permit.  In  two  or  three  days 
after  the  beds  are  planted,  the  heat  will  begin  to  rise :  the 
beds  should  then  have  a  moderate  supply  of  water,  applied 
from  a  watering-pot  with  the  rose  attached ;  repeat  such 
watering  every  three  or  four  days. 

When  the  buds  are  up  three  inches  above  the  surface, 
they  are  fit  to  gather  for  use,  as  they  will  then  be  six  or  seven 
inches  in  length.  In  gathering  them,  draw  aside  a  little  of 
the  mould,  slip  down  the  finger  and  thumb,  and  twist  them 
off  from  the  crown  :  this  is  a  better  method  than  to  cut  them  ; 
at  least,  it  is  less  dangerous  to  the  rising  buds,  which  come 
up  thick  in  succession. 

An  ordinary-sized  frame  calculated  for  three  sashes  will 
hold  from  three  to  five  hundred  plants,  according  to  their  age 
and  size,  and  will,  if  properly  managed,  yield  a  dish  every 
day  for  about  three  weeks.  On  the  above  estimate,  if  a  con- 
stant succession  of  Asparagus  be  required,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  plant  a  bed  every  eighteen  or  twenty  days. 

Rhubarb  and  Sea-Kale  may  be,  and  sometimes  are,  forced 
in  the  same  manner  as  Asparagus ;  but  the  most  general 
mode  is  to  excite  them  where  they  stand  in  the  open  garden, 
by  the  application  of  warm  dung. 


FORWARDING    BEANS.  119 

FORWARDING  BROAD  BEANS,  OR  ENGLISH 
DWARFS. 

IN  the  article  Broad  Beans,  (Vicia  faba,)  I  have  already 
urged  the  necessity  of  early  planting,  in  order  that  a  full 
crop  may  be  insured  before  the  approach  of  warm  weather ; 
but  as  the  ground  is  often  frozen  at  the  time  they  ought  to 
be  planted,  some  of  the  best  kinds  may  be  planted  in  boxes, 
and  placed  in  a  moderate  hot-bed  in  February,  or  early  in 
March.  If  the  plants  thus  raised  be  not  made  too  tender, 
they  may  te  transplanted  into  the  open  ground  the  latter  end 
of  March ;  this  will  enable  them  to  produce  their  fruit  early 
in  June. 

Or  if  a  heap  of  manure  be  spread  thick  on  a  piece  of 
ground  late  in  autumn,  it  will  keep  the  earth  from  freezing; 
and  if  this  manure  be  removed  in  February,  and  a  frame 
placed  over  the  spot  and  protected  from  extreme  cold,  the 
seedlings  may  be  raised  therein,  and  transplanted  into  the 
garden,  as  directed  in  article,  page  39. 

Those  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  hot-beds  or  frames, 
may,  in  the  month  of  February,  plant  some  of  the  seed  about 
two  inches  deep  in  boxes  kept  in  the  cellar,  or  in  earth  on 
the  floor,  which  will  produce  plants  fit  to  transplant  in  the 
open  garden  toward  the  latter  end  of  March  or  early  in  April. 


FORCING  KIDNEY  BEANS. 

THE  most  dwarfish  kinds  of  Kidney  Beans  may  be  raised 
in  hot-beds ;  but  they  require  a  substantial  heat  to  mature 
them.  The  temperature  within  the  frames  should  be  kept 
up  to  60°,  and  may  rise  to  70°  or  75°,  provided  the  steam  be 
let  oif.  In  order  to  insure  sufficient  heat  to  bring  them  into 
a  bearing  state,  the  plants  may  be  first  raised  in  small  pots 
plunged  into  a  hot-bed,  or  a  small  bed  may  be  prepared, 


120  FORWARDING    BROCCOLI    AND    CAULIFLOWER. 

earthed  over  with  light  rich  compost,  six  inches  deep,  and 
the  Beans  planted  therein,  and  covered  one  inch. 

The  second  hot-bed  should  be  earthed  over  to  the  depth 
of  eight  or  nine  inches,  and  the  Beans  transplanted  as  soon 
as  they  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  in  cross  rows  twelve 
or  fifteen  inches  apart,  by  three  or  four  inches  in  the  rows, 
or  in  clumps  a  foot  apart.  When  the  season  is  so  far  advanced 
that  one  bed,  with  the  help  of  linings,  will  biing  the  plants 
well  into  fruit,  the  seed  may  be  planted  at  once  to  remain 
for  podding ;  or  if  the  gardener  should  choose  to  mature  his 
crop  in  the  open  ground,  he  may  raise  his  plants  in  boxes  or 
pots  in  the  month  of  April,  and  plant  them  out  in  a  warm 
border  early  in  May. 

Beans  raised  in  hot-beds  will  require  considerable  atten- 
tion. Cover  the  glasses  every  night  with  mats  and  boards ; 
admit  fresh  air  every  mild  day,  give  occasional  gentle  water- 
ings, and  earth  them  up  carefully  as  they  progress  in  growth, 
to  strengthen  them. 


FORWARDING  BROCCOLI  AND  CAULIFLOWER. 

IN  treating  of  the  method  of  cultivating  this  family  of 
plants,  in  the  articles  under  each  head,  I  recommended  an 
artificial  climate  to  be  provided  for  them,  so  as  to  induce 
them  to  arrive  at  full  perfection  in  the  winter  and  early  part 
of  the  spring.  Gardeners  who  have  provided  frames  for  the 
purpose  of  making  hot-beds,  in  the  spring,  may  make  use 
of  them  through  the  winter,  in  protecting  Broccoli  and  Cau- 
liflower ;  and  as  the  frames  will  not  be  wanted  until  the  se- 
verity of  the  winter  is  past,  such  plants  as  are  left  at  that 
season  may  be  protected  by  a  covering  of  boards,  straw,  or 
litter,  as  occasion  may  require. 

If  Cauliflower  be  required  early  in  the  summer,  the  plants 
raised  in  the  preceding  autumn  should  be  transplanted  from 
the  beds  into  the  open  ground,  in  the  month  of  March,  and 


FORCING    CUCUMBERS.  121 

be  protected  by  hand  glasses.  This  would  insure  their  heading 
before  the  approach  of  extreme  warm  weather,  which  is 
very  injurious  to  Cauliflower. 


FORCING  CUCUMBERS. 

To  produce  Cucumbers  at  an  early  season,  should  be  an 
object  of  emulation  with  every  gardener.  The  business  of 
forcing  them  should  commence  about  eight  or  ten  weeks 
before  the  fruit  is  desired,  and  a  succession  of  plants  should 
be  raised  to  provide  for  accidents.  Some  choose  the  Short 
Prickly,  others  the  Long  Green  and  White  Spined ;  and  seed 
two  or  three  years  old  is  generally  preferred,  as  it  is  not  so  apt 
to  run  to  vines. 

The  seed  is  generally  sown  in  pots  or  boxes  of  light  rich 
mould,  and  placed  in  a  hot-bed ;  and  some  sow  the  seed  in 
the  earth  of  a  small  bed  prepared  for  the  purpose.  In  either 
case,  as  soon  as  the  plants  have  fully  expanded  their  two 
seed  leaves,  they  may  be  transplanted  into  pots,  putting 
three  plants  in  each  pot ;  when  this  is  done,  apply  water 
warmed  to  the  temperature  of  the  bed,  and  shut  down  the 
glasses,  keeping  them  a  little  shaded  by  throwing  a  mat  over 
the  glass,  till  the  plants  have  taken  root.  When  they  are 
about  a  month  old,  they  will  be  fit  to  transplant  into  the  fruit- 
ing bed. 

To  prepare  the  dung  properly,  is  of  the  greatest  impor- 
tance in  forcing  the  Cucumber,  and  if  not  done  before  it  is 
made  into  a  bed,  it  cannot  be  done  afterward,  as  it  requires 
turning  and  managing  to  cause  it  to  ferment  freely  and 
sweetly.  Fresh  dung  from  the  stable  should  be  laid  in  a  heap, 
turned  three  times,  and  well  mixed  with  a  fork ;  if  any  ap- 
pears dry,  it  should  be  made  wet,  always  keeping  it  between 
the  two  extremes  of  wet  and  dry,  that  the  whole  may  have 
a  regular  fermentation. 

A  dry  situation  should  be  chosen  on  which  to  form  beds, 
11 


122  FORCING    CUCUMBERS. 

so  that  no  water  can  settle  under  the  dung.  Tne  substance 
of  dung  from  the  bottom  of  the  bed  should  be  from  three  to 
four  feet,  according  to  the  season  of  planting,  and  the  mould 
should  be  laid  on  as  soon  as  the  bed  is  settled,  and  has  a 
lively,  regular-tempered  heat.  Lay  the  earth  evenly  over 
the  dung,  about  six  inches  deep  ;  after  it  has  lain  a  few  days 
examine  it,  and  if  no  traces  of  a  burning  effect  are  disco- 
vered, by  the  mould  turning  of  a  whitish  colour  and  caking, 
it  will  be  fit  to  receive  the  plants ;  but  if  the  earth  appears 
burned,  or  has  a  rank  smell,  some  fresh  sweet  mould  should 
be  provided  for  the  hills,  and  placed  in  the  frame  to  get 
warm ;  at  the  same  time,  vacancies  should  be  made  to  give 
vent  to  the  steam,  by  running  down  stakes. 

After  the  situation  of  the  bed  has  been  ascertained,  and 
the  heat  regulated,  the  hole  should  be  closed,  and  the  earth 
formed  into  hills ;  raise  one  hill  in  the  centre  under  each 
sash,  so  that  the  earth  is  brought  to  within  nine  inches  of 
the  glass ;  in  these  hills,  plant  three  seedlings,  or  turn  out"*- 
such  as  may  be  in  pots,  with  the  balls  of  earth  about  their 
roots,  and  thus  insert  one  patch  of  three  plants  in  the  mid- 
dle of  each  hill.  The  plants  should  be  immediately  watered 
with  water  heated  to  the  temperature  of  the  bed,  and  kept 
shaded  till  they  have  taken  root. 

The  temperature  should  be  kept  up  to  60°,  and  may  rise 
to  80°  without  injury,  provided  the  rank  steam  be  allowed 
to  pass  off;  therefore,  as  the  heat  begins  to  decline,  timely 
linings  of  well-prepared  dung  must  be  applied  all  round  the 
frame.  Begin  by  lining  the  back  part  first ;  cut  away  the 
old  dung  perpendicularly  by  the  frame,  and  form  a  bank  two 
feet  broad,  to  the  height  of  a  foot,  against  the  back  of  the 
frames  ;  as  it  sinks,  add  more  ;  renew  the  linings  round  the 
remainder  of  the  bed  as  it  becomes  necessary,  and  be  care- 
ful to  let  off  the  steam,  and  give  air  to  the  plants  at  all  op- 
portunities. 

Give  necessary  waterings,  mostly  in  the  morning  of  a  mild 
day,  in  early  forcing ;  and  in  the  afternoon^  in  the  advanced 


FORCING    CUCUMBERS.  123 

season  of  hot  sunny  weather.  Some  use  water  impregnated 
with  sheep  or  pigeon  dung.  As  the  roots  begin  to  spread, 
and  the  vines  to  run,  the  hills  should  be  enlarged  by  gather- 
ing up  the  earth  around  them,  for  which  purpose  a  supply 
of  good  mould  should  be  kept  ready  at  hand,  to  be  used  as 
required. 

When  the  plants  have  made  one  or  two  joints,  stop  them, 
by  pinching  off  the  tops,  after  which  they  generally  put  forth 
two  shoots,  each  of  which  let  run  till  they  have  made  one  or 
two  clear  joints,  and  then  stop  them  also  ;  and  afterward  con- 
tinue throughout  the  season  to  stop  them  at  every  joint;  this 
will  strengthen  the  plants,  and  promote  their  perfecting  the 
fruit  early. 

The  following  artificial  operation  is  recommended  by 
Abercrombie,  Phial,  and  other  writers,  as  essential  to  the 
production  of  a  full  crop  of  Cucumbers  under  glass.  In 
plants  more  freely  exposed  to  the  open  air,  the  impregnation 
is  effected  by  nature.  Those  which  some  call  false  blossoms 
are  the  male  flowers,  and  are  indispensable  in  this  operation. 

"  The  Cucumber,"  Abercrombie  observes,  "  bears  male 
and  female  blossoms  distinctly  on  the  same  plant.  The  lat- 
ter only  produce  the  fruit,  which  appears  first  in  miniature, 
close  under  the  base,  even  before  the  flower  expands.  There 
is  never  any  in  the  males ;  but  these  are  placed  in  the  vici- 
nity of  the  females,  and  are  absolutely  necessary,  by  the  dis- 
persion of  their  farina,  to  impregnate  the  female  blossom ; 
the  fruit  of  which  will  not  otherwise  swell  to  its  full  size, 
and  the  seed  will  be  abortive.  The  early  plants  under  glass, 
not  having  the  full  current  of  natural  air,  nor  the  assistance 
of  bees  and  other  winged  insects  to  convey  the  farina,  the 
artificial  aid  of  the  cultivator  is  necessary  to  effect  the  im- 
pregnation. At  the  time  of  fructification,  watch  the  plants 
daily;  and  as  soon  as  the  female  flowers  and  some  male 
blossoms  are  fully  expanded,  proceed  to  set  the  fruit  the 
same  day,  or  next  morning  at  farthest.  Take  off  a  male 
blossom,  detaching  it  with  part  of  the  footstalk.  Hold  this 


124  FORWARDING    LETTUCE. 

between  the  finger  and  thumb  ;  pull  away  the  flower  leaves, 
or  petals,  close  to  the  stamens  and  antherae,  or  central  part, 
which  apply  close  to  the  pistil  in  the  bosom  of  the  female 
flower,  twirling  it  a  little  about,  to  discharge  thereon  some 
particles  of  the  fertilizing  powder.  Proceed  thus  to  set 
every  fruit,  as  the  flowers  of  both  sorts  open,  while  of  a  lively 
full  expansion  ;  and  generally  perform  it  in  the  early  part  of 
the  day,  using  a  fresh  male,  if  possible,  for  every  impregna 
lion,  as  the  males  are  usually  more  abundant  than  the  female 
blossoms.  By  this  management,  the  young  fruit  will  soon  be 
observed  to  swell  freely." 

Cucumbers  attain  the  proper  size  for  gathering  in  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  days  after  the  time  of  setting ;  and  often 
in  succession  for  two  or  three  months  or  more,  in  the  same 
beds,  by  good  culture. 


FORWARDING  CUCUMBERS  UNDER  HAND 
GLASSES. 

IF  it  be  desired  to  have  Cucumbers  in  the  open  garden  at 
an  early  season,  the  plants  may  be  raised  in  pots  as  before 
directed,  and  planted  in  a  warm  border  either  in  the  earth, 
or  in  hot-bed  ridges.  A  hand-glass  should  be  provided  for 
each  hill,  which  must  be  kept  close  down  every  night  and  in 
cool  days,  taking  care  to  admit  air  when  practicable.  The 
plants  may  be  hardened  by  degrees,  by  taking  off  the  glass 
in  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  as  the  weather  gets  warm  they 
may  be  left  to  nature. 


FORWARDING  LETTUCE  FOR  USE  IN  WINTER. 

HEAD  Lettuce  may  be  cultivated  for  use  in  the  winter 
season  by  means  of  gentle  hot-beds,  or  in  cold-beds  made 
in  the  manner  recommended  for  the  raising  of  early  Cabbage 


FORCING    MUSHROOMS.  125 

plants,  &c.  (See  article  Cabbage.)  For  such  Head  Lettuce 
as  may  be  wanted  for  use  before  Christmas,  the  Hardy  Green, 
the  Loco  Foco,  and  Coss,  are  the  most  suitable  kinds  to 
sow ;  and  plants  may  be  raised  in  the  open  border  by  sow- 
ing seed  two  or  three  times  between  the  middle  of  August 
and  the  first  week  in  September.  The  plants  from  these 
sowings  may  be  set  out,  about  six  inches  apart,  in  cold-beds, 
when  they  are  one  or  two  inches  high. 

In  September  and  early  in  October,  some  of  the  Silesia, 
Sugar  Loaf,  Butter  Lettuce,  or  any  other  esteemed  sorts, 
may  be  sown  in  a  cold-bed  frame,  which,  with  the  aid  of 
sashes,  will  produce  plants  in  from  a  month  to  six  weeks ; 
these  being  planted  in  gentle  hot-beds  in  November  and 
December,  will  produce  Head  Lettuce  until  a  plentiful  sup- 
ply can  be  obtained  from  the  open  borders.  The  same  at- 
tention is  necessary,  as  respects  the  protection  of  these  beds, 
as  for  other  half-hardy  plants. 


FORCING  MUSHROOMS  AT  ALL  SEASONS. 

THE  Jlgaricus  is  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  genus  in 
the  vegetable  kingdom.  The  species  are  determined  upon 
various  principles.  As  some  of  the  kinds  are  poisonous,  it 
is  necessary  to  describe  the  eatable  Mushroom.  London 
says,  it  is  most  readily  distinguished  when  of  a  middle  size, 
by  its  fine  pink  or  flesh-coloured  gills,  and  pleasant  smell. 
In  a  more  advanced  age,  the  gills  become  of  a  chocolate 
colour,  and  it  is  then  more  apt  to  be  confounded  with  other 
kinds  of  dubious  quality  ;  but  that  species  which  most  nearly 
resembles  it,  is  slimy  to  the  touch,  destitute  of  fine  odour, 
and  has  a  disagreeable  smell. 

Again  :  the  noxious  kinds  grow  in  woods,  while  the  true 
Mushroom  springs  up  chiefly  in  open  pastures,  and  should 
be  gathered  only  in  such  places. 

Unwholesome /imgi  will  sometimes  spring  up  on  artificial 


126  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

beds  in  gardens ;  thus,  when  the  spawn  begins  to  run,  a 
spurious  breed  is  often  found  to  precede  a  crop  of  genuine 
Mushrooms.  The  poisonous  toad-stool,  Agaricus  cirocus, 
may  generally  be  detected  by  the  presence  of  a  sickly,  nau- 
seous smell,  though  some  hurtful  kinds  are  so  free  from  any 
thing  disagreeable  in  the  smell,  as  to  make  any  criterion, 
drawn  from  that  alone,  very  unsafe.  The  wholesome  kinds, 
however,  invariably  emit  a  grateful,  rich  odour.  The  Jlga- 
ricus  campestris  is  most  generally  cultivated.  Dr.  Withering 
mentions  other  eatable  varieties,  which  grow  considerably 
larger,  but  are  inferior  in  flavour ;  he  says  "  that  a  plant  of 
the  variety  Georgia  was  gathered  in  an  old  hot-bed  at  Bir- 
mingham, which  weighed  fourteen  pounds ;  and  Mr.  Stack- 
house  found  one  fifty-four  inches  in  circumference,  having  a 
stem  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist." 

Mushrooms  may  be  obtained  at  any  season  of  the  year, 
by  a  proper  regulation  of  the  time  and  manner  of  forming 
the  beds.  A  good  crop  is  sometimes  collected  without  ma- 
king a  bed  on  purpose,  by  introducing  lumps  of  spawn  into 
the  top  mould  of  old  hot-beds. 

The  methods  of  procuring  and  propagating  spawn,  and 
of  forming  Mushroom  beds,  are  numerous.  Indigenous 
spawn  may  be  collected  in  pasture  lands  in  September  and 
October,  or  it  may  be  found  in  its  strength  and  purity  in  the 
paths  of  mills  worked  by  horses,  or  in  any  other  horse-walks 
under  shelter ;  it  is  frequently  found  in  old  hot-beds  and 
dunghills  in  the  summer  season,  and  Mushrooms  of  good 
quality  may  often  be  seen  beginning  to  form  on  the  surface, 
like  large  peas ;  when  these  are  absorbed,  it  is  time  to  take 
out  the  spawn,  which  is  generally  in  hard,  dry  lumps  of  dung, 
the  spawn  having  the  appearance  of  whitish  coarse  pieces 
of  thread.  The  true  sort  has  exactly  the  smell  of  a  Mush- 
room. If  spawn  thus  collected  be  required  for  immediate 
use,  it  may  be  planted  in  the  beds  at  once,  or  it  will  keep 
three  or  four  years,  if  laid  to  dry  with  the  earth  adhering  to 
it,  and  afterward  placed  in  a  warm,  dry  shed,  where  there 


FORCING    MUSHROOMS.  127 

is  a  current  of  air ;  but  if  it  be  not  completely  dried,  the 
spawn  will  exhaust  itself  or  perish,  as  it  will  not  bear  the 
extremes  of  heat,  cold,  or  moisture. 

Such  of  my  readers  as  may  have  hitherto  been  unac- 
quainted with  the  cultivation  of  Mushrooms,  must  perceive, 
from  the  preceding  remarks,  that  a  Mushroom  bed  is  simply 
a  heap  of  animal  dung  and  earth,  so  tempered  as  to  be  ca- 
pable of  producing  and  preserving  spawn ;  but  in  order  to 
have  fruitful  spawn  at  all  times,  it  should  be  so  formed  as 
to  be  always  at  command.  To  this  end,  a  quantity  of  fresh 
horse  droppings  mixed  with  short  litter,  should  be  collected  ; 
add  to  this  one  third  of  cow  dung,  and  a  small  portion  of 
good  earth,  to  cement  it  together;  mash  the  whole  into  a 
thin  compost,  like  grafting  clay ;  then  form  it  in  the  shape 
of  bricks  ;  which  being  done,  set  them  on  edge,  and  frequent- 
ly turn  them  until  half  dry ;  then  with  a  dibble  make  one  or 
two  holes  in  each  brick,  and  insert  in  each  hole  a  piece  of 
spawn  the  size  of  an  egg :  the  bricks  should  then  be  laid 
where  they  can  dry  gradually.  When  dry,  lay  dry  horse 
dung  on  a  level  floor,  six  or  eight  inches  thick ;  on  this,  pile 
the  bricks,  the  spawn  side  uppermost.  When  the  pile  is 
snugly  formed,  cover  it  with  a  small  portion  of  fresh  warm 
horse  dung,  sufficient  in  quantity  to  produce  a  gentle  glow 
through  the  whole.  When  the  spawn  has  spread  itself 
through  every  part  of  the  bricks,  the  process  is  ended,  and 
they  may  be  laid  up  in  any  dry  place  for  use.  Mushroom 
spawn,  made  according  to  this  receipt,  will  preserve  its  ve- 
getating powers  for  many  years,  if  well  dried  before  it  is  laid 
up ;  if  moist,  it  will  grow,  and  soon  exhaust  itself. 

Mushroom  beds  are  often  formed  in  ridges  in  the  open 
air,  covered  with  litter  and  mats,  so  as  to  prevent  heavy 
rains  exciting  a  fermentation  ;  and  sometimes  in  ridges  of  the 
same  sort  under  cover,  as  in  the  open  sheds  of  hot-houses. 
They  are  also  made  in  close  sheds  behind  hot-houses,  or  in 
houses  built  on  purpose,  called  Mushroom-houses.  A  mo- 
derately warm,  light  cellar  is  peculiarly  suited  for  the  pur- 


128  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

pose  in  the  winter  season,  as  no  fire  is  necessary,  and  but 
little  water,  the  application  of  which  frequently  proves  inju- 
rious, when  not  judiciously  managed.  Mushrooms  may  also 
be  raised  in  pots,  boxes,  hampers,  &c.,  placed  in  warm  situa- 
tions ;  in  old-beds,  in  pits  with  glazed  frames,  and  in  dark 
frames  or  pits. 

The  general  way  of  making  Mushroom  beds,  is  to  prepare 
a  body  of  stable  dung,  moderately  fermented,  about  a  yard 
in  thickness,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  size  and  situa- 
tion in  which  the  bed  is  to  be  formed  j  when  the  strong  heat 
has  subsided,  an  inch  of  good  mould  may  be  laid  over  it, 
and  the  spawn  planted  therein  in  rows  five  or  six  inches 
apart ;  after  this  is  done,  another  layer  of  mould,  an  inch 
thick,  may  be  added,  and  then  a  coat  of  straw.  Beds  well 
constructed  will  produce  Mushrooms  in  five  or  six  weeks, 
and  will  continue  to  produce  for  several  months,  if  care  be 
taken  in  gathering,  riot  to  destroy  the  young  ones.  As 
Mushrooms  are  gathered,  from  time  to  time,  the  straw  should 
be  spread  carefully  over  the  bed. 

Beds  made  in  a  convenient  place,  where  there  is  space  all 
around,  may  be  formed  so  as  to  make  four  sloping  surfaces, 
similar  to  the  roof  of  a  house ;  this,  by  being  spawned  on 
the  four  sides,  will  yield  abundantly.  The  celebrated  Mr. 
Nichol  makes  his  beds  without  spawn.  The  following  are 
his  directions,  taken  from  London's  Encyclopedia  of  Gar- 
dening : 

"  After  having  laid  a  floor  of  ashes,  stones,  chips,  gravel, 
or  brick-bats,  so  as  to  keep  the  bed  quite  dry  and  free  from 
under  damp,  lay  a  course  of  horse-droppings  six  inches  thick. 
These  should  be  new  from  the  stables,  and  must  not  be 
broken,  and  the  drier  the  better.  They  may  be  collected 
every  day  until  the  whole  floor  or  sole  be  covered  to  the 
above  thickness ;  but  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  ferment 
or  heat.  In  the  whole  process  of  making  up,  the  bed  should 
bo  as  much  exposed  to  the  air  as  possible ;  and  it  should  be 
carefully  defended  from  wet,  if  out  of  doors.  When  this 


FORCING    MUSHROOMS.  129 

course  is  quite  dry,  and  judged  to  be  past  a  state  of  fermen- 
tation, cover  it  to  the  thickness  of  two  inches  with  light,  dry 
earth ;  if  sandy,  so  much  the  better.  It  is  immaterial  whe- 
ther it  be  rich  or  not,  the  only  use  of  earth  here  being  for 
spawn  to  run  and  mass  in.  Now  lay  another  course  of  drop- 
pings, and  earth  them  over  as  above,  when  past  a  state  of 
fermentation  :  then  a  third  course,  which,  in  like  manner, 
earth  all  over.  This  finishes  the  bed,  which  will  be  a  very 
strong  and  productive  one,  if  properly  managed  afterward. 

"  Observe,  that  in  forming  the  bed,  it  should  be  a  little 
rounded,  in  order  that  the  centre  may  not  be  more  wet  or 
moist  than  the  sides.  This  may  be  done  in  forming  the  sole 
or  floor  at  first,  and  the  bed  would  then  be  of  equal  strength 
in  all  parts.  If  it  be  made  up  against  a  wall  in  a  cellar, 
stable,  or  shed,  it  may  have  a  slope  of  a  few  inches  from  the 
back  to  the  front,  less  or  more,  according  to  its  breadth.  I 
have  sometimes  been  contented  with  two  courses  as  above, 
instead  of  three ;  and  often,  when  materials  were  scarce, 
have  made  them  up  slighter,  thus  :  three  four-inch  courses 
of  droppings,  with  one  inch  of  earth  between  each,  and  a 
two-inch  covering  at  top.  Such  a  bed  as  this,  I  have  had 
produce  for  ten  or  .twelve  months  together  ;  but  very  much 
depends  on  the  state  of  the  materials,  and  on  the  care  taken 
in  making  it  up,  also  on  the  after  management. 

"  The  droppings  of  hard-fed  horses  only  are  useful.  Those 
of  horses  kept  on  green  food  will,  of  themselves,  produce 
few  or  no  mushrooms.  I  have  made  up  beds  from  farm 
horses,  fed  partly  on  hard  and  partly  on  green  food,  and 
from  carriage  or  saddle  horses,  fed  entirely  on  corn  and  hay; 
treated  them  in  the  same  way  in  every  respect ;  and  have 
found,  not  once,  but  always,  those  made  from  the  latter  most 
productive.  Droppings  from  hard-fed  horses  may  be  pro- 
cured at  the  public  stables  in  towns,  or  at  inns  in  the  coun- 
try, any  time  of  the  year ;  and  if  the  supply  be  plentiful,  a 
bed  of  considerable  dimensions  may  be  made  and  finished 
within  five  or  six  weeks.  In  as  many  more  weeks,  if  in  a 


130  FORCING    MUSHROOMS. 

stable  or  dry  cellar,  or  a  flued  shed,  it  will  begin  to  produce, 
and  often  sooner ;  but  if  the  situation  of  the  bed  be  cold,  it 
will  sometimes  be  two  or  three  months  in  producing  Mush- 
rooms." 

It  may  be  necessary  to  state  farther,  that  extremes  of  heat, 
cold,  drought,  and  moisture,  should  be  avoided  in  the  culti- 
vation of  Mushrooms.  If  the  temperature  keeps  up  to  50°  in 
the  winter,  the  beds  will  be  safe,  and  the  heat  in  the  beds 
may  rise  to  60°  or  even  70°  without  injury.  Air  also  must 
be  admitted  in  proportion  to  the  heat,  and  60°  should  be 
aimed  at  as  a  medium  temperature.  Water,  when  given  a 
little  at  a  time,  is  better  than  too  much  at  once,  after  the 
spawn  has  begun  to  spread  ;  and  the  water  for  this  purpose 
should  always  be  made  blood  warm.  A  light  covering  of 
straw  may  be  used  to  preserve  moisture  on  the  surface  ;  and 
if  the  beds  are  made  in  open  frames,  or  otherwise  subject  to 
exposure,  the  straw  may  be  laid  thicker  than  on  beds  made 
in  a  cellar. 

Should  beds  fail  in  producing  Mushrooms  after  having 
been  kept  over  hot  or  wet,  it  may  be  inferred  that  the  spawn 
is  injured  or  destroyed ;  but  if,  on  the  contrary,  a  bed  that 
has  been  kept  moderately  warm  and  dry,  should  happen  to 
be  unproductive,  such  bed  may  be  well  replenished  with 
warm  water,  and  a  coat  of  warm  dung  may  be  laid  over  the 
whole.  If  this  does  not  enliven  the  bed  after  having  lain  a 
month,  take  off  the  earth  ;  and  if,  on  examination,  there  is 
no  appearance  of  spawn,  the  whole  may  be  destroyed;  but 
if,  on  the  contrary,  the  bed  should  contain  spawn,  it  may  be 
renovated  by  covering  it  again,  especially  if  any  small  tuber- 
cles be  discernible  ;  if  the  heat  should  have  declined,  the 
spawn  may  be  taken  out  and  used  in  a  fresh  bed.  If  beds 
oe  formed  in  hot-bed  frames  under  glass,  some  mats  or  straw 
must  be  laid  over  the  glass  to  break  off  the  intense  heat  of 
the  sun. 

Although  only  one  species  of  edible  fungi  has  yet  been 
introduced  into  the  garden,  there  are  several  eatable  kinds. 


FORWARDING  MELONS  UNDER  HAND-GLASSES.  131 

In  Poland  and  Russia  there  are  above  thirty  kinds  in  com- 
mon use  among  the  peasantry.  They  are  gathered  at  diffe- 
rent stages  of  their  growth,  and  used  in  various  ways  :  rarw, 
boiled,  stewed,  roasted ;  and  being  hung  up,  and  dried  in 
their  stoves  and  chimneys,  form  a  part  of  their  winter  stock 
of  provisions.  Great  caution  is  necessary  in  collecting 
Mushrooms  for  food,  and  none  but  the  botanist  should  gather 
any  but  the  kinds  we  have  described.*  Physicians  say, 
"  That  all  the  edible  species  should  be  thoroughly  masticated 
before  they  are  taken  into  the  stomach,  as  this  greatly  lessens 
the  effect  of  poisons.  When  accidents  of  the  sort  happen, 
vomiting  should  be  immediately  excited,  and  then  the  vege 
table  acids  should  be  given,  either  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  or 
that  of  apples  ;  after  which,  give  ether  and  anti-spasmodic 
remedies,  to  stop  the  excessive  vomiting.  Infusions  of  gall- 
nut,  oak  bark,  and  Peruvian  bark,  are  recommended  as  capa- 
ble of  neutralizing  the  poisonous  principle  of  Mushrooms." 
It  is,  however,  the  safest  way  not  to  eat  any  but  the  well- 
known  kinds. 


FORWARDING  MELONS  UNDER  HAND-GLASSES. 

ALTHOUGH  our  citizens  have  an  opportunity  of  procuring 
Melons  without  artificial  aid,  yet,  as  their  continuance  is  short, 
it  may  not  be  amiss  to  remind  the  gardener  that  the  direc- 
tions already  given  for  maturing  Cucumbers  under  glass  will 
apply  to  Melons,  with  very  few  exceptions  ;  care,  however, 
must  be  taken  that  they  be  kept  away  from  each  other  at  the 
time  of  fruiting,  as  instances  often  occur  of  whole  crops 
being  entirely  ruined,  by  plants  of  the  same  genus  being 


*  In  order  to  ascertain  whether  what  appear  to  be  Mushrooms  are  of  the 
true  edible  kinds,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  the  inner  or  spongy  part ;  if,  in 
a  short  time  after,  they  turn  yellow,  they  are  unwholesome  ;  but  if  black, 
they  may  be  considered  as  genuine  Mushrooms. 


132  FORCING   PEAS    IN    HOT-BEDS. 

raised  too  near  each  other.  Those  who  wish  to  forward 
Melons,  may  prepare  a  hot-bed  in  March  or  April,  to  raise 
plants  in ;  the  beds  may  be  formed  and  the  plants  managed 
in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  is  directed  for  Cucumbers. 
If  the  ridging  system  be  adopted,  and  a  hand-glass  applied 
to  each  hill,  Melons  may  be  obtained  one  month  earlier  than 
the  usual  time. 

Gardeners  raising  Melons  for  the  supply  of  city  markets, 
may  gratify  the  public  taste  early  in  the  season,  by  pursuing 
the  forwarding,  if  not  the  forcing  system.  Ridges  may  be 
prepared  in  the  following  manner  :  In  April  or  May,  a  trench 
may  be  dug  in  a  warm  border,  about  two  feet  deep  and 
three  wide,  and  of  sufficient  length  for  as  many  hand-glasses 
as  are  intended  to  be  employed,  allowing  three  feet  for  every 
hill.  Some  good  heating  manure  should  be  laid  in  the  pits, 
managed  the  same  as  a  common  hot-bed ;  to  this  must  be 
added  good  rich  mould  to  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten  inches 
for  the  plants  to  grow  in ;  as  soon  as  the  mould  is  warm,  the 
seedlings  may  be  planted,  three  plants  in  each  hill,  after 
which  the  hand-glasses  should  be  set  on,  and  shaded.  After 
the  plants  have  taken  root  and  began  to  grow,  the  glasses 
should  be  raised  in  fine  days,  and  propped  up  so  as  to  admit 
fresh  air ;  and  as  the  warm  weather  progresses,  they  may  be 
taken  off  in  the  middle  of  fine  days  so  as  to  harden  the 
plants  gradually  to  the  weather ;  and  by  the  latter  end  of 
May  they  may  be  left  to  nature. 


FORCING  PEAS  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

THE  best  kinds  of  Peas  to  force,  are  those  that  are  the 
most  dwarfish,  and  the  seed  is  better  for  being  two  or  three 
years  old,  as  they  will  bear  earlier,  and  make  less  straw. 
Peas  run  less  to  vine  by  being  transplanted,  than  when  they 
are  sown  where  they  are  to  remain  ;  the  plants  may  be  raised 
in  a  gentle  hot-bed,  either  in  the  earth  of  the  bed,  or  in  pots 


FORCING    POTATOES.  133 

or  boxes.  They  do  not  require  excessive  heat ;  the  tempe- 
rature must  be  progressive  ;  beginning  at  about  50°  for  the 
nursery-bed,  and  from  that  to  60°  or  65°  for  fruiting. 

When  the  leaves  of  the  plants  are  fairly  expanded,  they 
may  be  transplanted  into  rows  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
apart ;  observe,  the  earth  in  the  fruiting  bed  should  be  from 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  depth. 

As  the  Peas  pi  ogress  in  growth,  the  earth  should  be  stir- 
red ;  and  when  six  inches  high,  small  sticks  may  be  applied, 
so  that  the  tendrills  of  the  Peas  may  easily  take  hold ;  and 
they  should  be  moulded  at  the  bottom  to  enable  them  to  sup- 
port themselves. 

When  they  are  in  blossom,  nip  the  top  off;  this  greatly 
promotes  the  forming  and  filling  of  the  pods ;  they  will  re- 
quire to  be  regularly  watered,  and  as  the  v spring  advances 
they  may  be  exposed  to  the  weather,  taking  care  to  sneuei 
them  in  the  event  of  a  sudden  change. 


FORCING  POTATOES  IN  HOT-BEDS. 

POTATOES  may  be  forced  in  a  great  variety  of  ways.  Those 
who  attempt  to  mature  Potatoes  in  frames,  will  of  course 
provide  such  of  the  earliest  kinds  as  are  not  inclined  to  pro- 
duce large  tops  ;  the  Broughton  Dwarf,  Early  Mule,  Nonpa- 
reil, the  Oak,  and  the  Ash-leaved,  are  of  this  description. 

Potatoes  may  be  forwarded  in  giowth  previous  to  being 
planted  in  the  beds,  by  placing  them  in  a  warm,  damp  cellar. 
Some  forward  them  in  pots  and  boxes,  and  afterward  mature 
them  in  a  hot-bed ;  others  plant  them  in  the  bed  at  once,  in 
which  case  the  bed  should  be  moulded  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
inches  deep,  and  the  heating  materials  should  be  sufficient 
to  keep  up  a  moderate  heat  for  two  or  three  months. 

Perhaps  the  most  convenient  way  to  force  Potatoes  in  this 
elimate,  is  to  provide  pots  for  the  purpose ;  plant  one  set  in 
each  pot  in  January,  and  set  them  in  a  warm  cellar,  till  a  bed 

12 


134  FORWARDING    RADISHES,  ETC. 

can  be  prepared  in  February,  in  which  put  the  pots.  While 
the  tuberous  roots  are  forming,  and  before  they  fill  the  pots, 
prepare  the  beds  for  maturing  them,  and  then  bury  them  in 
the  mould  with  the  balls  of  earth  attached  to  them. 

The  beds  should  be  kept  free  from  frost,  and  air  should 
be  given  at  every  opportunity.  The  common  round  Potatoes 
may  be  forwarded,  by  laying  them  thick  together  in  a  slight 
hot-bed  in  March,  and  when  they  are  planted  in  the  borders, 
a  quantity  of  comb-maker's  shavings  may  be  deposited  in 
each  hill ;  this  will  greatly  promote  their  growth. 


FORWARDING  RADISHES,  &c. 

RADISHES  may  be  obtained  early  in  the  spring  by  means 
of  a  moderate  hot-bed.  The  earth  in  the  frame  should  be 
a  foot  in  depth,  and  air  should  be  admitted  every  day  after 
they  are  up,  or  they  will  incline  more  to  tops  than  roots.  If 
they  come  up  too  thick,  they  should  be  thinned  to  one  or 
two  inches  apart.  Give  gentle  waterings  as  occasion  re- 
quires, and  keep  them  well  covered  in  cold  nights. 

For  raising  early  Radishes  without  frames,  hot-beds  may 
be  made  in  ridges,  and  arched  over  with  hoop  bends,  or 
pliant  rods,  which  should  be  covered  with  mats  at  night,  and 
during  the  day  in  very  cold  weather.  In  moderate  days, 
turn  up  the  mats  at  the  warmest  side ;  and  on  fine  mild  days, 
take  them  wholly  off,  and  harden  the  plants  gradually  to  the 
weather. 

Turnips,  Carrots,  Onions,  or  any  kind  of  salads  or  pot 
herbs,  may  be  raised  in  the  same  way,  by  sowing  the  seed  in 
drills  and  keeping  the  ground  clear  of  weeds. 


FORWARDING   RHUBARB.  135 

*jttfe*/< 

FORWARDING  RHUBARB.  . 

THOSE  who  may  desire  to  have  this  excellent  substitute  for 
fruit  at  an  early  season,  may  procure  it  without  much  trouble. 
It  is  customary  with  some  persons  in  the  southern  parts  of 
England,  to  keep  this  plant  growing  in  their  kitchens,  so  that 
they  may  have  it  for  use  at  any  time.  They  have  strong 
neat  boxes,  made  for  the  purpose,  about  three  feet  deep  and 
two  wide,  and  in  length  according  to  the  demand,  from  four 
to  eight  feet ;  these  being  kept  clean,  have  the  appearance 
of  flour-bins,  and  they  are  sometimes  so  contrived  as  to  have 
shelves  over  them  in  imitation  of  a  kitchen  dresser.  The 
plants  being  taken  up  out  of  the  garden  towards  winter,  are 
placed  as  close  at  the  bottom  of  the  box  as  they  can  be,  with 
their  crowns  level :  and  some  sand  being  thrown  over,  suf- 
ficient to  fill  up  the  interstices,  and  to  cover  the  crowns 
about  half  an  inch,  finishes  the  operation.  No  farther 
trouble  is  necessary,  except  to  give  a  little  water,  just  to  keep 
the  roots  moist,  as  they  need  no  light  at  all ;  and  if  the  roots 
be  planted  in  the  garden  when  spring  opens,  they  will,  after 
having  taken  root,  vegetate  as  strongly  as  before  they  were 
removed. 

Roots  of  Rhubarb  taken  up  in  the  autumn,  packed  in  sand, 
and  deposited  in  a  warm  cellar,  will  produce  stalks  earlier 
than  if  kept  in  the  garden ;  and  if  placed  in  hot-beds  they 
will  yield  abundantly,  and  that  at  a  very  early  season. 

t  The  consumption  of  this  plant  in  the  British  metropolis 
may  be  judged  of  by  the  following  extract  from  the  London 
Gardener's  Magazine  :  "  Rhubarb,  which  has  for  some  years 
been  cultivated,  is  still  a  subject  of  increasing  interest,  and 
more  extensively  in  demand  than  ever.  On  the  fifth  of  May, 
no  less  than  eight  wagon  loads,  each  weighing  at  least  a  ton, 
with  an  equal  quantity  in  smaller  proportions,  were  sold  in 
Covent  Garden  market  alone.  One  cultivator,  Mr.  Myatt, 
of  New  Cross,  Deptford,  had  three  wagon  loads ;  he  has,  I 
believe,  nearly  twenty  acres  of  it  under  culture."  This  plant 


13$  FORWARDING    TOMATOES. 

contains  an  acid  as  fine  as  the  Gooseberry,  for  pies  and  tarts ; 
a- square  rod'of  ground  will  sujjply  a  family ;  and  it  may  be 
used  till  midsummer  or  later.  [For  fuller  explanations,  see 
article  Rhubarb.]  * 


FORWARDING  SALAD  HERBS,  SMALL  PLANTS, 

&c. 

FOR  the  purpose  of  raising  Mustard,  Cress,  and  other  salad 
herbs,  also  Egg-plants,  Tomato  plants,  &c  ,  in  small  quanti- 
ties, a  hot-bed  may  be  made,  early  in  the  spring,  of  good 
heating  materials,  on  the  top  of  which  may  be  laid  leaf  mould, 
old  tan,  or  light  compost,  to  the  depth  of  about  nine  inches. 
The  various  kinds  of  seed  may  be  sown  in  boxes  or  flower- 
pots, and  plunged  in  the  top  mould  up  to  their  rims,  and  by 
being  well  attended  to,  a  supply  of  small  salads,  as  well  as 
small  seedling  plants,  may  be  raised  without  much  labour  or 
difficulty.  This  method  is  also  well  calculated  for  raising 
annual  flower  plants  at  an  early  season. 


FORWARDING  TOMATOES. 

As  this  vegetable  has  become  highly  appreciated  of  late 
years  for  its  excellent  qualities,  it  may  be  necessary  here  to 
observe,  that  plants  raised  from  seed  sown  in  hot-beds  the  lat- 
ter end  of  February,  or  early  in  March,  as  directed  in  former 
pages,  will  grow  to  the  length  of  four  inches  and  upward  by 
the  first  of  April,  which  is  one  month  earlier  than  they  can 
with  safety  be  trusted  in  the  open  garden.  If  a  few  of  these 
be  pulled  from  the  hot-bed,  and  transplanted  into  flower-pots, 
they  may  be  kept  growing  therein  until  settled  warm  weather, 
and  then  turned  out  afad  deposited  in  the  ground  with  the 
balls  of  earth  entire ;  or  a  fruiting-bed  may  be  prepared  by 
the  first  of  April,  in  the  manner  recommended  for  Bush 


FORCING    VEGETABLES.  137 

Beans,  Cucumbers,  &c.,  and  the  plants  inserted  in  the  earth 
at  once ;  these  will  produce  ripe  fruit  a  month  or  six  weeks 
earlier  than  those  cultivated  in  the  ordinary  way. 


FORCING  VARIOUS  KINDS  OF  VEGETABLES^ 

TIJE  following  simple  method  «of  forcing  vegetables  on  a 
small  scale  is  recommended  by  a  correspondent  of  a  London 
magazine  : 

"  Mushrooms  in  winter  I  obtain  by  a  very  simple,  though 
not  a  new  process.  Provide  boxes  three  feet  long,  and  one 
foot  eight  inches  deep ;  a  quantity  of  horse  droppings,  per- 
fectly dry ;  some  spawn  and  some  light  dry  soil.  Fill  the 
boxes  by  layers  of  droppings,  spawn,  and  soil,  which  must 
be  trodden  perfectly  tight ;  repeat  these  triple  layers  till  the 
boxes  are  full,  and  all  trodden  firmly  together. 

"  Four  such  boxes  at  work  are  sufficient  for  a  moderate 
demand ;  and  of  a  dozen,  four  brought  in  at  a  time,  and 
placed  upon  a  flue  of  a  green-house  stove,  will  produce  a 
fine  supply.  The  surface  of  these  portable  beds  may  be 
covered  with  a  little  hay,  and  occasionally,  though  sparingly, 
watered.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  that  they  be  set  on 
the  flue  of  a  green-house  ;  a  warm  stable,  cellar,  or  any  other 
similar  place,  will  suit  equally  well.  This  plan  is  also  con- 
venient for  affording  a  plentiful  stock  of  superior  spawn. 

"  The  same  sized  boxes  will  also  do  for  Asparagus ;  but 
for  this  purpose  a  sufficient  stock  of  three-year-old  plants 
must  be  at  hand ;  also  eighteen  boxes,  four  of  which  are  the 
necessary  set  to  be  forced  at  one  time  for  a  middling  family. 
Half  fill  the  boxes  with  decayed  tanner's  bark,  leaf  mould, 
or  any  similar  mould  ;  on  this,  pack  the  roots  as  thickly  as 
possible,  and  fill  up  the  boxes  with  the  bark,  &c.  Any  place 
in  a  forcing-house  will  suit  them :  on  the  flue,  under  the 
stage,  or,  in  short,  any  place  where  they  can  enjoy  the  ne- 

1/3 


138  FORCING    VEGETABLES. 

cessary  degree  of  heat.  Besides  Asparagus  and  Mush- 
rooms, Sea-Kale,  Buda-Kale,  Angelica,  small  salad,  as  also 
various  pot  herbs,  may  be  raised  in  the  same  manner." 

Those  who  have  not  the  conveniences  recommended  in  a 
green-house,  &c.,  may  place  the  boxes  in  a  hot-bed.  The 
glasses  being  laid  on,  and  the  beds  covered  at  night,  will  soon. 

Cmote  the  growth  of  the  plants,   and  produce  vegetable 
uries  at  a  season  when  garden  products  in  general  are 
comparatively  scarce. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  show  of  how  much  value  such  pro- 
cesses may  be  in  minor  establishments,  or  in  a  young  country. 
I  wish  it  to  be  understood,  that  in  order  to  the  successful 
cultivation  of  some  of  the  rare  vegetables  I  have  treated  of, 
great  pains  must  be  taken  in  every  stage  of  their  growth. 
If  the  advice  I  have  given  be  attended  to,  I  flatter  myself 
we  shall  soon  obtain  a  supply  of  many  of  these  luxuries  of 
the  garden.  My  directions  are  founded  on  the  success 
attending  the  practice  of  some  of  the  best  gardeners  in  this 
country.  I  have  also  had  sufficient  experience  to  warrant 
me  in  this  attempt  to  contribute  my  mite  toward  the  atta*n- 
ment  of  this  kind  of  useful  knowledge. 


METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP.  189 

METHOD  OF  CULTIVATING  THE  HOP. 

HOUBLON.     Hmnulus  lupuhis. 

. 
ALTHOUGH  the  Hop  is  not  a  culinary  vegetable,  yet,  as  it 

is  more  or  less  used  in  every  part  of  our  country,  it  may  not 
be  amiss  to  treat  of  its  culture.  It  is  presumed,  that,  in  pro- 
portion as  habits  of  temperance  are  inculcated,  our  citizens 
will  have  recourse  to  beer  as  a  wholesome  beverage ;  and  as 
a  great  deal  depends  on  the  manner  in  which  Hops  are 
cured,  1  propose  giving  directions  for  their  management 
throughout,  so  as  to  enable  those  who  choose,  to  prepare 
their  own.  My  information  is  collected  chiefly  from  London's 
Encyclopaedia  of  Plants.' 

"  The  Hop  has  been  cultivated  in  jSurope  an  unknown 
length  of  time  for  its  flowers,  which  are  used  for  preserving 
beer.  Its  culture  was  introduced  from  Flanders  in  the  reign 
of  Henry  the  Eighth ;  though  indigenous  both  in  Scotland 
and  Ireland,  it  is  little  cultivated  in  those  countries,  owing  to 
the  humidity  of  their  autumnal  season.  Like  other  plants 
of  this  sort,  the  Hop  bears  its  flowers  on  different  individuals  ; 
the  female  plants,  therefore,  are  alone  cultivated.  There 
are  several  varieties  grown  in  Kent  and  Surrey,  under  the 
name  of  Flemish,  Canterbury,  Goldings,  &c. ;  the  first  is  the 
most  hardy,  differing  little  from  the  Wild  or  Hedge  Hop  ; 
the  Golding  is  an  improved  and  highly  productive  variety, 
but  more  subject  to  blight  than  the  other.* 

"  The  Hop  prefers  a  deep  loamy  soil  on  a  dry  bottom ;  a 
sheltered  situation,  but  at  the  same  time  not  so  confined  as 
to  prevent  a  free  circulation  of  air.  The  soil  requires  to  be 
well  pulverized  and  manured  previous  to  planting.  In  Hop 
districts,  the  ground  is  generally  trenched  either  with  a 

*  Besides  these  are  the  Farnham,  or  Golden  Grape,  which  is  cultivated 
for  an  early  crop  ;  and  for  late  picking,  the  Mayficld  Grape,  or  Ruffler,  is 
esteemed,  which  is  a  dwarfish  variety.  Great  caution  is  necessary,  lest  the 
varieties  get  mixed,  #s  they  will  not  ripen  or  dry  equally,  and  consequently 
cannot  be  of  one  uniform  colour  and  quality. 


140  METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP. 

plough  or  spade.  The  mode  of  planting  is  generally  in  rows 
six  feet  apart,  and  the  same  distance  in  the  row.  By  some, 
five,  six,  or  seven  plants,  are  placed  in  a  circular  form,  which 
circles  are  distant  five  or  six  feet  from  each  other.  The 
plants  or  cuttings  are  procured  from  the  most  healthy  of  the 
old  stools ;  each  should  have  two  joints  or  buds  :  from  the 
one  which  is  placed  in  the  ground  springs  the  root,  and  from 
the  other  the  stalk.  Some  plant  the  cuttings  at  once  where 
they  are  to  remain,  and  by  others  they  are  nursed  a  year  in 
a  garden.  An  interval  crop  of  Beans  or  Cabbage  is  gene- 
rally taken  the  first  year.  Sometimes  no  poles  are  placed 
at  the  plants  till  the  second  year,  and  then  only  short  ones 
of  six  or  seven  feet.  The  third  year  the  "Hop  generally 
comes  into  full  bearing,  and  then  from  four  to  six  poles, 
from  fourteen  to  sixteen  feet  in  length,  are  placed  to  each 
circle,  or  one  pole  to  each  plant,  if  cultivated  in  straight 
rows.  The  most  durable  timber  for  poles  is  that  oi  the  Span- 
ish Chesnut. 

"  The  after  culture  of  the  Hop  consists  in  stirring  the  soil, 
and  keeping  it  free  from  weeds ;  in  guiding  the  shoots  to  the 
poles,  and  sometimes  tying  them  for  that  purpose  with  bass 
or  withered  rushes ;  in  eradicating  superfluous  shoots  which 
may  rise  from  the  root,  and  in  raising  a  small  heap  of  earth 
over  the  root  to  nourish  the  plant. 

"  Hops  are  known  to  be  ready  for  gathering  when  the 
chaffy  capsules  acquire  a  brown  colour,  and  a  firm  consist- 
ence. Each  chaffy  capsule,  or  leaf  calyx,  contains  one  seed. 
Before  these  are  picked,  the  stalks  are  detached,  and  the 
poles  pulled  up,  and  placed  horizontally  on  frames  of  wood, 
two  or  three  poles  at  a  time.  The  Hops  are  then  picked  off 
by  women  and  children.  After  being  carefully  separated 
from  the  leaves  and  stalks,  they  are  dropped  into  a  large 
cloth  hung  all  round  within  the  frame  on  tenter  hooks. 
When  the  cloth  is  full,  the  Hops  are  emptied  into  a  large 
sack,  which  is  carried  home,  and  the  Hops  laid  on  a  kiln  to 
be  dried.  This  is  always  to  be  done  as  soon  as  possible  after 


METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP.  ]  41 

the)  are  picked,  or  they  are  apt  to  sustain  considerable 
damage,  both  in  colour  and  flavour,  if  allowed  to  remain 
long  in  the  green  state  in  which  they  are  picked.  In  very 
warm  weather,  and  when  they  are  picked  in  a  moist  state, 
they  will  often  heat  in  five  or  six  hours ;  for  this  reason,  the 
kilns  are  kept  constantly  at  work,  both  night  and  day,  from  the 
commencement  to  the  conclusion  of  the  Hop-picking  season. 

"  The  operation  of  drying  Hops  is  not  materially  different 
from  that  of  drying  malt,  and  the  kilns  are  of  the  same  con- 
struction. The  Hops  are  spread  on  a  hair  cloth,  from  eight 
to  twelve  inches  deep,  according  as  the  season  is  dry  or  wet, 
or  the  Hops  ripe  or  immature.  When  the  ends  of  the  Hop 
stalks  become  quite  shrivelled  and  dry,  they  are  taken  off 
the  kiln,  and  laid  on  a  boarded  floor  till  they  become  quite 
cool,  when  they  are  put  into  bags. 

"  The  bagging  of  Hops  is  thus  performed  :  in  the  floor  of 
the  room  where  Hops  are  laid  to  cool,  there  is  a  round  hole 
or  trap,  equal  in  size  to  the  mouth  of  a  Hop-bag.  After 
tying  a  handful  of  Hops  in  each  of  the  lower  corners  of  a 
large  bag,  which  serve  after  for  handles,  the  mouth  of  the 
bag  is  fixed  securely  to  a  strong  hoop,  which  is  made  to  rest 
on  the  edge  of  the  hole  or  trap ;  and  the  bag  itself  being 
then  dropped  through  the  hole,  the  packers  go  into  it,  when 
a  person  who  attends  for  the  purpose,  puts  in  the  Hops  in 
small  quantities,  in  order  to  give  the  packer  an  opportunity 
of  packing  and  trampling  them  as  hard  as  possible.  When 
the  bag  is  filled,  and  the  Hops  trampled  in  so  hard  that  it 
will  hold  no  more,  it  is  drawn  up,  unloosed  from  the  hoop, 
and  the  end  sewed  up,  two  other  handles  having  been  pre- 
viously formed  in  the  corners  in  the  manner  mentioned  above. 
The  brightest  and  finest  coloured  Hops  are  put  into  pockets 
or  fine  bagging,  and  the  brown  into  coarse  or  heavy  bagging. 
The  former  are  chiefly  used  for  brewing  fine  ale,  and  the 
latter  by  the  porter  brewers.  But  when  Hops  are  intended 
to  be  kept  two  or  three  years,  they  are  put  into  bags  of  strong 
cloth,  and  firmly  pressed  so  as  to  exclude  the  air. 


142  METHOD    OF    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP. 

"  The  stripping  and  stacking  of  the  poles  succeed  to  the 
operation  of  picking.  The  shoot  or  bind  being  stripped  off, 
such  poles  as  are  not  decayed,  are  set  up  together  in  a  coni- 
cal pile  of  three  or  four  hundred,  the  centre  of  which  is 
formed  by  three  stout  poles  bound  together  a  few  feet  from 
their  tops,  and  their  lower  ends  spread  out. 

"  The  produce  of  no  crop  is  so  liable  to  variation  as  that 
of  the  Hop ;  in  good  seasons  an  acre  will  produce  20  cwt., 
but  from  JO  to  12  cwt.  is  considered  a  tolerable  average  crop. 
The  quality  of  Hops  is  estimated  by  the  abundance  or  scarcity 
of  an  unctuous  clammy  powder  which  adheres  to  them,  and 
by  their  bright  yellow  colour.  The  expenses  of  forming  a 
Hop  plantation  are  considerable  ;  but  once  in  bearing,  it  will 
continue  so  for  ten  or  fifteen  years  before  it  requires  to  be 
renewed.  The  Hop  is  peculiarly  liable  to  diseases ;  when 
young  it  is  devoured  by  fleas  of  different  kinds ;  at  a  more 
advanced  stage,  it  is  attacked  by  the  green  fly,  red  spider, 
and  ottermoth,  the  larva?  of  which  prey  even  upon  their  roots. 
The  honey-dew  often  materially  injures  the  Hop  crop ;  and 
the  mould,  the  fire-blast,  and  other  blights,  injure  it  at  differ- 
ent times  toward  the  latter  period  of  the  growth  of  the  plant." 

It  appears  from  an  article  in  the  '  Genesee  Farmer,'  that 
the  culture  of  Hops  is  becoming  an  important  branch  of  hus- 
bandry in  the  State  of  New- York.  A  correspondent  observes, 
that  "  as  fine  samples  have  been  grown  in  Orange  and  Ma- 
dison counties  as  in  any  .part  of  the  world.  The  Hop  is  con- 
sidered somewhat  precarious ;  but  when  the  season  is  good, 
the  profit  is  very  great.  The  average  product  may  be  stated 
at  700  Ibs.,  though  it  has  reached  1,600  Ibs.  to  the  acre  ;  and 
in  the  latter  case  the  expenses  amounted  to  sixty  dollars. 
The  ordinary,  or  average  price,  may  be  stated  at  eighteen 
cents  per  pound.  The  profits  on  an  ordinary  crop,  accord- 
ing to  these  assumed  data,  would  be  about  seventy  dollars  to 
the  acre.  It  often  falls  materially  short  of  this,  however, 
from  the  want  of  knowledge  and  care  in  gathering  and  dry- 
ing the  crop. 


METHOD    OP    CULTIVATING    THE    HOP.  143 

"  The  quantity  of  Hops  taken  to  Albany  and  the  neigh- 
oouring  towns  on  the  Hudson,  this  year  (1834),  has  been 
estimated  at  2,300  bales,  or  50,000  Ibs.,  which,  had  not  many 
of  them  been  prematurely  gathered,  or  badly  cured,  would 
have  yielded  to  the  growers  ninety  or  a  hundred  thousand 
dollars.  But  of  the  2,300  bales  there  was  not  more  than 
200  bales,  we  are  informed,  that  ought  to  have  received  the 
denomination  of  first  sorts.  Many  of  them  were  picked  too 
early,  before  the  matter  that  imparts  to  them  their  value  was 
sufficiently  developed ;  and  others  were  scorched  or  smoked 
in  curing.  This  carelessness  has  seriously  affected  the  char- 
acter of-our  Hops  abroad,  and  they  are  no  longer  purchased 
by  the  Philadelphia  brewers.  They  would  soon  form  an  im- 
portant article  of  export,  if  their  character  was  raised  by 
care  in  their  culture  and  drying,  and  a  w.gid  inspection." 

The  young  shoots  of  both  wild  and  cultivated  Hops  are 
considered  by  some  as  very  wholesome,  and  are  frequently 
gathered  in  the  spring,  boiled,  and  eaten  as  Asparagus.  The 
stalks  and  leaves  will  dye  wool  yellow.  From  the  stalk  a 
strong  cloth  is  made  in  Sweden,  the  mode  of  preparing  which 
is  described  by  Linnaeus  in  his  Flora  Suecica.  A  decoction 
of  the  roots  is  said  to  be  as  good  a  sudorific  as  Sarsaparma ; 
and  the  smell  of  the  flowers  is  soporific.  A  pillow  filled  with 
Hop  flowers  will  induce  sleep,  unattended  with  the  bad  effects 
of  soporifics,  which  require  to  be  taken  internally. 


144  OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE    WEATHER. 

OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  WEATHER,  AS  INFLU- 
ENCED  BY  CHANGES  OF  THE  MOON. 

LEST  the  reader  should  judge,  from  my  introducing  this 
subject,  that  I  am  an  advocate  for  moon-planting,  in  any 
other  sense  than  in  ascribing  the  various  changes  of  the 
weather  to  the  influence  of  that  great  luminary,  I  would  here 
offer  a  few  observations  in  reference  to  the  practice  and 
prejudices  of  many  persons  in  choosing  the  first  quarter  of 
the  moon  for  planting  such  vegetables  as  yield  their  produce 
above  the  surface,  as  Cabbage,  &c.,  and  the  last  quarter  01 
wane  of  the  moon  for  such  as  grow  and  yield  their  produce 
chiefly  in  the  earth,  and  below  the  surface,  as  Potatoes.  &c. 

I  would  first  observe,  that  if  the  moon  has  any  direct  in- 
fluence over  vegetable  productions,  it  must  operate  in  many 
cases  quite  the  reverse  to  what  these  theorists  generally  ex- 
pect ;  for  instance,  if  the  earth  and  weather  should  happen 
to  be  dry  in  the  first  week  after  planting  certain  species  of 
seed,  such  would  fail  to  germinate,  for  want  of  its  most 
essential  nutriment,  moisture;  and  in  consequence  of  such 
seed  lying  dormant  in  the  earth,  until  after  another  change  of 
the  moon,  if  that  luminary  influences  the  seed  at  all,  in  such 
case  it  must  be  contrary  to  the  objects  of  the  honest  planter. 

As  I  deem  this  argument  alone  sufficient  to  shake  the 
foundation  of  moon-planting,  in  the  sense  I  have  described, 
I  shall  at  once  submit  to  the  reader's  attention  the  following 
observations  and  table,  from  the  pen  of  the  justly  celebrated 
Dr.  Adam  Clarke.  Some  exceptions,  however,  may  be  taken 
to  his  rules,  with  regard  to  the  wind,  which  does  not  operate 
in  all  places  alike.  For  example,  in  rainy  seasons  with  us, 
the  wind  is  generally  east,  northeast,  or  southeast,  and  cold 
weather  is  attended  by  a  northwest  wind.  In  England,  where 
these  calculations  were  made,  it  is  in  some  respects  different : 

"  From  my  earliest  childhood  I  was  bred  up  on  a  little 
farm,  which  I  was  taught  to  care  for  and  cultivate  ever  since 
I  was  able  to  spring  the  rattle,  use  the  whip,  manage  the 


OBSERVATIONS    ON    THE  WEATHER.  14/> 

sickle,  or  handle  the  spade ;  and  as  I  found  that  much  of  our 
success  depended  on  a  proper  knowledge  and  management 
of  the  weather,  I  was  led  to  study  it  ever  since  I  was  eight 
years  of  age.  I  believe  meteorology  is  a  natural  science, 
and  one  of  the  first  that  is  studied  ;  and  that  every  child  in 
the  country  makes,  untaught,  some  progress  in  it ;  at  least,  so 
it  was  with  nie.  I  had  actually  learned,  by  silent  observa- 
tion, to  form  good  conjectures  concerning  the  coming  weather, 
and  on  this  head,  to  teach  wisdom  to  those  who  were  imper- 
fect, especially  among  those  who  had  not  been  obliged,  like 
me,  to  watch  earnestly,  that  what  was  so  necessary  to  the 
family  support  should  not  be  spoiled  by  the  weather  before 
it  was  housed. 

"  Many  a  time,  even  in  tender  youth,  I  have  watched  the 
heavens^with  anxiety,  examined  the  different  appearances  of 
the  morning  and  evening  sun,  the  phases  of  the  moon,  the 
scintillation  of  the  stars,  the  course  and  colour  of  the  clouds, 
the  flight  of  the  crovv  and  swallow,  the  gambols  of  the  colt, 
the  fluttering  of  the  ducks,  and  the  loud  screams  of  the 
seamew,  not  forgetting  the  hue  and  croaking  of  the  frogs. 
From  the  little  knowledge  I  had  derived  from  close  observa- 
tion, I  often  ventured  to  direct  our  agricultural  operations  in 
reference  to  the  coming  days,  and  was  seldom  much  mistaken 
in  my  reckoning. 

"  About  twenty  years  ago,  a  table  purporting  to  be  the 
work  of  the  late  Dr.  Herschel,  was  variously  published,  pro- 
fessing to  perform  prognostics  of  the  weather,  by  the  times 
of  change,  full,  and  quarters  of  the  moon.  I  have  carefully 
consulted  this  table  for  years,  and  was  amazed  at  his  general 
accuracy  :  for  though  long,  as  you  have  seen,  engaged  in  the 
study  of  the  weather,  I  never  thought  that  any  rules  could  be 
devised,  liable  to  so  few  exceptions.  I  have  made  a  little  al- 
teration in  the  arrangements,  illustrated  it  with  further  ob- 
servations, and  have  sent  it  to  you  that  you  may  insert  it,  as 
it  has  hitherto  been  confined  generally  to  a  few  almanacs." 

13 


146 


TABLE    AND    OBSERVATIONS. 


A  TABLE 

For  telling  the  Weather  through  all  the  Lunations  of  each  Year,  for  ever. 

THIS  table  and  the  accompanying  remarks  are  the  result  of  many  years' 
actual  observation  ;  the  whole  being  constructed  on  a  due  consideration  of 
the  attraction  of  the  sun  and  moon,  in  their  several  positions  respecting 
the  earth,  and  will,  by  simple  inspection,  show  the  observer  what  kind  of 
weather  will  most  probably  follow  the  entrance  of  the  moon  into  any  of  its 
quarters,  and  that  so  near  the  truth  as  to  be  seldom  or  never  found  to  fail. 


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147 
INTRODUCTION 

TO 

THE    MONTHLY    CALENDAR 


"  THE  object  of  this  Calendar  is  to  assist  the  memory  oi 
the  gardener,  and  to  show  him,  at  one  glance,  that  he  may 
find  employment  in  some  of  the  departments  of  gardening 
in  every  month  of  the  year.  The  figures  refer  to  the  pages 
in  which  farther  directions  may  be  found,  relative  to  the 
operations  adverted  to. 

In  page  30  it  has  been  shown,  that  the  directions  accom- 
panying our  Catalogue  may  be  applied  to  all  the  climates  of 
the  United  States,  by  a  minute  observance  of  the  difference 
of  temperature. 

It  may  be  here  observed,  that  the  soil  is  susceptible  of  cul- 
tivation three  months  earlier  in  the  remotest  South,  than  in 
the  coldest  part  of  our  Northern  territory;  the  Calendar, 
therefore,  for  March,  maybe  applied  to  the  middle  of  Janu- 
ary in  the  warmest  climates,  and  to  the  middle  of  April  in 
the  coldest ;  some  exceptions  to  this  rule  must,  however,  be 
taken  in  the  Southern  States  after  the  three  spring  months, 
for  the  following  reasons  : 

1.  As  warm  weather  at  the  South  is  of  longer  continuance 
than  in  the  North,  plantations  of  those  species  of  vegetables 
denominated  tender  in  the  table,  page  26,  may  be  made  in 
the  open  garden  from  March  to  August. 

2.  Extreme  heat  being  detrimental  to  the  cultivation  of 
many  half-hardy  vegetables,  such  as  Broccoli,  Cauliflower, 
Cabbage,  Celery,  Lettuce,  Radish,  Turnips,  &c.,  these  can 
only  be  cultivated  in  perfection  in  spring  and  autumn,  the 
latter  crops,  therefore,  should  not  be  planted  till  August  or 
September.     [See  note  to  article  Broccoli,  page  49 ;  also  52, 
72,  and  104.] 


148  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

3.  Many  of  the  half-hardy  class,  as  also  those  designated 
hardy  in  our  table,  may  be  cultivated  throughout  the  winter 
months,  by  forwarding  such  as  are  required  for  early  spring 
use,  after  the  summer  crops  are  taken  off.  [See  table,  expli- 
cation, &c.,  page  26.  to  29  ;  also  page  115. 

In  the  Eastern,  Western,  and  Middle  States,  the  annexed 
Calendar  will  answer  in  the  order  it  stands,  by  applying  the 
directions  to  the  beginning  of  the  first  spring  month  in  the 
warmest  climates,  and  to  the  latter  end  in  the  coldest  cli- 
mates, bearing  in  mind  that  where  summer  is  short,  the  main 
crops  must  follow  the  early  in  quick  succession,  with  a  view 
to  their  maturity  before  winter. 


JANUARY. 

"PROGNOSTICS  foretoken  most  truly  some  things, 
Of  summers,  and  autumns,  and  winters,  and  springs  ; 
By  them  from  the  past  we  may  all  ascertain 
The  future,  respecting  the  winds  and  the  rain." 

IT  is  customary,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  with  all  prudent 
men,  to  look  around  them,  and  endeavour  to  ascertain  the 
results  of  their  industry  throughout  the  past  year,  in  order  to 
make  improved  arrangements  for  the  future.  The  mere 
gardener,  having  no  complicated  accounts  to  adjust,  may 
occupy  his  time  to  valuable  purposes.  If  he  be  not  a  book- 
reader,  he  should  be  a  book-keeper,  (see  page  14,)  and  he 
should  frequently  take  a  survey  of  his  former  practises  and 
those  of  his  acquaintances,  with  a  view  to  improve  on  every 
thing  he  has  done,  or  seen  done.  If  he  consults  writers  on 
Horticulture,  he  should  do  as  the  author  has  endeavoured  to 
do  in  preparing  this  little  work  for  the  press ;  not  adopt  the 
mere  theory  of  a  subject,  nor  indulge  in  speculative  ideas, 
nor  even  tread  in  the  steps  of  others,  but  endeavour  to  erect 
his  edifice  of  knowledge  upon  a  good  settled  foundation.  In 
all  his  pursuits,  whether  he  attempts  to  follow  the  example 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  149 

of  practical  and  exemplary  men,  hear  lectures,  or  consult 
authors  on  the  subject,  he  should  do  as  every  sensible  man 
does  at  his  daily  meals,  take  that  which  suits  him  best,  and 
leave  the  residue  for  others.  If  this  little  work  should  be 
considered  worth  an  annual  perusal,  he  may  read  the  Gene- 
ral Remarks,  in  this  month,  (January,)  and  make  a  memo- 
randum of  such  things  as  may  be  obtained  in  moments  of 
leisure,  in  preference  to  putting  it  off  till  it  is  wanted.  I 
shall  endeavour  to  make  my  Calendar  serve  as  an  index  to 
the  book,  and  in  pursuit  of  my  object,  shall  begin  at  the 
General  Remarks,  page  13,  which  suggest,  that  if  a  man  has 
a  garden  to  form,  he  will  require  fencing  materials.  If  these 
should  be  already  at  hand,  every  gardener  should  provide 
manures,  ingredients  for  the  destruction  of  insects,  drilling 
machines,  and  other  tools ;  poles  or  rods  for  the  support  of 
Peas,  Beans,  or  other  climbing  plants  he  may  intend  to  cul- 
tivate ;  and  if  he  intends  to  use  hot-beds,  or  forcing-frames, 
he  should  make  arrangements  to  get  compost  and  heating 
materials,  in  time  for  the  work  to  be  performed  in  the  next 
month.  If  he  depends  on  this  book  for  information,  he  may 
read  the  General  Remarks,  from  page  13  to  30 ;  and  also 
from  page  112  to  122,  on  Forcing  Vegetables. 


FEBRUARY. 

"A  cold,  sour  autumn,  they  sternly  maintain, 
A  long,  severe  winter  will  bring  in  its  train  ; 
If  summer  and  autumn  be  both  dry  and  warm, 
Calm  opens  the  winter,  it  doses  in  storm." 

ALTHOUGH  stern  winter,  with  its  ice-bound  chains,  exerts 
its  influence  over  the  soil,  the  gardener  may  find  employment 
preparatory  to  commencing  his  operations  of  ploughing  and 
planting,  as  the  year  progresses.  Perhaps  the  most  import- 
ant business  at  this  season  is  to  collect  plenty  of  manure ; 
next  to  this,  the  gardener,  who  intends  to  raise  early  plants 

13* 


150  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

for  forcing  or  otherwise,  should  see  that  his  hot-bed  frames 
are  in  good  repair  and  ready  for  use ;  he  should  also  repair 
his  sashes,  and  make  straw  mats  with  which  to  cover  them. 
In  preparing  dung  or  other  heating  materials  for  hot-beds  or 
forcing-pits,  let  it  be  kept  secure  from,  heavy  falls  of  snow  or 
rain,  and  frequently  turned  over  preparatory  to  its  being 
made  into  a  bed.  With  a  view  to  give  all  attention  to  cul- 
ture as  the  season  advances,  the  gardener  should  look  over 
his  hardy  fruit  trees  and  hardy  vines,  and  commence  pruning 
them,  by  cutting  off  all  dead  and  superfluous  branches ;  he 
may  also  clean  trees  from  moss  and  canker,  and  search  for 
the  nests  of  insects,  with  a  view  to  destroy  them  while  in  a 
torpid  state,  to  prevent  their  spreading.  If  he  has  trellises, 
or  any  implement  of  husbandry  out  of  repair,  he  should  em- 
brace the  most  favourable  opportunities  of  putting  them  in 
good  condition,  and  of  repairing  his  fences,  &c. 

Previous  to  making  hot-beds,  select  a  situation  that  is  well 
protected  by  a  close  fence  or  wall,  and  not  in  any  way  con- 
nected with  any  building  calculated  to.  harbour  rats,  mice, 
moles,  &c.,  which  are  very  apt  to  take  up  their  abode  in 
warm  duug,  to  the  great  injury,  and  sometimes  the  destruc- 
tion, of  the  beds.  It  is  necessary  that  the  foundation  for  the 
beds  be  dryly  situated,  and  not  liable  to  be  inundated  with 
water  from  melted  snow,  &c.  When  all  is  prepared  as  di- 
rected in  pages  112  and  113,  begin  to  sow  Cabbage,  Egg- 
plant, Lettuce,  and  Tomato  seed,  112  ;  force  Asparagus,  117  ; 
Kidney  Beans,  119;  Cucumbers,  121;  plant  Peas,  132; 
Potatoes,  133;  sow  Radish  seed,  134.  In  cold-beds,  well 
protected,  plant  Broad  Beans,  119;  sow  Cabbage  seed,  54. 

After  the  seed  is  sown,  the  beds  will  require  constant 
attention ;  cover  them  up  well  in  cold  nights,  and  give  air  at 
all  opportunities,  taking  care  to  regulate  the  heat  in  the  beds, 
as  directed  under  the  different  heads,  from  page  112  to  138. 
If  the  heat  be  excessive,  it  must  be  decreased  as  directed  in 
page  116  ;  and  if  it  should  become  necessary  to  let  off  steam 
in  cold  weather,  care  must  be  taken  to  cover  the  aoertures 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  151 

sufficiently  to  keep  out  frosty  air.  Give  air  at  all  opportu- 
nities to  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  and  such  other  plants 
as  may  be  in  frames,  of  last  year's  sowing. 


MARCH. 

"  IF  the  sun  appear  dim,  surrounded  with  haze, 
And  his  disk  ill-defined,  and  faded  his  rays ; 
If  white  at  his  setting,  of  power  if  shorn, 
The  signs  are  all  certain,  there'll  soon  be  a  storm." 

THIS  month  affords  considerable  employment  to  an  indus- 
trious gardener.  Manure  may  be  drawn  on  the  ground  and 
distributed  in  heaps,  ready  to  spread,  page  24  ;  and  the  hot- 
beds and  forcing-frames  will  require  constant  attention. 
Cover  them  up  warm  in  cold  nights,  and  give  additional  air 
as  the  season  progresses,  to  prevent  the  plants  growing  weak, 
taking  care  to  regulate  the  heat  as  directed  for  the  different 
kinds  of  vegetables.  If  any  additional  frames  are  to  be  put 
down  this  month,  either  for  forcing  or  forwarding  vegetables, 
they  should  be  attended  to  in  time,  as  directed. 

In  order  to  afford  time  for  cultivating  the  soil  as  the 
weather  moderates,  the  gardener  should  proceed  with  his 
business  of  pruning  and  cleaning  fruit  trees,  shrubs,  &c.,  at 
all  opportunities ;  and  if  any  removal  be  necessary,  or  fresh 
trees,  shrubs,  vines,  &c.;  are  required,  these  things  should  be 
obtained  arid  planted  this  month,  if  possible.  Begin  the 
work  of  the  kitchen  garden  as  soon  as  the  earth  can  be 
brought  into  good  condition,  and  transplant  hardy  Lettuce 
plants,  73  ;  dress  Artichoke  beds,  33  ;  Asparagus,  37  ;  Rhu- 
barb, 91 ;  Sea-Kale,  95 ;  and  prepare  to  make  new  planta- 
tions of  these  vegetables.  Plant  Broad  Beans,  39  ;  Beet 
seed,  44;  Rape,  47;  plant  Cauliflower  plants  under  hand- 
glasses, 51  and  120;  sow  Cabbage  seed,  55  and  112;  Car- 
rot, 59  ;  Celery,  60  ;  plant  Chives,  66  ;  Cucumber,  in  frames, 
121;  sow  Egg-plant  seed,  66;  plant  Horse-radish,  69;  Leek, 


152  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

71  ;  Lettuce,  72  ;  plant  Melon  seed  in  hot-beds,  132 ;  sow 
Onion,  78 ;  Parsley,  SO ;  Parsnip,  81 ;  Pepper,  82 ;  plant 
Peas,  83 ;  Potatoes,  in  frames,  133 ;  sow  Radish  seed,  88  and 
134;  plant  Rocambole,  89 ;  Rhubarb,  90;  Sea-Kale,  95 ;  Skir- 
ret,  97;  sow  Spinach  seed,  99;  Tomato,  101  and  112;  Turnip 
seed,  104;  prepare  to  make  Hop  plantations,  139;  sow  Herb 
seed,  106  to  108.  Plant  esculents  for  seed,  beginning  with 
the  hardiest  kinds ;  raise  up  and  plant  Cabbage  stumps,  &c., 
to  produce  greens  early  for  the  table.  In  the  course  of  this 
month,  every  thing  should  be  forwarded  relative  to  the  cul- 
tivation and  preparation  of  the  ground,  by  levelling  such  as 
may  have  lain  in  ridges  through  the  winter,  and  by  manuring 
and  digging  the  soil  generally,  preparatory  to  sowing  and 
planting  it  early  in  next  month. 

In  the  event  of  unfavourable  weather  in  March,  the  plant- 
ing of  some  of  the  articles  above  enumerated  may  be  de- 
layed until  the  early  part  of*  April ;  but  it  should  be  borne 
in  mind  that  if  the  hardiest  kinds  can  be  planted  early,  more 
time  will  be  afforded  to  other  important  business,  as  the  sea- 
son progresses. 


APRIL. 

"  The  state  of  the  wind  augurs  rain,  as  they  say, 
When  restless  in  changes,  now  this,  now  that  way, 
Or  hollow,  comes  whistling  plaintively  by, 
The  rain  it  betokens  is  probably  nigh." 

THIS  is  certainly  the  most  important  month  in  the  year 
for  gardening  operations.  Finish  as  early  as  possible  the 
planting  of  esculents  for  seed,  and  see  that  all  plants  of  the 
same  genus  are  remote  from  each  other,  or  they  will  adul 
terate.  All  the  soil  of  a  garden  should  be  dug  gr  ploughed 
this  month  if  possible,  and  some  of  the  early  crops  sown 
last  month  will  require  hoeing  and  weeding. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  to  have  good  sound  seed,  as 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  153 

this  is  a  matter  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  for  want  of 
which,  many  are  disappointed  in  their  principal  crops  when 
too  late  to  sow  again.  It  is  also  a  material  consideration  to 
have  the  best  varieties  both  of  seed  and  plants  of  their  re- 
spective kinds.  See  page  25. 

If  not  done  last  month,  make  plantations  of  Artichokes, 
31;  Asparagus,  35 ;  Beans,  Vicia  faba,  39  ;  towards  the  end 
of  the  month,  plant  Beans,  Ptiaseolus,  41  and  42  ;  Beet  seed, 
44 ;  SOAV  late  kinds  of  Broccoli  seed,  48 ;  not  Cape  Broccoli 
until  May;  seed  of  Cabbage  for  summer  use,  55  ;  Cardoon, 
58  ;  Carrot,  59  ;  Celery,  60  ;  sow  Cress  seed,  64  ;  plant  Cu- 
cumber in  frames,  124  ;  sow  Endive,  68  ;  plant  Horse  Radish, 
69;  Indian  Corn,  70;  Jerusalem  Artichokes,  70;  sow  Leek 
seed,  71 ;  Lettuce  seed,  72 ;  plant  Melon  in  hot-beds,  132 ; 
sow  Mustard  seed,  76 ;  plant  Nasturtium,  76 ;  sow  Onion 
seed,  78 ;  Parsley,  80 ;  Parsnip,  81  ;  plant  Peas,  83 ;  Pota- 
toes, 85 ;  Sweet  Potatoes,  86 ;  sow  Radish  seed,  88 ;  plant 
Rocambole,  89  ;  Rhubarb,  90  ;  Salsify,  92  ;  Scorzonera,  93  ; 
Sea  Kale,  94  ;  sow  Skirret,  97  ;  Spinach,  99  ;  Tomato,  101, 
112,  and  136;  Turnip  seed,  104;  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage 
in  varieties,  56 ;  make  Hop  plantations,  139.  Sow  the 
seed  of  Angelica,  Anise,  Basil,  Burnet,  Boreage,  Caraway, 
Chervil,  Clary,  Coriander,  Dill,  Fennel,  Pot  Mangold,  Sweet 
Marjoram,  Patience,  Dock,  Sorrel,  Summer  Savory,  Small- 
age,  Thyme,  Bene,  Boneset,  Catnep,  Celandine,  Saffron,  and 
such  other  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs  as  may 
be  required.  Also  separate  and  transplant  all  kinds  of  Pe- 
rennial Herb  roots,  such  as  Mint,  Pennyroyal,  Sage,  Winter 
Savory,  Tarragon,  and  Medicinal  Herbs  in  general,  as  de- 
scribed page  106  to  108.  If  not  done  last  month,  attend  to 
the  spring  dressing  of  Artichoke  beds,  33 ;  Asparagus,  37 ; 
Rhubarb,  91 ;  Sea  Kale,  95. 

Besides  the  work  of  sowing  and  planting  the  various  kinds 
of  seed  above  enumerated,  all  the  strongest  plants  of  Cab- 
bage, Cauliflower,  and  Lettuce,  must  be  taken  from  the  hot- 
beds and  frames,  and  transplanted  into  the  regular  beds  in 


I 

154  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

the  open  garden.  Attend  to  such  other  business  in  this  de- 
partment as  may  have  been  left  undone  last  month,  and  see 
that  the  garden  be  kept  neat  and  free  from  weeds. 


"  Much  dew  on  the  grass  portends,  as  all  say, 
That  day  which  succeeds  will  be  a  clear  day ; 
But  when  no  dew  moistens  the  grass  on  the  plain, 
Kind  Heaven  requites  it  by  sending  it  rain." 

As  the  warm  weather  progresses,  the  gardener  should  be 
on  the  alert,  in  order  to  conquer  the  various  kinds  of  insects. 
Burn  damp  litter,  stubble,  leaves,  weeds,  &c.,  near  fruit  trees, 
and  sow  ashes  over  the  ground.  Attend  to  plantations  of 
Cabbages,  Cauliflower,  &c. ;  hoe  them  frequently,  and  draw 
earth  to  their  stems ;  look  out  for  and  destroy  grub  worms, 
caterpillars,  and  other  insects,  18  to  21 ;  thin  out  the  early 
plantings  of  Beets-,  Carrots,  Parsnips,  Salsify,  &c.,  and  de- 
stroy weeds,  to  prevent  their  seeding  the  ground.  Plant 
an.d  sow  such  kinds  of  seed  as  were  omitted  last  month  ;  the 
sowing  of  Celery,  Leek,  Onion,  Parsley,  Parsnip,  Salsify 
seed,  &c.,  should  be  attended  to  without  farther  delay. 
Transplant  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Tomato,  Egg-plants,  &c.,  from 
the  hot-beds  and  warm  borders.  Plant  Beans,  41  and  42 ; 
Beet,  44 ;  Borecole,  46  ;  Brussels  Sprout  seed,  47 ;  Cape 
Broccoli,  49 ;  Cauliflower,  53 ;  Cabbage,  55  and  56 ;  Car- 
rot, N59 ;  Cress,  64 ;  plant  Cucumber,  65 ;  sow  Endive, 
68;  plant  Indian  Corn,  70;  Melon,  74;  Water  Melon,  75; 
sow  Mustard  seed,  76 ;  plant  Nasturtium,  76 ;  Okra,  77 ; 
Pepper,  82 ;  Peas,  83 ;  Potatoes,  85 ;  Potatoes,  Sweet,  86  ; 
Pumpkins,  87  ;  sow  Radish  seed,  88  ;  Squash,  100  ;~  Tomato, 
101 ;  early  in  this  month  finish  sowing  all  kinds  of  Aromatic, 
Pot,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  106  to  108.  Some  of  the 
old  hot-beds  may  be  spawned  for  Mushrooms,  but  it  is  best 
to  form  new  ones.  Uncover  productive  beds  once  a  week, 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  155 

and  gather  the  produce ;  clear  them  of  weeds  and  wet  litter, 
and  put  a  little  dry  hay  or  straw  next  the  bed.  Prepare 
fresh  spawn,  &c.,  125  to  130. 

Watering  will  now  frequently  be  required  for  newly  planted 
vegetables,  both  at  the  time  of  transplanting,  and  occasion- 
ally afterward,  in  dry  weather,  until  the  roots  are  established 
in  the  soil.  Likewise  seed-beds  recently  sown,  till  the  young 
plants  become  vigorous. 

Weeding  must  be  very  diligently  attended  to,  both  by  hand 
and  hoe  ;  for  as  weeds  grow  luxuriantly,  it  is  necessary  to 
eradicate  them  before  .they  spread  too  far,  as,  by  neglect, 
they  will  riot  only  impede  the  growth,  but  eventually  smother 
the  plants. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  month,  top  such  of  the  English 
Broad  Beans  as  may  be  in  blossom,  to  promote  the  swelling 
of  the  pods,  as  well  as  their  early  maturity.  [See  page  40.] 

Those  who  have  young  families  should  not  fail  sowing 
some  Bene-plant  seed,  as  the  plant,  by  being  steeped  in  a 
glass  of  water,  produces  a  glutinous  liquid,  which  is  an  effi- 
cacious remedy  for  the  summer  complaint.  It  may  be  sown 
in  drills  and  managed  the  same  as  salad  gr  Parsley.  [See 
Herbs,  107.] 


JUNE. 

"  The  sky  dress'd  in  placid  soft  redness  at  night 
Portends  the  next  day  will  be  cloudless  and  bright ; 
A  fierce  angry  redness  that  shoots  up  at  morn, 
And  tinges  the  clouds,  is  a  token  of  storm." 

THE  principal  sowing  ^seasons  for  general  crops  may  be 
considered  as  past,  but  there  are  many  kinds  of  seed  which 
may  be  sown  this  month  ;  and  the  gardener  should  ascertain 
the  success  of  his  former  plantings,  in  order  to  make  up  any 
deficiencies  from  failures,  before  the  season  be  too  far  ad- 
vanced. By  this  time  some  of  the  early  crops  will  be  cleared 
off,  and  such  ground  as  was  manured  for  the  early  crops  of 


156  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

Lettuce,  Radishes,  Spinach,  &c.,  will  be  excellent  for  late 
Beets  and  Carrots.  Hoe  and  thin  out  all  standing  crops, 
and  clean  vacant  ground,  to  prevent  weeds  from  running  to 
seed.  If  the  ground  be  dry,  frequent  hoeing  will  be  bene- 
ficial. Use  means  to  destroy  insects ;  read  pages  18  to  21 
for  information  on  this  subject.  Plant  Kidney  Beans,  41  and 
42  ;  Beet  seed,  44.  If  the  seedling  plants  of  Broccoli,  Cau- 
liflower, Cabbage,  &c.,  failed  last  month,  sow  again  early 
this  month.  Water  the  beds  frequently,  and  sow  tobacco 
dust,  soot,  ashes,  &c.,  or  use  the  liquid  recommended,  page 
19.  Transplant  Cabbage,  Celery,  &c.,  for  summer  use ; 
transplant  Cardoons,  58  ;  sow  Carrot  seed  in  drills,  59  ;  plant 
Cucumber  seed  in  hills,  65 ;  sow  Endive,  68  ;  plant  Indian 
Corn,  70 ;  transplant  Leeks,  71 ;  Okra  seed  may  be  planted 
early  in  this  month,  77 ;  plant  Peas,  if  dry  weather,  soak 
them  five  or  six  hours  in  water,  83 ;  plant  Potatoes,  85 ; 
Potatoes,  Sweet,  86  ;  Pumpkin  seed,  87  ;  sow  summer  Radish 
seed,  89;  plant  Squash,  100. 

As  the  herbs  come  into  flower,  they  should  be  cut  on  a 
dry  day,  arid  spread  in  a  shady  place  to  dry  for  winter  use, 
108.  Conduct  Hop  vines  to  the  poles,  and  when  they  have 
reached  the  top,  nip  off  the  tops  to  strengthen  the  stems,  140. 

Hoe  between  the  Artichokes,  and  in  order  to  have  the 
main  top  fruit  attain  its  full  size,  detach  the  small  suckers, 
or  lateral  heads.  [See  page  34.] 

Earlv  Cauliflowers,  which  will  now  be  progressing  toward 
maturity,  must  be  watered  in  dry  weather ;  and  as  the  heads 
begin  to  exhibit  themselves,  break  down  some  of  the  large 
leaves  over  them  to  protect  them  from  the  rays  of  the  ?un, 
and  from  rain,  52. 

Keep  Asparagus  clear  of  weeds,  and  also  Onions ;  and 
give  those  beds  that  are  to  stand  for  ripening,  a  final  thin- 
ning, as  suggested  in  page  78. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  157 

JULY. 

"  When  flowers  toward  evening  their  blossoms  expand, 
And  bask  in  the  sunbeams,  there's  no  rain  at  hand  ; 
But  when  they  close  up  as  if  conscious  of  fear, 
They  augur  its  coming — it  no  doubt  is  near." 

THIS  is  a  very  important  month  for  transplanting  Cabbage, 
Cardoons,  Celery,  Endive,  Leeks,  Pepper  plants,  &c.,  for 
full  autumn  crops.  Prepare  trenches  for  the  Celery  plants 
beforehand,  in  order  that  they  may  be  ready  to  catch  the 
rain.  Leeks  may  be  transplanted  in  dry  weather,  by  first 
steeping  the  roots  in  mud,  and  Cabbage  plants  too,  if  there 
be  the  least  moisture  in  the  ground  when  it  is  freshly  turned 
over.  As  grub-worms  are  apt  to  devour  Cabbage  plants  early 
in  this  month,  those  persons  anxious  to  transplant  any  quantity, 
may  dip  the  roots  in  fish  oil,  and  then  dry  them  in  plaster  of 
Paris,  which  will  not  only  annoy  the  worms,  but  prove  bene- 
ficial as  manures,  19  and  20.  If  transplanting  in  general  be 
delayed  to  the  middle  of  the  month,  grub-worms  will  be 
harmless,  55. 

If  Beets  and  Carrots  have  failed,  the  seed  may  produce 
good  roots  by  autumn,  if  planted  early  in  the  month ;  plant 
Beans,  41 ;  Cabbage  seed  may  be  sown  now  for  Collards, 
57  ;  plant  Cucumber  seed  for  picklers,  6G ;  sow  Endive 
seed,  and  transplant  the  former  sowing,  68 ;  if  Peas  be 
planted  now,  they  should  be  soaked  in  soft  water  five  or  six 
hours,  83  ;  Potatoes  may  be  planted  early  in  this  month,  85  ; 
and  Pumpkins,  if  not  done  last  month,  87.  Sow  summer 
Radish  seed  in  drills,  89 ;  sow  Turnip-rooted  Cabbage  seed, 
in  varieties,  56  ;  this  is  a  good  season  for  Ruta  Baga,  or  Rus- 
sian Turnip,  105 ;  and  the  common  kinds  of  Turnip  seed 
may  be  sown  toward  the  end  of  this  month,  104.  Attend 
to  plantations  of  Hops,  140  ;  whatever  herbs  may  be  required 
for  winter  use,  should  be  cut  off  and  dried  as  they  come  into 
flower  ;  Burnet,  Chervil,  Fennel,  Mint,  Parsley,  Sweet  Mar 
joram,  Tarragon,  Thyme,  Winter  and  Summer  Savory,  may 
all  be  cut  this  month,  106  to  108. 

14 


158  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

The  business  of  sowing  and  transplanting  will  be  more 
successful  if  done  in  moist  or  showery  weather,  or  on  the 
approach  of  rain,  or  immediately  after,  especially  for  preca- 
rious seed,  and  young  seedling  plants.  Attend  to  the  Mush- 
room beds,  and  give  light  waterings,  or  expose  them  to  warm 
moderate  showers  occasionally,  130. 


AUGUST. 

"  When  clouds  slow  dissolve,  as  if  turned  into  air, 
And  vanish  from  sight,  the  next  day  will  be  fair; 
But  when,  in  succession,  they  darker  appear, 
With  watery  aspect,  then  know  rain  is  near." 

THE  planting  season  being  nearly  over,  now  is  the  time  to 
hoe  around  the  plants  and  clear  the  ground  of  weeds  and 
stubble.  Dig  or  plough  vacant  ground  ready  for  fall  Tur- 
nips, Spinach,  Shallots,  Fetticus,  &c.  As  the  ground  for  the 
latter  crops  may  require  manure,  it  will  be  greatly  improved 
if  ploughed  before  the  manure  is  drawn  on,  which  should  be 
afterward  spread  and  ploughed  under. 

Plant  Beans  for  picklers,  41 ;  sow  Cabbage  seed  for  Col- 
lards,  57  ;  earth  up  Cardoons,  58  ;  do.  Celery,  62  ;  sow  Corn 
Salad,  or  Fetticus  seed,  63 ;  the  early  kinds  of  Cucumber 
may  produce  picklers  if  planted  early  in  this  month,  66 ; 
transplant  Endive,  and  prepare  to  blanch  the  early  plantings, 
68 ;  sow  Lettuce  for  autumn  use,  73  and  125 ;  sow  Onion 
seed  to  stand  the  winter,  78 ;  Peas  may  be  planted  thus  late, 
if  desired,  83 ;  sow  summer  Radish  seed,  89 ;  prepare  for 
planting  Shallots  by  the  end  of  this  month,  97;  sow  Turnip 
seed  for  full  crops,  104 ;  attend  to  such  herbs  as  were  not 
gathered  last  month  ;  cut  off  and  dry  Sage,  and  other  late 
herbs,  106  to  108.  Hops  will  be  ripe  this  month  ;  choose  a 
tdry  season  for  gathering  them,  and  attend  to  them  as  direct- 
ed, page  140  ;  this  is  a  good  season  for  preparing  to  make 
Mushroom  beds,  in  close  sheds,  cellars,  or  pits ;  if  the  mate 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  159 

rials  be  gathered  this  month,  indigenous  spawn  may  be  col- 
lected next,  but  those  that  can  procure  spawn  may  make 
the  beds  at  any  time,  or  they  may  pursue  Mr.  Nichol's  plan, 
128. 

Artichokes  will  be  in  perfection  this  month,  and  should  be 
cut  for  use  as  soon  as  the  scales  of  the  head  expand,  and 
before  they  open  in  the  heart  for  flowering ;  and  as  you  cut 
them,  break  down  the  stems  to  promote  the  growth  of  root 
offsets,  34.  In  dry  weather  hoe  and  plough  between  such 
vegetables  as  may  have  been  planted  in  rows,  which  will  not 
only  destroy  weeds,  but  encourage  the  growth  of  the  plants. 
Frequent  hoeing  in  dry  weather  will  be  more  beneficial  than 
the  watering-pot. 

Early  sown  Onions,  being  now  of  mature  growth,  and  full 
bulbed,  should  be  pulled  up  in  dry  weather  and  exposed  to 
the  sun  to  ripen ;  frequently  turning  them,  that  they  may 
harden  equally  for  keeping ;  then  clear  them  from  the  gross 
part  of  the  stalks,  and  loose  outer  skins,  earth,  &c.,  and  re- 
move them  to  a  place  of  shelter,  78. 

Continue  to  gather  seed  of  all  kinds  as  they  ripen,  and 
prepare  vacant  ground  for  late  crops  ;  such  as  Spinach,  Shal 
lot,  Onion,  Fetticus,  &c.,  98. 


SEPTEMBER. 

"  Light  vapours  o'er  valleys  and  rivers  at  night, 
Foretoken    the  next  day  salubrious  and  bright ; 
Especially  when  they  at  morning  appear 
To  rise  up  the  hill  sides,  and  vanish  in  air." 

ALTHOUGH  the  sowing  season  is  nearly  over,  the  crops  on 
the  ground  require  attention  constantly.  Endive  may  still 
be  transplanted  for  winter  use.  Hoe  Cabbage  and  other 
vegetables,  and  attend  to  the  earthing  of  Celery  as  it  pro- 
gresses in  growth.  Tie  up  Endive  plants  for  blanching,  68  ; 
sow  Rape,  47;  Cauliflower  seed,  51;  Cabbage,  54;  Corn 


160  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

Salad,  or  Fetticus,  63 ;  Cress,  Rape,  &c.,  every  ten  days,  for 
a  salad,  64;  sow  Mustard,  for  the  same  purpose,  76;  sow 
Lettuce,  73  and  125  ;  Onion,  to  stand  the  winter,  78  ;  Radish, 
for  fall  use,  89 ;  plant  Shallots,  97  ;  sow  Spinach  seed  every 
week  or  ten  days,  98 ;  Turnips  will  sometimes  come  to  ma- 
turity if  the  seed  be  sown  the  early  part  of  this  month,  and 
those  sown  last  month  will  need  hoeing  as  they  progress  in 
growth,  104. 

Continue  to  gather,  dry,  and  pack  Hops  as  they  ripen,  140  ; 
also  all  Aromatic,  Sweet,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  108 ;  this  is 
a  good  season  to  make  Mushroom  beds  in  sheltered  situa- 
tions ;  they  may  be  spawned  with  indigenous  or  artificial 
spawn,  as  may  be  most  convenient.  [For  directions  to  pre- 
serve spawn,  &c.,  see  pages  126  and  127.] 

Toward  the  end  of  this  month,  or  early  in  the  next,  is  a 
good  season  to  increase  all  kinds  of  herbaceous  plants,  by 
parting  the  roots,  but  it  should  be  done  in  cloudy  or  wet 
weather ;  at  the  same  time,  such  herbs  as  were  raised  from 
seed  sown  in  the  spring,  may  be  transplanted  into  separate 
beds  or  borders,  106  to  108. 

In  this  month  must  be  finished  all  the  principal  sowings 
and  plantings  necessary  this  year ;  on  this  account  such 
ground  as  is  intended  for  principal  crops  next  year,  should 
be  well  manured  previous  to  planting  it.  [See  Spinach,  98.] 

Cucumber  vines  should  be  looked  over,  and  the  fruit 
gathered  as  it  becomes  fit  for  pickling,  as  a  very  slight  frost 
will  destroy  Cucumbers,  66. 


MONTHLY   CALENDAR.  161 

OCTOBER. 

"  A  warm,  open  winter  dotb  often  succeed 
A  hot  and  dry  surnmi-r,  by  ull  'tis  agreed ; 
A  hard,  frosty  winter  its  rigour  retains, 
And  holds  gentle  spring  in  its  cold  icy  chains." 

THE  principal  winter  crops  being  planted,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  prepare  for  maturing  and  gathering  some  of  the  fall 
crops.  Weed  out  Fetticus,  Spinach,  &c.  Hoe  and  earth 
up  Celery  ;  do  it  in  dry  weather,  arid  not  even  while  the 
dew  is  on  it,  62.  Toward  the  end  of  the  month,  frames 
must  be  provided  for  the  protection  of  Parsley,  Lettuce,  and 
of  such  Cabbage  and  Cauliflower  plants  as  were  raised  from 
seed  sown  last  inontb.  Begin  to  dig  and  secure  all  kinds 
of  vegetables  soon  enough  to  get  the  whole  placed  away  be- 
fore the  end  of  the  next  month.  Take  up  Potatoes  and  bury 
them  in  pits,  so  as  to  secure  them  from  wet  arid  frost,  or  put 
them  in  a  warm  cellar.  Proceed  to  take  up  other  roots ; 
begin  with  the  most  tender  kinds,  or  do  that  which  is  re- 
quired to  be  done  in  dry  weather,  while  it  is  so.  Collect 
Pumpkins  and  winter  Squashes,  and  expose  them  to  the 
wind  and  air  on  a  dry  bench,  or  ledge,  before  they  are  stowed 
away.  Dig  up  Beets,  and  secure  them  in  pits,  or  pack  them 
in  sand  in  a  cellar. 

Aromatic,  Pot,  and  Medicinal  Herbs,  should  now  have  a 
thorough  cleaning  and  dressing ;  by  destroying  all  weeds, 
cutting  away  all  decayed  stalks,  digging  between  such  plants 
as  will  admit  of  it,  and  spreading  earth  over  others,  as  sug- 
gested, page  108. 

Tie  up  full-grown  plants  of  Endive  every  week  in  dry 
weather,  for  blanching  in  succession,  as  required,  68. 

Horse-radish  may  now  be  dug  for  use  as  wanted,  by 
trenching  along  each  row  to  the  bottom  of  the  upright  roots, 
leaving  the  old  stools  for  future  production,  69.  Jerusalem 
Artichokes  may  be  dug  up  for  use,  or  to  preserve  for  winter 
consumption,  71. 

14* 


162  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

NOVEMBER. 

"When  nuts  are  but  few,  and  they  small  and  hollow, 
A  cold  and  wet  harvest,  there's  no  doubt,  will  follow  ; 
But  when  they  are  plenty,  and  ^ood,  'tis  agreed, 
A  rich,  golden  harvest  is  sure  to  succeed." 

ENDEAVOUR  to  avoid  having  your  garden  products  frozen 
fast  in  the  ground.  Begin  in  good  earnest  to  secure  them ; 
in  fine  weather  dig  up  Beets,  Carrots,  and  as  many  Skirret, 
Salsify,  and  other  hardy  roots  as  will  be  required  for  winter 
use,  and  pack  them  close  together  in  pits  ;  give  them  a  coat 
of  straw,  and  afterward  heap  on  as  much  earth  as  will  keep 
out  the  frost,  or  stow  them  in  a  cellar.  Toward  the  end  of 
the  month,  Turnips  may  be  secured  in  the  same  way.  Take 
up  Celery  in  dry  weather,  and  strike  it  in  close  together 
against  a  ridge,  which  should  be  previously  formed  in  a 
straight  line,  about  a  foot  above  the  level  of  the  surface ; 
throw  up  earth  from  the  trench  sufficient  to  cover  them  about 
an  inch,  and  then  plant  row  after  row  as  close  and  upright 
as  it  can  be  placed,  with  just  sufficient  earth  between  every 
row  to  keep  the  roots  and  stalks  from  touching  each  other. 
The  whole  being  covered  up  with  earth,  some  long  dung  or 
litter  may  be  thrown  over  it,  sufficient  to  keep  out  the  frost  j 
and  by  heaping  a  good  layer  of  manure  against  the  last  row 
of  Celery,  it  may  be  taken  out  at  any  time  in  the  winter  for 
use.  Some  erect  a  board  shed  over  to  protect  it  from  wet  j 
a  small  quantity  may  be  kept  in  a  cellar.  Cabbage  must  be 
taken  up  and  laid  in  rows  against  a  ridge,  so  as  to  form  a 
square,  compact,  close-growing  bed,  the  roots  and  stems 
being  buried  up  to  the  lower  leaves  of  the  Cabbages.  The 
beds  may  afterward  be  covered  with  straw,  or  a  temporary 
shed  may  be  erected  over  them.  Cabbage  will  keep  for 
some  months  in  a  cellar,  if  connected  with  their  roots.  For 
the  management  of  Broccoli  and  Cauliflower,  see  articles, 
pages  48,  51,  and  120.  Borecole,  Brussels  Sprouts,  and  Col- 
lards,  may  be  taken  up  and  stowed  away  like  Cabbages. 


MONTHLY    CALENDAR.  163 

Cardoons  may  be  laid  in  like  Celery,  or  preserved  in  sand 
in  a  cellar.  Leeks  may  be  taken  up  and  laid  in  rows  close 
together  against  a  ridge,  and  covered  up  as  far  as  the  lower 
leaves.  If  the  last  row  be  protected  from  frost  by  a  coat  of 
stable  dung,  they  can  be  taken  out  when  required  for  use. 
Corn  Salad,  Spinach,  and  Lettuce,  rnay  be  protected  by  a 
covering  of  straw,  salt  hay,  or  cedar  brush.  For  the  man- 
agement of  Artichoke  beds,  see  page  32 ;  Asparagus,  37 ; 
Rhubarb  91 ;  Sea-Kale,  95. 

Dig  up  roots  of  Horse-radish  in  the  manner  recommended 
last  month,  to  preserve  in  sand  or  pits,  for  use  when  the 
ground  is  frozen  or  ice-bound.  Do  the  like  by  Jerusalem 
Artichokes,  which  are  now  in  their  full  perfection.  At  the 
same  time  take  up  as  many  Parsnips  and  other  hardy  roots, 
as  will  be  required  for  use  the  next  three  months.  Spread 
short  horse  dung  over  the  Onions  that  were  sown  in  August 
and  September,  which  will  protect  them  through  the  winter. 


DECEMBER. 

"  A  wet,  sultry  summer,  prognostics  affirm, 
A  boist'rous  autumn  will  bring  in  its  turn ; 
A  cold,  sour  autumn  and  summer  portend 
A  winter  severe  from  beginning  to  end. " 

IP  all  was  not  done  as  directed  last  month,  there  is  no 
time  to  be  lost.  Every  thing  that  needs  protection  should 
now  be  attended  to,  and  if  the  weather  continues  open,  some 
of  the  ground  may  be  ploughed  or  trenched,  to  receive  the 
benefit  of  winter  frosts.  Collect  all  your  Pea-sticks  and 
Bean-poles  together,  and  place  them  under  cover  to  prevent 
their  rotting.  Turn  over  compost  heaps,  and  provide  manure 
for  another  year. 

Those  who  are  desirous  of  having  Cucumbers  or  Melons 
early  in  the  ensuing  spring,  and  have  not  the  convenience 


164  MONTHLY    CALENDAR. 

for  forcing  tliern  in  the  ordinary  way,  may  dig  a  few  grass 
sods  or  turfs,  before  it  freezes  hard,  and  stow  them  away  out 
of  the  reach  of  frost,  through  the  winter.  These  being 
placed  on  the  top  of  a  hot-bed,  in  March,  or  early  in  April, 
with  the  grass  downward,  and  Cucumber  or  Melon  seed 
planted  in  the  earthy  part  thereof,  early  plants  may  be  pro- 
duced, which  can  be  removed  with  the  turfs  without  dis- 
turbing their  growth,  and  cultivated  either  on  the  ridge  sys- 
tem, as  rec6mmended  in  page  132,  or  in  the  open  ground, 
provided  they  can  be  kept  growing  in  frames  until  settled 
warm  weather.  This  is  also  an  excellent  plan  in  early 
forcing,  as  it  saves  trouble  as  well  as  risk  in  transplanting 
seedling  plants  into  the  fruiting  beds. 

If  not  done  last  month,  dress  your  Artichoke  beds,  and 
cover  them  as  recommended  in  page  32.  Defend  Mushroom 
beds  with  dry  straw,  or  long  stable  litter,  and  cover  such  as 
may  be  exposed,  with  mats,  as  security  against  cold.  In  all 
moderate  weather  during  the  winter,  give  air  to  Cabbage, 
Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  and  such  other  plants  as  may  be  in 
frames,  being  careful  to  cover  them  every  night  with  mats, 
boards,  litter,  &c.,  as  necessity  may  require. 

As  the  year  is  drawing  to  a  close,  I  would  solicit  the  gar- 
dener to  review  the  results  of  his  practice  throughout  the 
past  season,  that  he  may  be  able  to  judge  how  to  act  for  the 
future. 

In  sketching  a  plan  of  his  garden  for  the  next  year,  he 
ought  to  make  provision  for  a  full  supply  of  such  vegetables  as 
are  best  calculated  to  sell,  and  yield  a  fair  profit;  with  this 
object  in  view,  I  would  suggest  that  he  take  a  retrospective 
view  of  his  previous  management,  and  also  of  the  directions 
given  in  the  preceding  chapter  relative  to  the  preparation  of 
the  soil,  by  ploughing,  trenching,  pulverizing,  manuring,  &c., 
as  circumstances  may  require ;  bearing  in  mind,  that  although 
clayey  soils  may  be  benefited  by  fall  ridging,  light  sandy 
ground  should  lay  flat  through  the  winter. 


165 


TO  THE  PEOPLE 

OF    THE 

UNITED    STATES    OF    AMERICA. 

FELLOW-CITIZENS  : 

AN  application  having  been  made  to  your  Representatives  in  Congress  to 
vote  a  sum  equal  to  five  cents  from  each  individual  in  the  United  States, 
OH  ABOUT  A  MILLION  DOLLARS  OF  YOUR  RESOURCES,  to  the  promotion  of  an 
improved  system  of  "  Terra-culture"  as  described  in  Senate,  Document 
No.  23,  of  the  third  session  of  the  25th  Congress,  I  hereby  direct  your 
attention  to  a  few  extracts  taken  from  the  applicant's  preamble  ;  copies  of 
which  were  forwarded  to  each  member  of  the  26th  Congress,  in  session, 
November  30,  1839,  by  Russell  Comstock. 

From  the  Poughkeepsie  Eagle,  of  January  25, 1840, 

PRESERVATION  OF  FRUIT   TREES,  PLANTS,  &C. 

GREAT  DISCOVERY. 

"  To  the  Hon.  Perry  Smith,  Chairman  of  the  United  States  Senate  Com" 
mittee  on  Agriculture  of  the  25th  Congress.  "  With  the  consent  and  by 
the  advice  on  the  23d  inst,  of  the  chairman  of  the  United  States  Senate 
Committee  on  Agriculture  of  the  25th  Congress,  I  forward  to  each  member 
of  the  26th  Congress  the  accompanying;  document  dated  the  14th  inst;  the 
object  is  to  show  you  some  of  the  proof  that  a  discovery  of  vital  importance 
to  civilized  man  has  been  made,  which  in  several  letters  from  different 
members  of  the  present  and  last  Congress  is  valued  at  HUNDREDS  OF  MIL- 
LIONS OF  DAYS'  LABOUR,  AND  WORTH  MORE  THAN  ALL  THE  DISCOVE- 
RIES OF  THE  PRESENT  AGE  COMBINED THE  APPLICATION  OF  STEAM 

NOT  EXCEPTED. 

"For  what  purpose  would  all  the  owners  of  the  public  lands  more  freely 
or  gratefully  consent  to  give  one  hundreth  part  of  those  lands,  or  the  pro- 
ceeds thereof?  Would  they  not  be  grateful  to  those  members  of  Congress, 
who  assist  in  giving  the  owners  of  the  public  domain  the  desired  informa- 
tion, and  reverence  them  as  benefactors  of  human  kind. 

"For  the  honour  of  the  Republic,  for  the  honour  of  the  age,  and  for  the 
interest  and  comfort  of  the  living,  as  well  as  the  unborn,  let  not  that  disco- 
very which  may  cau&e  two  seeds  to  ripen  where  one  now  does,  which  pre- 
vents the  premature  death  of  all  cultivated  trees,  which  has  been  searched 
for  in  vain  during  the  history  of  all  civilized  society,  die  with  the  discoverer 
for  want  of  the  action  of  the  United  States  Congress." 

Our  patriotic  discoverer  "claims  the  following  five  discoveries  as  his, 
besides  other  discoveries  which  are  stated  in  his  memorial  to  the  25tli  Con- 


16G 

1st  "  That  various  diseases,  universally  supposed  to  be  destructive  to 
plants  are  only  symptoms  that  a  particular  error  in  cultivation  has  been 
committed ;  and  that  many  other  injurious  effects  have  been  produced  by 
the  same  error,  which  are  attributed  to  other  causes. 

2d.  "  That  the  error  is  UNIVERSALLY  COMMITTED,  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent,  throughout  the  States,  and  that  he  has  seen  an  excess  of  it  where- 
ever  he  has  been,  which  is  in  the  Atlantic  States,  from  Georgia  to  Massa- 
chusetts, inclusive. 

3d.  "  That  the  PEACH  and  NECTARINK  are  more  easily  injured  by  the 
error  than  most  other  Fruit  trees,  and  the  cause  of  their  being  more  easily 
injured  by  it ;  and  that  this  error  causes  them  to  be  barren,  or  short-lived. 

4th.  "  That  the  application  of  two  known  laws  in  nature  demonstrate 
the  reality  of  his  discovery  and  its  application  to  the  whole  vegetable  king- 
dom )  and  that  by  them,  his  discovery,  (if  publicly  known,)  must  be  per- 
petuated, and  his  practice  more  easily  introduced  :  and  that  by  these  two 
laws  the  occasional  success  of  common  remedies  is  explained. 

5th.  "  That  the  said  error  is  the  obstacle  which  has  discouraged  experi- 
menters, and  lamentably  retarded  improvements  in  the  science  and  practice 
of  agriculture;  and  that  he  has  discovered  facts  and  made  himself  acquainted 
with  knowledge  sufficient  to  reduce  them  to  practice." 

We  are  farther  informed,  "that  it  is  neither  climate,  nor  soil,  nor  insects, 
nor  worms,  that  are  the  cause  of  many  of  the  disastrous  effects  that  have 
been  attributed  to  them,  but  that  those  effects  are  produced  by  error  in  cul- 
tivation, which  discuses  the  smallest  plant  or  largest  tree." 

Our  modest  and  patriotic  f>:lluu'-cilizen  admits,  in  the  course  of  his 
preamble,  "that  the  practical  part  of  his  discovery  is  so  EXTREMELY  SIMPLE 
and  economical,  that  it  costs  no  more  to  prevent  the  diseases  thun  it  does 
to  produce  them  ;  and  that  it  is  so  different  from  the  established  theories 
and  habits  of  the  people,  THAT  UNLESS  A  LARGE  AMOUNT  UK  APPRO- 
PRIATKD,  many  will  be  unwilling  to  try  it,  and  therefore  the  PUBLIC  GOOD 
seems  to  require  that  a  large  amount  should  be  appropriated."  Me  more- 
over asserts,  that  "there  are  two  known  laws  in  nature,  by  which  the  reality 
of  his  discovery,  and  its  application  to  the  whole  vegetable  kingdom,  are 
demonstrable  in  leas  than  thirty  words." 

That  this  invaluable  secret,  whatever  it  may  be,  is  not  strictly  speaking 
anew  discovery,  is  demonstrable  by  numerous  living  witnesses  which  have 
inhabited  the  fields  of  the  old  world  for  over  a  thousand  years";  and  our 
discoverer  freely  admits,  and  in  very  emphatic  language,  that  there  are 
thousands  of  trees  in  our  own  country  on  which,  what  he  terms  "the  com- 
mon error  "  has  never  been  committed  ;  and  also,  that  several  of  the  fifteen 
gentlemen  to  whom  he  communicated  his  secret,  "confidently  for  ever"  have 
some  such  trees  on  their  own  domains. 

Hjear  him — "The  Senator  from  Missouri,  (Mr.  Linn,)  said,  that  the  most 
flourishing  and  healthy  Peach  tree  in  his  possession  had  never  had  what  I 
call  the  common  error  in  cultivation  committed  upon  it." 

"  The  Senator  from  Pennsylvania,  (Mr.  McKean.)  said,  that  he  had  long 
supposed  that  what  I  call  the  common  error,  was  an  error,  but  that  he  had 
no  idea  of  such  extensive  evils  arising  from  it." 

"The  Senator  from  Maryland,  (Mr,  Spence,)  said,  that  in  his  district  it 
was  a  universal  custom  to  commit  what  I  call  the  common  error  in  cultiva- 
tion, on  the  fruit  trees,  and  that  it  was  common  to  have  no  Plums  perfect 


167 

and  free  from  worms,  excepting  on  a  few  of  his,  on  which  the  error 
had  not  been  committed  for  twenty  years,  if  ever  ;  and  those  few  (four) 
continued  to  bear  abundantly  annually  ;  that  he  had  no  recollection  of  ever 
seeing  an  imperfect  wormy  Plum  on  either  of  these  four  trees,  but  that  he 
had  nevt-r  supposed  that  to  have  been  the  cau§e  of  their  perfection." 

The  Senator  from  South  Carolina,  (Mr.  Calhoun.)  to  whom  I  am  indebted 
for  pointing  out  one  symptom  of  the  error,  and  for  a  valuable  suggestion  in 
the  culture  of  plants,  said,  "  while  examining  the  defective  trees  around  the 
Capitol,  that  the  principle  when  exhibited  was  very  plain  and  'simple,  that 
it  was  philosophical,  and  in  his  opinion  it  could  not  be  neglected  without 
injury  to  the  health  and  growth  of  trees  and  plants,  and  deserving  of  pub- 
lic patronage."  , 

"The  Vice  President  of  the  United  States,  (Mr.  Johnson,)  said,  that  my 
discovery  was  perfectly  consistent  with  the  laws  of  nature ;  and  (when 
observing  a  few  trees  near  the  Capitol,  which  had  been  injured  by  the  error, 
and  were  recovering,)  farther  remarked,  that  my  theory  was  essentially  cor- 
rect and  obvious  to  the  most  superficial  observer." 

"The  member  from  New-York.  (Mr.  Jackson,)  said,  that  he  had  reared 
an  orchard  on  which  he  had  carefully  avoided  an  excess  of  what  I  call  the 
common  error,  and  that  it  had  been  admired  as  the  most  flourishing  and 
fruitful  orchard  in  the  neighbourhood  ;  and  that  he  had  recently  seen  a  field 
of  Indian  corn,  which  yielded  more  than  one  hundred  bushels  of  shelled 
grain  to  the  acre,  in  which  an  excess  of  the  error  had  been  avoided,  while 
the  success  was  attributed  to  quite  a  different  cause." 

From  the  preceding  extracts,  it  is  evident  that  this  inestimable  treasure 
lays  near  the  surface ;  and  from  the  disclosure  having  been  communicated 
to  rational  and  intelligent  minds,  it  is  preposterous  to  expect  that  those 
gentleman  can,  in  the  pursuit  of  their  rural  avocations,  act  directly  con- 
trary to  knowledge  and  sound  judgment ;  they  must,  therefore  necessarily 
and  unavoidably  communicate  the  secret  by  their  example,  which  will 
eventually  disseminate  in  proportion  as  mankind  take  an  interest  in  the 
merits  of  the  alleged  discovery. 

But  lest  the  full  benefits  of  this  invaluable  remedy  should  be  withheld 
from  the  community  for  want  of  the  action  of  the  United  States  Congress, 
I  have  submitted  an  exposition  of  my  views  of  the  particular  points 
adverted  to  in  the  preamble,  which  may  be  found  under  the  heads,  Necta- 
rine, Peach,  and  Plum,  pages  91,  98  and  124  of  the  third  part  of  the  present 
edition  of  the  Ypung  Gardener's  Assistant ;  and  I  would  furthermore 
remind  my  readers  that  the  directions  heretofore  given  in  this  and  previous 
editions  of  the  work  are  in  strict  accordance  with  the  same  doctrine ;  and 
that  although  the  error  alluded  to  is  admitted  to  have  been  very  generally 
committed,  I  am  not  aware  that  any  writer  has  ever  taught  or  encouraged 
the  error,  either  direct  or  indirect ;  I  confess,  however,  that  I  have  been 
induced  to  expatiate  on  this  malpractice  in  horticulture  from  the  subject 
having  elicited  the  grave  consideration  of  enlightened  legislators  of  these 
United  States. 

And  lest  these  my  voluntary  disclosures  should  prove  to  have  no  bearing 
on  the  alleged  discovery,  I  would  prepare  the  public  mind  for  its  reception 
by  an  exhortation  to  TEMPERANCE  AND  uronr/RATiosr,  as  the  only  safe 
course  that  can  be  considered  applicable  to  the  cultivation  of  all  the  varied 
species  of  plants,  which  comprise  "the  whole  vegetable  kingdom."  In 


168 

articles  page  2G  of  the  first  part,  and  pages  16,  28  and  97  of  the  second 
part,  I  have  shown  that  the  various  species  of  plants  which  occupy  our 
greenhouses,  gardens,  and  fields,  require  each  their  peculiar  aliment — they 
having  been  collected  from  all  the  diversified  regions,  climates,  and  soils 
through  cash's  remotest  bounds  ;  they  consequently  comprise  natives  of 
mountains  and  rocks,  as  well  as  of  plains,  valleys,  and  water  courses.  The 
most  essential  aliment  for  natives  of  warm  climates  and  dry  soils  being 
HEAT,  artificial  means  are  used  in  cool  seasons,  and  unpropitious  climates 
to  produce  it.  Natives  of  temperate  climates  require  salubrious  AIR,  hence 
they  are  cultivated  to  the  greatest  perfection  in  our  Northern  States  in 
spring  and  autumn  ;  and  in  our  Southern  States  in  the  winter;  .seepage 
147  of  the  first  part;  and  natives  of  humid  climates,  as  also  amphibious 
plants  in  general,  require  a  more  than  ordinary  share  of  MOISTURE,  and 
grow  best  in  wet  soil;  but  these  THREE  ELEMENTS  collectively  constitute 
the  food  of  plants  in  general,  and  should  be  judiciously  imparted  to  the 
various  species,  in  due  proportions,  according  to  circumstances.  See  pages 
49,  64  and  67  of  the  first  part,  for  a  more  precise  view  of  this  subject.  I 
have  also  shown  that  the  roots  of  various  species  of  plants  require  each 
their  peculiar  aliment,  which  is  not  to  be  found  in  all  descriptions  of  land; 
this  is  demonstrated  by  roots  of  trees  being  frequently  discovered  spreading 
beyond  their  ordinary  bounds  in  quest  of  salutary  food. 

Although  it  has  been  admitted  that  excessive  deep  planting  of  trees  and 
plants  is  injurious,  ami  in  many  cases  fatal  to  their  very  existence,  it  does 
not  follow  that  all  annuais  and  biennials  are  injured  by  the  same  means ; 
on  the  contrary,  the  earthing  up  of  particular  species  of  plants  in  a  late 
stage  of  growth  is  calculated  to  promote  early  maturity,  which  constitutes 
the  most  essential  art  in  gardening  for  the  market ;  because  the  earliest 
crops  are  always  the  most  profitable.  It  is  moreover  a  necessary  practice 
in  climates  where  the  seasons  for  gardening  are  short — as  without  such 
practice,  many  kinds  of  vegetables  could  not  possibly  be  matured  in.  due 
season  for  gathering  before  winter. 

I  would  here  take  the  opportunity  of  proving  this  last  position,  by 
reminding  the  reader  that  the  effects  of  deep  planting,  the  Peach  tree  for 
instance,  is  discoverable  soon  after  the  error  is  committed,  by  its  fruit  ripen- 
ing prematurely,  and  this  is  often  the  case  for  a  year  or  two  prior  to  its 
final  decease,  and  should  operate  as  a  salutary  lesson  against  planting 
perennial  plants  and  trees  too  deep. 

In  conclusion  of  this  article,  which  is  intended  as  an  appendage  to  my 
works  on  gardening,  I  would  urge  gardeners  and  cultivators  to  consult  the 
operations  of  nature  in  all  their  rural  pursuits ;  and  with  a  view  to  aid 
them,  I  subjoin  the  following  rules,  which  are  farther  illustrated  under  the 
different  heads : 

1.  In  transplanting  fruit   trees,  let  the  collar,  or  that  part  from   which 
emanate  the  main  roots,  be  near  the  surface.     A  medium  sized  tree  may  be 
planted  an  inch  deeper  than  it  was  in  the   nursery  bed ;  and  the  largest 
should  not  exceed  two  or  three  inches.     See  pages  93,  101  and  125  of  the 
third  part  of  the  present  edition  of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant. 

2.  In  the  cultivation  of  such  plants  as  are  transplanted,  or  grown  in  hills 
or  clusters,  as  Indian  Corn,  fee...  keep  the  earth  loose  but  level  around  them 
ill  their  early  stages  of  growth,  by   frequent  hoeing,  ploughing,  or  culti- 


169 

\ating ;  and  to  promote  early   maturity,   throw  a  moderate  portion  of 
earth  about  the  roots  and  stems  at  the  last  or  final  dressing. 

3.  In  the  sowing  of  seed,  remember  that  IN  UNITY  THERE  is  STRENGTH, 
and  that  from  the  gerrninative  parts  of  a  seed  being  weak  and  diminutive, 
it  cannot  be  expected  to  perforate  through  the  soil,  solitary  and  alone.     To 
insure  a  fair  chance  plant  your  seed  moderately  thick,  and  thin  out  the 
surplus  plants  while  young.     In  planting  seed  in  drills,  which  is  the  most 
eligible  plan,  the  size  of  the  seed  and  strength  of  its  germ  should  be  consi- 
dered ;  large  seed,  producing  vigorous  roots,  require  deeper  planting  than 
diminutive  seed,  producing  delicate  roots  and  slender  stalks. 

4.  In  the  choice  of  compost  for  exotic  or  greenhouse  plants,  imitate  the 
native  soil  of  each  peculiar  species  as  nearly  as  possible,  by  a  judicious 
mixture  of  maiden  earth,  loam,  sand,  leaf,  swamp,  and  rock  mould,  decom- 
posed manures,  and   such  other  composts  as  aie  recommended  under  the 
different  heads.     Remember,  that  although  strong  manure  is  essential  to 
the  growth  of  some  plants,  it  is  poisonous  to  others.     PURSUE,  THEN,  A 
MEDIUM  COURSE.     From  your  soil  not  being  too  stiff  or  too  light,  too  rich 
or  too  poor,  too  cool  or  too  warm,  too  close  or  too  porous,  if  not  positively 
salutary  and  congenial  to  all,  it  must  render  the  situation  of  each  endura- 
ble.    I  again  repeat,  that  temperance  in  the  use  of  aliment,  is  as  essential 
to  the  welfare  of  the  vegetable  family  as  it  is  to  the  health,  happiness,  and 
longevity  of  mankind. 

T.  BRIDGEMAN. 
New-York,  March  4,  1840. 

j£T  Since  this  address  has  been  in  press,  I  have  seen  another  article  in 
the  Poughkeepsie  Eagle,  dated  February  29,  1840,  wherein  our  modest 
and  patriotic  discoverer  gratuitously  pronounces  his  knowledge  as  superior 
to  that  of  "  all  Botanical  and  Agricultural  known  writers  /"  As  I  have 
anticipated  the  merits  of  this  second  valuable  discovery  in  my  books,  I  have 
nothing  more  to  say  than  to  remind  the  reader  that  this  uncalled  for  attack 
on  the  brethren  of  my  fraternity,  fully  justifies  not  merely  the  publication, 
but  the  most  general  circulation  of  these  my  voluntary  disclosures. 


RETROSPECTIVE   VIEW. 

THIS  summary  view  of  estimates  is  annexed,  in  order  to  aid  the  Seeds- 
man and  Gardener  in  making  out  a  bill  of  seed  for  the  purpose  of  planting 
any  given  quantity  of  ground,  under  the  regulations  suggested  in  the 
Vegetable  Department  of  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred  for  a  more  concise  view  of  the  subject. 

Page. 

Artichoke;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  600  plants,  -         -         31 

Asparagus;  one  ounce  will  be  sufficient  for  1000  plants         -         -         35 
Beans,  English  Dwarf;  one  quart  of  seed  will  be  required  for  every 

sixty  feet  of  row,  ........         40 

Beans,  Kidney  Dwarf ;  one  quart  of  seed  will  plant  from  350  to  400 

hills,  or  from  230  to  260  feet  of  row, 42 


170  RETROSPECTIVE    VIEW. 

Beans  Pole,  or  Running  ;  one  quart  of  Lima,  or  large  running  Beans 

will  plant  about  300  hills,  or  250  feet  of  row,    -         -         -         -  43 

Beet ;  one  ounce  may  be  allotted  for  every  perch,  or  pole,  45 

Borecole,  or  Kale  ,  an  ounce  will  produce  4000  plants,  46 

Broccoli ;  one  ounce  is  sufficient  for  4000  plants,     -         -         -         -  50 

Cauliflower  ;  an  ounce  of  this  seed  will  produce  4000  plants,    .       -  53 

Cabbage  ;  one  ounce  will  produce  4000  plants,      ....  55 

Cardoon  Artichoke  ;  an  ounce  will  produce  600  plants,          .-         •  53 

Carrot ;  half  an  ounce  may  be  allotted  for  every  pole,  59 

Celery  ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  10,000  plants,  ...  60 
Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  sow  about  two  poles 
of  ground,     --........63 

Cucumber ;  one  ounce  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  200  hills,  65 

Egg  Plant ;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  4000  plants,  67 

Endive,  or  Succory  ;  an  ounce  will  yield  5000  plants,  68 

Leek;  one  ounce  of  seed  may  be  allotted  for  3000  plants,       -         -  71 

Lettuce;  an  ounce  will  produce,  say  10,000  plants,  73 

Melon  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  from  120  to  150  hills,        -  74 

Melon,  Water ;  an  ounce  will  plant  from  40  to  50  hills,  75 

Onion  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  may  be  allotted  for  every  pole,  78 

Parsley  ;  two  ounces  may  be  allowed  for  three  perches,  80 

Parsnip  ;'two  ounces  may  be  allotted  for  three  perches,           -         -  81 

Pepper;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  3000  plants,  82 

Peas;  one  quart  will  plant  from  150  to  200  feet  of  row,  84 

Potatoes  ;  from  twelve  to  sixteen  bushels  may  be  allotted  for  an  acre,  85 
Potatoes,  Sweet;  half  a  peck  of  seed,  properly  managed,  will  produce 

15  bushels, 86 

Pumpkin  ;  one  quart  of  field  Pumpkin  will  plant  from   500  to  600 

hills,  and  one  ounce  of  the  finest  kinds  will  plant  from  50  to  80  hills,  87 
Radish ;  four  ounces  will  do  for  every  three  perches,  if  sown  broad- 
cast, and  about  half  the  quantity  if  sown  in  drills,  89 
Salsify  ;  two  ounces  of  this  seed  will  plant  three  perches,  93 
Shallots;  four  bushels  of  bulbs  will  plant  forty  poles,  9S 
Spinach  ;  if  cultivated  in  drills,  four  ounces  will  plant  five  perches  of 

land.     If  broadcast,  it  wiil  require  double  the  quantity,  99 
Squash;  an  ounce  of  seed  will  plant  from  50  to  100  hills,  according 

to  sorts  and  size, --  100 

Tomato  ;  one  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  4000  plants,          -         -  101 

Turnip  ;  one  pound  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  an  acre  of  land,          -  105 

QUANTITY   OF  GRASS   SEED   SUITABLE  TO  THE  ACRE. 


Clover,  sown  alone,  -  -  12  pounds. 

Timothy, 1  peck. 

Herds  Grass, 1  bushel. 


Orchard  Grass,  -  -  -      2  bushels. 

Rye  Grass, 2  bushels. 

Lucerne, 8  pounds. 


For  a  pasture  for  grazing,  the  following  mixtures  of  seed  would  be  found 
excellent,  viz  :  6  pounds  of  clover^seed,  1  peck  of  herds  grass,  and  half  a 
bushel  of  Orchard  grass  seed — or  6  pounds  clover,  half  a  bushel  of  rye 
s?,  and  half  a  bushel  of  tall  meadow  oat  seed. 


171 


COMMENDATORY  NOTICES. 


"The  first  edition  of  "The  Young  Gardener's  Assistant"  has  been 
favourably  noticed  in  France  : — "  One  of  the  leading  articles  of  the  Annales 
de  £  Institute  Royal  Horticolc  de  Fromont,  is  a  long  notice  of  "  The  Young 
Gardener's  Assistant,"  by  Mr.  Thomas  Bridgeman,  of  this  city.  The 
editor,  Le  Chevalier  Soulange  Bodin,  speaks  of  the  little  work  in  very 
commendable  terms." — New  York  Farmer. 

Extract  of  a  review  of  this  work  in  the  Magazine  of  Horticulture,  Botany, 

&c.,  published  by  Hovey  &  Co.,  Boston : 

"The  work  is  written  in  plain  language^  easily  to  be  understood  by  the 
young  beginner  in  gardening,  who  will  find  it  a  great  help  ;  and  its  value, 
even  to  the  experienced  person,  is  by  no  means  of  an  ordinary  character. 
IT  is  ADAPTED  TO  OUR  CLIMATE,  and  unlike  compilations  from  English 
works,  the  novice  is  not  led  into  disappointment  by  following  the  rules 
there  laid  down,  as  he  generally  is.  when  following  the  advice  of  the  latter. 
We  repeat,  that  as  far  as  the  book  pretends,  IT  is  WORTH  ALL  OTHERS  op 

A  SIMILAR  CHARACTER  THAT  HAVE  EVER  BEEN  PUBLISHED  IN    THIS  COUN- 
TRY ;  and  its  cheapness  should  place  it  in  the  hands  of  all  new  beginners." 

"  No  work  ever  published  has  been  so  studiously  written  to  give  plain 
useful  information.  By  being  arranged  in  the  form  of  a  catalogue,  you 
can  turn  in  a  moment  to  any  name  you  desire,  where  the  time  of  sowing, 
depth,  soil,  after  treatment,  &c.  &c.,  is  clearly  defined.  The  Calendarial 
Index,  giving  a  summary  of  work  for  every  month,  is  itself  worth  the  whole 
price  of  the  book,  and  must  have  cost  the  author  much  research  ,and  labor- 
ious thought.  Mr.  Bridgeman  is  not  a  theorist,  but  is  in  the  daily  practice 
of  what  he  writes,  and  of  course  well  qualified  to  direct  all  beginners  in  the 
profitable  and  delightful  employment  of  cultivating  a  garden,  '  a  profession 
and  an  employment  for  which  no  man  is  too  higher  too  low.'  " — Genessec 
Farmer. 

"It  will,  we  are  persuaded,  be  found,  what  the  writer  intends  it  shall  be, 
'  generally  useful  to  such  as  may  wish  to  superintend,  or  take  the  manage- 
ment of  their  own  gardens.'  Mr.  Bridgeman  is  a  gardener  himself,  in  the 
Bowery  road,  and  his  directions  are  therefore  applicable  to  our  climate — an 
advantage  of  no  little  moment." — American. 

"Among  the  plants  for  the  cultivation  of  which  '  The  Young  Gardener's 
Assistant'  contains  directions,  are  a  number  of  culinary  vegetables  not 
generally  introduced  in  the  United  States.  The  introduction  and  success- 
ful cultivation  of  useful  foreign  vegetables  add  to  the  resources  of  our 
country.  We  recently  saw,  for  instance,  in  Mr.  Bridgeman's  garden,  seve- 
ral varieties  of  Broad  Deans,  Vicia  faba,  in  a  most  vigorous  and  thrifty 
growth.  They  occupied  a  clayey  spot  of  ground  that  was  not  suitable  so 
early  in  the  season  for  any  other  vegetable.  They  put  forth  a  beautiful 
blossom,  and  would  serve  as  an  ornament  for  the  flower  garden." — New 
York  Farmer. 


172  COMMENDATORY    NOTICES. 

"BRIDGEJIAN'S  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT. — The  fourth  edition  of  this 
useful  little  manual  is  published,  and  is  rendered  of  increased  value  by  the 
addition  of  several  matters  not  contained  in  either  of  the  former  editions. 
Among  these  is  a  short  and  convenient  calendar  to  assist  the  gardener's 
memory." — Evening  Post. 

"No  work  on  the  subject  of  Kitchen  Gardening  ever  published  in  this 
country  has  met  with  so  very  general  approbation  and  extensive  sale.  Mr. 
Bridgeman  is  well  known  as  one  of  our  best  gardeners,  and  writes  from  hw 
own  experience  " — Daily  Express. 

"That  work  which  teaches  us  how  to  create  and  to  improve  this  most 
innocent  and  useful  source  of  pleasure,  is  surely  worthy  of  applause  and 
patronage  •,  and  such  we  consider  'The  Young  Gardener's  Assistant.'  " — 
Miming  Herald. 

"  The  work  is  calculated  to  be  of  immense  service  to  those  engaged  in 
Agriculture,  '  far  from  the  busy  haunts  of  men,'  and  to  the  disciples  of 
Flora,  in  the  city.  Mr.  Bridgeman  is  a  practical  gardener  and  seedsman, 
and  has  lived  many  years  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic." — Old  Countryman. 
"  From  what  we  gather  from  the  tenor  of  Mr.  Bridgenwm's  book,  we 
should  suppose  that  he  paid  but  little  attention  to  the  mere  on  dits  or  die- 
turns  of  any,  but  that  he  pursued  that  course  which  his  judgment  pointed 
out ;  and  in  this  particular,  we  value  his  book — leading  the  young  gardener 
to  depend  more  on  his  own  judgment  than  on  the  rules  of  custom." 
American  Farmer. 

''All  those  who  are  desirous  of  a  work  on  the  subject  of  Gardening,  and 
one  which  will  convey  the  best  information  on  the  management  of  Hot- 
beds, Asparagus  beds,  best  mode  of  raising  all  sorts  of  Esculent  Vegetables, 
Pruning.  Grafting  and  Budding  Fruit  Trees,  Training  the  Vine,  Preserving 
the  Fruit  from  Mildew,  &c.,  should  procure  this.  No  work  on  the  subject 
ever  published  in  tin's  country  has  met  with  half  as  extensive  a  sale,  or 
decided  public  approbation,  as  this  valuable  compendium.  Mr.  Bridgeman 
fully  understands  the  subject  on  which  he  treats  The  very  rapid  sale  of 
the  ei^ht  former  edition*  is  quite  a  sufficient  recommendation." — G.  C. 
Thorburn,  in  the  Evening  Star. 

"  We  can  assure  gardeners  and  farmers  that  they  will  in  times  and  ways 
almost  without  number,  be  amply  compensated  by  purchasing  the  book. 
Mr.  Bridgeman  bestows  ure;»t  1  .bour  on  his  productions  of  the  pen,  not 
only  as  to  practical  matter  of  fa' t,  but  to  the  various  excellences  of  style 
particularly  to  clearness,  and  tho  avoiding  a  redundancy  of  words.  The 
amount  of  useful  information  in  the  book  constitutes  its  value;  and  all  this 
information  is  adapted  to  this  country,  and  its  climate  and  its  soil." — 
American  Gardener's  Magazine. 

"  From  the  cursory  examination  we  have  been  enabled  to  give  '  The 
Youni  Gardener's  Assistant,'  we  should  judge  that  it  embraces  a  greater 
amount  of  practical  information,  applicable  to  our  climate,  than  can  be 
found  in  any  similar  work.  The  list  of  fruit  trees  has  been  selected  from 
the  best  authorities,  both  foreign  and  American,  and  is  sufficiently  exten- 
sive for  any  cultivator  in  this  country." — Newark  Daily  Advertiser 


COMMENDATORY    NOTICES.  173 

"The  author  is  an  experienced  practical  gardener  and  seedsman,  and  his 
book  is  an  excellent  manual  and  guide  for  the  beginner,  whether  old  or 
young,  in  horticultural  pursuits." — Gazette. 

"  From  the  systematic  arrangement  of  the  parts,  under  appropriate  heads, 
and  the  plain  and  practical  nature  of  the  instructions,  it  must  be  an  invalua- 
ble manual  for  those  who  may  wish  to  superintend  the  management  of 
their  own  gardens. — Albany  Argus. 

Extract  of  a  letter  from  Alex'r  Walsh,  Esq.,  Lansinburg: 

Dear  Sir: — You  will  see  by  the  next  month's  New-York  Farmer,  if  you 
have  not  already  seen  by  the  Albany  papers,  that  several  copies  of  the 
Young  Gardener's  Assistant  have  been  given  as  premiums,  by  the  State 
Agricultural  Society.  Mr.  D.  B.  Slingerland  and  myself  were  on  the  com- 
mittee for  award  ing.  premiums,  and  thought  your  work  was  deserving 
encouragement ;  and  that  even  in  this  small  way  we  might  be  of  service  in 
bringing  it  before  the  public  as  worthy  of  being  given  as  premiums."* 

"Written  with  a  good  deal  of  practical  knowledge  *f  the  subject  on 
wliich  it  treats.  The  directions  given,  the  author  says,  are  the  result  of 
twenty  years'  experience,  and  we  dare  to  say.  that  though  submitted  in  an 
unpretending  form,  they  will  be  found  as  useful,  if  not  more  so,  than  thofce 
in  more  costly  and  expensive  works." — Courier  <5f  Enquirer. 

•'We  have  undoubted  authority  for  pronouncing  this  work  as  worth  all 
ott-ers  of  a  similar  character  that  have  ever  been  published  in  this  country, 
from  its  adaptation  to  all  the  climates  in  the  United  States." — N.  Y.  Sun. 

"  That  this  is  a  useful  work  is  evident  from  the  number  of  editions 
through  which  it  has  passed.  There  is  scarcely  any  employment  in  life 
more  pleasing  than  the  cultivation  of  a  Garden  with  Fruits  and  Flowers. 
Those  who  have  the  opportunity  to  indulge  themselves  in  this  gratification, 
we  have  no  doubt  will  derive  much  assistance  from  this  publication." — JV. 
Y.  Tribune. 

"  Every  one  that  cultivates  a  garden  should  possess  the  work,  as  it  is  a 
complete  dictionary  for  young  beginners  in  the  delightful  field  of  Horticul- 
ture."— Working  Man's  Advocate. 

"No  work  on  the  subject  ever  published  in  this  country  has  met  with 
half  as  extensive  a  sale  or  decided  approbation,  as  this  valuable  compen- 
dium. Mr.  Bridgeman  fully  understands,  from  practical  experience,  the 
subject  on  which  he  treats.  The  Caleiidarial  Index  arranges  the  work  for 
every  month,  and  refers  to  the  various  parts  of  the  book  how  to  proceed. 
This  of  itself  is  worth  the  price  of  the  whole  work,  and  cost  the  author 
immense  labour.  The  rapid  sale  of  the  former  editions,  together  with  the 
commendation  of  every  Agricultural  and  Horticultural  Journal  in  America, 
and  several  in  England,  is  quite  sufficient  recommendation.  The  present 
edition  both  explains  and  fully  makes  known  what  was  thought  to  be  a 
great  discovery  (as  great  as  steam)  on 'the  preservation  of  Fruit  Trees, 
Plants,  &c.,  and  which,  to  make  known  to  the  people  of  these  United 
States,  an  application  was  made  to  the  25th  Congress  to  vote  the  supposed 

*  The  American  Institute  has  also  awarded  several  copies  cf  this  work  as  premiums  for 
superior  specimens  of  garden  products 


174  COMMENDATORY    NOTICES. 

author  of  the  discovery  a  sum  equal  to  five  cents  from  each  individual  in  thn 
United  States — or  about  a  million  of  dollars.  Mr.  Bridgeman  has  clearly 
proved  this  discovery  from  his  long  observation  of  the  course  of  nature  and 
treatment  of  Trees  and  Plants,  and  which  only  occupies  some  four  or  fivo 
pages  of  the  work." — N.  Y.  Commercial,  by  G.  C.  Tlwrburn. 


•'  THE  FLORIST'S  GUIDE. — A  delightful  little  book,  which  we  advise  every 
body  to  purchase — at  least  every  body  that  has  the  least  liking  for  the 
pleasing  occupation  on  which  it  treats." — Courier  $•  Enquirer. 

"The  Florist's  Guide,"  like  its  companion,  "  The  Young  Gardener's  As- 
sistant," is  a  useful  work,  which  every  Gardener  and  Florist  may  consult 
to  advantage.  It  gives  minute  directions  concerning  plants  of  various  spe- 
cies; the  names  and  characters  of  each  being  alphabetically  arranged,  makes 
it  an  invaluable  manual  for  those  who  may  wish  to  superintend  the 
management  of  their  own  gardens." — Newark  Daily  Advertiser. 

"  This  is  one  of  the  best  works  on  the  subject  ever  published  in  any 
country  :  it  contains  Practical  Directions  for  the  Cultivation  of  Annual, 
Biennial,  and  Perennial  Flowering  Plants,  of  different  classes,  Herbaceous 
and  Shrubby,  Bulbous,  Fibrous,  and  Tuberous-rooted,  including  the  Double 
Dahlia,  Greenhouse  Plants  in  Rooms,  &c.  kc. 

"A  work  of  the  above  kind  has  been  long  wanted ;  hitherto,  it  required 
an  expenditure  of  some  three  or  four  dollars  to  get  any  kind  of  readable 
directions  for  small  gardens,  window  gardening,  plants  in  rooms,  &c., 
which,  when  procured,  were  so  full  of  botanical  foppery,  that  plain,  honest 
people,  after  wading  through  some  three  or  four  hundred  pa^es,  were  as 
wise  as  to  knowing  how  to  set  about  their  gardening,  as  when  they  com- 
menced their  book.  The  present  little  work  obviates  all  these  difficulties. 
The  author  is  well  known  as  one  of  our  practical  gardeners,  and  it  may  be 
truly  said  he  has  rendered  the  ladies  in  particular  (for  whom  the  work  was 
projected)  an  essential  service ;  the  directions  for  the  care  of  the  Camellia 
Japonica,  the  Double  Dahlia,  the  sowing  and  treatment  of  Annual 
Flower  Seed,  fee.,  are  alone  worth  double  the  price  of  the  book  ;  so  is  the 
Calendarial  Index,  which,  by  the  ifntiring  industry  of  Mr.  Bridgeman,  is 
made  to  include  in  some  half  dozen  pages,  more  valuable  information  than 
is  to  be  found  in  some  ponderous  octavos  on  the  same  subject." — G.  C- 
Thorburn,  from  the  N.  Y.  Commercial. 

"  The  style  is  free,  and  the  language  appropriate  ;  the  plan  is  judicious, 
and  the  contents  embrace  much  well  arranged  practical  information,  unen- 
cumbered with  disquisitions  foreign  to  the  object  of  the  work.     We  very 
cheerfully  recommend  it  to  our  readers  as  a  cheap  and  useful   book." 
Gardener's  Magazine. 


The  Florist's  Guide  has  also  been  very  favourably  noticed  by  the  editors 
of  many  other  very  respectable  periodicals,  as  a  work  eminently  calculated 
to  promote  a  love  for  the  cultivation  and  correct  management  of  flowers — 
the  study  of  which,  remarks  one  of  these  writers,  "  refines  the  taste,  and 
imparts  just  and  ennobling  views  of  the  wise  provisions  ofnaturo." 


175 


LINES 

SUGGESTED  BY  THE  AWARD  OF  A  GOLD  MEDAL  TO  THE  AUTHOR 
OF  '  THE  YOUNG  GARDENER'S  ASSISTANT/  AT  THE  FOURTEENTH 
ANNUAL  FAIR  OF  THE  AMERICAN  INSTITUTE,  1841,  FOR  ITS 
GREAT  PRACTICAL  UTILITY. 


BY  D.  MITCHELL. 


As  VALOR'S  meed,  and  Honor's  brightest  test, 

I'te  seen  a  MKDAL  on  a  Warrior's  breast ; 

But  to  my  mind  it  brought  sad  scenes  to  view — 

The  sweeping  carnage  of  red  Waterloo — 

Th    orphan's  tear — the  widow's  drooping  head, 

For  slaughter'd  heroes  on  false  glory's  bed — 

The  earth  made  desolate,  its  fruits  despoil'd, 

By  mad  Ambition,  fearless  and  unfoil'd ! 

Not  so  the  Token  thou  hast  gained  from  Peace, 

Thou  lov'st  to  see  fair  Nature's  wide  increase, 

And  the  "  Young  Gard'ner,"  in  thy  fertile  book, 

Finds  an  "  Assistant"  not  to  be  mistook  ! 

Thine  is  the  pleasing  art  to  cultivate, 

Fill  Plenty's  horn,  and  better  man's  estate ;. 

Thine  is  the  wish  the  Cotter's  life  to  mend, 

And  teach  him  that  a  garden  is  his  friend  : 

That  Virtue  smiles — sheds  blessings  on  his  head, 

And  makes  him  happy  in  his  humble  shed, 

Who  tends  his  "  little  patch  "  in  well  spent  hours, 

Amid  his  kitchen  treasures  and  his  flowers; 

That  Vice  ne'er  mars  a  lovely  scene  like  this — 

The  consummation  of  the  poor  man's  bliss  ! 

Health,  my  firm  friend,  long  life  and  health  to  thee. 

Health  to  the  scions  from  the  parent  tree ; 

Well  may  thy  trophy  be  a  source  of  pride. 

May  they  preserve  it,  whatsoe'r  betide : 

'Tis  a  memento  for  imparting  good, 

More  nobly  won  than  that  for  shedding  blood ! 


APPENDIX, 

• 
CONTAINING  REMARKS  ON  THE  ALLEGED  DISEASE  OF  THE  POTATO. 


As  I  have  not  in  the  article  Potato,  page  86,  attempted  to  give  its 
mstory,  I  would  here  inform  the  reader,  that  the  Potato  was  cultivated 
in  Britain,  by  Gerard,  the  English  Botanist,  in  1590,  and  was  soon  after- 
wards recommended  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  as  a  nutritious  vegetable ; 
but  although  first  discovered  on  this  continent,  it  spread  so  slowly,  that 
nearly  a  century  elapsed  before  this  excellent  root  had  become  a  regular 
dish  on  the  Farmer's  table  in  New  England.  The  following  account 
of  the  early  reception  is  too  good  to  be  lost.  It  is  recorded  in  the  N.  Y. 
Farmer  and  Mechanic  that  two  brothers,  named  Clarke,  settled  in  Con- 
necticut, early  in  the  18th  century,  and  purchased  a  farm  near  Chatham. 
"On  a  hill  which  still  bears  the  name  of  Clarke  Hill,  half  a  peck  of 
potatoes  were  planted,  and  after  the  balls  had  ripened  on  the  vines,  it 
was  proposed  to  gather  some  with  a  view  to  taste  the  wonderful  pro- 
duct; some  balls  were  accordingly  picked  and  boiled,  and  being  placed 
on  the  table,  were  approached  with  great  caution.  It  was  at  length 
concluded  that  an  old  negro  should  first  taste  of  this  rare  vegetable, 
whose  report  was  by  no  means  satisfactory;  others  also  tasted,  and  the 
dish  was  condemned  as  unworthy  their  table  and  attention ;  the  negro 
was  therefore  directed  to  go  and  destroy  the  vines ;  in  doing  so,  he 
pulled  up  some  potatoes  with  the  tops;  and,  amazed  at  the  sight,  soon 
elicited  the  discovery  that  the  real  fruit  was  to  be  looked  for  at  the  root 
end  of  the  plant." 

As  this  vegetable  is  now  considered  one  of  the  most  important  pro- 
ductions of  the  earth,  upwards  of  one  hundred  millions  of  bushels 
being  raised  in  the  United  States  in  a  single  year,  a  deficient  or  defec- 
tive crop  is  acknowledged  by  all  to  be  such  a  serious  calamity  as  to 
incite  the  most  diligent  enquiry  into  the  nature  and  cause  of  the  defect, 
or  deficiency. 

As  the  seasons  of  1843  and  '4  were  unfavorable  to  the  growth  and 
preservation  of  late  potatoes,  the  American  Institute  encouraged  an 
investigation  and  discussion  of  the  subject  amongst  the  members  of  the 


178  APPENDIX. 

Farmers'  Club ;  the  result  of  which  was  published  in  the  "  New- York 
Farmer  and  Mechanic,"  vol.  ii.,  November,  1844,  from  which  I  have 
selected  the  following  extracts : 

"  That  the  disease  may  proceed  from  some  chemical  action  in  the 
atmosphere,  or  from  peculiar  location,  as  high  or  low,  new  or  old 
land,  and  that  some  varieties  are  more  liable  to  disease  than  others," 
page  290. 

"  That  the  potato  disease  was  imported  from  Great  Britain  two  or 
three  years  ago ;  and  that  a  gentleman,  from  microscopic  examination, 
discovered  in  the  tubers  a  growth  of  fungus,  a  plant  analagous  to  the 
mushroom  family.  These  fungi  seeds  although  invisible  to  the  naked 
eye  are  readily  carried  about  by  the  winds,  and  will  penetrate  wherever 
air  will.  Bsing  once  introduced  from  Europe,  their  extensive  dissemi- 
nation here  is  very  easy.  These  seeds  falling  on  the  potato  in  favour- 
able circumstances  as  to  moisture,  &c.  cause*  the  disease,"  291.*  The 
application  of  common  salt  to  the  soil,  previous  to  planting,  is  suggested 
as  a  remedy.  Lime  and  charcoal  dust  sown  on  the  ground  after  plant- 
ing is  also  recommended. 

Another  correspondent  asserts,  "that  the  disease  is  an  old  one,  having 
been  long  known  in  Germany,  as  well  as  in  England,  and  that  there 
are  in  fact  two  distinct  distempers,  one  of  which  is  called  dry  rot,  and 
the  other  wet  rot;  the  dry  rot  often  appears  in  a  whitish  surface  ;  if 
the  wet  rot  sets  in,  it  is  black,  and  soft  worms  are  to  be  found  in  the 
putrifying  parts.  The  direct  origin  of  the  disease  is  a  fungus,  the 
remote  origin  is  something  else.  One  of  the  most  fertile  causes  of  thi* 
disease  is  the  habit  of  using  farm  yard  manure  in  a  state  of  fermentation. f 
Plants,  in  a  healthy  growing  state,  are  rarely  attacked  by  the  fungus; 
probably,  therefore,  some  change  takes  place  in  potatoes  before  the 
fungus  begins,"  page  307. 

*  If  it  be  true  that  an  infectious  disease  existi  amongst  the  potatoes  of  that  country,  winch 
contains  a  less  quantity  of  land  than  one  of  our  largest  States,  it  may  be  asked,  how  a  pro- 
portion could  be  shipped  here  in  an  eatable  and  pkv  table  condition,  after  reserving  a  sufficiency 
for  a  population  of  upwards  of  twenty  millions  of  inhabitants,  who  raise  them  for  their  cattle 
as  well  as  for  table  use. 

t  It  is  upwards  of  thirty  years  since  I  commenced  cultivating  potatoes,  which,  according  to 
the  seasons,  has  been  attended  with  variable  success.  In  1820  my  potatoes  were  so  bad  as 
to  be  scarcely  eatable,  I  however  planted  some  of  them  for  seed  the  year  following,  on  land 
situated  near  the  Bowery,  where  Third  street  now  is,  which  was  manured  with  livery  stable 
dung ;  and  the  pr.-iduct  was  the  best  I  ever  eat.  Last  season  several  of-my  acquaintance  raised 
their  early  and  late  crops  from  the  same  lot  of  seed,  with  different  results.  Those  planted  in 
April  produced  an  abundance  of  excellent  potatoes,  while  the  product  of  those  planted  in  June 
and  July  were  represented  as  diseased  and  scarcely  worth  digging.  The  difference  in  all  those 
cases  must  have  been  occasioned  by  the  weather  and  not  by  the  seed.  A  change  of  soil  how- 
ever, will  sometimes  cause  a  difference  in  the  quality  of  potatoes. 


APPENDIX  179 

"  That  the  disease  in  the  potato  arises  from  a  small  fly  which  lays 
its  eggs  in  the  vines  shortly  after  they  come  up,  which  turn  into  maggots 
and  pass  through  the  tube  of  the  vine  into  the  potato.  A  table  spoon- 
ful of  poudrette  to  each  plant  is  in  this  case  recommended  as  a  pre- 
ventive," page  324. 

Others  contend  that  as  every  plant  cultivated  in  the  same  soil  for  a 
long  period  is  liable  to  become  deteriorated,  a  new  generation  of  plants 
from  seed  of  a  healthy  crop  is  essential  to  preserve  their  pristine  excel- 
lence. A  gentleman  present,  however,  informed  the  Club,  that  his 
seedlings  were  found  in  a  decayed  state  the  same  as  others,"  page  290. 

As  it  is  not  my  intention  to  discourage  a  farther  investigation  of  this 
subject,  I  shall  not  pass  censure  upon  the  ideas  above  advanced,  but 
offer  a  few  remarks  founded  on  observation  and  the  study  of  nature, 
which,  I  trust,  will  prove  acceptable  to  the  public. 

I  have,  in  several  pages  of  "  the  Young  Gardener's  Assistant,"  re- 
minded my  readers  that  the  various  species  of  plants  which  are  cultivated 
in  our  gardens  and  fields,  require  each  their  peculiar  aliment,  they 
having  been  collected  from  all  the  diversified  climates  and  soils  in  our 
globe;  and  I  would  here  add,  that  it  is  a  matter  of  astonishment,  that 
so  large  a  proportion  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth  should  be  produced  in 
perfection  in  any  one  climate,  especially  in  unfavourable  weather,  to 
which  every  part  of  the  earth  is  at  times  liable. 

In  page  26  of  the  first  part,  I  have  furnished  a  classification  of  the 
most  important  vegetables  cultivated  in  our  gardens,  in  which  I  have 
shown  that  the  most  essential  aliment  to  natives  of  warm  climates  is 
heat,  and  of  temperate  climates  moisture,  and  that  the  three  elements 
HEAT,  AIR,  and  MOISTURE,  constitute  the  food  of  plants  in  general.  I 
have  also  recommended  my  readers  to  make  choice  of  the  seasons  best 
adapted  to  the  various  articles  they  may  wish  to  cultivate,  as  it  is  an 
indubitable  fact  that  the  element  essential  to  the  production  of  some 
vegetables  is  destructive  to  others,  which  in  reality  cannot  be  raised  at 
all  under  unpropitious  circumstances.  In  proof  of  the  above  assertion, 
I  would  remind  the  reader  that  various  kinds  of  fruit  are  deficient  in 
unfavourable  seasons.  Cherries  for  instance,  in  the  event  of  a  single 
week's  rain,  in  a  certain  stage  of  growth,  will  rot  on  the  trees;  and  it 
must  be  admitted  that  other  fruits  deteriorate,  or  lose  their  most  essential 
flavour  in  the  absence  of  suitable  aliment.  Why,  then,  I  would  ask, 
should  we  expect  potato  crops  to  be  uniformly  good  every  year. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  name  any  production  of  the  earth,  that  yields 
full  and  perfect  crops  annually ;  on  the  contrary,  it  is  well  known  that 


ISO  APPENDIX. 

famine  has  been  of  frequent  occurrence  in  many  populous  countries, 
through  short  or  defective  supplies  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 

It  is  conceded  by  the  generality  of  those  who  have  investigated  the 
subject  of  disease  in  potatoes,  that  the  tubers  soon  become  defective 
after  the  tops  cease  to  grow ;  and  common  observation  teacheth  that 
when  plants  of  a  succulent  nature  are  deprived  of  their  functions  or 
means  of  growing  luxuriantly,  they  continue  to  deteriorate  until  their 
juices  become  so  corrupt,  that  they  not  only  die,  but  contaminate  the 
earth  in  which  they  were  planted,  to  the  destruction  of  their  neighbour- 
ing inmates  of  the  garden  or  field;  and  even  potato  tubers,  after  being 
taken  from  the  earth,  will  injure  those  which  come  in  contact  with  them 
by  the  emission  of  their  corrupt  juices 

Mr.  Teschemacher,  in  a  communication  published  in  "the  New 
England  Fanner,"  observes,  «« That  the  potato  decays  previous  to  the 
appearance  of  worms,  and  that  worms  are  never  found  in  the  sound 
part  of  the  potato  either  eating  their  way  in,  or  depositing  their  eggs, 
nor  have  1  seen  the  worms  in  that  part  of  the  potato  in  which  the 
fungus  have  already  commenced  vegetating;  it  is  only  in  the  rotten 
part  that  the  worms  exist  after  the  fungus  has  caused  the  decay.  These 
worms  are  uniform,  and  appear  to  be  of  the  same  species  from  whatever 
cause  the  decay  may  arise." 

It  is  precisely  the  case  with  other  kinds  of  vegetables,  and  also  with 
fruit;  and  it  is  evident  that  all  those  worms,  insects,  and  reptiles  which 
prey  upon  the  vegetable  family,  are  more  partial  to  that  particular  kind 
of  vegetable  matter  which  first  generated  them,  than  to  any  other;  hence 
the  Peach  insects  feed  on  its  fruit  in  embryo,  as  well  as  in  a  state  of, 
and  even  beyond  maturity ;  the  Cabbage  worms  also  prey  on  plants  of 
the  same  genera  or  species  ;  and  when  those  enemies  of  the  vegetable 
family  cannot  obtain  the  parts  which  are  the  most  palatable  to  them, 
or  congenial  to  their  nature,  they  will  feed  upon  diseased  trees,  plants, 
or  other  matter,  which  contain  similar  juices,  or  nutriment,  in  prefer- 
ence to  any  other  description  of  food. 

It  is  generally  allowed  that  the  early  planted  potatoes  have  for  the 
last  two  years,  yielded  as  well  as  usual,  and  that  they  have  been  of 
very  superior  quality.  It  is  only  the  late  crops  which  are  complained 
of.  Now,  it  must  be  admitted  that  if  the  seed  potatoes  planted  in  June 
or  July,  whether  raised  here,  or  imported,  had  been  diseased,  they  would 
have  shown  it  at  the  time  of  their  being  cut  and  prepared  for  planting, 
as  it  is  notorious  that  the  discovery  of  defect  is  generally  made  at  the 
time  of  gathering  the  crop,  or  soon  after  they  are  heaped  together. 


APPENDIX.  181 

Ik 

it  must,  however,  be  conceded,  that  seed  potatoes  kept  until  July  i'or 
the  purpose  of  late  planting,  may  have  become  deteriorated,  because  those 
roots  being  biennial  cannot  be  expected  to  retain  their  health  and  vigour 
to  so  Idte  a  period;  which,  in  some  measure,  accounts  i'or  early  varieties 
being  more  seriously  affected  by  the  extreme  heat  than  the  late  keeping 
red-skinned  varieties,  which  will  retain  their  vegetative  properties  even 
in  dry  seasons,  so  as  to  produce  a  good  crop  if  not  retarded  by  being 
over  heated,  to  which  they  are  liable,  especially  if  placed  in  contact 
with  acrid  manure,  which  is  destructive  to  all  descriptions  of  plants  in 
hot  dry  weather.  New  land  without  manure  generally  produces  the 
best  crops  in  dry  seasons 

It  may  be  observed  farther,  that  when  the  leaves  or  vines  of  the 
potato  wither  prematurely  through  extreme  heat,  the  tubers  become  af- 
fected to  such  a  degree,  that  rain  late  in  the  season  hastens  their  de- 
struction instead  of  nurturing  them,  they  consequently  return  to  their 
native  element. 

From  the  above  considerations,  as  well  as  from  the  knowledge  I  have 
acquired  of  the  nature  of  plants  in  general,  I  have  come  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  the  alleged  disease  in  potatoes  was  not  occasioned  by  defective 
seed,  but  by  the  extreme  heat  of  the  Summer,  followed  by  the  excessive 
rain  in  Autumn.*  In  some  instances  the  defect  may  have  been  acceler- 
ated by  an  injudicious  use  of  acrid  manure,  and  in  others  from  their 
being  planted  in  low  undrained  ground.  It  often  happens  that  potatoes 
deteriorate  from  not  being  properly  dried  when  taken  from  the  ground, 
which  on  being  heaped  together,  become  heated,  and  consequently  rot. 

All  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

THOMAS  BRIDGEMAN. 
NEW- YORK,  February  1st,  1845 

*  As  this  review  was  elicited  by  the  discussions  relative  to  the  defect  in  potatoes  the  last 
two  years,  the  conclusion  has  special  reference  thereto.  It  must,  however,  be  acknowledged, 
that  the  extremes  of  HEAT,  COLD,  and  MOISTURE,  are  alike  detrimental  to  vegetation  in  all 
•easons  ;  and  that  hot  dry  summers  are  often  attended  with  results  as  fatal  to  vegetable 
productions  as  the  coldness  of  winter. 


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